pikpilot

What happens when you change the blower speed between each of its (5?) positions? If you get air only when set to maximum speed then the resistor has failed. If there is no air at all in any positions of the air switch then the blower motor has failed. Both component are behind the glove box.

I am not sure that is always true because the seatbelt warning comes up on my car if front passengers forget to belt up.

It would be useful to other readers if you could give us your engine code as not all engines have a concentric slave clutch cylinder You can find the engine code on a sticker in the spare wheel well. Thanks.

Just for completeness here is my method of getting the fuse position right. Sit sideways on the drivers seat and hold up a mirror that reflects the fuse location at the end of the end of the dash. The reflection in the mirror then looks like the diagram for a LHD car, as shown in handbook.

I am not sure there is a fuse. It may be fed directly from the centrol control module. So I looked at my 2011 build estate and it is exactly as in your photo - no FS18 I assume you wanted to check the fuse as a first step in finding out why it is not working. Rear wiper failure frequently comes up in this forum. Do a search to see what others have found. The most common failure on the hatch is caused by the fact that washer fluid is fed through the centre of the wiper shaft. Corrosion can damage the bearing or fluid leaks into the unit. On the estate, it more likely to be the motor itself as it has a dedicated fluid jet above the rear window. Mine (estate) failed due to sticking brushes in the brush holders. It is a design fault. As the spring pressure on the brush reduces as the brushes shorten with wear, the spring can longer press the brush against the comutator. I fixed mine by slightly sanding the sides of the brushes so they were able to move up and down the holders freely. Most people just change the wiper unit.

Common problem. Unless you are an electronics engineer with the things you need for changing small surface mount devices, remove the whole cluster unit and send or take it to a specialist cluster repair company. Some even fix it while you wait. You can find more info by searching this forum. Here is one cluster repair company: https://cartronix.co.uk/product-category/manufacturers/citroen/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwi_exBhA8EiwA_kU1MrB2QnSgLU9EfbbmFnx3bOOXXJvkhD1Tw_L_Qkkh8oxJHpcUx0MKsBoCR58QAvD_BwE

I did not comment on that problem but one situation is that the nylon gear or motor on the mixer flap has failed. The output air temperature consists of a mix of cold air from the A/C and hot from the heater matrix. If you know how (use google) then by pressing three A/C buttons (which vary by model) you can read out out on the Climatronic displays all the data from sensors etc. Another sign of a failed motor/stripped nylon gear on one of the air direction flaps. Failed flaps usually produce a fault code but not always. As an aside I recommend keeping the A/C on all year round as it will condense out the water vapour on humid days when it is raining (and clears window misting fast). It not like the old bang-bang systems so additional fuel consumption is tiny outside of hot days. Humidity control does not work near freezing conditions but humidy is low anyway when cold outside.

When did you last have the A/C checked? Lack of refrigerant creeps up on you without you noticing until a really hot day.

The aux coolant pump operates after you turn off the engine to run coolant around the engine for a short time to avoid hot spots. You need to read the stored fault codes to give us a clue for further diagnosis. It will help too if you tell us your engine code (on a sticker in the spare wheel well) and what steps you have taken so far.

The double pull is a safety measure on the INSIDE handle and is only active when the engine is running. Does your door open on one pull of the inside handle with the engine off? If not it suggests that your fitter may need to use VCDS or similar software to set it up correctly. Perhaps similar for the outside handle but I have never heard of that before.

Tyre Pressure Sensor !? The usual source of your problem is a sticking variable vane control disc in the turbo resulting in overboost when requesting high torque (such as going uphill at low or medium revs). You can temporally fix the symptom by stopping, turning off the engine then restarting. Long term replace the turbo. Short term remove the turbo and mechanically clean it or use oven cleaner spray to chemically clean it [often called the Mr Muscle treatment. Can be done in situ on some engines but there are risks to emission control parts]. Can I suggest you add your engine code (found on a sticker in the spare wheel well) and your location in your profile.

I agree it looks like a faulty battery but the same condition can appear with a good battery if there is a poor connection (including earth) anywhere between the battery and the starter. Look for corroded crimps and signs of black copper where the cable(s) is crimped and obviously, loose connrctions. When you attempted to start, did the starter turn over? If not then look at the small wire going to the starter motor.

I have now had all my injectors replaced. By an independent VAG specialist they were £332 each plus the cost of a stretch bolt, injector seal kit and a seal ring. By a Skoda garage the injectors alone were around £660 each. Add VAT to both prices, and of course labour unless you can do the work yourself including the recoding.

That is what happened on the Mk 1 octavia where the Elegance estate had a sunroof as standard. I don't know about the sunroof on the Mk 2 as it was an option, but I suspect it is very similar. On the Mk1 the drains were a pair of rubber tubes that ran down to the door openings- one for each front door. I found that debris (seeds, flowers etc) would run down the tubes to the end and collect there (the tube was flattenned a bit at the end). Poking with a meat skewer would clear the debris and I always followed with a good flush of water put into the tubes in the sunroof tray.

Check the main body earth connection behind the left hand side trim in the boot. The connections will corrode if water collects there. Main cause is usually not using a strong enough windscreen washer solution in the winter. The water freezes in the pipe and the ice pushes the pipe off the connector. When you try to wash the rear screen. the water comes out of the pipe and collects near the earth connections.

There should be a sticker in the spare wheel well that looks like a lot of three letter codes. The top part of that has a line called engine and gear box. The engine code is a 3 or 4 letter code such as the BMM sugested by Mike.

Have you updated the maps recently with non Skoda versions? See here:

I bought PHILIPS RacingVision GT200. They claim up to 200% more brightness. If the "more" is correct then that means 300% in total but I suspect that is a marketing hype. Note that brigher bulbs don't last as long. Don't buy LED bulbs as it has been announced in the UK that coming soon it will an MOT failure to use LEDs in lights not designed for them. I supect that your county will follow. This makes sense as I can easily tell which cars have retrofitted LEDs by the amount of scattered light sent towards me as a halo of light and the way they light up reflective signs that are out of the envelope of normal lights.. It is not common for dashboard light to go dim. They are usually normal or not working. I suspect yours is a dash panel fault such as dry solder joint.

Unlikely to be burnt as the dip switch gives only a small signal to the power electronics which actually switches on the lights. The dipped lights are poor compared with full beam on my CR 1.6 TDi. I too fitted better bulbs, which helps. Check the earthing as said above if the light colour is not white.

It sounds like that when the servo motor has reached the end stop and is hunting. As above, a reset will teach the servo where the end stop positions are. If left, the nylon geats can eventually strip.

In a Mk2 Octavia the the alarm is accessed by removing the liner to the wheel arch on the driver's side. However, as yours is a 2013 model it could be a changeover model with some differences. If you are sure it is not on a body panel at the rear of the wheel arch (after removing the liner) then ask for the alarm location of the later model in the Mk3 forum. If it has been removed you will find the cable and the fixing stud. There are also location photos in the alarm "sticky" thread at the top of this forum page.

Your conclusion about damp weather is probably correct from having had the same issues myself. During these damp days, always have the air condioning ON if you have climatronics. This will reduce the humidy level in the car and it will be automatically controlled. Also helps if you select a higher than normal cabin temperature.

Funny things like this have been known to happen with water ingress/damp conditions. Make sure you also use the air conditioner in conjunction with the heater on wet days. If you have climatronics then Auto will do the same thing. Another possibility is a faulty door unlock/lock switch - the one in the centre panel in front of the gear lever. It works the same way as your key even to the extent of being able to use it to roll all the windows up and down by holding the switch in lock for up and unlock for down.

What is the lowest battery voltage while attemping to start?

Don't risk it by driving, Could be a real fault such a blocked filter on the oil pick up in the sump. What engine code? - typically four letters and shown on the label in the spare wheel area. What mileage? Have you done an ecu fault code check again?