pikpilot

This was a problem on the Mk1 Octavia and the Mk 2 problem is probably of the same cause. The Mk1 was allowed to start at low cranking revs when cold but when hot, starting was inhibited until a higher cranking speed was achieved. So the question is why is the cranking speed too low? As said by others, the two major problems are a battery that no longer produces a high enough current, and poor connections introducing resistance into the circuit between battery and starter motor. As said by MicMac, try a second battery for a jump start. If it works then try a newer battery in the car. Also check for corrosion at all connections, especially at the earth strap on the engine.

The mk 2 has a failed light warning for brake light bulb failure. This was not the case with the mk1. My son had an audi A3 and the glow plug light lit soon after after he bought his three year old car. Not knowing that the glow plug light was used to indicate all failures he booked the car into an Audi garage for an expensive diagnostics - for a failed bulb!

As i know well, the garages were put under great pressure to apply the notorious dieselgate fix. You can check yourself whether not it has been applied by looking near the spare wheel for a small label containing 23R6.

I assume that 1.6GR is meant to be CR (Common Rail) [Engine code CAYC]. If yours had the dieselgate "fix" it seems that once one injector fails the others follow soon after. Faulty cruise control is more likely to be caused by a faulty cruise control switch or related wiring or clutch switch. You need to run a diagnostics check with history.

Also check the stone guards behind the disc brakes. The mountings rust away.

This should help: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17811/P1403/005123 Looks like you may need to replace the EGR.

You can download a pdf of your owners handbook using the link in the first topic of the "sticky" section, above the live posts.

It is normal and is explained in some handbooks. To avoid wear on the wiper blades, it will choose one of three possible park positions. Hence the twitch as it may move the blade to a higher or lower park position.

This fault was on my car when I bought it at 3 years old. I was told by an expert in canbus that if the radio works then there is nothing to worry about. Further searches suggested that is true as long as the two ends on the canbus are working without electrical noise being introduced into the wiring. The fault code disappeared many years later after the wiring was disturbed so I assume it was just a poor connection.

Depends on the size of the bike. Long legged people like myself wit a bigger bike also have to remove the front wheel too. And mine is an estate! As I have a towbar then this would be ideal as it can carry more weight/bikes than most: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144914432640?hash=item21bd92c280%3Ag%3Aa~oAAOSwLh9jz8sa&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4JpSNAEfPOY01av%2Bq829%2BEpGhqcKnvsGscqS4yXUCM97mPEfthWldYl5%2FgJbxKiyhjIqpbY4j9ykq1Que%2BarkAwhGcNqxTsiS3%2BOxsvIm8WHcCJkMsB4unSHCBBIOYgYrJOYlbVFw9M8RyrBzovAaHQlG%2BUUk0FYIBB%2FmJMk4e8is6Eh4vZ60xcU3IqnR6btJnHPHU1gQ6vcGki5il40EoTxVYy1arFjuZB7amQX2bXgWseeIl1B0m0%2FUae0HlfOOjxrANhuRZTRnlnqjmGGaqoL59eht8QYJkO8RuFdeSnj|tkp%3ABk9SR7aY_rG-YQ&LH_Auction=1

The common reasons for the car locking you out is that the microswitch in the driver's door that senses door open is not working or you have a wire(s) broken in the rubber trunking between the body and the door - the rubber thing you see when you open the door. Easy check is to see if the door open light comes up on the dash when you open the door.

Try removing the battery for half an hour to force a software reboot. One of my puddle lights in a mirror stopped working. The Skoda garage fixed it by enabling it again in the software. If you can find anyone near you who has VDS and can offer to help, get them to check that power mirrors and mirror lights are enabled. Have you had problems with door locking recently?

No, basically tracking means making sure the wheels are both pointing in the same direction. The tracking can be out be after changing the ball joints if you are one or more turns out on the ball joint thread before you locked it in place

But have you checked the tracking since you did the work on the ball joints?

Sounds like it is sending out a distress signal in morse code!

There are videos on Youtube showing how to replace just the switch unit and also the whole assembly. Plus there has been recent posts on similar topics. Search using google followed by briskoda and your query.

I have the same engine as the OP and the fuel pump in the tank can be heard running for about 5 to10 seconds on switching on the ignition. I wait until it has turned off before starting as otherwise it cranks for longer.

I use a good app on my phone to monitor the dpf. It connects via bluetooth or wifi (your choice) to a OBD2 reader in the diagnostic port. It is called VAG DPF. There is also a free "lite" version with less features. I thought this might be useful to you as it allows you to monitor the oil ash residue, soot mass both measured and calculated. Here is a photo of my last use just after a regeneration. The bar across the top of the data fields and the 25% number show that my DPF is 25% full [at 73,000 miles].

Usually caused by corrosion on the ground wire connection but unlikely here as other lights are working. Some reports of poor contact to the bulb in the holder. I suggest you take out the whole light assembly and bench test using a multimeter or continuity tester with the bulb in place. Many suggestions for your fault code on the net including: https://obd2pros.com/dtc-codes/p1505/ and: https://www.engine-codes.com/p1505.html Also maybe it needs a throttle body clean.

It is probably the switch at the end of the barrel. Easy to change if you follow the video. There is a thread on here with everything you need to know. Do a search over the last 12 months. Saves having a different key for the ignition and door unless you change the blades on the two remote keys.

You have done exceptionally well by not having to change the alarm unit in 17 years. Mine failed at about 9 years and other reports are less than this. Your symptoms agree with what others have reported. Some people have cut the alarm case open and replaced the Varta cells to repair the alarm. Some have found damage to the printed circuit board by cell leakage. I would recommend biting the bullet and getting a new (expensive) alarm unit. There are cheap second hand units on a well known auction site but my suspicion is they not much better than your current alarm.

It controls the temperature and humidity. Also decides on the best place on the air unless you manually press the air buttons. It is not a bang-bang system as you suggest but a constantly variable system. The air conditioning compressor is not an on or off unit and in fact is driven continuously with the displacement being varied by a swash plate. It is a very efficient system and I cannot see any difference in mpg between and auto and off except in exceptionally hot weather. I can't prove it but it appears to put the air into recirculation mode if you are following a car with a dirty exhaust.

Just as I was about to say Ken. Climatronics means that it also controls the humidity. It does it by cooling the incoming air and then re-heats it to the temperature you have set. The cooling of the air causes the moisture in the air to be removed as liquid water in the drain pipe rather than on your windows. Just put the unit on AUTO and set your required temperature. It may blow a little cold until the coolant temperature settles down but it will demist the windows quickly and long term remove moisture trapped in the fabric of the cabin.

Check the earth connection (brown wire) where it connects to an earth stud in the boot on the passenger side. It gets corroded and makes poor connection if water enters the boot - usually because the washer solution is too weak in winter allowing it freeze and causing the water pipe in the boot to pop off at the pipe connector. Clean up all the connections at the body earth stud. The lights are connected there too.

When self-checking/resetting. you will just notice the flaps cycling one by one and other odd things to do with the Climatronic unit such as fan speed cycling - also depends on your variant. If all your faults have cleared then it was probably the end positions of one or more flap servos needed resetting. Lost end positions could be caused by a nylon gear slipping by a tooth and now recalibrated by your actions. For the running problem I don't recognise the fault code as a VAG code. I use Carista too for diagnostics. Are you using the Carista software and set it for your particular car with CAYC engine or just using the Carista plug-in with 3rd party software? Your picture does not look like my data from Carista.