travs

New tax rates come in from 1 April. So ours is just before the change. Great when rising, not so great when expecting it to plummet. Yes - Black Magic paint. Oh and the droppy tow bar thing. Oh and Canton. Unless that was standard on L&K. Fair enough. Just show’s how much of a hit they took in 6 months.

If you’re on mobile you might not see my sig. 2021 Suoerb 280 L&K Hatchback. Not sure what were considered options. Maybe sunroof? Rear wiper was on option but was free. I can imagine it was approaching but would be surprised if it was over that level back then!

I've nearly just spat out my coffee at the VED quote for 1st March which is £407.50 - this means it had a list price of over £40k. We bought it at 6 months old, for £32,995 in Sept 2021 with 4,900 miles on the clock. My questions are: Did Carr's Exeter really throwaway £7k in 6 months depreciation?!? Is there any way I can check what the list price was at the time of the car? As in, will it be recorded somewhere I can email the dealer or Skoda HQ and they can look up what it would have been originally listed at? Cheers, Outraged of London /s

It is iPhone. There might be turn signals that I haven’t looked for or seen in the various options for sure. Might have to have a play. Which view is that Dave?

Just be aware, claying the car is damaging to the paint - it pulls out contaminants that chemicals don't remove, but it will introduce marring/swirlmarks into the paint. Polishing gets rid of these but you are limited with hand polishing, and many hand polishing products like SRP (Autoglym Super Resin Polish) does abrade some clearcoat, but it also has fillers and gloss enhancers that give a look of polished paint without the actual result. You'll only get a perfect look with a machine and proper polishing compound that removes the damaged layer; but its about not letting the perfect be the enemy of the good. Go with what you want whilst being informed. Waxes are a protective layer - their primary objective is to reduce UV damage and chemical attack from birdbombs, waterspot etching, sap/bug-guts and road chemicals. There are better protection products out there (Ceramics coatings being the ultimate chemical if not going down the PPF route) but Fusso is generally thought to be pretty much the best - just a bit of a pain to work with than others.

I'll say the same thing as I always do - research on IDA and PVD websites for someone near you; at least there is an amount of training/validation given there is a variety of skills/abilities in an unregulated industry. PVD (Professional Detailers and Valeters) requires detailers to: Get the majority of their income from Detailing Have been in business at least 12 months sufficient insurance for PL insurance (including vehicle under charge) Pass an entry test to prove capability. I was IDA (International Detailing Association) certified and validated which needs to be done by an IDA-trainer. Not quite so stringent on some of the business aspects. But this sort of training gives people the understanding of what they're doing and why etc. It sets a standard baseline.

Yep they get good ratings for their APC (Surfex HD) and Touchless snowfoam too. Every company has their better and worse performing products though - even I think Chemical Guys who are generally considered the whipping boy of the detailing product world.

Fair enough - I don’t think we rely on that sort of thing in UK. There isn’t a relevant governing body that would certificate, just down to the manufacturer and owner to research as far as I know. Good you have that reliance 👍🏼

I didn’t advise a spacer with a lower offset - jus to be conscious of fit. What does TUV provide aside from build quality?

If you haven’t got them clear powdered, be careful when you clean them not to use any aggressive wheel cleaners as you can get chemical burn (will look like what water splash marks). If you have, go nuts!

I don’t get anything on facelift/MIB3 with digital display. Only thing that I can get is the internal satnav which will put the blue line on the map on the digital dash.

Another thing to be conscious of - the ET on those means they will sit out 20mm more than standard. The standard wheels on the Superb definitely need more poke (sitting out from the car) but those 20x9 would be the same as sticking on 21mm spacers which would be very noticeable and possibly cause rubbing on the wheel arch edge if you have any lowered suspension. I’m running 12mm spacers all round but my new summer wheels will be 11.5mm lower offset so I can remove the spacers an have the same outside profile; it’s subtle but a much better look. You’ve got a balancing act with the additional width - not going out too far that it looks like a tractor, but not sacrificing poke and end up getting rubbing on a wheel arch liner etc.

Yep width of the tire sits differently depending on the width of the wheel. You can probably fit a 235 on a 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9 and will look very different in all of them. Optimal tyre pressures will vary too as I’m sure extreme euro-stretched tyres need higher pressures to make sure they stay on the rim. Looking through those options my personal preference is to go full dish; I’m not convinced by the semi-dish effect of the other ones but that’s just my viewpoint - you go with what you want. Looking at JRRS’ car, 245 on an 8.5 is basically the same ratio as 235 on an 8 so that’ll give you that neutral straight up side wall. Sticking the 245 on the 9” would be a little stretched. But it’s the second number that determines the height of the sidewall (you mentioned huge sidewall). Couple of pics to demonstrate the sidewall look.

Firstly - forget about comfort. You're sacrificing that for exterior aesthetics. The standard Superb 19s are 19x8 and that runs a 235 as standard. You can switch to 245 but I did and they look bulgey and I don't like the aesthetic. Aftermarket 8.5 wide usually get mated to a 245 so 235 on a 9" wide is going to look very stretched euro I would imagine. Which means if you want any rim protection, that needs to be built into the carcass than on size of tyre alone. It could work. McLaren 19x8 came with 225 as standard and the 20x10" rear came with 285. Slimmer fit than the Skoda. Personally I'd say 245 on a 9" would look slim. If they're square setup (all wheels same size) then go to Will They Fit, put in the standard sizes and look at how any changes you would consider would change the poke/ride height/speedo accuracy. Standard is 19x8, ET44, 235/40 tyre.

What made you switch to B6 @Awesam ?

In summary - they don't 'need' changing just because of time despite very very low mileage, but if you're not going to do it, don't do it on the basis of saving money. Might be worth pulling one to look at it and see if lots of short journeys running rich has caused any issues but its not likely.

This sort of thing - check out the pics.

Coolant - see if your header tank says Mit Silikat on it - at which point, get a replacement and change the coolant. Ootohere used to have pics uploaded with all the official scheduling. I’ll try and find one…

Just continuing the theme of slightly misremembering something for you to correct 🤭

Don’t think it’s speed-dependant. @JR RS has done it. Check out his project thread. Not sure if it was just Superb specific but I’ll bet my wisdom tooth they mostly if not all switch between. It was a thing to switch to a Kodiaq one too I think

E-marked LED bulbs plug and play to Xenon clusters. UK road legal according to all the MOT regs and articles I can find. Bulbs

Replacement xenon bulbs in a xenon headlight cluster will be fine because the cluster has the associated lens and levelling adjustment. Xenon bulbs retrofitted to a halogen cluster is a no-no purely because of the lack of the required tech. Either way, it was on here recently that an MOT tech is not allowed to remove parts on the vehicle and therefore they cannot remove the rear cover to look at the bulb. They shouldn’t need to to see in a halogen cluster as it’s obvious looking from the front. LED bulbs were previously not E-marked and therefore not legal but there is a post on here with a link to an e-marked unit so perfectly legal in UK.

Looking back through the thread it looks like the proof will be that no-one has touched the parts since leaving the factory. Nothing to say it isn’t a case but ApertureS definitely had insider knowledge so if the message at the time was that after-factory work had been carried out, then that’s what was being said at the time (be it accurate or a corporate fob off)

Only the 280bhp has 340mm vented fronts and 310mm vented rears. All the others have 312mm vented fronts and solid 300mm rears. If you have Electronic parking brake you need something like OBD11 or VCDS to put the rears into service mode and then you push the caliper piston back, don’t wind it. Winding can mess up the mechanism and the caliper then needs a full strip down to reset it. Not guaranteed but def official advice on that one. Only when completely finished do you then take out of service mode before applying handbrake (although please check all that bit in case I’ve misremembered etc).

Good work, and good tip. Shows just how it gets everywhere!