KeithCheetham

Audi - that is a Skoda in a party frock.

One of the 1st things I have always done when upgrading from the Classic - Elegance - Greenline is transfer the heavy gauge cable I made up with ring type connectors on the end that connect the earth lead connection on the inner wing to the starter motor mounting bolts, This may be why I have never had issues with very tired batteries that have always started the cars. Wonder how many battery salesmen we have on here.

What equipment are you using that is reading this code, and what is the accompanying text as I would expect this text to identify location.

You need to get it scanned with a reader suitable for reading all the VAG consoles. Have you checked the fluid level in the reservoir under the battery.

1.4 TDI should start without glowplugs working. "Just clicks" - does this mean that the engine is not turning over on the starter? If it isn't turning over, are the lights on the dash lighting properly, and do they dim when the key is turned to the starter position? Did you disconnect the battery when doing the glowplugs - i.e. distrurbed the battery terminals? What happens to the headlights if you have them on and turn the key to the starter position.

Any chance of it being a damaged cable. Wonder if putting the faulty injector back in cylinder 2 would allow it to run correctly again if this proved to be a failing cable that made a good contact again. Have you tried disconnecting the cable, moving it about and re-connecting and trying.

Skoda dealer for code, Skoda to supply/programme a key, local independent locksmith to supply/programme or buy something such as the following to retrieve the skc. I have used this tool on 3 different clusters in my Mk2 (original in car and 2 second hand units to fit in that car). Never done keys on a Mk.1 but believe the following applies, assuming the Immobiliser 3 applicable. You can buy keys cut to a photo, which I did when I had a Mk1 but this was never coded as I only intended to use as a get into car if remote locked in boot or similar. Worth then checking if you can buy a virgin RF chip and code it in. Ross-Tech: VAG-COM: Immobilizer 3 Key Matching For Vag Pin Code Reader Auto Key Programmer Obd2 For Key Login Car Diagnostic Tools Code Reader Program Remote And Transponders - Diagnostic Tools - AliExpress Feedback from a buyer - "A little bit expensive just for showing something essy to find. On the VAG autos this code can be finded is on the back on the cluster case (tacho). It worth's if you don't want to dismantel the place where is the tacho/cluster gauge." - do not believe that is correct, anyone know if correct.

What instructions are you following for matching the remote (not the primary issue here) - the following may assist. Note that at the bottom it suggests that old remotes may require deleting. I have only done remote matching on a Mk2 Fabia due to swapping the instrument cluster out, but did work using a Ross Tech instruction. Ross-Tech: VAG-COM: Remote Control Matching Info

Just edited my post, noticed you had mentioned starting. Assume you are trying to just programme the remote as key is already matched to the immobiliser if the car starts.

If the remote has never worked it may not be the one for the car so I would expect that to be an issue requiring matching through VCDS or similar - for the time being do not try to do anything about that until you sort the door lock/key/alarm issue. If you can do it, I would suggest editing title to something like "Alarm activated when using key in door" as pairing the key is not the important issue, or edit this post to reflect issue with remote only, removing key/door/alarm issue and starting a seperate post. This may get you better/specific answers.

Check power steering fluid level. Reservoir is under battery so level does not get checked regularly. A few days should not result in a battery needing charging and 11.6V over a time suggests a constant discharge, or defective new battery. Maybe try disconnecting battery over those few days if practical. Have you had it scanned with a VAG compatible system. The VRS specialists will give you deeper checks and more advise.

Hope the problem is just this remote feature. The more info in the title, the easier it is for anyone searching for similar problems in the future. Something such as "Remote only opens drivers door" would be my recommendation as a typical title in this case. There are various other features to be aware of with the remote that MAY be programmed into the car such as auto re-locking after 30 seconds if ignition not switched on meaning that you could get in, remember something inside house that you forgot, leave key in centre console, shutting door which could then result in re-locking car with key inside. Unsure if opening door overides this but there can be issues with wires between door and body breaking so car is un-aware door has been opened.

Press open button on remote twice - safety feature to open drivers door only may be enabled. Title should be more descriptive, not just year and model.

As a close out to this post, I would like to thank Pete, who I consider one of the main "go too" people for electrical issues on here, for the time he has put into this issue. When the cluster was received from him I re-fitted this and, as he has stated, the fuel level and outside temperature gauges now worked as expected, but the car would only start and run for approx 2/3 seconds which is generally a sign of an immobiliser issue. This was accompanied by a clicking/buzzing sound coming from the console, almost like a relay going in/out rapidly. This had not occurred when the car was functioning with the failed fuel/outside temp functions, so I can only assume that this "noise" source may have been the cause of the "fused" track that Pete repaired - as he has stated this is not ideal/recommended but was something I agreed to him doing - with the replacement bypass wire having a greater resistance to failing. As I am wary of this causing additional items/failures I will not want to try re-coding the immobiliser and keys so will carry on with my 133K mile cluster that I matched to the ECU/keys. Once again, thanks to Pete for his investigation, and I hope this has added/assisted in his knowledge base of these cars electrical circuits.

About 2 years ago I had an issue with my 58 plate 1.4TDI Greenline where the bar type fuel level gauge was not indicating a level, and the outside temperature gauge was not reading. The trip computer did not indicate a range, even though the other functions for MPG, Average MPG, Distance travelled etc continued to work. Eventually I bought a 2nd hand (£12.74) console and used VAG Key to extract the pin codes from the old and new consoles. This allowed me to fit the new/original 133K vs 109K mile console and code in the immobiliser and match the keys. This gave me a fully functioning console. Our electrics wizard @Breezy_Pete offered to have a look at the console for possible issues, and will now do a follow up in this post with his findings.

Get it scanned with VAG specific OBD2 programme, or buy a 2nd hand cluster and swap out. Car may not start - unsure on Mk1 if immobiliser is in ECU or cluster - but would prove if issues are cluster based or somewhere else. This could be a sub £20 option. On my Mk 2 I have had an issue where fuel gauge and outside temp gauge stopped working, plugging a 2nd hand cluster in, that I have since had to code to the ECU and keys, and proved it was a cluster issue with replacement working correctly rather than chasing wires down.

If Wino/Nige8021method of checking in connector pins is fruitless or beyond your skillset, another method, depending on how cost effective you consider it, may be to look on Ebay and buy a cluster with a matching part number which appear to be available for around £20. This will plug in but not allow the car to start without the immobiliser being matched to the ECU and key, but would allow the ignition and lights to be turned on proving if the issue is in the cluster or external to it. You may be able to find a local VAG independant who could code a replacement cluster but the mileage would be as the replacement cluster as I understand that the mileage cannot be corrected. As you mentioned LHD and inspection, not MOT, I am unsure what "local" support is available. It may be worth completing location, model and year in your profile car details. I believe that the models based on your 2009 may have different clusters with temp gauge and fuel level as needle type on upper level models. It will be interest to see a main dealer quote for a cluster and fitting/coding which may exceed car value.

To swap the ECU I think you would need the 4 digit code off the existing and "new" ECU to allow immobilizer matching (VAG Key Login can do this by reading the existing via the OBD2, and swapping the clusters out which can then be read even though it will not start, is what I have personally used but is not cheap) - Ross Tech site gives recoding instructions for the Immobiliser III and IV via VagCom - I am unsure which versions is on the Mk1 ECU. Dependant on your skill level with computers, I would suggest requesting a copy of a standard map either on here or through the net, downloading a copy of your own map (MPPS personally used) allowing you to then load both up through the free software programme VAG EDC15P which can give a list of differences in the 2. This would allow editing of the existing map down to a std if diffeences are found - remembering to keep safe a copy of the original map off your car. VAG EDC15P also has the facility to run a "curve" of the loaded maps which in my case reflected the original and bought Blacksmoke - supplier not resulting tailpipe output - maps. There is the option of trying the immobilizer off mapping or there are plug ins for the OBD also but unsure how robust these are. Extreme care and confidence is required using any methods that interact with the ECU map, as you could end up with a car that will not start. Is there a specific reason for the head swap, as this does not appear to be detailed in the post.

A link to that supplier may assist other with injector issues on the 1.6 TDI locating replacements assuming they are of a good quality - there has been another thread recently where injector failure appeared to be an issue, unfortunately in that instance someone recoded the injectors probably badly. For reference/cost comparison there is a UK company that can supply new/exchange injectors as your identified Ebay quoted price appears very low in comparison. Skoda Fabia Diesel Fuel Injectors (pfjones.co.uk)

I totally agree, buying the equipment to extract the codes off the original/new cluster, plus the cost of VCDS unless you already have a copy do not make this route economical unless you are able to locate someone with the equipment to carry out the swap. In my case, there was an issue with the outside temperature and fuel level gauge (bar graph type on mine, as a Greenline which has the Level 2 trim, not a dial) making the issue more confusing/complicated.

You have not stated year - facelift or pre-facelift - It is possible, but needs VCDS to code immobiliser in or it won't accept code in key for immobilizer, and configuration the cluster may be required to suit car build. I have just done this on my 58 plate but you cannot change mileage as far as i know. You also need to retrieve the 4 digit code from the old and new cluster which needs another OBD reader. Dependant on year replacement used clusters can be cheap, I paid £12. Depending on immobilizer fitter:- Immobilizer IV Immobilizer Swapping (Instrument Cluster) - Ross-Tech Wiki

Bit of old data that may assist.

Given the number of cars that appear to be on the market with "hidden" damage history, some major - see Dodgy Cars on FB who even have a "Golf Sunday feature" where every single week a Golf is featured being sold with undisclosed history - I would recommend paying for a history check with someone like VCheck or Car Vertical which for sub £10 may find any history where a car has been through an accident damage auction. An HPI check, which the dealers generally rely, on will not always give this information, while the VCheck and Car Vertical even show pictures of damage if applicable from auctions, and these damaged cars are appearing even on main dealer and large group forecourts. (4) Facebook If you click on the "see more" you will see the salvage photos in Source Link as a typical.

Could you supply a timeline starting with when you bought the car, how did it run then, how long did you own the car before the issue started, when the above items of maintenance were carried out especially relative to each other, who fitted the straight through and FMIC (unsure why this would be done on a standard engine). Are you sure it has not been mapped especially as with the old EDC15 ECU a cheap generic Ebay or similar "tuned" map can be uploaded at home. Strange that the issue started before the clutch and a new DMF were fitted, but the issue has developed after this. Has it been scanned with VCDS or another VW specific scanner. It is possible with EDC15P programme to read a downloaded map and run a power curve to identify expected power.

This OBD2/Torque method identified a faulty thermostat issue on my Greenline which also just has just the blue light to indicate coolant below about 48 deg. Never heard of the revs/handbrake issue you are seeing so will be interesting to see if anyone else can supply feedback on this.