chimaera

Have a read here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/445067-superb-2-wheel-and-tyre-information/

My car has a DSG and I had the flywheel replaced early this year. DMF replacement was around €800 parts and labour, and I spent another €200 odd to have the rear main oil seal replaced while everything was out. A word of caution on leaving the clutch alone on manual cars - some clutches used on the 2.0 TDI have had major issues with fingers breaking off the pressure plate and causing damage inside the bell housing. In the worst cases they have worn through the gearbox casing and caused it to lose all its oil.

This thread has all the info you need on wheels for Superb 2:

There isn't a huge amount of overhead in the 170 engine, the most you might get is 200 bhp if it's mapped on a rolling road.

Probably failed thermostat. Did you check the oil temperature on the MFD?

If the car has start-stop, you'll need to have fitted an AGM battery and coded it, though if you're getting no power at all that's probably not the issue. Like others have said, start by checking that it's correctly fitted and that it's sufficiently charged.

It sounds like you closed a 1 cm horizontal gap by adding washers to allow the bolts to go through at an angle, as well as bending the rail. If you did, the joint will have lost most of its strength and is liable to break free in a collision. The only safe way to do this would be to have adapter plates made up that would allow you to mount the seats rails to the car without forcing or bending anything.

So you've bodged a safety critical feature. Well done. I hope you've informed your insurance company about this modification.

Steering only locks after the key is removed. It can also be really difficult to turn the key if there's a lot of pressure on the steering lock, so check what it's like when you turn the wheel away from the lock. Ignition lock cylinder can be replaced without replacing the housing.

Have you tried spraying some WD40 into the barrel?

Get the flat one checked first - corrosion on the rim can cause a tyre to leak even though it's in good condition.

I've summarised a bunch of information about the rear setup in the thread below which should answer some of your questions. Front end is simpler in terms of the array of options. If you're doing shocks, it's a good idea to do springs too. Even new parts all around are not mad money, especially if you avoid dealer parts. Plenty of good aftermarket OEM options out there.

That towbar may not be strong enough to handle the Superb's towing capacity, and it's also probably not going to be a great fit. It's held in place on the Superb by 4 bolts that screw in from the sides through the wall of the channels the towbar is inserted into. The flanges of the towbar need to be snug to the outside of those channels or it won't be held properly when the bolts are tightened.

Enable oil temperature display in the MFD, it well tell you the temperature of the engine more reliably than the temp gauge. 82-85 is normal under light loads, it'll probably hit 95 on a motorway cruise.

Wow, that's stupid!

The battery only powers the remote unlock feature. Unlocking the door with the key should not set off the alarm. If it did you may have a fault somewhere in the system.

Start with fuses and relays. If they check out ok move on to wiring. A diagnostic fault scan might also help.

What engine do you have?

I had the DMF replaced in my CR170 DSG replaced earlier this year by my trusted independent for €1000 parts and labour, including replacement of the crankshaft oil seal. Time for you to shop around.

Going by what you describe, it's likely to be both. That said, I'd have a good look at the wiring around there first. Three sensors in the same area with faults or spurious readings might be a damaged cable somewhere.

As far as I know they have a bracket to bring them up level with the raised floor. They also have an extra bit at the side to close off the space around the storage compartments at the side. I did a DIY job but haven't raised the rails yet.

I've had no issues with MAD springs and auto-levelling on the headlights. Check the condition of both ride height sensors, including cycling them while monitoring the detected position in Measuring Blocks on VCDS. If this checks out, you may need to adjust the mechanical aim of the headlights. The MAD springs will affect the rear ride height (bringing it back to where it should be) and if the headlights were last adjusted on a sagging rear end, they'll be pointing down now.

You have to unlock the fuse box. The pink part at the back slides down and allows the terminals to be inserted.

On facelift cars the front bumper has to come off to change headlight bulbs.