Breezy_Pete

@JohnBS ? I would expect the answer is erWin Skoda, 1 hour access costs 7 Euro plus tax, last time I used it. Circuits pdfs are under individual vehicle info tab, repair info option. Download button appears when money paid.

Leakage from evaporator itself or the o-rings which seal it to the expansion valve are surely the most common evaporator problems.

If you are feeling brave, you can drill a hole in the inside of door metalwork, to gain tool access to a Torx screw on the lock. When turned in the appropriate direction this should unlock it: 9N3 doorlocks | UK Volkswagen Forum, see John's post on Feb 14th.

A healthy result is maybe 15mA in full sleep. If you have the deadlock LED flashing on driver's door, expect it to jump around by a few mA in sync with flashing.

Only if there is a microswitch there J.R., which isn't there on Fabias without alarms, I believe, like ours.

The first one, suffix C suits standard and sports bumpers, whatever they are. Suffix D one suits 'comfort bumpers', whatever they are! If you're lucky, you may see one of the PR codes 2JB, 2JD, 2JK or 2JX on the build options sticker in the boot. Only the last of those requires the suffix D part.

Is there a microswitch on the bonnet catch? Probably only there if the car has an alarm factory fitted.

Well you could take the lower dash trim panel out yourself and inspect the connection. You're probably better off doing that part anyway, an autospark may not know how. The guide for Evaporator temperature sensor replacement in the Fabia Guides section covers this panel's removal quite nicely. Probably something on Hatboy Harvey's YouTube channel too.

It's all about making sure everything has gone to sleep before taking the measurements and making sure no circuits are woken up by the process of measuring. So, kidding the car that everything is closed and locked for at least 30 mins, whilst still having access to where you're measuring, and having the equipment already in circuit so nothing wakes stuff up again.

The wire coming off pin 16 (correction from 10 previously, please ignore the ringed 10 on the image below) on connector XS6 of Onboard supply control unit splits off to all three nearside indicators, so either a bad connection here or the chip that supplies it on the circuit board inside it is dying.

Almost certainly a strip fuse that's cracked then I think. No.4 in your wife's car I expect.

Did the A/C work properly again between you getting the car back from initial repair and the engine coolant problem rearing its head? The evaporator and heater matrix would both have to be disconnected to replace the evaporator, I think, but they're entirely independent devices with respect to fluids and plumbing/hoses. Their story doesn't really add up, but given the number of re-installation errors, you probably wouldn't want to hear the full story!

Good shout!

Try 30 minutes, and how are you measuring the current?

His car may have a fault! Wait for others to look at theirs and see what they see. Must be a mk2 made before March 2010 to be relevant, I think

If you send me your VIN by private message, I can find the exact date your car was built, and tell you what fuse 22 covers with reference to wiring diagrams accordingly.

I don't think it's necessarily a fault, on our Mk1 and my 9N Polo all that info is displayed 24/7/365. LCD displays take miniscule amounts of current, only really taking any at all when the digits change, most of which aren't doing when the car is parked.

If it was a Fabia, I'd say you should check the relevant strip fuse in the fuseholder on the battery. That's nearly always cracked when such faults show on Fabias, a nice cheap and easy fix. Photograph said fuseholder (if there is one on a mk1 Octavia) if unsure of what to look at/for.

I very much doubt the caster changed at any point during this 'knock of a kerb'. Far more likely that your alignment operator didn't use the right model data, or that the Skoda data itself is incorrect versus reality. The angular difference between how yours is and the spec range is tiny, around a quarter of one degree of angle outside spec. In my head there's no way that could transform the steering feel. And unless your kerb impact was frontal/symmetrical/both front wheels at once, no way it could affect both sides. Doesn't need to be Skoda, any garage can look for such things for you, probably in minutes on a ramp.

So unlikely that I can't bring myself to try to look it up, sorry. You would need the engine code of each specific engine as a starting point.

You could probably find the relevant document yourself on erWin Skoda, but it would cost you some money to gain access for an hour. There are a selection of the official workshop information pdfs in the guides section, but not the relevant one, I think which would be called something like 'Kamiq - Chassis' and have a table something like this (example of table for mk1 Fabia NOT the correct info for your car):

I doubt it. Ask your friendly local Skoda dealer if they can look up the specification for your car's caster angle. Don't expect much co-operation, but you just never know..

Not sure on physical location, probably close to where one of the driveshafts emerges. Circuit diagrams say it is wired with a yellow and a white wire from the automatic gearbox control unit J217. It is an automatic transmission car, right?

With the symmetry of the caster numbers, and the reported one-sided impact, it seems most likely to me that their 'normal range' caster figures are simply not correct for your car. Unfortunately, I don't have reference material to look confirm or reject this idea. The loose/baggy steering feel seems more likely due to a damaged suspension bush, or bent component, than a caster problem.

This is what happens with my TB at ignition on, if I just leave it without turning the key further to crank. 20230618_152810.mp4