Breezy_Pete

Not sure diesels have them?

Dunno; what's a power probe and can it measure dc voltage? I have this vague recollection that I've seen mention of a 'repair loom' for this section of cabling (which suggests a frequent failure of sone part thereof). If you message me your VIN I can research whether it correlates with your car's age etc.

Stabbing through insulation of each wire with a needle or pin just above the cable entry grommets would be a valid alternative to possibly damaging the seals. Easily taped over subsequently. Make sure inserted items don't short to one another though!

If Andy would like to message me with his VIN I can look up hub part number for his car and price.

Unloaded voltage tells you nothing except that neither conductor is totally broken.

You could also confirm/deny whether the VCDS reported term 30 voltage at the pump is factual by measuring between the two at the pump connector, back-probing while active as above. Makes sense to do that before the above volt-drop tests, in hindsight.

The power wiring to the pump is the obvious problem here, not just the cleanliness of the connections. Not sure how easily you could back-probe the connections at the pump while plugged in and active through/past the rubber seals but that's what I would suggest. With multimeter on dc volts setting, go looking for that missing voltage by measuring along the length of the two big cables. Positive red connection at pump to each/both ends of the strip fuse it comes from, then from brown earth connection at pump to battery negative. Ideally with pump loaded at least somewhat by an assistant wiggling the steering wheel gently from side to side, engine running.

Message me your vin and I could look up part number and price new if still available.

Well, a control unit about the size of two normal relays, with pins that fit in those adjacent relay sockets.

Phone them with your VIN to hand and they'll be able to check better on the screen they have. Better info than on the website.

EGR cooler may be another possibility. Bypass it by joining the hoses that go to it, to see if anything changes?

I woke up wondering the same, it could be a much cheaper and easier repair if it were just the hub assembly, rather than the beam. Looking at the pictures in this ebay listing here, particularly the second to last one, makes me think that the bearing would surely be audibly and functionally destroyed ahead of that structure getting bent? Thoughts @skomaz, @J.R., @bentrearhubassemblyexpert?

I took a quick look at both our Polo and Fabia an hour or two ago, both of which are in spec as far as I know, for their respective rear ends. The toe in is quite visible even at a casual glance, so nearly 2 degrees of toe out on Andy's car's nearside rear must stick out like a sore thumb, I'd think?

Thanks but already resolved I think. 🙂

That's the same price with VAT added. I took out a subscription to partslink24 recently. Very handy.

I don't think I have the relevant erWin documents for this model. The wonderfully helpful fella that is @varooom may have?

See if this helps. Why do you not believe the rear beam has a problem (e.g. being bent)? Have you inspected thoroughly from underneath yourself? Probably needs to be on an overhead ramp/lift to see clearly.

Hit and miss with them unfortunately. I'm considering setting up an automotive company for myself and getting an account there as a fringe benefit!

I would think you could probably see the left (nearside) rear's non-straightness (toe problem) by eye, relative to the front-to-back centreline of car?

Yep, should get one at that price from any dealer or maybe a little less at a cooperative TPS.

If you like I can copy and annotate the relevant bits of that printout to improve its clarity?

Toe is miles out on left too, looks like something wrong at left end of beam.

Depends what is being referred to by 'axle', I'm assuming rear beam, but not sure if @AndyM20's car has this or independent rear suspension?

Axle could be bent in front-to-rear plane, I guess causing toe alignment issues which might be involved.

If the axle is indeed bent then you will have to change it. Skoda would only fit new genuine. Other garages may be able to get good secondhand or possibly even aftermarket versions which would both be much cheaper, and labour rates almost certainly less too.