Breezy_Pete

You've posted in the mk1 Fabia section, is that deliberate? If so, what year is the Fabia, please?

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, then reconnecting?

I think he probably meant USB lead, as shown alongside it in the Gendan pic?

Skoda Workshop Manuals > Fabia Mk2 > Body > Body Work > Front door, central locking > Front door > Removing and installing the door (workshop-manuals.com) If you try this, make sure you have an assistant available, doors are heavy, and aligning during refitting is much easier if someone else has the weight.

I've not had hands on/in situ experience of repair on a mk2, but on a mk1 it's surprisingly easy to take the whole door off, improving access enormously. I think from what I've read, you can get the loom out via door car off, plus removing the loudspeaker? Others with hands-on experience will be able to better advise.

I misread your initial post and thought the motor was working one way (but not the other). It uses the same two wires for each direction, just by swapping the polarity, so I thought they must be OK. But re-reading, I see that the only time the driver's door is locking or unlocking is when the key is doing it directly, mechanically. Not 100% sure but that may be the only broken wire, and things should work as intended once repaired. Fingers crossed.

There might be more than one bust wire, I guess. Photos would help, if you can get that connector latch open for better view/access (be brave).

Are you sure it isn't pin 2? Re-reading your symptoms, the wire that's not working is one of the motor power wires which is purple/yellow, and comes from/goes to pin 2 of the connector.

That'll be the one. The wiring diagrams are sometimes confusing with wire colours on LHD vs RHD mirrored things like door looms. Pin number says it's the right wire.

I think that rules out a problem with the lock module, and points towards the wire I mentioned above, the thin green/yellow one between a-pillar connector and door. Goes to pin 3 of the a-pillar connector. This is how the numbering goes, looking at the mating face of the door loom plug:

The signal from the lock unit which says "key is turned" goes via the electric window motor module. What I've suggested is a way to establish if that signal is actually getting out of the lock module as far as the window motor module. If it does cause the window to open, turn the key the other way and check that it also closes. This isn't the same signal as I was referring to in my second post, that one goes directly to the central convenience module. Yep. Photograph any broken wires for identification purposes, please. Very common fault on mk2 Fabia.

There's a thin green/yellow wire in the bundle that goes between door and A-pillar that conveys the lock's status to the central convenience unit; I wonder if that's broken? Have you done any inspection of these wires?

The receiver for the key fob signal is central, in the central convenience control unit behind the dash, the locks are dumb electromechanical devices - just a motor and a few microswitches. Does the car have electric windows? If so, can you get them to go down by turning and holding the key turned clockwise in the door lock starting with a locked door?

Nice work, and love the scrawping word, perfect.

I suspect something is draining the battery when not in use, and there may also be a bad connection somewhere in the charging circuit. When the car is idling, and you're seeing only 13v or so across the battery, try measuring voltage between the body of the alternator (scratch through any oxide on the surface) and battery negative terminal. If there's any significant voltage there, it would tend to support the earlier comment about a poor earth connection. (By measuring the voltage drop between those points, you're indirectly measuring the resistance of the earth wiring and its connection points; a low voltage means low resistance connectivity, and vice versa). If there's hardly any difference indicated by that measurement, try instead between alternator output post (where the thick wire attaches) and battery positive terminal, for the other half of the wiring. Let us know those two numbers, as that will check both current paths (out and back to the alternator) and also, by adding all the numbers up, what the actual output voltage is at the alternator at idle.

Try this one instead: main key with variable code transponder - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2005 year] (7zap.com)

This page should have the info you need. Pay close attention to the column where left, right and LHD/RHD are differentiated. For each side of each LHD/RHD version there are three options, non-central locking, C/L with key only, and radio remote C/L. LLLParts

Fuse #40, 40 Amp rated I think? Is it a diesel?, if so there may be a relay involved too.

10 Amp seems too small to be the correct fuse. I'll see if I can find which is the right one, and its rating.

Try cleaning the contacts of the coin cell holder in the fob.

Consider using my repair service, just £50. Send me a message if interested. Details in the Entrepreneurs section.

I can't really see how this relates to your pics, but apparently the relay of interest will be in location 10b as shown here:

I'm just looking into the relay possibility. I have found a circuit, but not yet found the relay location on the relay panel. Bear with me please. Might be a much quicker/cheaper/easier thing to try first.

Might be worth a read of this thread, seems quite possible that you have a similar stalk contact burnout type failure. Fabia II Bandaid solution to High Beam failure TAKE2 - Skoda Fabia Mk II - BRISKODA

Better known as the 'dryer'. Absorbs any water that gets into the system. Tubular feature on one edge of condenser. Not as fictional as the clutch.