Breezy_Pete

Yeah, its normal for that lever to be movable, leave it alone. I very much doubt the reverse switch is any problem itself, the broken wire is obviously going to make it not work. Unwrap the black tape at the end of the plastic conduit tube, and then you will be able to split that tube apart and find the other end of the wire. Until the wire is fixed, there is no point in worrying about the switch. You can prove the fault is just the wiring if you strip back both ends of the broken section until you have clean copper, twist them together tightly and wrap some tape around. That should be enough to see it work, then you can think about making an improved, more weatherproof joint at your convenience.

That sounds like good advice, stay with same type for minimum complication.

Do you mean the connector, or the switch itself which is screwed into the gearbox? If you mean the connector, the method is described in my post on 21/07/19 above. The bit you've circled is a lever for locking the gear selector in a certain position used when resetting the cables.

I don't think anyone really has any clarity on the situation. Except perhaps amongst the makers of the management modules and their software writers. I don't know any of them unfortunately. I suspect the risks of problems with or damage to the new battery are wildly exaggerated, preying on peoples fears in order to extract revenue for dealerships. Certainly if there's no type change I can't see how anything is risked.

I'd love to see some measured/logged data (not hearsay) on whether EFB and AGM types really do get charged any differently by the alternator. I have doubts.

Have a look here, it sounds a bit like your V68 motor isn't managing to move its airflap. VCDS lite (freeware) is probably all you need to scan the HVAC module, but you will need to find a suitable FTDI cable. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/507163-heatingair-conditioner-issues/

No personal experience of radio issues, sorry. Pretty sure I've read that some factory-fit ones can develope a fault where an internal cooling fan stays on when it shouldn't, but I guess yours is something aftermarket?

Yep, I'll PM you shortly, just about to drive for a little while though.

I thought you said it doesn't work via key turned in door lock? Or doesn't always/reliably do so? If there are no broken wires, it's almost certainly the driver's window motor module.

That's the plug that connects door loom to A-pillar in the hinge area; wiring within rubber/plastic bellows.

No, it is far higher than it should be, something closer to 0.02 would be good. No.

Yep, that's the one I was thinking might be absent.

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Check that there's nothing mislocated underneath it, where it's trying to go down into. Airbag control unit only has power when ignition is on, so logically speaking, you don't even need to disconnect the battery; but safer to do so just in case you forget 'not' to switch ignition on.

No problem.

Broken wire in the door bellows, if fuse is good but no 12V at that pin with ignition on. Key in door lack of action does point to a poorly motor module.

Yep that's me, well worth checking for that ignition switched feed, it comes from fuse 11.

I don't understand how that's working, that blue/yellow wire is an input from the lock module. See if you have 12V on pin 2 of the 6-way when ignition is on, black/blue wire. I have a feeling that may be missing.

OK so a later one, I'm a bit confused about which wire you're sticking 12V on to get action, is it on the 8-way or 6-way connector? Wire colour?

What year is the car? Earlier cars had CAN bus to the window motors, later ones only talk to each other by LIN and have no central control. Part numbers of the LIN ones begin 6Y.

Dunno about the rear lock, maybe just another broken wire going to that door?

Can't you just run that wire along the existing loom, out through/near the grommet that takes the loom out of the scuttle into the bay near the ECU, and splice into the fuse wire after following the loom from there? May be hard to do super-neatly, but I'm not that fussy. 😁

If it was me, I'd run in a new wire from the cut stub of the one coming out of pin 6, all the way to near the fuse and splice into the existing wire there too.

I'm confused by that, pin 3 seems to go to the right dipped beam headlight bulb, so shouldn't connect to batt positive? What range is that meter on, in the pic where you're on pin 6, and is the probe definitely getting in there properly, and where's t'other probe?

I'll look up where that pin 3 supply is coming from in a sec, just need to finish making a cuppa.