Breezy_Pete

E-box is the big box full of fuses and relays in the engine bay.

Automatic glow period control unit is in the relay holder below the E-box, apparently. Position 2 of the two possibilities.

Good stuff @varooom. 🙂 Not sure how else to add this other than an attachment, but feel free to incorporate the contents explicitly if you know a good way. It covers all sorts, but crucially how to work with the 'numbers in rectangular boxes' which frequently fox newcomers to the CFDs (current flow diagrams). CFD explanations.pdf One more thing; for anyone wondering about the seemingly misplaced laughter (L0L) in some of varooom's examples, that's a code meaning Left Hand Drive. L0R is the equivalent for RHD. 😁

The whole "if it's fitted it must work" isn't true and probably never has been. A faulty spare tyre isn't any type of fail. There is a clause that says if the tester notices a problem with it they should inform the owner it's dodgy, but that's it.

Getting a bit blasé about long head biceps tendons now, who needs 'em? Finished the race and the next one in even more wind...

None so far, watch out for someone whose first post is in this thread and says something along the lines of " Have any of you doubters actually tried it? I have and it really works!" That'll be a franchise owner...😁

Been having a bit of pain in the other shoulder lately, and had to abandon some bench-pressing mid-set on Friday as the shoulder didn't feel right at all. Midway through a breezy sailing race this morning I pulled hard on a heavily loaded rope with my left hand, only to feel a 'pop' and then the sensation of someone pulling a rope through the inside of my upper arm. Not painful except for a cramping sensation when flexing the elbow. Pretty sure I now have the same failure on this side, long head biceps tendon rupture. Will try to get my local expert to have a look in the next day or two, but not expecting there to be any treatment worth pursuing.

No: that should actually hold the pulley still for you

Hold pulley still, put a tool on the central axle nut and see if there's play with attempted rotation.

There's no such thing as a MAF/throttle body, one is a sensor the other an actuator. Your car has only the latter.

Have you checked the 3 Torx screws that hold shear plate to pulley?

It'll be combined with the in-tank fuel pump and non-replaceable separately, I expect. VAG seem to have adopted this design lately. Petrol is pretty clean in most markets, so 100k+ miles on a fuel filter no problem at all. They don't care what happens after that, it probably won't be their bill. Servicing sched you can probably find via erWin Skoda, for a small fee.

It will have a label on it with part number and manufacturer info. See 2nd photo in this listing as an example AC PUMP SKODA YETI MK1 (Typ 5L) 2009 On 1197 CYVB Air Con Compressor - 10991242 | eBay

Hmm, I'm not seeing an easy win there.

I'd be taking the cluster out and having a look for any burnt-looking bits or tracks. The lighting is locally supplied from within that circuitboard as far as I can see.

They were screws up until some time in 2004, rivets thereafter, drawing not representative of both. Your car will have no threaded inserts for screws to go into, just plain holes for rivets. Any Skoda/VW group dealer or TPS will sell them to you.

window regulator; window guide; window aperture se... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2005 year] (7zap.com) Item 5 N 91078801

One connection that this brown plug carries is the LIN data bus between driver's and passenger side window motor modules, it's the grey/white wire on pin 6. It also carries the door open signal on the brown/yellow wire at pin 2, and one of the earth connections (brown) on pin 5. Grey blue wire on pin 1 is the switch illumination supply. Not really sure what to make of it, but suggest you find a bit of time (Saturday?) to pop over my way, ideally with door card removed in advance and we could test what happens with a known good window motor module. PM me if you like.

Tomorrow morning then, footie is getting all my attention just now!

Out and about til later, will see what I can dig out when I get home and have eaten. 9'ish.

A bit overgeneralising IMO mac. Mk1 Fabia are better, 9N era Polo are better. Probably lots of others too. Maybe it's just the more recent models?. It's the 'straight across the gap' approach that's daft. Anything where there's a vertical dogleg in the bellows instead is always going to last much better, as it makes it into more of a twisting rather than bending movement of the loom.

Anything to do with door-mounted electrics on a mk2 is almost always down to the crappy loom design at the bellows.

Yes, see at about 4:05 here: VW Golf KEY chip immobiliser location HOW TO DISMANTLE VW SEAT SKODA AUDI remote / rozbor klúča - YouTube

Is it just a four-way connector? (Doh, yes, I can see the pins' solder joints!) Mk1 facelift is 16-way. The pre- and post-facelift mk2 ones aren't even compatible with each other, on cars with front and rear elec windows at least. Try pulling the fuse for the drivers side motor module for a minute then reinserting. If that makes it work for a few minutes, try looking for busted wires in the door bellows.

Scrapyard should have lots, cheap.