Breezy_Pete

To fit a new one, the water pump either has to come off again, which would be a pain I imagine, or I think the thermostat housing has to come off, which in turn has an o-ring sealing it to the engine head (not shown on that diagram) which would then need replacing.

If the waterpump o-ring (item 23 in diagram) was not renewed/replaced when the new water pump was fitted, I'd say it's almost certainly that one that's leaking.

All the relevant parts/part numbers are shown here: coolant pump; coolant hoses and pipes; reservoir - Roomster(RO) [EUROPA 2009 year] (7zap.com) (view on computer, not phone to see all info). It seems the flexible pipe connection is from the expansion tank.

Very much more likely to be one or other of these coolant pipe/hose joints: O-ring seal in left hand circle between thermostat housing and plastic coolant pipe, flexible hose connection to the right of middle, and another o-ring seal on the far end of the rigid pipe into the water pump. If the thermostat housing has never been off, I think my top suspect would be the middle one, the connection to a flexible hose, not too sure where that goes to. A USB inspection camera may get in there and tell you exactly where it's originating.

I started to do this the other day, but it was tedious, and I decided it to be a waste of time as the part number of these servo hoses is printed clearly along the rigid plastic sections. For RHD cars the base part number will be 6Q2 612 041 and then there will be a letter or pair of letters after it. For LHD cars the third character is 1 instead of 2. These suffix letters are what differentiates the hose designs that suit the different engines. If you don't match these letters, you're buying the wrong hose. I doubt these are available in new condition anywhere other than VW group dealerships (e.g. Skoda) or TPS, both of whom will want to check part identity against your VIN/ reg number anyway, so no real need to tell them the part number. Edit: If you still want to know the right part number for your car, message me with the VIN as I can now look up current part numbers and retail price; but only with VIN.

New Old Stock.

It's so that if there are two regular drivers of significantly different height, as is often the case, both mirrors can be adjusted rapidly to suit the two viewpoints.

Little point in guessing, get it scanned.

Try swapping wheels/tyres between front and rear.

The immobiliser chip is in the physical key end of the fob, not the RF electronics bit, swap in a new electronics bit, keeping the rest. (From memory, of VW/Polo style fob, can't remember what Fabia one is like offhand)

Have you checked that the compressor shaft is actually turning, as well as the pulley? Everything you see when you look at the end of the pulley should all be rotating. Fan action won't be triggered until refrigerant pressure exceeds 9 bar.

Nope. that would be because they aren't connected to any central databuses (CAN), only to each other with 1-wire LIN bus. Invisible to diagnostics. The keyfob is much, much more vulnerable to damage than the CCM unit's receiver section.

Yep Yes

Maybe also search for NOS whole driveshafts of the correct part number on ebay? I picked a genuine one up for £25 delivered once.

The relevant cabin fuses appear to be 9 and 22, 5 Amp and 7.5 Amp respectively, ignition and permanent 12V feeds to the HVAC module. Can your scanner look at live data? Like G65 high pressure sensor output? or 'shutoff codes'? I'm pretty sure VCDS lite will work on your car, which can be up and running very cheaply if you have a windows laptop.

Whenever anyone talks about a battery clamp that can't be tightened enough, I always like to mention the taper of the battery posts, cos I don't think everyone is aware of it.

Photo of the negative clamp? Possibly just needs the screw loosening off lots, then the thing being pushed further down the taper of the battery post?

Sounds like the unlock button of the fob is your problem. Not sure how easy it would be to replace the switch that the button clicks.

Thanks for sharing this info. I look forward to hearing of more success soon. 🙂

Yeah that does suggest WM and wire path OK, at that time, but they (WMs) can show intermittent (mis)behaviour. Not sure what's going on at this point.

I'm not certain that this is a safe conclusion. There's a key turned signal that goes via WM and that wire, but there's also another microswitch or two in the lock module whose status is directly monitored by CCU with a wire that doesn't go via WM. The latter may be getting through OK, but the former not reliably. I'd be having a look in the bellows if it were mine.

I'll have to have a think about it, but I would think keyfob problem rather than receiver/central convenience unit problem, TBH. You can get keyfobs pretty cheap on ebay.

I guess you could have a broken wire in the door bellows. So the key position info is getting to the WM, but not to the central convenience unit? It's a thin black/blue wire from pin 8 of the WM.

Have you tried this today, i.e. very recently? The status of the key position microswitches in the lock go via the WM. As you're just down the road, maybe pop up one evening with door card off to try a known good WM and see if that helps the situation?

Might also be worth acquiring another fob* to try. I helped a fella recently who'd been told by VW themselves that his RF fob was working correctly, only to find that when I sent him a spare I had, the problem he was having went away. *just the electronics half, not the immo chip + physical key bit. Oh, and also make sure the battery contacts are clean, to ensure it's operating at full power.