Breezy_Pete

Was it readable once cleaned off?

edited into previous

Edit: You are talking about the drain and fill plugs, rather than the leaky bolt? Or are you? If the drain/fill plugs then M16 XZN with a hole in the tip, by the looks of it e.g. : BGS 4357 Vielzahn Nuss Bit XZN M16x100 Bohrung Getriebe AUDI A3 A4 A6 3357 T3023 | eBay This bit "3357 T3023" matches the VW part number of the tool which is given just alongside those two images in the workshop manual. If you mean the leaky bolt's head instead, then it'll be an M6 or M8 XZN bit depending on which bolt you have out of these two options TMB posted upthread a bit, I guess: M6 - turn 5 Nm and 90° (part number N 90929102). M8 - turn 25 Nm and 45° (Part number N 90972701)

It doesn't matter what you buy, you will think it's great unless you do before and after dyno runs. So don't do that. And make sure any included hoses are pretty coloured.

Glad it's all over for you.

Most likely a broken wire or bad connection, from mk1 experience. Follow the brown/red wire from the 2-way connector at the alternator, and it will change colour to violet/green at pin 3 of an 8-way connector pair at the front left of the engine bay (left as seen sitting in the car looking forward). Check connectivity between those two connectors, and wiring for breakage anywhere on that run. If that seems OK, check the run of the violet/green leg from the 8-way to engine ECU pin 65.

Isn't it an electromechanical power steering system with all of the electrics in the steering column area within the cabin? In other words, is there a sensor anywhere in the firing line of run-over debris?? I guess there could be indirect damage to the motor/gears/whatever in that cabin-based stuff, coupled through mechanically from the front wheel impact?

Read this: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485119-lost-marbles/?do=findComment&comment=5449389

Fault codes that refer to terminal 30 usually mean that low voltage has been detected at the device giving the code. I guess the power connections to the PAS module are the next thing to examine/clean. For most mk1 Fabias, strip fuse no. 3 supplies the positive feed, and the earth is near the PAS fluid reservoir cap. The connector at the pump/module needs a bit of care when unplugging, I broke the latch on a spare one when I first tried to disconnect the loom connector. What year is your car?

Terminal 30 refers to battery positive and everything that connects to it. Terminal 31 is battery negative.

Maybe try cleaning the ends of the positive connection from alternator next?. Remove battery negative connection first, then the thick cable at the alternator, and the other end at the strip fuse closest to the engine. Maybe do the fuse end first, access is very easy compared to the alternator end. If you're lucky you may not have to do both. Also check the short main earth connection from battery negative to chassis.

This shot from an ebay ad tantalisingly doesn't quite catch the suffix on the end of the true number, arrowed:

That's not the right part number , I'm pretty sure. There's often more than one label on there.

Yep, or you might be able to figure it out from the PR codes on the build sticker in the boot. Various 3-character PR numbers starting with G correlate with different part numbers and diameters of front strut. This is a screenshot from 7zap, but there are two other pages here and here if info on your particular "G" number and part number combination isn't on this one: G02, G03 and G10 seem to be the 55mm ones from quick scans of the three pages. Measuring as a double check isn't a bad idea though.

Well done for getting it going again. According to the WDs those two microswitches feed back 'locked' and 'deadlocked' status if I'm interpreting this correctly. (The pin 5 connections below). Looks like the resistor tracks to the one you found trouble with, so that must be the deadlocked/Safe one. The two microswitches not fitted on that lock of yours are the ones that go to pin 4, registering the key position on locks with keyholes. Key neutral/upright results in that pin being open circuit, then the two (locking / unlocking) positions result in the two states shown there. "No resistance" where mentioned below means "short to ground/earth".

Nice crack!

I think the alternator and battery are both in good working order, but the effect of the battery booster suggests that one of the cables between the alternator and battery may be higher resistance than it should be. This is quite likely to be due to corrosion at one or both terminal connections. Both of the earth cable ends are quite open to splashed water. I would start with the main earth cable that links starter motor and chassis. Take off the battery negative clamp first, then disconnect both ends of this cable, and clean the connecting crimp terminals, as well as the surfaces they touch when installed. The engine end connects to the upper mounting bolt of the starter motor, the chassis end connects to the left chassis leg, just above the fan control module, arrowed in this photo:

You said earlier that you "checked the battery voltage" but you didn't tell us what the voltage was, nor the conditions when you measured it. Measure between the battery posts before starting the engine, key not even in the ignition barrel. Then start the engine, wait a minute and take another reading. With those two numbers we may be able to help better.

Did you have the car completely level front-to-back and side-to-side when refilling?

The ignition-on feed is black/grey (from cabin fuse 2) and goes to pin 20 or pin 4 depending on how many frills your system has. Pin 20 on the basic set-up.

What year is the car, and what type of ABS is it?

There might be another power feed, possibly an ignition-on one? Can look up in a bit when I get back forma brief trip out.

The Bosch part number of the MAF is F00C262055. Written just below the word Bosch. Copy/paste that into ebay or ask your preferred local motor factors to get one for you. All the 0's are noughts not letter 'oh'. Dunno about airbox thing but almost certainly safe to ignore for now.

Nope, sorry. There's a resistor within the motor housing of the fan. They don't last well. There is a repair possible where you wire in a (big) external resistor, or there's new replacement fan. Depends how you get on with wires/soldering. Need more confirmation first though, by bridging thermoswitch loom connector wires.

I'd think that may well indicate that the low-speed resistor has failed in the fan. I can't see why the self-test wouldn't include the low speed function.