Breezy_Pete

Unplug the 2-way connector if you haven't already. Bend the cat heatshield towards alt to improve access to the 8mm nut, then away from it after that's off, to give more room for the plastic cap and 13mm nut that holds positive lead on. Battery negative off before you attempt to undo that 13mm. Then don't be surprised if the alt takes a bit of levering out, with large flat screwdriver or similar, between it and block.

Timing belt covers for a DFGA engine shown here. Appears to consist of three sections, see image in link. No part number shown for item 1a, so maybe just two parts for the engine codes shown. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/1/109/109065

It's good to see 14.2V +/- 0.2 at the battery, with light or no loads switched on. It's a bit temperature dependent, so expect a higher number in cold ambient temperatures with cold engine, and lower if ambient or engine temperature is higher.

Assuming your car doesn't have start/stop, there's no coding that could be done. If the radio is Skoda original and currently working, it won't need a code after battery change. Just change the battery, it'll be fine. Recheck voltages afterwards, alternator cabling may need a bit of attention if engine-running voltage isn't higher with a good battery fitted.

Glad to read that you're back on the road. 🙂

@AdverseFabiaOwner, is yours a 6-valve or 12-valve 1.2?

Yes, possibly the too-high oil level was causing the crank to contact it and churn it into a froth. The aerated oil would be more compressible than oil should be, resulting in low pressure.

Any chance you're looking at the auxiliary belt thinking it's the timing belt?

Nearest coolant channels through the gasket may be far enough from the breach to not leak into it. Needs professional diagnosis I think really, since any major work on this engine type is going to involve a lot of hours of labour stripping stuff down, so going on a wild goose chase is likely to be costly.

Head gasket leak between 3 and 4 seems like one possible explanation, given those numbers. Resulting misfires running fuel down bore walls, spoiling sealing?

Coolant leak into alternator?? Oil cooler and various coolant hoses seem close to it. Maybe the coolant leak caused the non-charging of battery. What's the level in the tank now?

Oh, great result; thanks for reporting back. 👍

Yep, since it's plastic/soft, the rust grows into it. Can't see any penetrating fluid making much difference really. Time travel backwards is probably the best strategy.

With serration is 70Nm plus 90° Without is 200Nm plus 180° ! Note: "Vehicle must not be standing on its wheels for tightening the screw"

Serrated on underside of head (A), or smooth (B)?

Tried a beast of a battery-powered gun, didn't move it!

I did the cambelt on my 1.4/16V BBY engine Polo recently. Getting the old bolt out was nearly a showstopper. It was the recessed head type, changed by VW 10 years ago when they did belt and WP. 1 meter long 3/4" breaker bar on the bolt, that long counterhold tool being held by a biggish pal, and I was just bouncing up and down with no progress. Luckily another pal who'd experienced the same snag suggested heat (which of course lengthens the bolt and so reduces the tension in it). Made all the difference without going mad on the temperature, since there are plastics nearby.

No problem. The relay on that car is in position 5 of the "relay holder below the onboard power supply control unit". It feeds the blower motor switch via fuse 40, the rear wiper via fuse 41, and goes to the light switch via fuse 49 (presumably to switch off headlights briefly if on when cranking starts, or suchlike). The fact the rear wiper is still working suggests that the relay isn't completely dead, but the contacts may be degraded to the point that it struggles to allow enough current to spin up the blower motor from a standstill. I believe the part number of this relay is 4H0 951 253, and it probably has 100 or 644 written on the top of it.

Oh, OK. There is a relay that feeds fuse 40 and a few others including rear wiper. It's the load reduction relay used during cranking, to minimise non-essential current usage. Would need to know more car details to look up exactly where to find it. VIN, or just exact build date if you know it.

Does the car have a rear wiper? If so, is that also not working?

Yes, normal. May be easier to use a litre jug refilled a few times rather than trying to pour directly from 5L container.

Think you missed my point. The 4°C warning in our 05 Fabia is very loud and nasty, but the indicator ticking noise is only just loud enough. Anything you do to reduce the volume of the chime is probably going to reduce the volume of the indicator ticking too.

Whereabouts is the car currently?

I'd say there's a good chance your son is right.

Really glad that neither my Polo nor A4 feature that 'orrible 4°C thing.