Breezy_Pete

A condition check of the spark plug in cylinder 3, if not all, would be wise prior to any parts spending, to be honest, if garage have not done so.

Cylinder 3, I think Gaz. See full description under this vid: https://youtu.be/1ZyIgvil_9A?si=DKGeqbpjK8ZPBPVu I would certainly not replace unfailed ones, but I might acquire a spare to keep in the car, for potential roadside repairs.

PM'ing you about this now.

Sorry, I don't know the answer to either of those questions. Front bumper may well have to be removed to replace it, which adds a bit of labour time. If you can DIY, it may save a fair bit. Shame there don't seem to be any aftermarket units available yet.

@Stevept80, I didn't check for you the other day, but having just done so, I see that the part number you quoted was superseded by Skoda to 6V2941015F, which is what they presumably quoted for, £496 + VAT? (£595.20) Which makes the LLL one seem relatively cheap; although it's now showing as check availability, so may be illusory. A suffix-E one on ebay at similar price https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134827777739

Physical damage to existing unit, or internal failure?

This may be marginally cheaper, but still eye-watering https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/6V2941015E/vag-led-headlight-6v2941015e

Well done for persisting and winning!

Terminal 30 simply refers to anything that is a permanent 12V connection.

Driver's door motor module needs repairing. Classic symptoms described in your post. Message me or look in the Entrepreneur section for details of repair service, if you wish.

Yes, I believe so. Could you maybe solder the wires straight onto those pins coming out of the regulator?

That photo would make me think it's a connection problem, right there.

Possibly a problem with the voltage regulator part of the alternator, is it original as far as you know? What voltage do you see across battery terminals with engine running?

Pin 1 brown, earth Pin 2 black, +5V Pin 4 blue, signal.

Water pump on the end...

What year is your Yeti? Which fuse (number) did you look at? (Owners manuals are sometimes incorrect/out of date). Broken wire(s) inside boot at A-pillar where the door loom plugs into the cabin loom, possibly.

Yep, 507 00, whether on fixed or variable servicing.

My other suspicion would be that the sidelight failed a while back without being noticed, and the headlight is the shuttered, single-bulb type and that has failed.

I have a feeling that I've seen people successfully repairing this component or similar versions from other models. A ribbon cable within it breaks and can be re-connected with some care, I think. One alternative is an offputting £245.50 plus VAT price tag for a new genuine one at a Skoda dealer's parts counter. Not sure what, if anything, is available aftermarket.

No stop/start = no coding required.

If the indicator isn't working as well, I'd think maybe the connector to the left headlamp assembly has come loose?

I think I need to have a tinker with my 9n Polo, currently off the road, to measure those WW and INT connections during the action to see directly what occurs.

A couple of examples, Octy mk2 and Yeti. You participated in both. It's not a Fabia thing. Rear wiper stopped working - Skoda Octavia Mk2 (2004 - 2013) - BRISKODA 2010 yeti rear wiper - Skoda Yeti - BRISKODA I looked up mk4 Octavia as a very recent Skoda, just for interest, same circuit again, seems pretty universal. None of the wires in any of the V12/rear wiper circuits I've seen thus far are labelled CANH or CANL, as CAN wires always are in these diagrams. Anyone know of a Skoda where there is such CAN wiring to a rear wiper motor? If your rear wiper is a CAN node, you should see it on a VCDS autoscan, I would have thought. Got an example?

From recent posts on here, I think car data is no longer offered to private individuals accessing erWin. May only be a UK thing, not sure.

Could also be a coolant leak into exhaust via the EGR cooler, plus an exhaust leak at, perhaps, the flexi joint after the DPF. Again, might only be happening or apparent during a regeneration cycle when everything is so much hotter. Edit: On second thoughts, the exhaust gases going through there are on their way back into the engine, not on their way out, so I think that makes it unlikely to give the symptoms you're seeing. Also, EGR function will be inhibited except at the end of the regen cycle.