Breezy_Pete

Ta; but this engine is longitudinally mounted, so I guess I'd have to be listening somewhere under the gearstick instead.

I've no idea what it's doing. New experience for me having one.

Yes.

Yes and yes. Colours going to sensor 2 ( bank 1 sensor 2) are: From fuse to sensor pin 1 - blue/yellow From ECU pin 5 to sensor pin 2 black (thicker one) From ECU pin 35 to sensor pin 3 green From ECU pin 16 to sensor pin 4 black (thinner one) Connections 1 and 2 at the sensor are the heater.

The second (nearer tailpipe) sensor should only have 4 wires, maybe you are looking at that? The diagram I posted is for the one nearest the engine, which is a wideband type, these always have more than four wires, I believe.

It's this I think:

@Treb_Kavon can you please share the VIN, so I can pick the most relevant diagram by build date?

Perhaps cos the DMF has too much waggle? Or would that make it more forgiving, not sure!

Yep, no warning stumble really, just bang! off! I must admit I have got used to avoiding the stall, but my impression is it should be much harder to accidentally do so than it is.

@J.R., this is what I'm hoping to set up at the bottom end, then see if the pin will go in at the cam sprocket, or the marks at the back of it and head vaguely line up.

The second time the missus stalled it yesterday she was going round a mini roundabout. PASless it's a beast to steer, as I found out the other day. Not that a separate belt would've helped in that situation.

How would I know the crank is at TDC when one of the marks that I'm supposed to line up with is on the locking tool?

PWMed single electric fan on this one, not sure how easy it is to shed. I did pick up some gloop for the corners of the gasket, ta. I think the compressor and PAS are all on the same aux belt? Think the belt is first target though, maybe this weekend, or next week. Nothing much else is going on, right? 😄

Oh, I didn't think of that. Would explain why there were no scary numbers. Thanks so much. That link in previous post looks like a wealth of info to digest. Got a spare cam cover gasket this morning at GSF, and ordered a set of timing tools to come tomorrow. Just hoping I can get enough access to get the crank lock thing in without having to hinge the front of the car forward. From brief attempts with some of the accessible fasteners, I'm pretty sure the front bumper has never been off. [Which, now that I type that, makes me wonder if/how the belt was changed in 2020, as the service book claims...].

Observed something interesting yesterday evening while looking at measuring blocks. Nothing I actually saw being weird in the measurements, but with a mid-temperature engine idling in a car park, I found that I could make it feel like it was misfiring by raising the revs to a particular speed around 1150 or so. Whole car shaking a bit. Scanned through lots of MVBs while it was doing this without noticing any 'stand out' numbers anywhere!

Yes, most of the roads round here don't ever get quiet enough to do anything other than modest speeds, but it just never gets to 90C within the first 12-15 miles of a journey, and usually seems to linger nearer 80. Surprisingly, the dash gauge does seem to pretty accurately display what VCDS reads from both NTCs within the green dual sender. Oil temp is consistent with both of those two, although I guess all three could be suffering downward drift. Might swap in a spare sender I've bought to see if it's all just an illusion.

You can adjust the position of the latch with two or three Torx screws.

You need to be underneath the car to access the fasteners of the oil separator, and it's not totally easy then, cos the subframe gets in the way of good visibility. If you don't have trolley jack and axle stands to raise/support the front of the car safely, don't bother trying.

Can't remember what has gone before with this car. Have you inspected or replaced the oil separator/PCV valve assembly on the back of the engine block?

It's heat that they don't like more than cold.

15 years is a good innings for a battery. It will probably have visible VW group part number on the top surface if it is factory original. Maybe a date code too. With a bit of luck, you'll find you don't need to mess about putting the new one on charge so regularly, unless there's a parasitic drain.

Like someone who wants their front fogs to be LED rather than any other type of light source isn't going to want them on all the time to show everyone...

I think it may be best to try another light switch if you can find a cheap secondhand one with exactly the same part number as yours.

The relay being referred to earlier in this thread is actually a control unit for bulb failure warning, housed in a (wide) relay-like box. It spanned positions 13 and 14 of the mk1 relay panel. It had no connection to the CAN network and there isn't such a thing as the 'canbus light system' in a mk1 Fabia. It featured on mk1 Fabia, but I have a feeling the function would have been incorporated into another control unit such as the BCM by the time a 2012 mk2 Fabia was built @Hogstar Edit: a quick look at the earliest mk2 circuits suggests it wasn't a separate control unit even at launch of the mk2. Does your car give bulb failure warnings? Which rear lights aren't working? Have you checked the bulbs?