Breezy_Pete

Phone cam photos from various angles may reveal info on it somewhere. I certainly wouldn't take it off unless you have a correct one ready to fit on, or fuel will pee out of the tank until empty, I think.

3 Bar fuel system, check that someone hasn't fitted a 4 bar one due to duff info from ECP lookup by reg or similar.

Might be worth checking that the fuel pressure regulator hasn't been replaced with a wrongly rated one during a fuel filter replacement. That can play havoc with the engine ECU's ability to get fuelling ratios right. If you let me know VIN or reg plate I can check what should be fitted, then you can compare with what's stamped on the rear end of the filter assy just in front of rear right (driver's side) wheel.

Use a fully charged battery to get home. Should be easy, and if you have a spare, relatively stress free. Then see if you can remove brushpack/regulator with alt in situ with all your tools available. Brushes may be worn too short, or stuck in holder.

Leave it patched, it'll be fine.

Have a look under the rear seats, looking for a cable that goes through the floor on the left, (UK passenger) side. If you find one, I think you'll find the alarm horn underneath the car below there.

Check for broken wires between passenger front door and A-pillar connectors, also check for corrosion of connector contacts, especially if the rubber boot doesn't seem to be sealing well against the paintwork before you start work. The central area of the instrument cluster has a 'maxidot' information display on some models, but most just have a few warning lights in that area.

If you have the FSIII system, I think the brake caliper will have FS - III stamped into the outer face quite visibly. If you have the larger brakes I think you will have a different caliper with something else marked on it. If you tell me the 17-character vehicle identification number I can look it up directly for you, also.

A new favourite as of today. It's a long listen, but apart from the two product placements within it, is all very worthwhile: (it's about ultra-processed foods)

Are the contacts of fuse 30 clean - not corroded, and is the fuse a good fit (not loose) in the fusebox contacts?

No. Basically, all the carbon atoms in the hydrocarbon fuels become carbon dioxide, and all the hydrogens become water. The efficiency is irrelevant to what the reaction products are, just affects how far you get per litre burnt.

You have the smaller discs (front brake PR=1LB), so the part number to buy/match is 6Q0 407 621 CB. The more common one, for 256mm discs has a larger hub section that won't fit inside your discs, Is the fitting kit you have suitable for Gen2 wheel bearings?

Be careful when buying bearing, there are two different ones depending on brake system type. I'll grab correct part number via your reg in a minute. ECP and their ilk will probably offer both correct and incorrect parts.

It's part of the wheel bearing, unfortunately; and not a simple job to change that either.

If it's the twin cam 70 bhp one, valve damage is extremely likely. If it's the single cam 60 bhp, slightly less inevitable.

That fuse covers interior lighting as well as central locking, apparently. Expands the search area a bit. Sorry, don't know enough about mk1 Octy enough to help any more than that.

What year is the car?

Depends how many drive cycles occur without the fault(s) re-presenting, after the lights showed. In this case, yes, something seems likely to be readable.

First one I listed in the cabin was fuse 8, not 5. 👍

Yes, on cars from May 2011 build it is listed as vacant. Yours was built 24th Sept. Was used in some earlier time periods, and again in some later ones. Owner's manual and generic online info usually struggles and fails to cover all such variants. Battery fuseholder looks like this, with the relevant one highlighted. Measure for 12V on the nut that holds the cable to it. *Confusingly the numbering on the fuseholder itself differs from the numbering in circuits, due to the missing one being counted in the car, but not in the diagram* (I seem to remember, please confirm/deny when you've had a look).

There are four cabin fuses shown as involved in your A/C system, Fuse number (Fuse rating) 8 (5) 9 (5) 22 (7.5) 39 (30) There's also the 50A strip fuse in battery fuseholder (2nd from right I think) that feeds the fan control module. If all of those are intact, I would be checking the wiring to the compressor control solenoid, and checking that the compressor shear plate hasn't lived up to its name and resulted in the pulley spinning but the compressor shaft not.

Reg plate number or VIN to enable detailed spec to be accessed would be key to me helping here.

I would be quite doubtful that it is worth replacing the fan control unit. The resistor in the fan is a much more common failure. I think the fan can be removed from above as long as you can unplug the connection, and reach the three Torx screws that hold the plastic 'tripod' that it mounts onto.

This guy has a good idea with the screwdriver, but omits to push the connector first, which does increase the risk of breaking the latch. The reason for this is that there is a seal within the connector which needs to be compressed to remove the friction in the latch parts.

@EMF push connector body towards alternator then lift the latch in the opposite direction while maintaining this push. You should hear the latch click open, then pull connector away. I don't think this is the same situation as described earlier in this thread though. In the mk1, it always seems to be 10 mins until ASR light appears when DFM wire is broken. 20 miles must take longer than that, I hope.