varaderoguy

It's the same....

Welcome to the group. Sorry we didn't reply before now. Internally, manual and service record in the glovebox. Umbrella hopefully in the driver box under seat. In the boot, you may have a can of foam for emergency repairs and a 12v pump plus a tyre wrench. If you have a spare tyre, there should be a whole load of tools in the foam insert. Both should have tyre towing hooks in them. Suggested upgrades. Spare tyre and tools if you don't have them (about 200ukp) Skoda/VW warning triangle (specific location for storing in the boot) Skoda First Aid kit (specific location on the right side of the boot) Hi Viz tabards as appropriate Things to check (because dealers never seem to check them these days): Oil level: suggest 1l of 0W30 LL3 VW504/507 spec oil. Coolant level (make sure you have some G12evo in stock to top up occasionally) Tyre pressures (found in the fuel filler cap) Hope that helps Enjoy.

Normal. That's just the ECU saying Hi. For anything you do in the car it makes a note of it. Open the bonnet, logs and status are updated. Open the door...same thing. Don't worry about it....you will get use to the VAG quirks.

The clutch plates for the VRS are the same as a Golf GTI. 220bhp is no hassles. They start getting flakey above 250/260bhp and in that case, you need to upgrade the clutch and possibly the dual mass flywheel too.

You might have fallen foul of the window position's needing to be recalibrated. Off the top of my memory, that whole switch panel is tied into the door controller logic. The doors just need to know where the windows are at (especially if you remove the battery for the work you just did). ignition on, engine started. Individually: press the window down and HOLD the down position of the switch for 15 secs. Wind window up, and hold for 15 secs. Now repeat for each window. Switch off engine, remove key, lock car and hopefully your alarm plays nicely now.

Okay. I think this is an oil pressure issue. The cam adjustment is not correct and that's the noise you initially are hearing. Caused by initial poor oil delivery into the cam phasor. Suggest new oil / filter as a first step. When was the last time the timing chain/belt was done? Have you scanned the car for any faults at all? If so, please post here.

Peeps...be careful when you do MIB updates. It's not complicated If you know what you are doing. There are plenty of postings on how to do them. If you are trying to do a firmware update with inappropriate versions of firmware and you aren't sure what you are doing, *STOP* AND ASK FIRST. There is a section on Briskoda called Electronics, Security and Audio where hopefully your questions can be answered. You also need to know where the best place is for firmware for your device, as there are lots of hacked and inappropriate versions floating around the internet. Emergency updates are usually caused by corrupt, incomplete or incorrect versions of firmware.

What did you scan it with?

It all depends on your budget. Honestly (and it depends on how long you want to keep the car for) I would go for a genuine towbar. They are expensive but it integrates into the car's MIB system far better than any third party kit. It comes in two parts - the electronics harness and the second part is the towbar installation part (ideally go for a removable hook variant). Prices can be obtained from your local dealer.

A scan is really going to help matters. You can either get / find somebody with VCDS or get an ODBeleven dongle to do the scan and post it here. The symptoms you mention could be related to a multitude of things. A scan can help us direct you in the right direction.

I wouldn't worry. There was a limit issue with sand in the engineblock casting not being blown out properly, but it shouldn't be a problem in the fuel filter area. Frankly the filter looks really clean to me. You will find lots of dirt and nastiness in a fuel filter (probably brought in by dirt in the fuel tank of whichever fuel station you filled up at). That's what the fuel filter is there for. Well done for catching some dirt in the High Pressure Fuel Pump and well done for cleaning it out. Keep an eye on it, maybe do another fuel filter replacement in a couple of thousand miles or Kms if it really bothers you.

Err - no - its never really worked for anybody that functionality. You need to download the latest firmware first, then apply the latest maps. Resident expert @pab567 can help. The maps from skoda have to be done seperately. https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/

There is a firmware version up to 0490 for that system, and there are maps for up to 2020/21 available from Skoda for that system.

Google Play Music was replaced with Youtube Music two years ago. Can you also send us the firmware version of the MIB system? Press and HOLD Menu, then go to Versions and press Version - take a screenshot. The reason is that a lot of Amunsden systems are still rocking around with their Original firmware and I know that on certain versions of firmware for MIB2/2.5 - Bluetooth playing is glitchy.

Its a possibility. You working on the basis that if the wing/rest of the body is out, then the alignment won't be true? Its slightly hard from the supplied photo to really comment much. If everything "looks" okay, then it might be worth getting the car independantly verified by an assessor. It needs to be put on ramps and checked/measured. Its also worth doing (if you haven't done it already) - doing an HPI and vehicle damage check on the car to see if its been damaged in the past. IMHO - dealers don't often check this (they should) so you end up with problem car.

Like all these faults, we really need output from VCDS / ODBEleven for us to comment further. It could be a failed EGR valve or it could be an electrical fault for the actuator.

Its an easy process to replace all the parts. You will need some plastic spludgers: 1) move the mirror (manually if the electronics are struggling) and move it to the far right on the horizontal plane. 2) Get the spudgers in and gently tease it out. If you get the spudgers on the plastic backing it makes it much easier and will make sure you will lessen the chance of breaking the glass. 3) Depending on the glass, you may have no connection (no heating), two connections (heating) or three (if you have heating and lights assist sensing auto-dipping on the mirror). Gently remove these. Make a note of where the two metal ended connectors go onto which pin as in theory they are polorised. Recommend that you put some different coloured insulation tape around each connector. 4) Use the plastic spludgers to flip out the top lid. Be careful for the tabs as they can be brittle. There are two - a top left and a bottom right. 5) Remove the mirror mount back plate (two screws) 6) Now remove the bottom part of the mirror. Two tabs - one left hand side, one right hand side. 7) You should now have access to any puddle light and the indicator repeater. You might want to take this time to upgrade your puddle and repeaters to Audi style and improved LED version (option - not on all cars). You can find the parts at kopacek.com 8 ) You can now reassemble - start with puddle light, repeater, put the bottom of the mirror back onto the frame. Then the front surround. Remember to route the cables properly for the heated mirrors and use some copper slip for the heater pins. 9) Last thing should be the mirror cap. Make sure that all electronic mirror movements work. Hope that helps.

That's the fusebox internally - try the one under the bonnet.

Have a look to see if water has got into the fusebox in the engine bay. Sounds like a relay is sticking on.

Three areas to check: 1) Sounds like you have check the sunroof drains. The only possible thing I can think of is that there is possible split in the drain. 2) Coolant - if you are using a lot of coolant then you will need to check the heater matrix as it might of sprung a leak and is leaking internally. Looking where the leak is, this looks most likely. 3) Windscreen is not properly sealed. Have a hosepipe spray and check the edge of the screen inside with a torch.

I suppose it depends on what you enjoy or what to do. If your car is a hobby and there is no timeline, go ahead, order the parts, do it as/when you have time/inclination to do it. If you use it for getting to work etc and its a necessity, then getting a specialist to do it probably the way forward. Consider finding a good independant VAG specialist and ask them for a price for a new clutch pack and flywheel.

partially - yes. I've had many MK3's - some go flat when fully pushed down and some go flat when partially push up.

Make sure you have the rear headrests full pushed down. If they stick out they catch and cause the seats not to push down more fully.

You need firmware for P0480 and you have an Amunsden system (Bolaro with Nav).