varaderoguy

Easy @J.R. I've experienced this exact problem myself at those speeds. Just expressing my experience on the matter.

When was the last time your car did a regen? Did you let it complete? Re: dpf. You need to get hold of a dongle (I think it's called an ELM compatible dongle) and a copy of VAGDPF. This will interrogate the car and give you the soot levels in your car in a graphical format. A quick Google showed that you can get those values in Odbeleven: select Control unit: 01 Engine Then select live data Then from the very long list select Particulate filter, est. blocking the reg. field Particle filter, req. of the reg. field Particle filter, kilometers from the last reg. Particulate filter, oil ash mass Particle filter, calculated soot mass Particle filter, measured soot mass Particle filter, time since the last regeneration We need the oil ash mass, calculated soot mass and measured soot mass to start of with please.

Can we get a proper code scan done and posted up here pls? We can then advise more fully.

Yes my friend. PayPal money to: [email protected] and I'll need your address please.

Don't start popping out random fuses. You will end up in a world of pain! Codes galore! Sounds like the shaft linking the front gearbox with the Haldex system has become unbalanced. Get it rebalanced.

What you trying to do / achieve? Have you tried running on some super diesel / putting in a cetane improver - to help clean out the EGR before you have go into the unit itself? What codes are you getting?

I have yet to find a Skoda Dealer who knows how to drive the MIB2 or MIB3 systems. If it's any consolation, my "new to me" Octavia L&K from a proper Skoda dealer wasn't setup at all. They didn't even do a handover. They were more interested in selling me insurance products. First thing I did when I got in the car was reset the MIB system. This is really important to do because (as you said) all the owners details were on there (including their home address). Fixed based servicing is a bit of a misnomer. If you do micro-miles it makes sense. Rather try to go with condition based servicing if you can (as the car will tell you when it needs attention). Re: inspection service. See the screenshot above. The exact wording is Oil and Inspection service. I think this is actually bad English/German translation in all honesty from the original service schedule. Most people think that Inspection is: the techs look at the car, check it over and press the reset button. There is a lot more to this. I prefer the original minor and major service previously used by VAG, but people got confused on these terms too. Oil and Inspection service is equivalent to the old "minor service" plus any age appropriate servicing (e.g. brake fluid, cabin air filter changes etc). Skoda will always do an oil/filter change, then do a complete inspection of the car underneath and in the engine bay.

The car is not lying. It's saying the wiper motor is exhibiting high electrical resistance and is probably on its way out. Two areas to look at: grease the cardon shaft from the motor to the blade (because that can sometimes bind) and if that doesn't work, replace the motor (ideally with OEM)

The system would have thrown a code for a failed washer pump. Can you get your car code scanned and see if there is an error present please?

Hello Aquai, I appreciate that your Octavia is now about 9 years old, but I think that honestly, all of your issues would go away if you put in a decent set of OEM VAG glowplugs or at least some Bosch glowplugs. There is already a posting on how to do this: You are getting a circuit malfunction due to the fact that the engine ECU is expecting to do some testing on some electronics - that aren't there. The rough running will be because the ECU is trying to keep the engine going without the feedback from the third cylinder glowplug electronics.

There is also a TSI190 (petrol) engine as well as a 186/190TDI (diesel) engine

There is a known weakness with the original waterpump on the MK3 Octavia's (pre-facelifted). The waterpump's disintegrate internally; the new VAG design stops that from happening. (edited) Cambelt and Waterpump is done all in a oner - budget for between £450 and £500 for VAG genuine service. https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/d300a459-5ef6-433f-a49f-65f3638efaa1

With anything like this, it will be an earthing point problem. You might want to spend for an hour's worth of access to Skoda ErWin for access to the wiring diagrams.

Have you checked the fuse? I think (please check your manual) that it is Fuse 27 in the glovebox. It may well be the motor that has failed.

You are also right. The handbrake mechanism can be struck if the handbrake is left on or the cable/mechanism is not occasionally lubricated.

Have a look at the various Bolaro/Amundsen postings. You have a SOP4.x system and as I understand it, your latest version should be 0480. I've posted on the forum how do it.

I suggest you look at the rest of the forum. If you look at the coding modifications, then you should find what you are looking for.

I know it might sound expensive, but take the car to a genuine Skoda Dealer and get to replace it under fixed price servicing. Remember the pump will then have a 2 year warranty on it.

The TSI 2.0engine is a great lump. I purchased a set of plugs a couple of years back and they set me back about 65ukp for a genuine set of Iridium plugs. I think the coil packs are about 300ukp for a genuine set.

Can you check the oil level please and possibly consider a filter and oil change? The TSI 1.0L engine always starts off noisy but they quietens down after the initial startup. Also consider running a couple of tanks of Super Unleaded through it to clean up the injectors, EGR and Turbo vanes.

Arh...the classic Golf/Octavia problem of sticking calipers. First thing I do my brakes is take them off, clean them up, clean up the sliders (where they stick) and put some brake paste on the sliders and back of the caliper pistons. Do this for all four wheels.

Hello Malc, If you are hearing a 'hiss', it is probably a leak from the EGR or from the turbo - neither of which are terrible fixes to sort out. Can you update your profile to show what your latest car is please? It is also worth getting a code scan done to see if the car is throwing a code. Check out the VCDS owners list to ask somebody closeby to scan your car with VCDS or Odbeleven. We might be able to comment more fully then.

It's important that peeps (inc myself) use the approved VW lubricant for the sunroofs that keeps all the moving parts working well and should hopefully stop the seals from tearing. Maybe also use some rubber and vinyl cleaner to keep the rubber parts happy.

It might well be that there is internal resistance on the metal prongs in the header tank. A new tank isn't expensive, so maybe try that as an option.

Can you get us a code scan of your car, then we can advise?