varaderoguy

That's the one. Yes....it really makes a difference.

What is the CANBUS error logs say then? Can you post them in here for us?

The additional pins will probably go to the motor controller in the bottom of the mirror post for bending in the mirror.

All looks absolutely fine. I would try and see if you can get underneath the car make sure there are no weeping from the coolant pump to make sure you aren't loosing it from there.

Ladies and Gents; In terms of used car prices, please note that all MK3's are going for silly prices at the moment. 10k for a high mileage Scout does seem high, but not terrible. It really depends on what is has on it in terms of options. Firstly, I would probably suggest you look for a Scout 184 if you can; they are a better bet (and better spec'd). IF you can stretch to 13k, then take a look at this 65k mile Scout - https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202107124927406?

I suspect you have a VRS with a 6 speed DQ250 box; so it is generally recommended that if you up the performance of the engine, then it is worth also getting bespoke firmware onto the gearbox. I would recommend you go and speak with the folks from Darkside Developments who are specialists in tuning VAG Diesels. Depending on your budget, you can expect an easy 200bhp from a simple remap, but generally anymore than 220bhp involves component upgrades and deep pockets.

Seriously - the SKODA Garage had to check this out - they should know this stuff. Be really careful, because there are various standards all very similarly named: Your garage should be utilising G12++ or G12evo as a direct replacement for G13 coolant and not just plain G12.

kopacek is fine although at the moment, they are not sending anything heavier than 2kgs to the England and Scotland. For heavier parts, I would recommend theskodashop.co.uk - Horton Skoda - or speak directly with Matt in their parts department - who can easily get all parts for you in terms of accessories.

Just to ask - what year is your VRS? If its 2013-2017 (non-facelifted), you could be experiencing issues with lose of coolant due to either a failing waterpump (check to see if there is any weeping coming from the pump itself) - or a coolant tank cap failure. The error message seems to be related though to a faulty shut-off valve for the coolant (which I think regulates the coolant level to the engine, so a serious issue) - see more here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/P1888 In terms of coolant itself, G13 is retired as a standard - your direct replacement is G12evo or G12++ coolant. Don't use any other coolant as it will cause you issues.

Don't forget to tag @pab567 otherwise we won't be able to assist.

I would also add that if you also chuck in the Module 44 Driving Mode mod to make it direct drive acceleration instead of time based acceleration then it will be an even smoother drive....just my 5 pence worth. I've just done it on my DQ250 Boxed VRS and it now drives like a dream. I also had done the DSG recalibration (the dealer did it) but now I know how to do it at home!

That is because Superskoda has become http://www.kopacek.com/

Cars that are ULEZ compliant - the cheapest one seems to be this nice looking Octavia SE 4x4 150. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202107165109030 There is also a nice high mileage ULEZ Scout (rare cars) also in white in basic 184 spec- https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202106254232346

I wanted to add in my experience about the Module 44 mod. It would be no small thing to say that this change to the accelerator pedal profile - has transformed our small fleet of cars. Its turned a power jerking Fabia (105bhp) in a smooth power delivery of lovelyness. Our Octavia VRS has stopped fighting the DSG DQ250 gearbox and power delivery is lovely and smooth and I am hoping that on my Octavia Scout - that this will solve the kick-down pause problem too. Why do Skoda have this timebased profile enabled?? It madning.

So - I thought I would provide an update. Finally, after 3 weeks with the Crossclimate+ tyres, they are beginning to bed in and in my mind, beginning to make sense. Checked the tyre pressures again today - they were all over the shot - one was down at 34, the others were at 35, 33 , 32 - mental. These tyres on the VRS do not like running at standard pressures - I am running them on 38psi which seems to be a compromise between performance and comfort (and not shaking the car apart). With the oil overfill issue resolved on the engine (that's where the poor fuel economy came from), I'm back to normal mpg that I had on the Bridgestone's. Happy days. The car went back to WES for another go at the steering geometry - this is now all sorted. I have a car that steers straight.

Arh....I know the very problem. The same problem is on our 2017 Skoda Fabia with a 1.2l engine 108bhp which I have fixed (or made less jerky). Two areas of investigation: 1) Make sure the throttle pedal is working correctly and not producing any errors on the CANBUS system. They can occasionally fail causing jerky throttle responses. 2) The high revs from the off - is the anti-stall function kicking in. It's a pain but I haven't as yet seen a way to dial it out. 3) Follow this suggestion to improve throttle response on the car - works on Octavia's, Superbs and Fabia's. Go to adaptations (under 44 - steering Assist) and search ‘driving' Under “Driving profile switchover’ as std it will be: “Incremental: controlled over time” 44 - driver profile switchover Change this to: “Direct: controlled over threshold value” 44 direct contolled What you will now have is more ‘normal’ throttle pedal.

You will find that cars up to 2016 TDI 150 Engines came with 20ukp roadtax.

Depends on the age - (for 2013 to 2016/7) if you go for a SE-L and above spec, they generally come with Bi-Xenon headlights with AFS (although they don't always). Most VRS models come with Xenon headlights. If you have a 2017-2020 model, then LED's were standard on high-end models (SE-L and above). Depends on mileage - if you do a few miles/kms, then go for a 2.0 TSI engine - 190bhp version. If you do lots of miles, go for a 2.0 TDI (184bhp model). The 150bhp is a bit gutless (unless you have a mild driving style). They all come with manual 6 speed gearboxes up to 2016/7. For cars between 2013 and 2017/8, they come with a 6 speed DQ250 box - 2018-2020 comes with a 7 speed DQ381 box (better option).

Dear all, I think I ended this thread very prematurely. I was in a bad place with the VRS (and hence it got put up for sale and I locked the posting), but what a difference of two weeks makes: 1) Since we last spoke, the car has been back to West End Skoda in Edinburgh twice to get the steering geometry sorted. First time, the car's steering geometry was massively out. The second visit corrected the steering geometry, so we now have a car that is steering straight and true. The Michelin CrossClimate+ tyres have bedded in and now seem to be running well on the car at 38psi. 2) The car's MPG after an oil change (at WES), went through the floor. I went from 50mpg down to 35mpg. The car seemed to run really hot. I was convinced that the oil was not right. The oil was standard Longlife LE3 VW 504/507 oil. To change the oil, I have an oil sucker. The CUNA TDI engine (184bhp) engine uses 4.7l of oil (with an oil filter). I was convinced the oil was bad. When I mean bad, the oil that came out was severely burnt (after 500miles). It smelt like a burnt barbecue and the oil was literally smoking after you had driven. Not good. The oil temperature got to 112C - too hot. The solution was worrying and simple: the car was overfilled by the garage (by about 300 - 400ml). If you look at the dip-stick, the top mark of the dip-stick shows oil level at the top of the dip-stick marker. What I didn't see until I checked it today - was the skinny part of the dipstick just above dipstick marker was wet with oil. Basically, the engine having too much oil was causing it to cavitate. The oil was pressurised - the engine used more fuel to get past the overly pressured engine block which caused excess heat. I have a theory on how this happened which I need to explore with the garage first. I removed 4.4l of oil and replaced it with 4l of new oil. The Engine is now transformed. I am now back to 48-50mpg. 3) To get over the glitchy power delivery, I have implemented the Audi power delivery mod on Module 44 (Steering module). Basically, the steering module looks after the throttle pedal. Did you know that all Skoda/VW/Seat cars have a time based power delivery mechanism as opposed the Audi Direct Input method (ie what you press - directly correlates to the power of the engine). Its no small thing to say that this has transformed the performance of the car - the engine has stopped fighting the gearbox; it is now wonderful to drive. My husband has gone from hating the car to loving it. I now have a really good VRS.....the loving relationship is back....I'm now loving it again.

It's not great. Coolant change is reqd every 5 years. But that coolant definitely looks browny red.....

You have selected Consumption as opposed to AVG Consumption. One flick up on the right selector control on the steering wheel. Easy mistake.

Good luck. Hope it is sorted soon.

Yes, if coolant is getting into the engine, then you will get prompts to change the oil quite quickly due to contamination.

At a guess, I think you may have had two of the issues crop up together. The Silica Bag is known to let go after a period of time (my 3.5 year old VRS was about to let go on its bag but caught it in time) and the water pumps do go. What I think you are seeing is Silica mixing with the coolant in the header tank making it a dirty sludgy brown colour and it is either the water pump letting go (symptoms are sudden overheating) or the coolant pressure cap failing. If the coolant colour is yellowish then I agree with @dieselV6 that coolant and oil is mixing and you have a gasket going. Either way get it seen to asap and minimise driving if you can. Car is not happy.

Bad news. That's the Silica bag gone south then..... definitely new heat exchanger and water pump.