varaderoguy

Firstly - really important this; when you spill Ad-Blue, You must wash it off ASAP otherwise it will eat your bodywork alive!!!!. This includes the fuel overflow area (otherwise it will eat the suspension). Urea / Ammonia - nasty stuff. Secondly, a number of local garages including my own in the Scottish Borders have now started providing Ad-Blue filling pumps for cars - 0.87p per litre - which is cheaper than the bottled stuff and I didn't spill a drop. £5.64 filled my car from 1500 miles ad-blue range - at about 7litres worth (for a 10l tank). Handy, cheap and I don't need to do it for another 6k miles. Happy days.

Nothing. It's all good. My dealer is just more interested in things I end up enabling

For a 2013 car, there is absolutely none unless the owner has put in a tracker onto the car.

Please feel free to read up on Skoda Connect Lite - https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/skoda-connect-lite It has most of the functions of the full Skoda Connect - Connect Care. It does also have driving analytics.

Not the same thing. ODBEleven is a diagnosis tool not a system monitor tool. Re:VW dongle. It works with any VAG car from 2012 onwards. You should be safe. Get the dongle, plug it into your ODBC port, start you car, download and run Skoda Connect Lite and connect to the Bluetooth dongle. You will need the passcode on the side of the dongle. Job done.

Sounds like one of two areas: 1) Check there are no leaks around the water pump - 2013-2017 cars have weak water pumps that are known to fail. 2) Check the cap on the top of the coolant expansion tank - these are also known to fail in random ways. When you stop the car or you have placed extra stress into the car, the coolant gets hots. When you stop the car, the excess heat will rise to a high point - this being the coolant header tank. The extra pressure maybe just enough to open a faulty cap and it leaks via the overflow on the side of the header tank.

Either a faulty sensor or there is a configuration glitch not to warn on empty

You should get a warning if the fluid runs low. It might be a blockage but highly unlikely. Make sure you use a good concentration of screen wash (especially in hard water areas) too.

Yes, so try just pushing the window down (press hold down) and bring it up and hold again. If it won't come up properly, you might either have a failed position sensor or you have a failing window motor.

You know your own car. Try to get an ODBC / CANBUS scan to see if there are any reported errors. If there are no errors then can you check things like oil level or coolant level to make sure there are no leaks that will cause the engine to reduce power. Failing that, it's Italian Tuning time. If you use Supermarket fuel, can you go and fill up with some Super Diesel from Esso/BP/Shell etc and keep the revs nice and high for a good fast long run (80 to 100 miles). You might have symptoms of a slightly blocked DPF filter. I personally recommend use an appropriate amount of Cetane Improver which keeps the car's performance sparkly, cleans the EGR and DPF. My favourite is Hydra International's Diesel Power Blaster https://www.hydra-int.com/diesel-power-blast.html

For both front and back??? 🥺 You might have a dead washer fluid pump then. Get an CANBUS scan and see if there are any errors and please report back.

Almost.... depending on the battery voltage, auto Stop/start will still work when the HVAC system is operational but the AC compressor will switch off (leaving fans only).

That will be the problem then. Two areas to check: 1) get a hoover and clean out the ultrasound sensors above the drivers head (a common issues on the MK2's and it's effected some of my MK3's as well). Dust. 2) The windows maybe not aligned properly so the car doesn't know if the car is sealed or not. You know this because of a rapid continuous flashing from the driver side door. Press all 4 windows down and press and hold down for 10 secs. Now pull up all 4 windows and hold the switch in the up position for 10 secs..... Usually No2 happens when the battery is disconnected.

Actually, part of the answer is to get a Skoda Connect Lite Dongle - you can either pay the Skoda Tax of 43ukp or you can pay a fiver from eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-VW-Volkswagen-Data-Plug-Connectivitiy-Connect-Bluetooth-Smartphone-OBD-/274299034260 That at least get the car to make bookings for you based on some of the features of Skoda Connect.

Then that is a place I would start looking at. Potentially an intermittent fault with the Immobiliser killing the power to the engine. What is the full error message/number?

Apologies. Yes, it's a USB type C for the MK4's for the head unit connection, so yes a USB type C to Type C connector is needed.

Firstly, you need a smart phone. It can either be an Apple iOS8 and above or Android 7 or above smartphone. Mirrorlink is actually a common protocol that allows for screen data that you see on your phone to be displayed on your car screen. On top of Mirrorlink, there is Apple Carplay and Android Auto which are software overlays to display car centric information onto your car screen. Typically if you have a MK4, then you can do Apple Carplay wirelessly from the get-go and you will need the latest MIB firmware (I think it is 1802 and above) to get Android Auto Wireless to work. If the wireless options don't work, then you need a USB A to USB C connector to plug between your phone and the USB socket in the mobile phone holder area in the centre of the console.

All normal behavour. I know that people think that all warning lights should go out, but the EPC light is associated with the performance of the engine - and as you didn't have your engine running, it stayed lit. In terms of stop/start, pre: 2017, you could code out auto/stop/start, but post 2017, VW have stopped you from doing that....press the (A) button in the middle of the console each time I'm afraid.

It could just be a selector motor in the back of the central console that has failed; with an CANBUS Scan we could confirm this (as this fault would be reported).

Yes - general rule of VW cars - if you start getting random error messages, it will be because of low battery situations. The CANBUS network cannot operate in low battery situations, so get the battery topped up. This is what I use - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233409015194 to keep my battery nicely charged.

Simple answer: 0252 is latest firmware and if you want Mirrorlink, you will need an FeC code from your Skoda dealer to enable it.

I think your zip file maybe corrupted in that case; might I suggest you delete it and get a new version from @pab567 if you are able.

There are rules for use with KESSY - which a lot of folk forget (and are not aware). 1) Make sure that you replace the batteries every 6 months with KESSY - the CR2025 batteries don't generally hold out that long and will give you no-notice of failure. 2) Make sure that you have a car faraday pouch for each key to keep them safe and stop them from broadcasting unnecessarily. 3) Make sure you DON'T keep the KESSY keys together - as they will needlessly waste electrical radio energy (and flatten the batteries even quicker).

@WayTooTall - I would also phone all of the local Skoda and VW dealers in the area; make them aware as well. If you can also find the VIN, make sure the Police have that number and that the VIN is registered in the national lost/stolen database. Finally, phone up Skoda Customer Services and ask them to put a marker on the VIN to state it is lost/stolen in case anybody trying to register it.

I think you need a particular BCM to do that, but @SashaGrace will confirm this.