VRS Burning oil

[hammer32]

Mine goes in for the breather fix this Thursday. Currently using 0.5 litres of oil to cover less than 500 miles. I will report back once I have had a chance to clock up some miles after the 'fix'.

Mine goes in next Monday for the new breather, and mine is using about the same as yours, I will report back as well.

[Jabozuma]

As my breather fix didn't work my car is booked in again for more work. I today contacted trading standards and have typed up a letter as advised with a copy to the dealer stating my intentions to give them one last attempt to rectify the problem. Skoda uk are fully aware that if this doesn't work then i will be rejecting the car for refund or replacement. The dealer has no idea what the next step is but skoda will be contacting their technical department who will contact the dealer.

Skoda Customer services did mention that they had a call earlier from a customer who had the same breather fix and after 1500 miles he hadn't used any oil. Anyone on here?

It seems to be a hit and mix, they are just following a path of least costs, at the expense of your time, costs and undue hardship.

Tell them VAG's been rolling out new engines as of Sep 2012 (CTHE http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/254584-rear-weights-removed/page__st__60#entry2997931 ) and they have to replace it with that one if they are unable to fix the problem otherwise.

Unless you are willing to be a Guinea Pig for them testing which "fix" actually works and have endless amount of time and patience...

[arnold]

Lets hope the new CTHE engine is better than the old unit then.

[Jabozuma]

I will keep up reporting. Doing a first 100miles review/report today:)

[tonyfvrs]

Have just had 2 year service and booked in for oil test. Told 'mods are available and will be fitted, we have had this issue with a few vRS's'.

Tony

[Jabozuma]

Review - have a look please http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/255374-jabos-new-fabia-vrs-with-pictures/#entry2998499

[willie5094]

Mine goes in for the breather fix this Thursday. Currently using 0.5 litres of oil to cover less than 500 miles. I will report back once I have had a chance to clock up some miles after the 'fix'.

How the do you know that you are using 0.5 litres of oil, is that not very precise.

[Big Sheep]

How the do you know that you are using 0.5 litres of oil, is that not very precise.

I know!!!

I drive a regular mileage each week commuting to work on reasonably clear roads. At my current consumption rate I know I need to start checking oil level after 450 miles which is roughly every 2 weeks. I carry a measured quantity of 0.5 litres of oil in the car and top-up when oil drops to the same level every time. The oil level will be 3/4 of the way up the hatched portion of the dip stick after a top-up. Oil temperature is always around 90 degrees and I wait 3 or 4 minutes before dipping. This routine has been carried out since my first service. Before that all I knew was that I had needed 7 litres over 9,000 miles. My oil consumption has got worse over the last couple of months.

[Jabozuma]

I know!!!

I drive a regular mileage each week commuting to work on reasonably clear roads. At my current consumption rate I know I need to start checking oil level after 450 miles which is roughly every 2 weeks. I carry a measured quantity of 0.5 litres of oil in the car and top-up when oil drops to the same level every time. The oil level will be 3/4 of the way up the hatched portion of the dip stick after a top-up. Oil temperature is always around 90 degrees and I wait 3 or 4 minutes before dipping. This routine has been carried out since my first service. Before that all I knew was that I had needed 7 litres over 9,000 miles. My oil consumption has got worse over the last couple of months.

YOu need to wait few hours after the engine was switched off to check oil. 4-5 minutes is not enough time for all the oil to go down into the sump from valve train and oil sepration pathways in the oil breather system. Do it in the morning before you start the car, the best method really as oil doesn't change in volume significantly with temperature.

[Panosm]

YOu need to wait few hours after the engine was switched off to check oil. 4-5 minutes is not enough time for all the oil to go down into the sump from valve train and oil sepration pathways in the oil breather system. Do it in the morning before you start the car, the best method really as oil doesn't change in volume significantly with temperature.

sry, don't not know where you got that info for the 1.4 tsi.

While it is true for 1.2 to check the oil when cold, you'd have to run the 1.4 tsi for a while to get the oil up to temperature and then wait 10min or so to check it. Not a few hours... Time to open the owners manual at page 164 and have a look.

[Jabozuma]

sry, don't not know where you got that info for the 1.4 tsi.

While it is true for 1.2 to check the oil when cold, you'd have to run the 1.4 tsi for a while to get the oil up to temperature and then wait 10min or so to check it. Not a few hours... Time to open the owners manual at page 164 and have a look.

You are right, page 145 in my manual says just that I stand corrected then! I am not sure where did I take that info from but made sense to me at the time... I'd wait 1hr personally if I could. In any case, if one waits the same amount time each time one checks it the levels will be consistent as the same amount of oil will be dripped back to the sump

[Big Sheep]

With this engine you have to check the oil when hot. Whether you wait 5 minutes or 10 minutes is up to you, but as Jabozuma says, consistency is the key if you are monitoring oil consumption.

[OzFabia]

You have to wait at least five minutes because it's so bloody hot under that bonnet! Even then I need to hold the dipstick handle loosely and wipe the oil off with paper towel folded in half... At least, I know the oil is properly warmed up.

[James I]

OK, I have spoken with SUK today, as I had a few questions.

First was what are the chances of the CTHE engine being retro fitted if my car needs a new engine? , Answer, NO, this engine will only be fitted to 2013 manufactured cars.

Second was if you are making oil ring replacement, or breather pipe mods etc, what is the exact issue with the CAVE engine you are trying to fix? Answer, we don't know what the issue is exactly and just do as instructed by Skoda/VAG.

So in all not many answers and not so helpful, but I have been assured anybody with issues will get a resolution but a procedure has to be followed and adhered to, I am now at the final stage and if my car uses excessive oil on the next 189.6 mile test then a new engine will be sent for fitting, a CAVE unit.

So I am sure I will be happy with the replacement engine (oil use dependant) as I do like the car and will probably keep it at the end of the three years.

[Brian69]

Hope you get sorted James. It is a great little car, excessive oil consumption aside.

Mine has been fine (touch wood), but reading other people's experiences makes me paranoid . Nearly soiled myself when I heard the dashboard 'ping' the other night in case it was the oil light - it was only to let me know temperature had dropped to 4 degrees.

[James I]

Hope you get sorted James. It is a great little car, excessive oil consumption aside.

Mine has been fine (touch wood), but reading other people's experiences makes me paranoid . Nearly soiled myself when I heard the dashboard 'ping' the other night in case it was the oil light - it was only to let me know temperature had dropped to 4 degrees.

I really can't fault the Fabia other than the obvious, it is a safe to and from work car for the wife and it is a stress buster for me, I am hoping to get it on a track day soon, but should get the engine issues sorted first, it has done about 5,000 miles now and is 18 months old.

I also like the Yeti but that has done 60k in 15 months, so I am often happy to park it for the weekend!

[Evil Miyagi]

Well mine is going "well"

Can't wait to get shut...

[James I]

You have had your fair share of troubles, I am sure the Raleigh bike you get next will be less troublesome...

Only joking, it will be interesting to meet the noob who appears on here with a white vrs that has loads of issues and starts all the same threads again.

I am sure it will be resold before any further repairs are carried out.

[Jabozuma]

James, my vRS (see review theead in my sig) already HAS that engine so they are bull$hitting You saying that it will be fitted in2013 or genuinely have no clue.

[Jabozuma]

Sweet Lord, misfires as well?!?! Start stomping your feet man and get that car returned to Skoda in return for a working product you were right to expect.

All that crap about the procedure is simply a delaying tactic designed to exhaust the customer, wear him out in hope he will sell or accept the fact it drinks oil. Tell to shove their procedures, you are not their test dummy to try different fixes, may e, just maybe one will work and we will not have to change the engine...

Either a new car or CHTE engine, currently in production. They do not produce CAVE any more !

[James I]

I really think the guys who answer the phone at SUK are kept in the dark about the real issue or they are sworn to secrecy, either way no straight answers.

Is your car not a MY013? My Yeti was a MY012 built in August 2011, the date change is mid year I think.

[philhoward]

Mine's a Mid-2012 (June-ish) build and CAVE engine..but yes - MY2013 starts mid-year.

[OzFabia]

A few questions...

1. How much oil has been used between the top and, say, halfway up the cross-hatched section of the dipstick?

2. Would you top up at that point or let it get a little lower?

Yes, I have used some oil. I'm on around 1700km from new, and the level appears to be have gone from the top of the cross-hatched section to the halfway point. Which brings me to...

3. Is it worth doing an oil change already? (or should I have done it well before this?)

[Jabozuma]

A few questions...

1. How much oil has been used between the top and, say, halfway up the cross-hatched section of the dipstick?

2. Would you top up at that point or let it get a little lower?

Yes, I have used some oil. I'm on around 1700km from new, and the level appears to be have gone from the top of the cross-hatched section to the halfway point. Which brings me to...

3. Is it worth doing an oil change already? (or should I have done it well before this?)

Good question!

I would like to drop my oil and change the filter around 1-2k miles to get all that rubbish from increasing the "tolerances" within the engine . I am also wondering whether to go for 5W40 ?

Edited 8 November, 2012 by Jabozuma

[James I]

Why? Just a waste of money, oil will last a long time, some Lexus go for 120,000 on the oil in them, my Yeti does about 20k on the same oil, as for the fabia it gets a regular top up so like changing without draining it!

I suppose it is your personal choice but there is no need.