MS autos, an independent VAG place. They are a knowledgeable bunch with a lot of experience as they rebuild engines too. I have checked for leaks and cant find any which is good as know that can be a common issue after replacement if not done correctly. My only concern is that there does appear to be a ring of sealant on the perimeter  of the cover plate visible on the outside, where it has squashed out from being clamped down, and hope there's none on the inside that then gets into the sump / engine. 

However as I have always said - even putting the number of failures into the context of the total number of engines built - if you are the unlucky owner facing a 5K bill without goodwill - that is no consolation to you for what is after-all a design issue.

However as I have always said - even putting the number of failures into the context of the total number of engines built - if you are the unlucky owner facing a 5K bill without goodwill - that is no consolation to you for what is after-all a design issue.

 

The 5k bill though is only if you take it back to a main dealer. If my tensioner goes pop on startup it will not be being recovered to a main dealer! A cam chain tensioner failure on a relatives Audi resulted in a 2k bill from an independent garage.

 

I've had a quote from a local VAG specialist and I'm looking at £450 to fit the revised part. However that includes the tensioner, new chain and guide rails. In my mind it's just the same as doing a cam belt change, albeit a little more expensive.

 

So it's either a £450 'peace of mind' expense or a 'try your luck and worst case' £2k expense.....

£450 is a good price to include the chain and rails too, i'd go with that. 

The 5k bill though is only if you take it back to a main dealer. If my tensioner goes pop on startup it will not be being recovered to a main dealer! A cam chain tensioner failure on a relatives Audi resulted in a 2k bill from an independent garage.

 

I've had a quote from a local VAG specialist and I'm looking at £450 to fit the revised part. However that includes the tensioner, new chain and guide rails. In my mind it's just the same as doing a cam belt change, albeit a little more expensive.

 

So it's either a £450 'peace of mind' expense or a 'try your luck and worst case' £2k expense.....

To be honest I don't think you are right in saying that £2k is the worst case unless you mean swapping the engine out of a scrapped car - a valid option but with its own risks. The cost of a reconditioned head was about £2K and a new head was just silly money, £3,600, IIRC plus labour.

Right I need some advice as you may have seen my previous posts Iv had a Ba#%#rd with skoda, my car is currantly at a garage having the work carrierd out, the mechanic is asking if I want to go down the route of changing the Pistons, Iv seen the them my self and can't say there is any major damage cracks or dinks in them are our car prone to burning oil after this work has been carried out should I say yes do it or will it be ok on past experience ??

Thanks guys

 

Hi

Sad to report that I am also dealing with Skoda re my parents Yeti 1.8 Tsi. 

Briefly it's 5 years old bought with FDSH low mileage and the engine is now locked.

I'm dealing with a lovely lady who seems to be working quite hard for me. The first goodwill offer from Skoda UK was 25% which she quickly upped to 35% of the total repair costs. 

Bit more pressure and this has been increased to 55%. Which would still leave us a bill of nearly £3000.

I'm waiting to hear back from them about a further Regulation I believe they have failed on.

Will keep you informed.

Lexie

Any reported similar problems with the 1.4 ,or are they belt driven

I've bite the bullet and booked my 2010 VRS in to have the revised tensioner fitted along with the guide rails, new chain and oil seal. I've gone with a VAG specialist that has many good reviews on the internet from various VAG forum users. Price quoted is £850. This is a worst case scenario and may be slightly cheaper. He mentioned changing something on mine at the top of the engine because it's an early one which added £115, on the later ones he said this didn't need changing but its escaped my mind as to exactly what it was. They are also changing the auxiliary belt as well as Skoda advised on its last service that this was due a change due to age/mileage.

 

He said there are actually 2 chains in place, the 2nd drives the oil pump but they don't touch this one, is that right?

 

Good price??

 

Reason for this is my car is now on 55k. I plan to keep it for another 2 years at which point it will be on 105k. It's a 2010 so presumably the first tensioner and I'm basically treating it as a very expensive cam belt/water replacement that you would do with any other car covering 25k a year.

Hi

Sad to report that I am also dealing with Skoda re my parents Yeti 1.8 Tsi. 

Briefly it's 5 years old bought with FDSH low mileage and the engine is now locked.

I'm dealing with a lovely lady who seems to be working quite hard for me. The first goodwill offer from Skoda UK was 25% which she quickly upped to 35% of the total repair costs. 

Bit more pressure and this has been increased to 55%. Which would still leave us a bill of nearly £3000.

I'm waiting to hear back from them about a further Regulation I believe they have failed on.

Will keep you informed.

Lexie

Well we've reached a reasonable compromise where Skoda Uk will put in a total of 50%, the dealership 15% and we pay the remaining 35% of the total cost of repairs/engine replacement. The dealership has also waived the cost of diagnostics and extra testing. Cost to us now less than £2000.

Check out the Sales of Goods Act, Consumer Rights Act, even Citizens Advice Bureau to find out what you are entitled to so you can have a polite reasoned 'argument'. Be aware that there is a code of conduct that Skoda dealerships have to adhere to - there should be a copy in the reception/ask for one. If the dealer doesn't offer any assistance contact Skoda UK customer services and put your case to them. 

Good luck

Lexie

I've bite the bullet and booked my 2010 VRS in to have the revised tensioner fitted along with the guide rails, new chain and oil seal. I've gone with a VAG specialist that has many good reviews on the internet from various VAG forum users. Price quoted is £850. This is a worst case scenario and may be slightly cheaper. He mentioned changing something on mine at the top of the engine because it's an early one which added £115, on the later ones he said this didn't need changing but its escaped my mind as to exactly what it was. They are also changing the auxiliary belt as well as Skoda advised on its last service that this was due a change due to age/mileage.

 

He said there are actually 2 chains in place, the 2nd drives the oil pump but they don't touch this one, is that right?

 

Good price??

 

Reason for this is my car is now on 55k. I plan to keep it for another 2 years at which point it will be on 105k. It's a 2010 so presumably the first tensioner and I'm basically treating it as a very expensive cam belt/water replacement that you would do with any other car covering 25k a year.

 

I've just done the same thing done with my Jan 2010 VRS as it was starting to rattle. I had it done at Autotechnica in Hull who are a VAG specialist. I had the tensioner, chain, guides and the cam bridge (which I think is what your guy is referring to) as well as all relevant seals etc for just over £600. The car is much more quiet to drive, and I don't know if I'm imagining it or not but seems a lot more responsive than before. I'd decided I couldn't leave it any longer as I felt like I was driving a ticking time bomb which was impacting on my enjoyment of the car.

£600 is an excellent price for all those parts plus fitting.

£600 is an excellent price for all those parts plus fitting.

That's the beauty of living in the county of good value!

I've just done the same thing done with my Jan 2010 VRS as it was starting to rattle. I had it done at Autotechnica in Hull who are a VAG specialist. I had the tensioner, chain, guides and the cam bridge (which I think is what your guy is referring to) as well as all relevant seals etc for just over £600. The car is much more quiet to drive, and I don't know if I'm imagining it or not but seems a lot more responsive than before. I'd decided I couldn't leave it any longer as I felt like I was driving a ticking time bomb which was impacting on my enjoyment of the car.

 

That is cheap. I can't find any VAG specialists round here that will do it for that!

 

I double checked the extra part and its the bearing carrier apparently.

 

When was the rattle evident on yours then? Could you hear it from inside the car??

Do any warrenty companies cover for the engine failure? I've got a new car on order for March and trading my car in and i'm pretty sure i heard a rattle from my car tonight. Noticed my car has been taking a few more turns to start, please don't tell me that is the start of it?

In regard to the engine issues the octavia, specifically looking at an 09/59 plate..how much be factored in to replace / sort out these potential issues with the engine going caput..

what exactly needs changing.. and rough cost...

I'm probably looking at going private so want to factor in price within any negotiations if the above hasn't been done.

I'd budget 300-800 depending on whether needs chain too or just tensioner.

I'd budget 300-800 depending on whether needs chain too or just tensioner.

Do any warrenty companies cover for the engine failure? I've got a new car on order for March and trading my car in and i'm pretty sure i heard a rattle from my car tonight. Noticed my car has been taking a few more turns to start, please don't tell me that is the start of it?

Don't know about warranty companies but I'd guess that they do - check the wording. 

One of the first indications of the issue was the taking a few more turns to start. The engine light came on on the second drive after that, then it all went wrong. 

I strongly recommend you get the car to a garage as soon as possible to check it out - and tell them of the potential problem if they don't know already. If the engine light comes on Only drive the car to the garage - even better get it towed/recovered.

Despite having the tensioner replaced on the vrs, after a few weeks I'm getting a rattle again but this time only from warm engine, not hot or cold. And only when front of car is downhill (driveway is on slope). Garage who replaced tensioner said could be chain but they did check it when putting new tensioner in. Read a lot of info on the mk6 gti forum and others had same issues, in fact someone replaced a non rattling tensioner for latest one as precaution only for it to rattle! Park nose up I reckon! Must be oil related due to draining out.

Brad, sounds like you're on to summat with that gen 1 oil pump.

Edited 3 November, 201510 yr by blackspaven

Ok please help!!

I've a 10 plate vrs with the tsi engine. Just been told the timing chain stretched and new engine required. £5k for engine plus labour. Can anyone that has had this issue let me how you got it resolved? As I certainly don't have £5k+ sitting about for a new engine.

It's a full skoda service history with 55k miles. I'd love to hear recent results so I'm armed when I speak with skoda UK.

MUch appreciated.

Has the tensioner gone and destroyed the valves etc or has just the chain stretched?

Who told you? Main Dealer? There is a weakness with the tensioner AND the chain, there is a set procedure. Have a look at the start of the thread for the outcomes, but for the record, I got a new engine FOC along with a free service for the hassle and free courtsey car but it took a lot of fighting.

 

Did you buy the car new? Any warranty? How long have you had it?

What's the weakness with the chain exactly? First I've heard.