Had some spare time again so decided to continue the path. First I finished the right front door that was missing a layer on the inner skin of the door, this time tried to run the cables like they normally would - it looks and feels better but man it took time. A proper LEGO. 

 

 

Then took on the trunk lid - I was suprised when I removed the lining, it was quite hollow so I did 2 layers (1st layer STP Aero and 2nd STP Accent Premium) + covered the inner side of the lining with 1 layer of sound absorbing STP Biplast. 

 

 

In addition I did the boot floor with 2 layers as on the trunk lid (forgot to take pictures) + Finally decided to take on the nasty annoying rattle I have had for ages around the glovebox, removing it was very simple - just pop the side cover of the dash and remove four screws from the upper part of the glovebox. Added Tesa textile vibration damping tape everywhere I saw a connection between the glovebox plastic and the dash parts. Result - rattle is gone. 

 

 

Now I have wheel arches and the dials left to do, I will not go crazy with the floor/roof since that is a bit too much work and the car is already superquiet compared to what it was before + the speaker sound quality is at a different level. 

 

Here is a video showing the Superb 3 fully done. Added 50kg to the car weight. 

 

 

Edited 20 July, 20187 yr by Puuriit
Had some typos and added a link to a useful video

Very nice job!!!

what about wind noise from the B pillar and the Windows, the mirrors?

I too had a go at the weekend with the doors.  First thing to note for having a go is removing the switch control panel.  The clips are easy to damage if incorrectly pryed.  You need to press in the clips at the two marked points to prevent snapping under force when trying to lift it out:

The one shown I damaged the rear clip by not understanding this.

 

First was the rear doors.  Now, I dont do this type of thing often and was surprised by what was behind the fascia.   When you look at the videos on youtube  you see cars with large holes in the inner metal skin.  Mine was not at all like that

 

 

A lot of reason for doing this on most cars is that thin plastic sheet vapour barrier which provides no noise isolation.  In my door, its fully sealed.   Also note the speakers have rivets in them making access somewhat less than ideal

With a pair of plyers you can pull out the large plastic seal by gripping on the tab.  On the outerskin was a large deadening sheet:

I coated the whole door skin, including behind the speaker, and notable points around the edges where it was resonant then put the plastic cover back on.   Now, the 'cover the whole area' on the inner made no sense to me.  Tapping around the skin showed points of resonance so I applied just enough to make it sound dull:

 

One the plastic facia, sorry didnt take a photo, I coated the large flat plastic area with silentcoat as I noticed this resonated then used some 4mm dodo sound reducing foam to cover most of it, noting where door mechanism was.  Note that the bottom part where the door pocket/bin is seemed quite close fitting so didnt coat that area.   Reassembled without any problem.

 

The door sounds very dead, noticeably heavy.   It is however hardly changed in the amount of noise from the doors and audio is marginally improved, almost negligible for rear sound

 

Next did the fronts.   These are a lot more difficult.  The points of concern are the 'crash clip' on the top corner of the door and the complexity of the bits inside:

 

In order to get the plastic cover off you need to disconnect the cable in the top left of the image, pull out the white retaining clip from the door next to it.  We unplugged the control in the plastic shown under the door release and pushed through the grommit then shuffled the foam along the door release and slid the grommit and plastic panel along.     Its difficult but gave all the access space to fully line the door.   Again on the inner skin, same principle applied to coat just enough (Its under warranty so obliterating everything in silentcoat doesnt make sense.  Anywhere that sounds hollow apply some

 

Silent coat on the facia:

Then the foam on top, noting that the top part of the door has cable issues in one corner and its close fitting at the bottom.

 

Only did the passenger door as that had a rattle (Loose clip on the kessey module) and could compare.   Door, like the rear is heavy and very dead sounding (Makes it feel like Trumps limo ;-)

 

Speaker sound is marginally improved.  There is still some vibration on the silentcoated door  due to vehicle vibration, not that transmitted through the door.   Noise reduction from passing traffic is marginally reduced at town and 60mph speeds with difficult to tell being a passenger or driver about sound difference.   I didnt at any point think it was more quiet either in the rear or that the untreated drivers door was noticeably noisy which probably goes back to the initial observation that the doors are already fairly well designed to limit sound transfer.

 

So, in a YMMV sort of way I feel that doing the doors is pretty minimal gain.   I still think the greatest source of noise is the wheel wells and, due to the length, the floor pan where vibration causes rumble on rough tarmac.

 

If I was to do this again, I'd be in two minds whether it was worth the effort and cost for the marginal, if not impercetable, gains.  Biggest gain for me was from the rear wheel wells to reduce the P7 noise.

Edited 20 July, 20187 yr by nodigital

50 minutes ago, gigolea said:

Very nice job!!!

what about wind noise from the B pillar and the Windows, the mirrors?

 Noise from the mirrors will always be there and is noticeable.   B pillar Ive not heard anything noticable.   Note that at UK speeds there might be considerably less noise than say at 140/160kph where turbulence and buffeting may play a much larger effect.   B pillar might be significant at those speeds.  Based on experience and observation so far I'm not going to attempt it.

1 hour ago, nodigital said:

Speaker sound is marginally improved. 

 

Did you put only vibration damper inside the door or also a layer of foam on top? I did add a special 10mm sound deadening closed cell foam layer on top of the vibration damper inside the door and this killed everything that was carried by air inside the door (before it was basically the door that was playing the sound, not the speakers) + the full coverage of the inner skin makes a difference since the speaker vibrations go through that part and you want to make it as solid as possible if you are looking for clear and crisp sound. Covering the door card with vibration damper is not necessary, a layer of f.ex. 10mm foam is enough - at least on my car, the card itself is quite solid and does not rattle even if I turn up the volume or drive on rough roads. 

 

Regarding the external noise coming in through the doors - before doing the work I clearly heard the tyre noise of cars driving next to me (especially on the wet road) but now I don't hear it anymore. There probably is some still left but the main source of that noise is now the front side windows and unfortunately, I cannot stick a sheet on that  I would say the most pointless part is doing the hood, this had 0 effect. 

 

1 hour ago, gigolea said:

Very nice job!!!

what about wind noise from the B pillar and the Windows, the mirrors?

 

Thanks, regarding the wind noise - its still there and you cant do much about it since its coming also in through the windows. I also did the B pillars so these are also silent now.

Edited 20 July, 20187 yr by Puuriit
Typo

I am honestly afraid to soundproof my car.

I will probably go Mad about the wind Noise .

I cant Seem to Find double glased / laminated front Windows and that stops me...

On 21/07/2018 at 01:40, gigolea said:

I am honestly afraid to soundproof my car.

I will probably go Mad about the wind Noise .

I cant Seem to Find double glased / laminated front Windows and that stops me...

 

 

There is not actually that much noise coming from the side windows. Sound in your car can play fun tricks with you and might not come from where you think it does. For example there is a long thread about odd noise coming fom the door that was a problem for several people. It ended up to be a loose fuel line and the sound transmitted through door panels and created the feeling that there is something loose inside door.

I myself had a similar experience with B-pillars. I thought that there is sound coming from rear windows and rear part of the car but instead it came from the upper part of B-pillars. I still have to use TEROSON PU 9500 foam to finish my pillars upper parts but doing as much I could eliminated most of the "rear window" and wind noise. 

 

If you have lots of wind noise, then you must check if your door rummer seals are tight enough. I have heared some people who have needed to readjust doors to get the wind sound to disapear. I believe @JackySi wrote also about it in this thread.

 

I got one idea about front windows with extra sound lamination. They have been on the market for long enough so you can try to ask companies who change car windows. Maybe they already have them available.

On 20/07/2018 at 22:23, nodigital said:

I coated the whole door skin, including behind the speaker, and notable points around the edges where it was resonant then put the plastic cover back on.   Now, the 'cover the whole area' on the inner made no sense to me.  Tapping around the skin showed points of resonance so I applied just enough to make it sound dull:

 

One the plastic facia, sorry didnt take a photo, I coated the large flat plastic area with silentcoat as I noticed this resonated then used some 4mm dodo sound reducing foam to cover most of it, noting where door mechanism was.  Note that the bottom part where the door pocket/bin is seemed quite close fitting so didnt coat that area.   Reassembled without any problem.

 

Speaker sound is marginally improved.  There is still some vibration on the silentcoated door  due to vehicle vibration, not that transmitted through the door.   Noise reduction from passing traffic is marginally reduced at town and 60mph speeds with difficult to tell being a passenger or driver about sound difference.   I didnt at any point think it was more quiet either in the rear or that the untreated drivers door was noticeably noisy which probably goes back to the initial observation that the doors are already fairly well designed to limit sound transfer.

 

So, in a YMMV sort of way I feel that doing the doors is pretty minimal gain.   I still think the greatest source of noise is the wheel wells and, due to the length, the floor pan where vibration causes rumble on rough tarmac.

 

If I was to do this again, I'd be in two minds whether it was worth the effort and cost for the marginal, if not impercetable, gains.  Biggest gain for me was from the rear wheel wells to reduce the P7 noise.

 

As @Puuriit, doing full cover on door inner metal panel if for lessening vibration coming from speaker so that speaker could move air as it is meant to be not moving some air and lots of panel.

It is also done in full to make door panel fully sealed so that as little as possible air can come out (exept draining holes). That is the reason why one should cover also the covers panels in full. Those plastic covers play with sound and therefore reduce the sound quality that could be gained. Also every part around speaker should be covered with vibration mat for best music quality gain

And you will not gain much quality imporovement from rear speakers because they are utmos crap.

 

Covering as much as inside door panel as possible is also important because vibration mats do not only act as a vibration deadener but they also isolate sound. Right now you did not get the best result for that.

And there are still high frequency noises that need to be dealt with. Vibration mats work well with vibrations and low frequenzy noises but are pretty useless with high levels. If I aint mistaken, then they work up to 400 Hz? For that it is wise to add sound absorber to the interior plastic panel as it eliminates high frequency noises. 4mm dodo was a good thing but not the best option IMHO.

 

But good work and keep it up! If you run Pirelli's, then front floor is your main concerne. 

 

 

 

On 22/07/2018 at 10:51, alf.onso said:

 

 

There is not actually that much noise coming from the side windows. Sound in your car can play fun tricks with you and might not come from where you think it does. For example there is a long thread about odd noise coming fom the door that was a problem for several people. It ended up to be a loose fuel line and the sound transmitted through door panels and created the feeling that there is something loose inside door.

I myself had a similar experience with B-pillars. I thought that there is sound coming from rear windows and rear part of the car but instead it came from the upper part of B-pillars. I still have to use TEROSON PU 9500 foam to finish my pillars upper parts but doing as much I could eliminated most of the "rear window" and wind noise. 

 

If you have lots of wind noise, then you must check if your door rummer seals are tight enough. I have heared some people who have needed to readjust doors to get the wind sound to disapear. I believe @JackySi wrote also about it in this thread.

 

I got one idea about front windows with extra sound lamination. They have been on the market for long enough so you can try to ask companies who change car windows. Maybe they already have them available.

Thank a lot,

I found someone experienced to sound insolate my car. Work starts on thuesday

I will “foam up” the B pillar as you suggest.

Again, thanks!

Another Superb's plastic noise got silenced today. 

It took me quite some time to understand where the noise was coming and it ended up coming from rear trash bin. 

 

Used TESA texile tape.

I swear, one roll of it should come with every Superb as a standard equipment. 

 

 

 

 

Took on the rear sides and arches this weekend. Removal of the liner was quite easy - one bolt on the floor, one behind the shopping bag hook + the two plastic hooks that are on the side walls by the wheel arches pop out (will try to make visualized insturctions). 

 

Though there was some factory noise insulation present it was clearly not enough. Stripped it all out and did a multilayer damping/insulation again. I also added damper to the subwoofer box since it didn't feel very solid. The result - noticeably less road/tyre noise from the rear + the subwoofer is now performing better/clearer (added some extra damper around the subwoofer area). took 3 hours in total to do both sides. 

 

This is before:

 

And after:

 

Did you cover subwoofer from the other side aswell? I have one 2mm silent coat sheet left, I'll try to cover the subwoofer as you did.

29 minutes ago, Paikesejanku said:

Did you cover subwoofer from the other side aswell? I have one 2mm silent coat sheet left, I'll try to cover the subwoofer as you did.

 

Yes, covered it from three sides actually - the ones which did not feel very solid. 

I have also a plan to add some vibration mats to subwoofer. When I first saw it, I noticed right away that it is thin plastic that can't have optimum performance.

Fast work, covered trunk side of the SUB with 2mm Silent Coat. Outcome - subwoofer sound changed punchier, not so much muddy low frequency boom in backseat. I had to increase subwoofer volume to get same amount  bass. 

Found autohifi site where you can see how they have done noise insulation for different Škoda models: https://www.ahifi.cz/autohifi-montaze-do-vozidel-skoda/

 

1 hour ago, Paikesejanku said:

Found autohifi site where you can see how they have done noise insulation for different Škoda models: https://www.ahifi.cz/autohifi-montaze-do-vozidel-skoda/

 

 

Very helpful and insightful :=). Checked those Audi's bit and others the stock insulation also helps getting perspective

I installed anti-vibration and noise insulation mats on bonnet, doors, pillar (B I think, between rear/front doors) and trunk (just floor, didn't take it all apart yet) the noise difference is small at this stage. But the sound from speakers is MUCH better. Also closing doors feels like Audi A8.

Any how, what got me seriously worried was this warning in the manual:


What's even worse is that I did all doors without even turning off electrical system :O. I could've got airbags deployed and I wouldn't even know why! I always thought sensors are in pillars!
Any thoughts?

Edited 22 October, 20187 yr by JackySi

Hello again,

does anyone know how to remove the B-pillar covers?

Thankyou!

added rubber dampers of the Audi A8

4E4 837 763

 

 

 

What do those rubber dampnera do?

3 minutes ago, gigolea said:

What do those rubber dampnera do?

 

They upgrade his car to an Audi A8, obviously!

2 hours ago, gigolea said:

What do those rubber dampnera do?

prevent dancing of doors

7 minutes ago, MartiniB said:

prevent dancing of doors

 

Wouldn't turning off the music do the same?

11 hours ago, MartiniB said:

prevent dancing of doors

Does it actually help? What sort of difference do you expect/did you get? Less noise?