noise insulation

[Steviedakota]

As the lads say, just wedge in as much as fits. If applying closed cell to the reverse of the b pillar trim make sure it is not too thick, as it can interfere with the running of the seatbelt when put back on. 

[TWW]

Had one week vacation and what would be better than do some sound proofing to Superb. This was my first ever noise insulation project so had a lot to learn and this thread was a great info source for many things. Started from the B-pillar and like many has said it has a great impact for the sound levels right next to front passangers ears. Unfortunately I didn't took pictures from this at all. I did add 2mm silent coat to all places I could and then added noise isolator to the inside of the pillar. Made also rolls from the 10mm isolator and stuffed those as far as I could to inside of the lower parts in the B-pillar. For the inner metal used 2mm mat and 15mm absorber/6mm isolator. There is quite a lot room there before the inner plastics are on the way.

 

Next on my list was boot floor and the rear wheel arches from the inside. 

Starting point is quite plain metal

 

This is how I did the sides. Added 2mm silent coat and then 25/15mm noise absorber where possible and 6mm noise insulation to other places. 25mm on the side of the wheel arches is almost too much. It is now litte tight fit for the boot mid floor but managed to get all back in place.

 

For the floor I used 2mm silent coat and 6mm isolator. That was also tight fit to get the "spare tyre" styrofoam thing back in place.

 

In addition to these I added few pieces of silent coat 2mm to subwoofer. It has a great effect to the low sounds in my mind so thanks for the tip to earlier writers.

 

Like I wrote this was my first insulation so the overal look and end result might not be professional level but Ii general I'm really pleased the outcome and rear of the car is now much better than it was. Now noise that comes to front seats clearly moved from back to front floor/doors so those are next on the to do list. Maybe hood will have some treatment before those It took around 20h total and most diffucult was to figure out how to dismantle all the parts without breaking anything.

Edited 18 May, 2020 by TWW

[JackySi]

Adding anti-vibration mads on

13 minutes ago, TWW said:

Had one week vacation and what would be better than do some sound proofing to Superb. This was my first ever noise insulation project so had a lot to learn and this thread was a great info source for many things. Started from the B-pillar and like many has said it has a great impact for the sound levels right next to front passangers ears. Unfortunately I didn't took pictures from this at all. I did add 2mm silent coat to all places I could and then added noise isolator to the inside of the pillar. Made also rolls from the 10mm isolator and stuffed those as far as I could to inside of the lower parts in the B-pillar. For the inner metal used 2mm mat and 15mm absorber/6mm isolator. There is quite a lot room there before the inner plastics are on the way.

 

Next on my list was boot floor and the rear wheel arches from the inside. 

Starting point is quite plain metal

 

This is how I did the sides. Added 2mm silent coat and then 25/15mm noise absorber where possible and 6mm noise insulation to other places. 25mm on the side of the wheel arches is almost too much. It is now litte tight fit for the boot mid floor but managed to get all back in place.

 

For the floor I used 2mm silent coat and 6mm isolator. That was also tight fit to get the "spare tyre" styrofoam thing back in place.

 

In addition to these I added few pieces of silent coat 2mm to subwoofer. It has a great effect to the low sounds in my mind so thanks for the tip to earlier writers.

 

Like I wrote this was my first insulation so the overal look and end result might not be professional level but Ii general I'm really pleased the outcome and rear of the car is now much better than it was. Now noise that comes to front seats clearly moved from back to front floor/doors so those are next on the to do list. Maybe hood will have some treatment before those It took around 20h total and most diffucult was to figure out how to dismantle all the parts without breaking anything.

Goood job! The only thing I really need to point out, that's really wrong is adding anti-vibration pads on subwoofer. The deeps are not better because you did that, but because sub is not doing its job. The point of these subs is that whole chassis is used as "vibration" device and when you add anti-vibration pads you basically stop the vibration which is creating the sound in the first place. If this was normal sub, the chassis would be stiff and would not create any vibrations it self. I was testing this theory a lot on the Canton sub and I tried various positions of deadening material and more and less and I've realized that it kills sub to add material on there. Just my opinion, if you believe it's better well ok  . I upgraded sub later and added AMP and it was far superior then. But was a lot of extra work.

[TWW]

2 minutes ago, JackySi said:

Goood job! The only thing I really need to point out, that's really wrong is adding anti-vibration pads on subwoofer. The deeps are not better because you did that, but because sub is not doing its job. The point of these subs is that whole chassis is used as "vibration" device and when you add anti-vibration pads you basically stop the vibration which is creating the sound in the first place. If this was normal sub, the chassis would be stiff and would not create any vibrations it self. I was testing this theory a lot on the Canton sub and I tried various positions of deadening material and more and less and I've realized that it kills sub to add material on there. Just my opinion, if you believe it's better well ok  . I upgraded sub later and added AMP and it was far superior then. But was a lot of extra work.

Sorry wrote poorly but of course I did not add anything to the subwoofer itself but the subwoofer plastic casing. 

[JackySi]

1 hour ago, TWW said:

Sorry wrote poorly but of course I did not add anything to the subwoofer itself but the subwoofer plastic casing. 

That's exactly what I meant yeah... this heavily reduces subwoofer bass because it basically stops vibrations (sound) which is what sub is made for. 200w on this sub is now like 100w.If not less. And deeps are just as deep as the membrane can make. Anyway if you prefer it this way its your choice. I didn't like it at all. It was also not any deeper as before. Just much much quieter. 

What made my sub deeper and better sounding, was removing the cover or adding a lot of noise insulation on the cover it self. so it didn't create extra noise. I had same issue in Volvo because where there subwoofer there is battery and its cover. And that fixed the problem. I did actually noise insulation on whole V90. 

Edited 18 May, 2020 by JackySi

[TWW]

1 hour ago, JackySi said:

That's exactly what I meant yeah... this heavily reduces subwoofer bass because it basically stops vibrations (sound) which is what sub is made for. 200w on this sub is now like 100w.If not less. And deeps are just as deep as the membrane can make. Anyway if you prefer it this way its your choice. I didn't like it at all. It was also not any deeper as before. Just much much quieter. 

What made my sub deeper and better sounding, was removing the cover or adding a lot of noise insulation on the cover it self. so it didn't create extra noise. I had same issue in Volvo because where there subwoofer there is battery and its cover. And that fixed the problem. I did actually noise insulation on whole V90. 

 

OK. That's something new. My understanding has been that speakers work always better when there is not anything else vibrating than the actual speaker. At least I had to turn down the sub level couple steps to get it back to same level it was earlier.

 

[JackySi]

3 minutes ago, TWW said:

 

OK. That's something new. My understanding has been that speakers work always better when there is not anything else vibrating than the actual speaker. At least I had to turn down the sub level couple steps to get it back to same level it was earlier.

 

At home yes. In cars yes and no. My V90 Bowers & Wilkins sub is not sub at all. Its like a "shaker" that shakes car chassis to create deep tones. The same works with most "subs" in cars.. Except those you buy extra which do have MDF hard chassis. If resonance would be a problem, why some cars have subs in spare wheel? it shakes like every thing... not just air.. You had to turn down sub to get same level as it was before noise insulation? now that sounds really really wrong.... Well whatever suits you  I guess. 

I tested this really thoroughly and my ears found any sort of extra butyl on speaker chassis really bad influence. There is reason why skoda uses plastic instead of MDF on these subs. Its not the price as some people may think. Anyway.

as long as you're happy and your ears are happy! 😃 That's the point of it all.



This is B&W Subwoofer (whole sound system is 3700€ extra cost). Looks pretty weird and nothing special. the exhaust of sub is actually turned outside of the car in rear wheel arch.. This was made so air doesn't move in the car, but only chassis of the car. its really strange way of doing it but it sounds awesome...
 

[penguin17]

Another thing worth noting is that silent coat only needs to cover ~40-50% of the same panel for it to be effective and it doesn't need to be in one large piece.  

[digifish]

5 hours ago, TWW said:

Sorry wrote poorly but of course I did not add anything to the subwoofer itself but the subwoofer plastic casing. 

 

I did the same to mine when I matted my boot too. The quality of the bass improved IMO. A lot less 'flabby' and one-note-artificial boom.

Edited 18 May, 2020 by digifish

[pcspinheiro]

Hi guys,

I've been following this topic and I've already covered my boot floor with some Dynamat-like (butyl/alu) sheets. While that did improve things, it's not good enough. Therefore, I'd like to ask all the other fans of silence on this topic what they think helped the most with their superb. Mine's an estate and, right now, the most bothersome is the rear tire noise/drone. If the tarmac is really nice and smooth it's ok-ish, but that's mostly not the case around Portuguese roads. I had though of adding some closed cell foam on top of the butyl sheets but never got around to buy them. I think right now it's probably the rear wheel arches and side sheet metal doing this, but would really like to take the path of least resistance and do only what people fond most useful.

 

If someone bothered to take pics of the disassembly process of the boot trim that'd also be awesome, as my biggest fear is of breaking something not obvious to remove that's going to be expensive to replace. Thanks in advance! Cheers!

[Paikesejanku]

11 hours ago, TWW said:

Sorry wrote poorly but of course I did not add anything to the subwoofer itself but the subwoofer plastic casing. 

Hi, I also did this, and I like the sound this way better. Without, it made too much muddy bass vibrations. After covering it became more  precise, did not notice any degradation in loudness.

[Paikesejanku]

I have the same question. I have put effort in adding butyl sheets, to reduce the vibration from rough tarmac.  Now in theory I'd like to suppress the accustic echo what car body generates  because of the rough tarmac.  Something that absorbs sound...

[Steviedakota]

23 hours ago, TWW said:

Had one week vacation and what would be better than do some sound proofing to Superb. This was my first ever noise insulation project so had a lot to learn and this thread was a great info source for many things. Started from the B-pillar and like many has said it has a great impact for the sound levels right next to front passangers ears. Unfortunately I didn't took pictures from this at all. I did add 2mm silent coat to all places I could and then added noise isolator to the inside of the pillar. Made also rolls from the 10mm isolator and stuffed those as far as I could to inside of the lower parts in the B-pillar. For the inner metal used 2mm mat and 15mm absorber/6mm isolator. There is quite a lot room there before the inner plastics are on the way.

 

Next on my list was boot floor and the rear wheel arches from the inside. 

Starting point is quite plain metal

 

 

 

 

 

 

Would you explain the procedure for removing the side trim panels to access the inner arches as per your pics?  

It's a job a want to tackle but it looks like a bit of a nightmare as those side panels sit under the plastic panels that support the rear parcel shelf, so it looks like all the plastic panels and C pillar trim come into play.

[TWW]

Let's try

1. Get some set of plastic trim removers

 

2. Take out all the floor panels. Usefull tips: 

 

3. Remove the plastics from D pillar. Just get wide removal tool under the part and carefully take those away with it and your hands.

 

4. Remove side "door" by lifting it upwards and then 5. remove additional plastics under that. No tools needed and then you have access to subwoover.

 

6. Remove the upper part of the side trim panel.

Three marked with X easily removable. The one screw under the hook marked with * see: 

After all screws are removed you can the part off. You have to turn it little to get the front end come off between the C pillar and rear seat sidewall. There are couple short wires that you need to disconnect to be able to lift this aside. You can also disconnect the cable that goes to back seat folding mechanism if you wan't but I didn't do that. 

 

7. Remove plastic trims in below picture. First 7.1 by lifting it upwards and then 7.2. (This I don't remember if there was some screw but everything is well visible at this phase). 7.1. you can only turn aside enough that you are able to remove 7.2.

 

End of part 1.

 

 

Edited 19 May, 2020 by TWW

[TWW]

Start of part 2. 

 

8. Remove the bottom plastic. There is one screw at the end of it in the floor X and then two plastic screws marked in the pic with O.

 

9. Then you are able to locate rest of the connectors you need to disconnect. Some in the top and some at the end of the panel. I didn't remove the rear seats, only turned the panel to the front to be able to work with the wheel arches.

 

Hope these steps are close to correct. Others please do correct the mistakes.

Edited 19 May, 2020 by TWW

[digifish]

On 19/05/2020 at 06:20, Paikesejanku said:

I have the same question. I have put effort in adding butyl sheets, to reduce the vibration from rough tarmac.  Now in theory I'd like to suppress the accustic echo what car body generates  because of the rough tarmac.  Something that absorbs sound...

 

I think the entire floor needs doing and the sills need filling with expanding foam or something.

 

I plan to get my car up on a hoist at some point and see what can be done from below. My impression is the entire tub is an issue.

[Buocius]

On 04/07/2018 at 21:32, Enriquez said:

Some photos from my rattle removal from dashboard insert:

 

 

After split of the dashboard... Then top of the insert - all plastic connected pieces needs to be separated by tape. Be careful with removal of the 0.0 reset button.

 

 

 

 

 

Can someone explain how to remove instruments cluster? Thanks in advance.

[Enriquez]

This can help You

 

[digifish]

So I (badly) filmed the whole saga of adding some sound-control to the front-drivers door. I just wanted to damp the outer skin, at the end I compare the passenger (untreated) and drivers side (treated). On the road the effect was subtle, but I could tell the difference. Little calmer on my right side. 4/10 for effectiveness. Although I didn't really go full-on here 

 

 

Edited 30 May, 2020 by digifish

[digifish]

Took 2 hours to do everything you see above. I'll do the passenger side tomorrow and put a camera on a tripod. Easier with 2 less connectors.

Edited 30 May, 2020 by digifish

[SpAwNtoHell]

Very good, but my 10pence about doors is that most of noise is caused by wind/ air and the best to reduce that is get the accustic insolation glass as retrofit or add it when you first get the car.

[JackySi]

I would love laminated glass as aftermarket but its soooo expensive... Its like few grand for Superb. On my V90 since I done even extra noise insulation, the only noise left are windows. And I don't know if I want to spend few thousand euro on perfectly fine windows. Tho it would make car deadly silent

[digifish]

4 minutes ago, SpAwNtoHell said:

Very good, but my 10pence about doors is that most of noise is caused by wind/ air and the best to reduce that is get the accustic insolation glass as retrofit or add it when you first get the car.

 

Yes I was under no illusions this was going to make a big difference. It's just a bit of lockdown fun at this point

 

I also wanted to get into the door for a long time and couldn't find any videos online for the Skoda Superb III. So made one.

Edited 30 May, 2020 by digifish

[SpAwNtoHell]

46 minutes ago, JackySi said:

I would love laminated glass as aftermarket but its soooo expensive... Its like few grand for Superb. On my V90 since I done even extra noise insulation, the only noise left are windows. And I don't know if I want to spend few thousand euro on perfectly fine windows. Tho it would make car deadly silent

 Yes expensive... Very expensive i might add but i think might be worth. I would not hesitate to add it if i would get it brand new...

[Steviedakota]

7 hours ago, digifish said:

 

Yes I was under no illusions this was going to make a big difference. It's just a bit of lockdown fun at this point

 

I also wanted to get into the door for a long time and couldn't find any videos online for the Skoda Superb III. So made one.

 

Thanks for sharing Digi, well done, really look forward to watching this (after Space X launch) as it has been on my list. Any difference to the door 'thunk' when closing?