1 hour ago, JackySi said:

I just bought replacements when doing these jobs. All of them. Costs are minimal (like 1€ for  20 clips). 

 

Do you have a part number for those?

37 minutes ago, digifish said:

 

Do you have a part number for those?

Metal clips: 4A0867276B
I also broke on rear side sill panel plastic clip 6Q0853147

and the door panel plastic clips are: 5J0867276

P.S.: I got them from AliExpress. Checking prices on VW OEM I see they're priced 1€+ each... This is simply crazy price for piece of metal lol...

Edited 8 June, 20196 yr by JackySi

58 minutes ago, JackySi said:

Metal clips: 4A0867276B

 

Thanks. Found.

So had a chance to test the rear wheel wells (Manufactured Nov 2018 Superb III)

 

Difficult to tell, perhaps a little better. Since I have already done the boot floor, and Skoda seem to have added additional soundproofing to the interior arches in recent years, the effect of the exterior rear aches was marginal. 

 

This is one of the last things on my list, except for the outer skin on the drivers door.

 

So far in terms of effectiveness, I would rate...

 

• Boot floor and B Pillar - Equivalently effective and worth it. If you are only doing 2 things, this would be it. Both reasonably easy.
• Front and rear wheel arches ~ Smaller improvement. except on a wet road or with gravel hitting the front liner, then this is a big improvement for those mechanical impacts. Start with the rear, as its a lot easier than the front. Lighter liner. less complex attachment to the car. The front make things feel calmer.
• Bonnet - Noticeable improvement to engine noise through the windscreen. 

I have slowly been reducing the high-frequency noises from coarse chip roads with this. So now I am left with rumble from the tyres, still quite significant. Will be replacing these as soon as I can find something quiet in the 235/45R18 size in Australia.

 

Edited 10 June, 20196 yr by digifish

11 hours ago, digifish said:

So had a chance to test the rear wheel wells (Manufactured Nov 2018 Superb III)

 

Difficult to tell, perhaps a little better. Since I have already done the boot floor, and Skoda seem to have added additional soundproofing to the interior arches in recent years, the effect of the exterior rear aches was marginal. 

 

This is one of the last things on my list, except for the outer skin on the drivers door.

 

So far in terms of effectiveness, I would rate...

 

• Boot floor and B Pillar - Equivalently effective and worth it. If you are only doing 2 things, this would be it. Both reasonably easy.
• Front and rear wheel arches ~ Smaller improvement. except on a wet road or with gravel hitting the front liner, then this is a big improvement for those mechanical impacts. Start with the rear, as its a lot easier than the front. Lighter liner. less complex attachment to the car. The front make things feel calmer.
• Bonnet - Noticeable improvement to engine noise through the windscreen. 

I have slowly been reducing the high-frequency noises from coarse chip roads with this. So now I am left with rumble from the tyres, still quite significant. Will be replacing these as soon as I can find something quiet in the 235/45R18 size in Australia.

 

 

Thanks for this comparison.

I've done the boot well recently, next I'm looking to do the front and rear wheelarches.  Given that I've removed the front wheelarches a couple of times now, it shouldn't b an issue.

Good to hear the rear wheelarches r easier to do.

 

I'm keen on attacking the B-pillar too, but I don't trust myself with those panels 😞

 

In about 1-2 years I'll b changing my tyres from 235/40/19 to 245/40/19 - wider wheels with the same profile equals thicker sidewall, equals less road noise.

12 minutes ago, JR RS said:

 

Thanks for this comparison.

I've done the boot well recently, next I'm looking to do the front and rear wheelarches.  Given that I've removed the front wheelarches a couple of times now, it shouldn't b an issue.

Good to hear the rear wheelarches r easier to do.

 

I'm keen on attacking the B-pillar too, but I don't trust myself with those panels 😞

 

In about 1-2 years I'll b changing my tyres from 235/40/19 to 245/40/19 - wider wheels with the same profile equals thicker sidewall, equals less road noise.

Did you have any problems with laws/insurance?  I want to get 245/45R18 too, but I don't have clue if its allowed or not. I truly want wider tyre for safety/cost (cheaper than 235 here) now if they're quieter, now I REALLY NEED THEM!

5 hours ago, JackySi said:

Did you have any problems with laws/insurance?  I want to get 245/45R18 too, but I don't have clue if its allowed or not. I truly want wider tyre for safety/cost (cheaper than 235 here) now if they're quieter, now I REALLY NEED THEM!

 

p.s. i have 19s, not 18s.

i haven't changed my tyres yet.  planning to do so in 1-2 years time.

they're still the factory supplied Pirelli P7 tyres. 

 

i have however had 3 punctures in 3 months, with 2 of them requiring new tyres.  so i know how NOT cheap they r too replace.

7 hours ago, JR RS said:

 

p.s. i have 19s, not 18s.

i haven't changed my tyres yet.  planning to do so in 1-2 years time.

they're still the factory supplied Pirelli P7 tyres. 

 

i have however had 3 punctures in 3 months, with 2 of them requiring new tyres.  so i know how NOT cheap they r too replace.

I did understand you have 19's. There is no difference in total height of the tyre as 18's are 45 tyre height and 19s are 40. If you measure whole wheel with tyre its the same result. So if you can get 245/40R19 legally on, I can get mine too. The official "Homologation" as they call it here is 235 max for 19's. Same for 18s. Here at least

How did you manage to do that :O??? I had only one hole which I got fixed, not requiring new tyre. That's some bad luck!

15 hours ago, JackySi said:

I did understand you have 19's. There is no difference in total height of the tyre as 18's are 45 tyre height and 19s are 40. If you measure whole wheel with tyre its the same result. So if you can get 245/40R19 legally on, I can get mine too. The official "Homologation" as they call it here is 235 max for 19's. Same for 18s. Here at least

How did you manage to do that :O??? I had only one hole which I got fixed, not requiring new tyre. That's some bad luck!

 

when the time comes, legally, the tyre fitting place can refuse to put the 245/40 on my rims as they're not an official tyre size as specified by the manufacturer.

 

according to the tyre equivalency tables, the maximum width u can put on an 8" wide rim is 245mm.  so from that aspect, its safe.

 

according to local motor authority, which varies between countries and states within a country, u r allowed to fit tyres that are upto 26mm wider than the manufacturer's specified wheels. 

 

 

regarding the punctures - there was a point in time where there was lots of building construction work taking place near my work parking.  as a result i picked up 3 punctures. 

1st one was patched. 

2nd one was too close to edge - required new tyre

3rd one was on the same tyre as the 1st one, but this time close to the edge - required new tyre

 

just bad luck.

i've since changed my driving route so as to avoid the construction areas, given it costs me $350 AUD each time to replace a tyre 😞

 

1 hour ago, JR RS said:

i've since changed my driving route so as to avoid the construction areas, given it costs me $350 AUD each time to replace a tyre 😞

 

 

That's one reason I hunted for a dealer willing to swap 19" wheels for 18" off floor stock. 

 

18" tyres are on average about $100 less than 19". All this is BS anyway, there is less rubber in these low profile models, 17" is probably more expensive to make than 19" in materials. It's all market segmentation. Unfortunately we are in the middle of a sea-change where OEM tyre sizes have gone from 16-17" to 18-19". And unfortunately all the Australian tyre companies still see anything above 17" as "performance" ranges - with the premium that commands.

 

Price is based on supply and demand. They make a lot of inventory, ship it and it has to be paid for. Slower moving sizes cost more to stock.

 

When I was talking to Bridgestone about Serenity Plus in the 18" range, the salesman sucked in some air and said.... "That's a performance tire, we don't have that model in 18" ...well they do, just not imported into Australia.  

 

After putting a set of 16" Turanza Serenity Plus on an Astra, I really, really want these on my Superb. This tyre change alone and the Astra went from being significantly worse NVH than the Superb, to similar. From annoyingly noisy to almost pleasurable. The difference was profound. 

 

The joys of being on the bleeding edge of Automotive trends

Edited 12 June, 20196 yr by digifish

8 hours ago, digifish said:

 

That's one reason I hunted for a dealer willing to swap 19" wheels for 18" off floor stock. 

 

18" tyres are on average about $100 less than 19". All this is BS anyway, there is less rubber in these low profile models, 17" is probably more expensive to make than 19" in materials. It's all market segmentation. Unfortunately we are in the middle of a sea-change where OEM tyre sizes have gone from 16-17" to 18-19". And unfortunately all the Australian tyre companies still see anything above 17" as "performance" ranges - with the premium that commands.

 

Price is based on supply and demand. They make a lot of inventory, ship it and it has to be paid for. Slower moving sizes cost more to stock.

 

When I was talking to Bridgestone about Serenity Plus in the 18" range, the salesman sucked in some air and said.... "That's a performance tire, we don't have that model in 18" ...well they do, just not imported into Australia.  

 

After putting a set of 16" Turanza Serenity Plus on an Astra, I really, really want these on my Superb. This tyre change alone and the Astra went from being significantly worse NVH than the Superb, to similar. From annoyingly noisy to almost pleasurable. The difference was profound. 

 

The joys of being on the bleeding edge of Automotive trends

Agreed with all!!! Here 235 tyre Goodyrear F1 Asymetric 3 (which I bought) 98W costs less than 94Y but what's most idiotic is that 245 costs 30€ less than 235 same specs... I mean what the hell  That's why I was asking all this. My dealer told me to go get official written tyre size on "homologation" paper and that it should be fine. So I will do that soon. it costs about 35€ so one set of tyres will save me that. I was just worried not to get issues with width and wheel arches. My friend has that issue and it sounds nasty 😛  tho his GTI is lowered and all. Also more width on tyre less chances to hit curb with my expensive alloys. 

10€ Mayitr 2m High Density Soundproof Insulation Thermal 10mm Waterproof Closed Cell Foam Sheets

-> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32823328207.html

 

 

added it under Trunk cover

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

have to continue -
between trunk cover and boot lid is  ~10 mm gap

 

 

 

 

7 hours ago, MartiniB said:

10€ Mayitr 2m High Density Soundproof Insulation Thermal 10mm Waterproof Closed Cell Foam Sheets

-> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32823328207.html

 

added it under Trunk cover

 

 

 

 

 

A for effort!

 

I can't imagine it would make a lot of difference? I assume you already lined the boot floor?

@digifish

Yes, floor were done earlier
There is huge difference between hatch and wagon,
but when i traveled with fully loaded trunk i noticed, road noise also moves more to forward.
of course, 10mm foam can't be same effective as lot of luggage,
but there were free space for it, and i filled

28 minutes ago, MartiniB said:

@digifish

Yes, floor were done earlier
...
but when i traveled with fully loaded trunk i noticed, road noise also moves more to forward.
 

 

Yes I noticed that when I did the floor, every square inch with butyl/aluminium sheeting. It was one of the most dramatic changes I noticed while sound-proofing.

 

Suddenly it seemed calm/still behind me, relative to the pre-conditioned state.

 

After I did that I then noticed the B-Pillars ... after that was fixed my loudest source is now coming from around the lower area of the driver and passenger doors. Looking to do the outer skins with something when I am brave enough to tackle the door cards.

 

EDIT: Just checked your trip, I bet there were some crappy roads on that one

Edited 17 July, 20196 yr by digifish

26 minutes ago, digifish said:

I bet there were some crappy roads on that one

but not as awful as my daily routes in Riga,

on that long journeys i really enjoy my car, especially when few times reached 200+ km/h

center of capital Latvia,

Google Maps: https://goo.gl/maps/bajRWyst4jF2Ytzh7

YouTube:

 

 

 

17 hours ago, MartiniB said:

10€ Mayitr 2m High Density Soundproof Insulation Thermal 10mm Waterproof Closed Cell Foam Sheets

-> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32823328207.html

 

 

added it under Trunk cover

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

have to continue -
between trunk cover and boot lid is  ~10 mm gap

 

 

 

 

 

Having done the boot floor I'm not sure I could live with how that looks!  However you don't often see under there so well done.  I like the idea of closing that 10mm gap between cover and boot lid though.

On 17/06/2018 at 19:43, MartiniB said:

the elbow support now is quiet

 

 

May i seek help in how you dismantled this armrest. It's pretty tight and fixed

Well, I'm still reading page 3.... but just wanted to say thanks for all the great info so far!

Since I have all the front carpet & insulation out to replace the insulation & knackered sunroof drain hoses, I've started deadening the front foot wells, transmission tunnel and under the rear seats as I don't plan on ever removing them all again! Only using the 2mm Silent Coat but have doubled up on the floor pan in the rear foot wells as it was exceptionally tinny sounding compared to the rest of the floor pan. 

Later in the year I will likely do the doors and boot floor. 

On 16/07/2019 at 17:35, MartiniB said:

10€ Mayitr 2m High Density Soundproof Insulation Thermal 10mm Waterproof Closed Cell Foam Sheets

-> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32823328207.html

 

 

added it under Trunk cover

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

have to continue -
between trunk cover and boot lid is  ~10 mm gap

 

 

 

 

Has anyone tried this cheaper alternative to do the boot floor (just the part under and around spare wheel) and did you get any noticeable improvement? From other listings (this one does not specify) the material seem too light to work, when compared to dynamat or other branded ones. If someone has a positive experience I may give it a try. I'm tired of how noisy the rear end is...  

Hi to everyone that contributed here, good work, obviously found the topic chassing a annoying noise sourced from the rear or b pilars towards the back... So will add to this...

 

I have fitted on my superb 3 (H) pre multimedia touch screen review michelin primacy 4 rated 68db ....

 

Roar is most obvious from 30mph up to 50mph after which all noise blends in as a combination of wind, road and engine noise....

 

As many stated seems b pillars rear wheel arches and boot to be the most contributing factor. Wheater permitting i will start with the boot rear arches on outside on my one.

 

As far as i can tell glass is the part of the car letting most sound in. For those interested in figures, 2db sound attenuation will not be perceived or barely by human ear in some frequencies even less... But as a guide increments of 3db are noticed as increase in volume so this will help in choosing tyres.

 

Higher frequencies are perceived louder by human ear and also can travel easier, as lower ones require more force to be heard and noticed. Some of you observed trying to make some measurements already that even tho it seems quieter db meter does not register any different this is do to attenuation in some frequencies...

 

So this is mostly a trial and eror job, depending of many external factors as also materials used... 

 

I will post back with my results and update this.

 

Regards,

After reading more about it I concluded that the cheaper closed cell foam would be useless (at least on it's own). So I bought some noico 2 mm butyl/aluminium sheets (34€ for 1.7 m2) and will be testing that on the boot and spare wheel bare metal surfaces. It's supposed to be as good as dynamat but way cheaper. Maybe then I'll add some closed cell rubber foam on top for sound deadening. Will also report the results, hopefully with some dB measurements before and after on the same stretches of road. My superb already has some thick carpet-like lining on the outside of the wheel arches, so I'm not sure a lot more can be done from the inside...

Btw, my main problem is this horrible rumble from road/tires. I also want to solve some creaking noises, mainly the central armrest and the black rim around the instrument panel. Is this last one relovable?

14 hours ago, SpAwNtoHell said:

I have fitted on my superb 3 (H) pre multimedia touch screen review michelin primacy 4 rated 68db ....

 

Roar is most obvious from 30mph up to 50mph after which all noise blends in as a combination of wind, road and engine noise....

 

As many stated seems b pillars rear wheel arches and boot to be the most contributing factor. Wheater permitting i will start with the boot rear arches on outside on my one.

 

What tyres did you come from? What change did you notice?

 

For you the B Pillar and Boot should tame that - behind the head rukkus indeed.  These were the most dramatic changes using butyl mats. 

 

I still have to do the outer skin of the drivers and passenger doors, and fit quieter tyres.

 

FWIW - I hired a Volvo XC90  (almost top-spec model) while I was on holiday for a week. I was quite disappointed to hear the road noise in this, much more expensive and presumably luxurious SUV, was (I think) worse than my Skoda Superb. Road rumble and tread noise came into the cabin with no problem (like the floor was made of cardboard). Was I really that spoiled by a 2003 VW Passat I used to own?

Edited 17 October, 20196 yr by digifish
additional info

23 minutes ago, digifish said:

 

What tyres did you come from? What change did you notice?

 

For you the B Pillar and Boot should tame that - behind the head rukkus indeed.  These were the most dramatic changes using butyl mats. 

 

I still have to do the outer skin of the drivers and passenger doors, and fit quieter tyres.

 

FWIW - I hired a Volvo XC90  (almost top-spec model) while I was on holiday for a week. I was quite disappointed to hear the road noise in this, much more expensive and presumably luxurious SUV, was (I think) worse than my Skoda Superb. Road rumble and tread noise came into the cabin with no problem (like the floor was made of cardboard). Was I really that spoiled by a 2003 VW Passat I used to own?

This is the way i bought the car second hand with 109 k miles on, with 4 michelin prymacy4... But i compared with a superb the same trim spec and 1 month older than my one fitted with pirreli... Same 17" as my one the only difference is that that one is dsg and my one is manual... That one was by far more noisier... You could hear the tyres at even under 20 mph  in the driver seat...

 

My first research before buying dodo mats was to look if i can get quieter premium tyres than what i already have.