Back on summer wheel set. Please let it get warmer in the mornings! Unseen are sone VERY clean  wheel arches and suspension bits.

1 minute ago, Chazzy said:

Back on summer wheel set. Please let it get warmer in the mornings! Unseen are sone VERY clean  wheel arches and suspension bits.

Nice OCD. 

On 16/04/2021 at 14:17, Chazzy said:

Back on summer wheel set. Please let it get warmer in the mornings! Unseen are sone VERY clean  wheel arches and suspension bits.

Wheels look clean 😉

Mine has had its annual “deep clean” where all protection is stripped off, it’s fully decontaminated and then polished and coated. Takes a day and half, kills my back but means I know it’s good for the year ahead!

 

 

4 minutes ago, bigman1976 said:

Mine has had its annual “deep clean” where all protection is stripped off, it’s fully decontaminated and then polished and coated. Takes a day and half, kills my back but means I know it’s good for the year ahead!

 

 

Nice. What products have you used?

19 minutes ago, Colin170CR said:

Nice. What products have you used?

It’s been washed with Garage Therapy Decon shampoo, Bilt Hamber Korrosol was used for iron fallout, Auto Finesse Tardis was used for tar deposits, AM details clay bar, Sonax 04-06 polish, green hex logic pads and topped off with Gyeon CanCoat, Angel Wax H2Go window sealant, Carbon Collective Platinum wheels, Gyeon Tyre and Gtechnic C5 trim dressing. 
 

 

3 minutes ago, bigman1976 said:

It’s been washed with Garage Therapy Decon shampoo, Bilt Hamber Korrosol was used for iron fallout, Auto Finesse Tardis was used for tar deposits, AM details clay bar, Sonax 04-06 polish, green hex logic pads and topped off with Gyeon CanCoat, Angel Wax H2Go window sealant, Carbon Collective Platinum wheels, Gyeon Tyre and Gtechnic C5 trim dressing. 
 

 

 I can see why it took 1.5 days!

17 minutes ago, Colin170CR said:

 I can see why it took 1.5 days!

Should be good for a year though with regular maintenance washes. 

Recently been having a temperamental passenger door lock, when unlocking car by remote or touch, passenger door would not open from outside until it was opened once from inside. lock and unlock it and it does it again.

 

Decided to investigate and managed to remove the door panel (with a bit of fuss), and lo and behold a fiddle with the connectors and seems to work fine now.

 

I'll leave it off for a bit to see if it behaves.

 

I have read that on some Skoda models, lock issues are common. 

 

Anyone else or just me ? 

 

Angelo

Good to see the inside of the door.

 

Ever since I had my car back from the panel beater who did work on the driver side door, when the HVAC is on and blowing air you can hear a whistling/humming sound coming from behind the door trim... if you turn recirc on, or crack open any window the noise stops.. It's definitely not the door seals as they're all fine.

 

It seems the air blowing creates enough pressure within the cabin that air is forced through things.. But looking at that I can't think of what would make that noise with air passing through it...

 

Anywho, finally got my VCDS HEX-V2 cable to replace my old HEX-USB+CAN so I'm able to code things now.

 

Just did a few basic things:

Disabled Overtaking_right_prevention so ACC doesn't match cars to my right which I invariably have to undertake. This was frustrating me as New Zealanders don't seem to understand the concept of staying left unless passing so they'll sit in the middle or outer lane below the PSL

Enabled the DRL on/off option in the MIB

Changed driving profile switchover to Direct: controller over threshold

Fan blower display in AUTO mode

Enabled refuel quantity

 

I don't have the Skoda/Audi throttle response option as there doesn't seem to be any coding info for my ECU in the MY20, I just get "no coding information available for this ecu".. in any case it seems changing to Audi doesn't do anything for most people

Edited 21 April, 20215 yr by Guest

15 hours ago, Angelo Amato said:

Recently been having a temperamental passenger door lock, when unlocking car by remote or touch, passenger door would not open from outside until it was opened once from inside. lock and unlock it and it does it again.

 

Decided to investigate and managed to remove the door panel (with a bit of fuss), and lo and behold a fiddle with the connectors and seems to work fine now.

 

I'll leave it off for a bit to see if it behaves.

 

I have read that on some Skoda models, lock issues are common. 

 

Anyone else or just me ? 

 

Angelo

How on earth does the window regulator come out? Hopefully won’t need for at least another 10 years or so but still 

1 hour ago, Danoid said:

How on earth does the window regulator come out? Hopefully won’t need for at least another 10 years or so but still 

A lot these days are removed from the outside by removing the door skin. 

53 minutes ago, UndertheRadar said:

A lot these days are removed from the outside by removing the door skin. 

My old B5.5 Passat had a window regulator carrier which was a big sheet of metal and regulators attached to that right PITA.

 

Audi of the same age had 4 bolts and glass comes with it too, much simpler 

Disabled the obnoxious ignition on beep when you open the drivers door with vcds today

 

Was annoying whenever our daughter had fallen asleep, and forgetting about it then opening the door to loud ass beeps

1 hour ago, defiant said:

Disabled the obnoxious ignition on beep when you open the drivers door with vcds today

 

Was annoying whenever our daughter had fallen asleep, and forgetting about it then opening the door to loud ass beeps

 

on my shopping list. so too is locking the door while engine is running

1 hour ago, defiant said:

Disabled the obnoxious ignition on beep when you open the drivers door with vcds today

 

Was annoying whenever our daughter had fallen asleep, and forgetting about it then opening the door to loud ass beeps

Even though I’ve got extremely good at quickly getting out the car whilst our son sleeps in the back.. I could really do with this!

 

can you share where the module / coding info please?

30 minutes ago, 337 said:

Even though I’ve got extremely good at quickly getting out the car whilst our son sleeps in the back.. I could really do with this!

 

can you share where the module / coding info please?

Haha, likewise

 

I followed this video here:

 

 

 

Although I was using VCDS, so if using that:

• Go to 17 - Instruments
• Click Security Access, enter 25327
• Click Adaptations, then in the drop down menu look for "Ignition active message accuator" or use the search field then click the drop down menu
• It'll be set to "Driver door" by default
• Change to "No Display"
• Click Do It

Should work immediately without having to cycle the ignition. Then enjoy the peaceful serenity of an open door without the BEEP BEEP BEEP BEEP 

 

9 hours ago, defiant said:

Haha, likewise

 

I followed this video here:

 

 

 

Although I was using VCDS, so if using that:

• Go to 17 - Instruments
• Click Security Access, enter 25327
• Click Adaptations, then in the drop down menu look for "Ignition active message accuator" or use the search field then click the drop down menu
• It'll be set to "Driver door" by default
• Change to "No Display"
• Click Do It

Should work immediately without having to cycle the ignition. Then enjoy the peaceful serenity of an open door without the BEEP BEEP BEEP BEEP 

 

Ahhhhh the sound of silence!

 

Thanks Defiant

Did try map style from Porsche VW Audi  Seat Bentley on mine Columbus. Decided to use Porsche one.

Edited 1 May, 20215 yr by RomanB

Developed a fault with xenon headlights, orange exclamation with something about steerable headlights. Headlights not doing their usual dance but pointing at the ground a few feet in front of the car. Just as well it's nearly summer!

Hmmm, out with the VCDS. Headlight module reporting "databus error", not helpful! So one thinks-bubble later, I had a look at the suspension module and sure enough "front nearside suspension level sensor" broken. This sensor is of course used to vertically adjust the headlights according to load in the car etc. I had a good fiddle with the connector but to no avail, as soon as I cleared the fault code it popped up again.

 

So on to ebay, sourced a new sensor for £55 and it arrived today. Off with the wheel, popped the connector off, removed one nut and one bolt holding the old sensor on. Despite these being located in the wheel bay area and the car now being 5 years old, both came off amazingly easily! New sensor installed, connector popped back on, fault codes cleared and good to go. I wonder how much all that would have cost at a dealer?

Sold it 

Owned a Superb in one guise or another for the last 14 years 

 

2 minutes ago, Gizmo said:

Sold it 

Owned a Superb in one guise or another for the last 14 years 

 

What did you replace it with @Gizmo, if you don't mind me asking?

@BriskodaJeff I have bought a 'work shed' (toy!) as I'm only doing 50 miles a week and leaving it in a very dusty lorry park  

 

 

I'm sure I will be back in a fully electric Superb (maybe) at some point.

39 minutes ago, Gizmo said:

I have bought a 'work shed' (toy!) as I'm only doing 50 miles a week and leaving it in a very dusty lorry park 

I'm sure I will be back in a fully electric Superb (maybe) at some point.

Whatever happened to the Polestar 2 plans?

11 minutes ago, john999boy said:

Whatever happened to the Polestar 2 plans?

We were all set to pull the trigger, then the real range figures came out, to say I was disappointed (sub 200 miles from a claimed almost 290) would be an understatement.