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What have you done to your Superb III today?

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14 hours ago, numskull said:

Installed a Racechip GTS Black and XLR Pedal Box yesterday.

 

This is interesting as I was looking at the Racechip website yesterday for our Kodiaq - only a 1.4tsi so a different kettle of fish but I'd be interested in your feedback over time.

 

14 hours ago, Colin170CR said:

In your opinion was the throttle lag fix the result of the GTS Black or the Pedal box?

I switched it to Neutral and as I suspected, it does not bypass the XLR, which means although the pedal responds as standard, it still removes the throttle pedal lag which is great. 👍

23 minutes ago, numskull said:

I switched it to Neutral and as I suspected, it does not bypass the XLR, which means although the pedal responds as standard, it still removes the throttle pedal lag which is great. 👍

Mmmm. Think I might be investing in a Pedal box. It's certainly a lot cheaper than a DSG remap. I've got all the power I need so it's just a quicker response off the line I'm looking for.

But first I need to get my wheels done. The lacquer is starting to break down & my wife has curbed 2 off the 19" Trinity's on mine + 1 of her Karoq Crater alloys as well. I think a change to powder coated Gloss Black to match the black paint on mine (instead of diamond cut Anthracite as now) will offer better protection, look better & hide the brake dust better too. A local place can do for them £60 per corner +VAT. Hopefully the powder coating will last longer than the stock lacquer finish & my wife will be banned from driving my car except in an emergency 🚺. Well, that will be the plan anyway... 

FWIW If I remap my 220ps sportline, then I will also do the DSG at the same time; from experience, it's a must if you want avoid premature wear of the clutch pack.

I’ve driven a few more miles this morning. I still haven’t changed the mode from Eco but the difference even that makes, combined with zero throttle lag with the XLR pedal in place, is amazing. I will give sport a go later, when I can get on a dual carriageway.
I do need to suss-out the app, though, as it keeps nagging me that I have it in a manual programme and do I want to revert to their set programme. Seems odd as they push the fact you can customise each programme to suit. 

1 hour ago, stever750 said:

FWIW If I remap my 220ps sportline, then I will also do the DSG at the same time; from experience, it's a must if you want avoid premature wear of the clutch pack.

Interesting. I guess clutch wear depends upon how many F1 starts and hard accelerations you’re going to perform. I think I’m correct in saying, that the 6 Speed Dry DSG is good for 500+nm which an S1 remap / piggyback are never going to reach, so that in itself isn’t going to wear the clutch pack anymore than running a standard setup.

I wanted the Racechip to improve overtaking and give more ummph, not to startle BMW’s at the the lights. 

2 hours ago, Colin170CR said:

Mmmm. Think I might be investing in a Pedal box. It's certainly a lot cheaper than a DSG remap. I've got all the power I need so it's just a quicker response off the line I'm looking for.

But first I need to get my wheels done. The lacquer is starting to break down & my wife has curbed 2 off the 19" Trinity's on mine + 1 of her Karoq Crater alloys as well. I think a change to powder coated Gloss Black to match the black paint on mine (instead of diamond cut Anthracite as now) will offer better protection, look better & hide the brake dust better too. A local place can do for them £60 per corner +VAT. Hopefully the powder coating will last longer than the stock lacquer finish & my wife will be banned from driving my car except in an emergency 🚺. Well, that will be the plan anyway... 

I have a DTE PedalBox in mine for the last few years.  Couldnt drive the car without it. The lag is now non existent. Fitted it as junctions were damn near dangerous to exit or enter. The app version made it easy to install and hide away under the dash, and still control the settings if needed. 

20 minutes ago, numskull said:

I’ve driven a few more miles this morning. I still haven’t changed the mode from Eco but the difference even that makes, combined with zero throttle lag with the XLR pedal in place, is amazing. I will give sport a go later, when I can get on a dual carriageway.
I do need to suss-out the app, though, as it keeps nagging me that I have it in a manual programme and do I want to revert to their set programme. Seems odd as they push the fact you can customise each programme to suit. 

This has got me thinking about whether an XLR would be a solution for my wife's 1.5TSi 4x4 Karoq DSG which has got a very pronounced delay between pedal depression & anything happening. In the Karoq's case I suspect it's due to the fix they had to apply to cure the Kangarooing problem the early models had. Of course the Karoq is a totally different animal to my 280 Superb & I wouldn't be looking to get the power boosted on it. However, a quicker throttle response would be a godsend. Humm. I could be looking at two XLR's then? 

16 minutes ago, Colin170CR said:

This has got me thinking about whether an XLR would be a solution for my wife's 1.5TSi 4x4 Karoq DSG which has got a very pronounced delay between pedal depression & anything happening. In the Karoq's case I suspect it's due to the fix they had to apply to cure the Kangarooing problem the early models had. Of course the Karoq is a totally different animal to my 280 Superb & I wouldn't be looking to get the power boosted on it. However, a quicker throttle response would be a godsend. Humm. I could be looking at two XLR's then? 

Just ordered an XLR for my wife's Karoq. I'll see how that goes & then make a decision about whether to get one for my Superb as well. It's going to be an expensive month😒

12 minutes ago, numskull said:

Interesting. I guess clutch wear depends upon how many F1 starts and hard accelerations you’re going to perform. I think I’m correct in saying, that the 6 Speed Dry DSG is good for 500+nm which an S1 remap / piggyback are never going to reach, so that in itself isn’t going to wear the clutch pack anymore than running a standard setup.

I wanted the Racechip to improve overtaking and give more ummph, not to startle BMW’s at the the lights. 

Actually nothing to do with F1 starts, it's about the clamping force. You increase the torque, the plates are more likely to slip, especially when changing gear under acceleration. I've got the wet 6 speed which is less prone, but I'd still do it, as the clutch packs don't have an infinite life! Getting the TCU remapped also fixes the lag issue too of course. This is a good source to check the torque limits of your particular gearbox, I've got the DQ250 in mine, which is not rated to 500Nm, only 400.

 

TLDR

DQ200 - 7 speed dry rated to 250Nm

DQ250 wet 6 speed 399Nm

DQ380/381  wet 7 spd 420Nm

DQ500 7 spd wet 600Nm (no Skoda to my knowledge has had one of these fitted)

 

https://blog.fcpeuro.com/the-definitive-guide-to-the-dsg-transmission

 

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Direct-shift_gearbox

 

3 hours ago, stever750 said:

Actually nothing to do with F1 starts, it's about the clamping force. You increase the torque, the plates are more likely to slip, especially when changing gear under acceleration. 

Yep that’s true but that’s when the packs are under the most torque. There are many, many 280 / Golf R /Cupra owners who are running Stage 1 remaps or piggybacks, with engines producing in excess of 400nm with standard DQ250 units without any issues. For instance, I think Colin170CR has a Revo Stage 1 map and a standard DQ250 and AFAIK, he doesn’t have any issues with the torque that map’ll be chucking out. 
In any event, I’m not going to be planting the right foot to the carpet at any time, so it’s unlikely I’ll be putting excessive strain on the clutch packs.
 

PS - Sorry for the earlier dumb mistake on the DQ250. 

Edited by numskull
Typo

I ran my Cupra that was measured at 517Nm (FWIW) with an unmodified DQ250. It was torque limited in 1-3, and in fact accelerated quicker in 4th gear than it did in third. The turbo blew up on mine, had the oil changed in the box when it was replaced, and it was much dirtier than normal. It's not so much that they slip like a conventional clutch might, it's the extra wear during gear changes that cause the most damage, but it's a long term wear issue, it means that the clutch pack life might be reduced by 20-25% which is fine if you're not keeping the car or low mileage etc. Of course if you drive it sensibly then no issue, but I defy anyone with a remap not to use it more than occasionally! 

517nm = 380lbft; that’s insane!
TBH, apart from getting a classic of some sort, to sit and hopefully appreciate in the yet-to-be-built garage, I cannot see us ever getting rid of the 280; it’s a ridiculously well designed and made Q-Car. Who knows, it may well be that classic in-waiting in fact, in like, what, 19 years in our case? Perhaps I’ll shove it in there and buy something lease for everyday use.

But for those who say I’m nuts, it’ll never be a “classic” I mean well, who in their right mind would pay £60k for a Ford Capri 280 or even more ridiculous, £100k for a Sierra Cosworth? Well, having had 1 RWD and 2 4x4 Sapphire Cosworths between ‘89 and ‘91 I can tell you, the 280 is better in every single respect. There were only 1,600 Cosworths of all types built. There are probably less than 1,500 280’s of all types in the U.K. and I can’t see it being available for much longer. Makes you think….

1 hour ago, numskull said:

517nm = 380lbft; that’s insane!
TBH, apart from getting a classic of some sort, to sit and hopefully appreciate in the yet-to-be-built garage, I cannot see us ever getting rid of the 280; it’s a ridiculously well designed and made Q-Car. Who knows, it may well be that classic in-waiting in fact, in like, what, 19 years in our case? Perhaps I’ll shove it in there and buy something lease for everyday use.

But for those who say I’m nuts, it’ll never be a “classic” I mean well, who in their right mind would pay £60k for a Ford Capri 280 or even more ridiculous, £100k for a Sierra Cosworth? Well, having had 1 RWD and 2 4x4 Sapphire Cosworths between ‘89 and ‘91 I can tell you, the 280 is better in every single respect. There were only 1,600 Cosworths of all types built. There are probably less than 1,500 280’s of all types in the U.K. and I can’t see it being available for much longer. Makes you think….

I'm with you. The 280 Superb is a great Q car. More than quick as standard & is bordering on being a hooligan with a stage 1 remap - Revo in my case. Like you I don't rag mine at every given opportunity but I do like surprising the odd boy racer now & again. I got mine used at 2.5 years old & half it's new price & plan to keep it a while. I'm retired now so my annual mileage is low,  5-6k miles a year at best so the 280 is aging like a fine wine. Like you I think the 280 will become a desirable classic in time.   

My Cupra had same engine, the 280ps EA888. "only" 320bhp after the remap, but prodigious torque, it was too much tbh. It was great for overtaking anything anywhere, but it wasn't fun to drive as it was just too fast / too much grip for public roads. I think a 350+bhp Superb is a brilliant idea, but I can't live with the fuel eco given my business mileage. The 220 will remap to 300bhp / 450Nm on a generic S1 which is more than enough, and since I partially fixed the woeful dampers I'd actually be able to make some use of the extra power. No hurry to do it, It's a keeper and I need it to last beyond 100k

Flattened Gandalf's steering wheel today.

Got the Sportline steering wheel for a price I couldn't resist.

Original wheel - 3VO 419 091 S CWE

Sportline wheel - 565 419 091 E BGW

 

Swapping out the wheel was quick and easy. 

I did not disconnect the car battery.

 

With the car running, popped out one side of the airbag clip, turned the wheel over, popped out the other side. 

Left the airbag module in the wheel, straightened the steering wheel, turned off the car and left it for 20 mins to "sleep".

Then unclip the connectors, remove bolt with M12, to remove the wheel.

Put Sportline wheel in place and tighten bolt, taking care to put it in the exact same spot/alignment. Plug in the connectors.

Push airbag module into place.

Done.

 

I do miss the DSG paddle shifter extensions though on the Sportline wheel, so I've got a new set on the way, similar to the one I had.

 

PXL_20220513_073727746.thumb.jpg.6e6ab4040d768b0d1febb5eae1a76da0.jpg

 

998631639_PXL_20220513_0545140542.thumb.jpg.775400962ec824ceb1197fe197b3900b.jpg

Edited by JR RS

The manual paddles on the stock sportline wheel are pretty pathetic tbh, almost impossible to use when driving around town, pulling out of junctions etc.

@JR RS

sportline's looks used a lot 😞

in my area new perforated leather costed 110 euros

 

YGAAAgHhBuA-1920.jpg

Edited by MartiniB
+ picture

On 09/05/2022 at 22:31, JR RS said:

 

This cost me $110 AUD.

Maxton would've cost me $400 plus.

Kopacek one would've cost me about $400.

Original Sportline one would've cost me about $600.

 

It was a gamble I took and I was surprisingly pleased.

Bloody hell, Maxton was nothing like that in the UK. I'll check the price and report back. Think it was circa £50-£60.

10 hours ago, stever750 said:

The manual paddles on the stock sportline wheel are pretty pathetic tbh, almost impossible to use when driving around town, pulling out of junctions etc.

Indeed, which is why I'm putting the extensions on it.

Much easier to use then, and fun.

8 hours ago, JR RS said:

Indeed, which is why I'm putting the extensions on it.

Much easier to use then, and fun.

Where did you get them from? I'd like to do the same though I guess I need to find somewhere in Europe / UK. 

39 minutes ago, stever750 said:

Where did you get them from? I'd like to do the same though I guess I need to find somewhere in Europe / UK. 

Look like these?

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