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Out of interest on my FABIA MK4 - KUMHO 215/45 R17 19V ECSTA PS 71 must admit never heard of them before & suppose at the the time its the price that SKODA require plus availability......when needed will fit an all weather tyre as replacements , around MOT time ?😏

Plug & Play doesn't work here—not even with an adapter. You don’t buy the components first and only then start thinking. Naturally, the vehicle has to be reprogrammed. Are you aware that a new bumper is required? Likely also a new BCM module and an LCM module.

Can you not read the part number off the current one?

Thanks for ur help Papez. He was being lazy and didnt even removed the lock to check on the holes. It is resolved now \m/

look at this topic

Heyooo peeps So this oil sensor has started giving me 'low oil' warnings even though I know it's not an issue. It only happens once in a blue moon but it's one of those things that now I know it's a problem I want it fixed. Also car is due a service so perfect time to change it as it requires an empty sump. So if I purchase the wrong one it would need draining again to replace which is a huge faff. Finding the sensor isn't an issue but I believe this same sensor (in bottom of sump) is also the same sensor for the oil temp? So my question should anyone know is are ALL sensors BOTH level and temp? Or do I have to find one specifically that is capable of both measurements? The oil temp display on the dash is what I use 99.5% of my driving so I really want to keep it's function. 2012 1.2 tsi cbzb Skoda fabia combi elegance. Thanks 👍🏻

Hello! I have a Skoda Superb 2025 and came across this forum as I'm having trouble with an aftermarket tow bar - I'll find the correct thread and post there :)

Hi there @borderbilly - I've just joined this forum as well, but because I already have a Skoda Superb (purchased to tow a caravan) and am having a lot of issues with the tow bar. My advice is do not go for an after market tow bar as it could cause you a lot of problems later on! I've currently got a superb that isn't safe to tow a caravan with as the hazards randomly come on and seat belts tighten up. I believe the Superb is a brilliant tow car once the tow bar issues will be resolved, but just take care when you choose what tow bar to buy! I've joined this forum so that I can participate to the conversation this topic, but saw your message in the search so wanted to bring this to your attention!

VW group specify the numbers like 502 00, 504 00, not viscosity.

Hi everybody, can anyone help with MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0253T firmware? I can't find it anywhere.. Thanks!

They did. But the recommendation never changed. Actually there were recommendations as the engines. Actually with the Euro 5 TSI,s VW recommended as engines aged you changed to servicing using 5w 40 FS and fixed service regime. the 40 better at higher temperatures more stable & better turbo charger protection. Compensating (after 5 years) for internal engine wear. The slightly higher hot viscosity oil helps maintain oil pressure and cushioning. Those were from VW not me, and not AI.

I would guess that there weren't any 0W30s on the market then which met the correct VW group specs. Things evolve.

Why was 0w 30 FS III not the recommended oil back when they produced the Euro 5 engines. There are EURO 6 and

For best cold start-up filling of tensioner and lubing of chain, 0W oils should outperform 5W.

I think this is the same car as your P2563 thread, so it's worth knowing the turbo fault is still there when you judge any of this. The figure I'd focus on is the ash. A regeneration burns soot, but it can't burn ash. Ash is what's left from oil additives, plus a little from fuel and engine wear, and it just builds up in the filter over the years. At 230,000 km some is expected. If the app is right that it's at 153% of its limit, there's less room left for soot, so the filter reaches its soot threshold sooner and regenerates more often. That fits what you're seeing in town. That's why I don't think a software rollback on its own will fix it. Older software won't take ash out of the filter. Also, 9980 is presumably the 23R6 update Skoda did on EA189 engines, and Skoda say the regulators approved it, so going back to the old software means the car is no longer on the approved calibration. I'd check where you stand on that where you live before doing it. What I'd do instead: 1. Check the differential pressure sensor reading with the engine off. With nothing flowing it should read about zero. If it shows a pressure with the engine stopped, the sensor or its pipes are suspect, and so is the soot figure the ECU is working from. Check both little hoses for splits and blockages while you're there. 2. Get the filter cleaned off the car by someone who does a proper ash clean (heat, then air and vacuum, or a flush), or replace it. A chemical clean through the sensor port mainly works on soot. Ask them for a before and after flow or back pressure figure. 3. Keep an eye on oil use and use the right oil. The Superb handbook lists VW 507 00 for the 125 kW TDI CR with DPF, 4.3 litres with filter. Oil the engine burns adds to the ash. 4. The ash number in the app is the ECU's own estimate, so make sure whoever cleans or replaces the filter resets the DPF values in the ECU afterwards. If the car is in the UK, keep the invoice. The MOT manual says a DPF that has been cut open and rewelded is a fail unless you can show there was a valid reason, such as cleaning.

It's has gone into an independent garage today for oil an filter change. He uses 5W 30W for this engine so looking good

What about just turning the radio off before starting engine?

Hi, Did you have a look by Kufatec? They may sell plug and play adapters...

I've never done this, so I'm not 100% sure, but cars made after 1996 should have the newer radiator support panel, compatible with both types of the lock. Try to remove the old lock, there may be extra holes hidden under the cover (sorry, I couldn't find better photos of a bare panel) For reference, the older panel, that's not compatible with the facelift lock, looks like this So yours should be compatible.

Sorry its Gearbox. On my sons mk1 its a braided strap. Alasdair

I would be requesting back to 5w 30 FS III then which was @nd still is the spec of oil for that engine. Personally if noise I would go 5w 40 FS which was and is still the spec if you want and as long as doing fixed regime oil and filter changes.

Heritage Skoda charge £40 for a courtesy car.

For what it’s worth… I notice that, when I said that Skoda only advised that a single 2.5bar inflation-pressure should be used for the tyres fitted to Skoda Fabia Mk4 cars, that was not correct. The ’correct’ tyre pressure for Fabia Mk4s was discussed here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/522596-correct-tyre-pressure/ when I provided the following photo of my own Mk4 SE L car’s pressure-sticker. It will be seen that the 2.5bar front- and rear-axles pressure recommendation applies only to ‘normal’ loading (3 people + 3 suitcases) whereas 2.7bar (front axle) and 3.4bar (rear axle) are advised for ‘heavy’ loading (5 people + 5 suitcases

Hi everyone, I'm trying to diagnose a persistent front-left ABS wheel-speed sensor fault on my 2011 Skoda Octavia Scout 2.0 TDI 4x4 (Mk2). The fault code I'm getting is 00283:012 – Front Left ABS Wheel Speed Sensor – Electrical Fault. So far I've: Replaced the front-left ABS sensor. Checked the voltage at the sensor connector and found approximately 2V across the two wires, compared with around 11.4V on the working opposite side. When connecting my multimeter between battery positive (+) and the sensor wiring, I was getting approximately 11.5V. This makes me wonder whether there's a problem with the sensor's supply or return circuit. Checked the short ABS sensor wiring harness, including the black and brown wires where they join the main loom. Checked for continuity between the sensor wiring and the ABS module connector, but haven't managed to establish continuity. I've removed the ABS module connector, which I think is the the 47-pin version with three rows of terminals but not sure if it could be the 26 way and if this refers to rows in use? I've seen discussions on here identifying the rear-left sensor as pins 36 and 37 and the rear-right as pins 43 and 42 on the 47-pin connector. However, I'm trying to establish the correct pin numbers for the FRONT LEFT ABS sensor. I've also been given a wiring diagram suggesting pins 8 and 9, but I want to confirm this applies to my exact ABS module before making any connections. My intention is to run two replacement wires from the ABS module connector to the front-left sensor to bypass any possible break in the original loom. I've stripped back the loom to see where it connects but looks like the ABS sensor wire disapears into the bulkhead so cant access it. Was thinking of going to the brown/black wires on the modual connector Could anyone confirm: Which two pins on the 47-pin ABS connector are for the front-left wheel-speed sensor? Which pin corresponds to the black wire and which to the brown wire? Is there an intermediate connector or known wiring failure point between the ABS module and front-left sensor on the Mk2 Scout? I've attached photographs of my actual ABS connector, including the terminal layout. Any help or a correct wiring diagram for this particular ABS module would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Hi ive got a build up of black soot in the coolant tank and getting pressure in the system when taking off the coolant tank cap in the morning when engine is cold it still releases a heavy hiss of air escaping, also when turning ignition on or off get a gurgling sound from behind dashboard. Im hoping this is a broken egr cooler and not the head gasket so to check i want to bypass the egr cooler , the dpf and egr are already mapped out . As anybody on here bypassed the coolant pipes on the egr cooler on here before ? If so what size pipe do I need ? Is it possible to do from top of the engine or do you need to get underneath it ?