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Thought this might be a fun thing for a non-model-specific, general interest thread. Inspired by yesterday's events, and probably today's too. 😁 Idea being to show the gap between the plan and the reality, because in my experience they rarely correlate exactly. Obviously, it will be more entertaining and instructive when things don't go to plan. Not intended to be a post for just bragging about how fast and efficient you are, but if you want to feed back preventive or problem solving tips in response to others' problems, that's obviously going to be good. Example - yesterday I planned a few jobs on a mk1 Fabia that I recently acquired, wasn't sure how far I'd get through it, but there was always today as well, to finish off overspill. Remove front bumper, to fix a little front-end collision (hedge) damage Change coolant (flush too) and expansion tank Check right side rear drum handbrake, which was seizing on, and had a bodged fixing from last visit (see The Daily Bodge 30th Aug) Change rocker cover gasket to fix oil leak Change rear bumpstops if delivered

Car: 2015 Octavia Scout, manual gearbox, 2.0 TDI (CRMB), 230000km Hi, My octavia has an issue. It takes a really long time to reach operating temps. Yesterday driving at 90 km/h (+5 min city traffic first) and 10°C outside, it took me almost 15 min before I had reached 90°C coolant temp and ≈ 75°C oil temp. Driving speeds below 50km/h I can barely get the needle to move. Oil temp also has a hard time to go above 80-85°C going 80-90km/h, but driving in highway speeds I can reach 90-110°C depending on outside temp. Also if I engine brake and roll down a long hill, the coolant temp drops ≈ 5-10°C. This happens even in the summer, with temps around 20-25°C. So, my main hypothesis is a broken coolant thermostat, since I have no error codes and the fault has just appeared without leaks, noises or any other symptom. Water pump was swapped last year, hopefully it's not that. One thing i'm not sure about is if I have the easily accessable DSG thermostat under the intake, even though I have a manual gearbox? What do you people think, should I try having a mechanic swap the thermostat (the main one that's hard to reach)? My guess is it will cost a couple hundred euro, so that's why I'm asking here first if it could be something else.

Already swapped for Polybush versions, much nicer. I’ve had track cars with solid mounts so knew it would be bad but got them cheap so thought I’d try it. Found out why they were cheap!

Defective / cracked cables in the door hinge grommet or at the door lock plug end? Common problem after some years. I'd start with checking ECU error codes, if there is anything to do with the door latch in the logs, check the cables in the hinge and around the plug to actuator. Failing that, the fault is likely to be with the actual lock, I'd replace the lot. HTH.

Probably worth disconnecting battery negative before unplugging it, but then you certainly can. You can buy replacement brackets very cheaply on ebay, but they are likely to be 3D-printed, weak and not necessarily a good fit. Lashing it in with cable ties is a good suggestion and perfectly adequate. Genuine replacement not that expensive in the grand scheme of things, if you must: Skoda parts

Yes it’s a MIB3; i prefer not to patch as I want to keep all the services connected

I was lucky: got it for 130€ from a totalled car in a wreckage shop with regular invoice

Yeah. Who would have thought the VW engineers designed a way to reduce vibration transfer..... Are you going to replace with proper engine mount or just tolerate it

So its the charge air cooler. Remove EGR bypass too confirm that isn't leaking would be the next step yeah Interesting the turbo makes enough pressure to overcome the coolant, but I guess it runs about 10-12psi boost so probably on par with cooling system. No doubt a bit of coolant get leaked into intake charge and burned. Hopefully not too expensive to fix. Really, if you are skint you could almost keep the bypass in and tolerate the reduced preformance without the cooler doing anything. Maybe for a while anyhow.

Sorry - red and black wires were thicker than others in Skoda part (not red and brown)

I had the same problem. Broken green wire on o/s tailgate strut. After foolishly trusting AI I bought a pair of Azteca struts as they looked to be almost identical and I found them cheaper than Skoda parts (I concluded Tiguan parts are not the same). The next problem is it is decades since I did much to a car (reversed the polarity of my Morris Minor to fit a radio, took a Honda 125S engine apart etc.) But spent 18 years abroad, mostly without a car. So all this trim removal is new to me and it didn't help that the manuals floating around online seem to be for a car with different trim to my 2018 (2017?) Karoq Edition. Anyway - finally managed to complete the fitting today and the Azteca strut seems to work fine with the Skoda one on the n/s. When comparing the parts, the red and brown (power?) wires are thicker on the Skoda original... on Azteca part all wires look similar thickness). The wires pass through the rubber grommet at the top of the "Accordion" in the middle of the grommet on the Skoda, but offset from center on the Azteca part. None of that seems consequential. I haven't refitted the trim yet - if there is demand for it I could provide some photos showing where the clips and rivets etc. are. Meanwhile - after pulling out the luggage compartment side trip (top part) I found a small (1.6cm long) spring on the boot luggage compartment floor. No idea where that came from. My only thought is it might be connected to the courtesy light in that panel but there doesn't seem to be any place or need for it there. Any ideas? Or maybe it is not related to the car at all.

hmm possibly? but with the bracket feeling like its been bent i thought that perhaps it just fell out of the bracket at some point? no idea is it safe to take the ECU to look at the bracket? ive seen some videos online of people just unplugging it but i dont want to ruin the engine by taking it out incorrectly

I had a 24 plate Skoda Octavia 1.5 TSI 140 PSW. About 6 weeks after getting the car it started to develop faults. Initially started with the car not letting me reverse out a drive as it thought I was going to hit something and kept emergency braking. The car went into the garage but no issue was found. The errors then escalated into other warning messages, mainly front error assist, hill start assist, tyre pressure warnings. Not long after these started I got into the car to drive home and when I started the engine about 12 error messages flashed up one after the other and I was put into limp home mode. The car went back into the garage but once again after three months no issues found. One thing I had been told by a Skoda roadside engineer is that the error codes are cleared out 15 minutes after the car has been locked. I managed to get the car handed back and took possession of a new 26 plate Skoda Octavia. This one has the same 1.5 TSI engine but is the lower powered version at 116 PSW. I had to take the lower powered engine to keep the prices the same due to the facelift done on the Octavia. This new car has already thrown all the error messages on the dash when starting the engine up and now regularly shows that the front assist is not available. This happens whilst driving then clears but there is nothing blocking the radar. This new car has also got another issue that I have read on other forums for other models with the same engine. The new issue is the car cuts out when travelling at low speed especially approaching junctions / roundabouts or in heavy slow moving traffic. I have tried reaching out to the executive complaint team to try and hand the car back but they are now pushing me back to the branch. Given the error codes are wiped when the car is locked I don't see the point of letting them have the car to find nothing. I would like to find out if there are any other owners who are experiencing the same issues.

Only a month, its very low mileage for the age 43k, its got 2 months warranty on it still. Ive been doing some digging and would the n75 solenoid vibrating on the firewall cause this? Suppose ill check in the morning.

Hi everyone, I bought an RVC High camera (4M0980556A) on AliExpress and installed it according to the wiring diagram. After coding, the camera worked, but the image on my MIB 2.5 Amundsen was distorted/glitchy, and I had a few communication errors with other modules. I then reflashed the camera via ODIS-E to 5Q0980556B (as suggested on some forums) and loaded the dataset for the Octavia A7 FL. The communication faults went away and the dynamic guidelines appeared, but the image distortion remains the same. The only DTC left is for calibration. I'm currently working on a calibration tool, but I'm worried that calibration isn't the root cause of this image distortion. Has anyone experienced a similar issue, and what could be causing it? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Welcome to the forum. A 12 year old DQ200 DSG might well need new clutches. How long have you had the car and how many miles has it done?

Been a bit busy managed a few random shots before heading to Ireland via Bristol

Ok, so for further updates with new mechanic number 6: We took it to a new mechanic, who was apparently the first to check if combustion gases were actually getting into the expansion tank; we got that color change test kit, and it stayed blue. Next the mechanic first bypassed the EGR cooler. I drove the car for about five minutes, but the expansion tank immediately started filling with air and pressurising again. I drove it back, and he kept the car until the following day. He then also bypassed the water-cooled charge-air cooler integrated into the intake manifold, which is the large metal unit that takes the compressed air coming from the turbocharger. With both the EGR cooler and the charge-air cooler bypassed, the expansion tank is now holding coolant normally and, so far, is no longer filling with air.

Car has a weird humming noise when pressing accelerator, it dosent make the noise when idiling only when accelerating over 1k rpm. Have attached a video. VID-20260911-WA0023.mp4

Hi New member here. Drive a 26 plate Octavia 1.5 TSI 116 horsepower

We'd hoped to see the Battle of Britain Memorial flight today but Coningsby was all closed up (they might be staying in Duxford?) so we took a ride to Waddington and arrived just in time for their return! 1460650~4.mp4 1460707~3.mp4

The ECU might of been replaced or more likely removed and opened to be remapped as early on it could not be done via the OBD port.

Thanks for the tip. I have various good quality SD cards but they are all micro ones that I use with an adaptor, it seems to have been ok for maps updates, but as this is crucial I am going to buy a new full size San Disk one from Amazon. I am the same thinking about it, 99% of the time I use Carplay and the steering wheel controls so I dont think I will notice it too much hopefully!

This is the Octavia Mk 4 forum, you need to contact a mod and ask them to move this to the correct forum

Hi everyone, I would like to share my current diagnostic findings regarding a DSG7 (DQ200) issue on my Octavia and get some community feedback before I proceed with the repair. Vehicle & Transmission Details: Model: Škoda Octavia Combi (2014) Engine: 1.4 TSI (103 kW / 140 hp) Transmission: 7-Speed DSG (DQ200-MQB / 0CW) TCU Hardware: 0AM927769K (H43) TCU Software: 0CW300047E (v5260) Symptoms: On a cold start, odd gears (1, 3, 5, 7) are missing completely. The car only drives in even gears (2, 4, 6) and Reverse. After driving for about 10–15 minutes (once things warm up and the pump runs constantly) and restarting the engine, full gear functionality returns, but the fault codes remain stored in the module. OBDeleven Scan Fault Codes: P284F00: Shift Fork "A" Unrequested Movement P283C00: Shift Fork "B" Position Sensor Circuit Live Data Diagnostics (Ignition ON, Engine OFF): Hydraulic Pressure (Pressure supply, act. press.): Started at around 22 bar and rapidly dropped down to below 3 bar (eventually hitting nearly 0 bar within minutes). Normal operating pressure should be 42–60 bar. Clutch Wear Check (Point 3 - Point 0): Clutch 1 (K1): $22.9 mm - 7.5 mm = 15.4 mm Clutch 2 (K2): $23.5 mm - 11.3 mm = 12.2 mm Conclusion & Plan: The clutches appear to be in very healthy condition with plenty of remaining life. The issue is clearly a severe loss of hydraulic pressure caused by a cracked pressure accumulator housing on the mechatronics unit. My plan is to remove the mechatronics unit (leaving the gearbox in place) and install a reinforced repair kit (such as Kinergo steel adapter kit) along with fresh hydraulic fluid (VW G 004 000) and new seals. Questions for the forum: Does this diagnostic data 100% confirm a cracked accumulator housing as the sole root cause? Has anyone performed this specific repair with a reinforced kit on the 0CW / MQB platform? Is there anything else I should inspect or replace (e.g. shift fork bearings) while the mechatronics unit is off? Thanks in advance for your insights!