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I can't remember if they are H4 or H7 now coming to think of it. You able to drop some kits that work? I hate driving at night at the moment lol

I found HIDs were the best and cheapest option but that may have now changed.

@Tech1e Seems to be your to man for CC retro fits. Hoping to be able to book mine in with him and get it done.

+1 This - @Tech1e would you be so kind to reach out so I can look at getting CC fitted and my blower motor changes? TIA

That's usually the low pressure fuel pump priming the fuel system.

Halogen Headlights in projectors unfortunately. I do have AC, heated seats and TPMS though. I guess I can't complain too much.

Hi all - Mk2 Skoda Fabia 5J. I have the genuine VCDS cable and I'm looking to see if anyone has any ideas for some nice tweaks I can make, e.g Anti Hijack. Would be appraised if you could let me know of any that come to mind and how you went about coding it. Appreciated, Trent

Welcome. There's a decent chunk of MkII stuff in that forum. Did yours come with halogen headlights in projector housings or were you lucky?

Hi all. New to the group, browsing around. Own a Mk2 Fabia 1.4 TDI. Nice enough car, seems strangely spec'd though. Any advice or knowledge to be passed about these? I own VCDS Genuine too, so also any nice tweets to make here? Trent

Frightening experience today – got locked inside my car (2022 Octavia 1.5 TSi SEL). Unlocked ok (by touching door handle) and got in, then noticed the hazards flashed once, then I tried to start the car as usual with the key in my pocket and it was dead – just a sign on the dash saying “Key Not recognised”. Tried putting the key near the start button and still nothing. Fiddled with the key buttons to no avail, then found the doors and windows had all locked from inside and I couldn’t get out! I tried all sorts, then after a few minutes, whatever I did or didn’t do in my panic, it started as normal and everything was working again – and it has been ok since. The key battery appears to be well up, as the red light flashes ok and the fob works the locks from a considerable distance remotely, so I don’t suspect that the battery is tired. Barring a malfunction of some kind (this hasn’t happened in the six months I have had the car), I am wondering if any of the following might have triggered the problem? · Interference from another car in the car park. · I was parked close to a very heavy steel barrier. · My wife and I unlocked both the front doors (by touch) at the very same time as each other. Also, what exactly does “Please Check Safelock” mean on the dash every time I switch off and might this have a bearing? I would be grateful for any opinions and has this happened to anyone else? Thanks in advance.

If there aren’t any photos it didn’t happen 😉

Not been in here for a while... hit the magjc number last month. This is a 2016 CJXA 280. Just been to la rochelle in france and back, averaged 36 on the Autoroutes, cruise set to 132km/h. 4 up and lots of luggage. It used about half a litre of oil on the way down. It seems to use about a litre between services so around 6000 miles of town tootling and odd m-way trips as the uni- home taxi service. So 10 years nealry and 100k miles and still on original dsg shocks and springs, but getting slight rattles from the front on the awful roads we have so thinking about what bits might need replacing soon. Assuming the big lower wishbone with the big bushing, any other likely bits to do while we're in there? (All standard spec)

Could you please send me the link for SW 6276 L that supports DAB radio? Thank you.

Could you please send me the link for SW 6276 L that supports DAB radio? Thank you.

Fine, if that is the closed-mind approach, then I'm out of this thread, and you can all get back to making yourselves feel good about things. I have already made the changes to the system, so I now no longer follow this thread.

I personally would buy a vehicle without SFD 2.

I don't use travel or lane assist since I find that lane assist in particular is quite violent in 'tugging' the steering where the system detects a variation in lane keeping. In fact and in law I, as the driver, am solely responsible for maintaining the car in a safe condition, presenting no hazard to other road users. In the event of an accident I doubt whether a law court would accept my plea "the car did it, not me Guv", euro mandated or not.

If the supporting evidence is scientifically correct, verified and repeatable with the same results then whether it’s good or bad doesn’t come into it. But when evidence is gathered by “the one lone scientist who saw something 100’s of others didn’t” is the basis for claims, that rarely stands up to scrutiny. P hacking is an easy way to make a claim that supports a bias - ie stop testing when you get the result you wanted and ignore the data that you also got the doesn’t support it.

Could you please send me the link for SW 6276 L that supports DAB radio? Thank you.

My car was first registered in March 2025 and has covered 8500 miles. On locking the car I've noticed recently that the drivers door mirror squeaks quite loudly when folding. My problem is where to apply lubricating grease, and what type of grease to use. Can anyone assist me please ?

This was an a very interesting problem and a novel approach to resolving it.

Sorry, but I'm not kicking off, just making a statement. Factual information could be construed as misinformation by anybody who either does not want to accept that the information is factual even though it is supported by evidence. The name of this thread is "the truth about electric cars", so is it not a fact that some truths will be pleasant and accepted, while other truths won't be accepted but will still be true just the same?

Hi I haven’t managed to solve the problem. I am hoping someone else on the forum might have some ideas. Recently I personally checked the power to the fuel plug. When car is on it gets 14v on one pin and 1.7 on the other pin. This should mean the wiring is ok. The resistance of the fuel pump solanoid is 1.8ohms (measure across the pin) . Apparently this is within tolerance . My Research still suggests the replacement used fuel pump I bought is faulty. So it looks like I need to get a new replacement pump. I can only find cheap import fuel pumps for £70 to £90 (unbranded I think) Anyone suggest what else’s could be wrong or which fuel pump to buy?

I have a manual, and when I switch on the engine, I can also hear a motor running for a few seconds. I've always taken it to be the sensors waking up, which is why I never try to turn over the engine until the noise stops. However, I don't have a clunk after the motor noise does stop

Bloody eco warriors 😆