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The fault could be something as simple as a sticking turbo actuator arm, wait and see what the investigation shows before considering rejection.

An 18" space saver wheel (145/85R18 4Jx18 ET28) from the Kodiaq MK1/MK2 might fit, but you would need to check for clearance. The outside diameter of a 145/85R18 tyre is about 5% smaller than the standard Elroq tyres, so that's another possible problem. The Elroq's traction control might need to be turned off (if that's possible) for the car to even move. Skoda did use a 205/55R16 spare wheel for the Superb MK3, and that is also about 5% smaller than the car's standard tyre sizes...so it has been done before. The load index of a 145/85R18 space saver tyre is 103(875kg), so it can support the weight of an Elroq. 145/85R18 4Jx18 ET28 5/112 57.1 space saver wheel (Kodiaq MK1/MK2) https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/565601011k-spare-wheel-skoda-50288.html

Hi all, Just putting this out on the forum to see what everyone thinks and what things I can do to make my build better. I am aiming to buy a 2003-2004 fabia VRs pd130 and even though I’m a truck mechanic. This is my first time ever doing something with a diesel engine to make it into a performance engine. I’m hoping to push my build to high 200s low 300s. Any feedback at all is greatly appreciated and I will keep you posted on the build status.

All very good points. Totally agree.

I've just got my Jag back from its service and MOT everything is good, although the rear tyres are apparently quite worn But as is typical of a Jag dealership, the actual service is a bit patchy. I wonder if some of Jaguar's woes are because of this rather than their cars. I've had a couple of problems before with Jaguar and my car being in their hands and this time was not totally smooth either. The F Type is by far the most expensive car I've had and I did think I might get the same sort of excellent service I've had from BMW, but as usual....no. I dropped the car off and made a big point that I didn't want my car washed (the last time I did this they started to wash the car before I could stop them!!) anyhoo they put a big lable in the car saying not to touch it with a soggy sponge. No, my trouble this time was I asked them to let me know the moment the car was ready, as I was walking to the dealership and it was a couple of miles, which by the time I'd crossed a few roads probably means nearly 40 mins to get there. Sooo when it got to 17:00hrs I figured I'd better set off even though they hadn't bothered to ring me. On arrival, the service department seemed to be in the process of going home, at least I guessed this by their absence. Reception had certainly gone and it was thanks to the nice lady who makes tea, that she was able to find the service chap to sort my car out. Then came the bill, it was very big! Personally, if I worked in the service dept I'd have stayed all night if a customer was going to pay such a large invoice, but that's just me perhaps? I did query the bill however, when I was told that my AdBlue had been topped up, so they had to charge for it. I think you can guess what happened next..... 🤬 I realise in hindsight that it is possible, if unlikely, that it might not be obvious that I have a (very) petrol powered car, not a diesel

thank you

What SERVICE HISTORY do you have? What indication would you get that a vRS had a remap. CINCH never reset to Factory Settings. Has the VAQ Diff been serviced? Steering assist or brake assist might not be at Factory setting. This is what happens when buying used cars from Private sellers, Dealerships or car supermarkets. You do not know what you get until you can check everything out.

Hi, thanks for the response! Say it was the spark plugs, given the car failed straight after purchase, should I still be walking away, or are spark plugs a common issue? Regarding the E10, I actually filled it up form 1/4 empty to full with E10 myself on the way home. I’ve got no indication that it’s been remapped, so would assume it should run fine on E10. Could I get the garage to check the ECU for any previous tinkering when they take it away to code read it? Thanks 😊

Not Engine Light but It could be as simple as needing spark plugs. Misfires. It could be remapped and they have E10 Unleaded in.

The Arctic is really not like UK or Scottish cambered roads where they might be ploughed or gritted or not and thawing snow on ice is pretty much a common thing and what you might want Winter tyres for be them Snow or All season. During Covid the rather well known tyre tester took a Golf to The Ski Roads to do tyre tests. The Ski Road to Cairngorm Ski Centre was closed and The Lecht & Glenshee roads had no snow and if they had and were open they would have been plough and gritted. What i want to know is if the roads are open can i get up the roads and more important down safely. descending being the scary part as far as i am concerned. Driving roads that Posties, home deliveries and even the Police are on without Snow Tyres is hardly much of a trial.

A standard 19" Elroq front wheel could be used as a spare, ie. 235/55R19 101T 8Jx19 ET45 5/112 57.1 The wheel bolts for both the alloy and steel rims are the same. Alcar 9393 8Jx19 ET45 5/112 57.1 steel rim (14.0kg) (Elroq) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=1313955427855111280&rimCode=ALCAR9393 Continental AllSeasonContact 2 235/55R19 101T (Euro label A B 70dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m142b0s12770p221942/Continental_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Continental_Conti_All_Season_Contact_2_235_55_R19_101T_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_A_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB Elroq wheels 235/55R19 8Jx19 ET45 front, 255/50R19 8Jx19 ET45 rear 235/50R20 8Jx20 ET45 front, 255/45R20 9Jx20 ET42 rear 235/45R21 8.5Jx21 ET40 front, 255/40R21 9Jx21 ET42 rear

Funny that, YouTube offered me his 2026 winter tyre review just last night. The review was cut short because of rising temperatures on his Arctic test track but it was still really interesting and I see the video link is available from your own link to his front page. Importantly, our Goodyear Ultragrip 3's were the winner 😘

Hi all! Very new to the family (less than 24hours!), and it might be a flying visit… Yesterday I picked up my new car from Cinch, a 2018 ŠKODA Octavia VRS Petrol Manual, 230ps. I was all very excited, having come from a 31yo Volvo 850, to experience ‘modern reliabilty’. On my drive home from collection however, the EPC light came on, accompanied by a system error for the start/stop function. I pulled over to do some googling, and considered that it might be a low battery health causing it, but my symptoms were also as follows: [No EPC light on] I accelerated hard in third, the engine got up to high RPM before jerking, and releasing power [EPC light comes on]. I would then be put into what I assume is a type of limp mode, where I couldn’t do any real acceleration at all. Turning the car on and off again reset the issue (ie; no light, and system check saying no errors with start/stop), but accelerate hard again and it all reoccurs Cinch are taking the car to be code read and repaired imminently, but have assured me that I can exercise my right to return the car free of charge. I did my due diligence prior to purchasing from cinch, and was aware that this could happen as a customer - I just didn’t think it would happen to me, fatal mistake ! So MY QUESTION… Am I an absolute fool for considering keeping this car after the EPC issue has been diagnosed and fixed? I got a lovely spec, and thoroughly enjoyed driving it (albeit, for 30 minutes…), and part of me doesn’t want to go through the stress of waiting again for another to come up for sale in the spec I want. But the sensible side of me is completely aghast that I’d even consider keeping a car that has literally broken down within hours of taking delivery. So my question is, please can I get some advice (the harsher the better) as to whether I should be 100% taking this back, or whether I should wait to see what they diagnose the EPC error as before making any decisions. Thanks all, from one disheartened, but otherwise impressed, recent ŠKODA owner!

That’s very useful to know. Thanks for the info.

S50 is for inside cills and all the box sections. HAve a look at the Bilt Hamber site for details. There is a fair bit to read.

On my 2013 MY Yeti with climatronic I know that when I hold the AC and 'air recirculation' button, it goes into flap calibration mode for a while. However when doing this I once accidentally pressed the 'air to windows' button instead of 'air recirculation' and this appears to do something different, perhaps a diagnostic menu? However I haven't found any description of what this is or managed to relate it to anything in VCDS. for a few seconds, the LEDs in both buttons flash and it appears to show different values on the display. Does anybody know or have a description of these values? Are there any other climatronic features that don't appear in the user manual?

If stopped on a hill and hill hold assist is working, holding the car for a couple of seconds it needs the accelerator touched to move off,

Torque wrenches for undoing glow plugs (for example) are reversible and click both ways, respectable ones are also calibrated both ways. shear torque is under 35Nm, we're not talking subframe bolts here. There is nothing wrong with undoing glow plugs to a specified shear torque, which by the way is 2-3 times higher than the tightening torque but still relatively small, see earlier thread on this :https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/511440-glow-plug-replacement/#findComment-5848987 For a low to medium torque such as glow plugs, it is perfectly possible to apply almost symmetric load by holding one hand on the handle of the wrench and the other hand on the top of the pivot. I agree than using just the handle of the wrench results in far more asymmetric load and may break the plug. The problem with T-bar is that although the load is symmetric, you may easily apply way more than is needed and shear the plug. It is far better to attempt using a reversible torque wrench set below shear torque and if the glow plug does not move, put some more penetrant oil around it and drive around a bit more. For a DIY mechanic, far better to wait a day or two than to snap the glow plug IMHO. Also, on a hot engine, you will find that the glow plug movement is far more gradual affair, most of the horror stories about glow plugs snapping during removal are from "mechanics" trying to undo them on a cold engine, without penetrant oil. Under these adverse conditions, even undoing a solid steel bolt that's been in place for many years is a hit and miss affair. In summary: warm up the engine, use penetrant oil and a double sided torque wrench set below max allowed torque and held with 2 hands, one on the axis of rotation. This is all that is needed to avoid your own snapped glow plug horror story. HTH.

Thank you.

Great, but no point in trying to get to the threads via head end of bolt. Gotta go in from open end of thread in console.

I would suggest putting aside £800-£1600 at least for a new clutch pack by 150,000 miles. If it’s done a lot of city driving it could be a lot sooner. I bought a Fabia DSG which had mostly done motorway miles. Now at 125,000 and on the original clutch pack with no problems or codes. Besides a test drive; setting off on an incline with no gas peddle. Any noise? Is it smooth changing? I’d personally buy a code reader and give the car you like a scan to see if there are any codes on the transmission module. A worn clutch pack won’t put on engine check light necessarily.

Hey Briskoda community! I am new here Little background, I have a new 2026 Skoda Karok, with the MIB3 system. I have an issue while driving, randomly, my system freeze and not responsive, I can't do anything, my music is muted OR my phone call stoped. To fix it I did a restart via a long press on the power knob. Is that a known thing with Karok MIB3? For example I saw this instructions: https://servicereset.net/maintenance/skoda-karoq-2017-present-infotainment-reset/ When I gone to the Skoda garage, first they update the system to 0519, but it happaned again, then they tried to blame it on my IPhone 15 Pro phone becuse i was connected with AppleCarPlay, however, I dont believe my phone can break the whole system, I would figure if that was the case, only the carplay would reset and the system would work. I had a Golf 2017 before that and didnt have any issues with the system. I would appriceate if you can give me any insights about this behavior and if the garage is correct or not. Thanks!

@sussamb owns both, so should be well placed to answer any questions.

Metal grey, matte, match with the mirrors (golf r doing that with the blue, looks cool)

Going for the matte black instead of the red. Looks mean! Stage 2, +300ps, +500nm, now on Michelin PS5, 245/35/19. Next on the list: Sachs performance clutch, upgraded turbo (Garret G2260) and Bilsteins B8