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Even by telephone if you say to your mechanic "i listen a Yyyyn" sound when the car rolls in low-mid speed and stops when i brake he will answer "ball bearing". That's the first thing that will do,the sound is characteristic no matter if it's car or motorcycle and there is a specific (funny) slang expression: "this ate it's own bread" which means "his life is finished". Fitting a ball dearing it's a serious task because in case of mistake you need triple work-time to remove it plus the cost,in repair/machine-shops here No newbie employee is allowed to do it. He only carries from the self to the hands of the mechanic,mustn't be dropped down not even thrown to the bench carelessly.

i have an RPM Anti-drone Resonator Delete Pipe on mine. mine being the FWD 220, i got the version that is for the mk3 Octavia RS. combined with the IE downpipe, it has changed the exhaust note, but not crazy, as i still have the twin factory mufflers at the back. i might one day change the muffler back boxes....

actually its very likely possible, especially if ur car is "old" now. normally the VIN number has an expiry on the skoda update portal. u'll get updates up until a certain date, after which it will tell u no more.

As far as I can remember, I also had to delete some countries to make space and then just copied over all the files without the dropdown menus open

Hi Tim ( @kempus ), I've asked my AI assistant to investigate this because my own 2026 Superb L&K behaves differently. Here's what it found: AI ASSISTANT RESPONSE BEGINS HERE: The issue appears to be the distinction between the Individual driving profile and the Individual ambient lighting setting. When ambient lighting is set to MODE, the car automatically selects a colour according to the driving profile: Eco – Green Comfort – Blue Normal – White Sport – Red Individual – White So your experience is entirely consistent with the way Škoda has programmed the system. However, there's a solution! Rather than choosing MODE in the ambient lighting settings, select Individual within the ambient lighting menu itself. You can then choose your preferred colours and brightness independently of the driving profile. For example, we have selected red ambient lighting in our own Superb L&K, and it remains red regardless of whether I'm driving in Normal, Sport or Individual mode. I found confirmation of all this on the German Škoda Community forum. A Superb Mk4 L&K owner, posting as stbufraba, describes exactly how the system works, including the five MODE-linked colours and the ability to select colours independently. Here's the discussion (see post #9): https://www.skodacommunity.de/threads/ambientebeleuchtung-l-k-farbanzahl-erweiterung.151263/ In short, you don't need to put up with the bright white lighting when driving in Individual mode. Just separate the ambient lighting colour selection from the driving profile. Hopefully this resolves one of your frustrations! END OF AI RESPONSE I hope this helps. Best wishes, David.

Ah I see. Thankyou.

No, I meant you just go to the service menu to find the software train. Then enter it into the MiB helper website. This will then guide you to the right maps and software versions.

Possibly. Wouldn't surprise me if I entered it wrong. Didn't think mine would have updates via the unit as its a 2016 .

Unusual that your VIN wasn’t recognised. Are you certain you got it correct? Perhaps 0 and o mixed up? Also you can find/ source the map updates: Press and hold the MENU button for about 3 to 10 seconds, then select Software update or System information / Service mode to view the installed SW train string Enter it here https://mib-helper.com This will give you latest software version and latest maps. Also has links to how to videos for updates. From personal experience, make sure your battery is in good condition and fully charged, and charger connected when updating MiB firmware. The maps update will carry on in the background as and when the car is on so that’s less crucial!

Only joined the page yesterday, mainly to get an answer to this question, as when I put my VIN in. It wasn't recognised. Followed your link and its worked as it should. So once my sd card arrives. I will be giving this a go. I emailed my local main dealer. But they were unable to help. Cheers

I finally worked out how to get the red led's when in Sport mode by setting the ambient lighting to Mode to link it to the driving profile. But, why oh why when you are on indiviual driving profille (which I use a lot) does it not use your individual colours but the brightest blinding white which makes the whole feature completly useless IMHO. Any why can't they still make switching in and out of daylight saving automatic! I have a 2025 L & K with the new logo in the steering wheel. Just grumping Tim

Yes, I think the two descriptions could be related, although they are not exactly the same. In my case, when we removed the left front wheel, we noticed that the hub was sitting a few millimetres further out than on the right-hand side. The hub was not seated correctly in the wheel carrier, and this appeared to leave some play in the brake caliper assembly. We replaced the hub and bearing with new parts, making sure the new hub was seated correctly, just like on the right-hand side. The play disappeared, and after a long test drive, the noise has not returned so far. So, the second explanation is consistent with what I found, but I cannot say for certain whether the original problem was caused by the bearing being pressed incorrectly, a problem with the old hub, or another issue with the fitment. The important thing is that replacing the hub and bearing resolved the symptoms, at least for now. Thanks for comparing the two explanations!

Good news ! English are not my primary language (i am self-taught by books) but can you compare the 2 posts? Is the 2nd the solution as the 1st says?

Yes you can jump releases. There is an information screen you can bring up that shows the current release. You are suppose to do that to check before and after.

Hi, Thanks for the tips! I’ve checked the battery, and it’s in good condition. I’ve now scheduled an appointment at a Skoda service center—partly because there’s an active recall for my model—and asked them to perform a targeted diagnostic regarding the errors mentioned above. I’m hoping to get more detailed results there than what you’d get from a standard, off-the-shelf diagnostic scanner (like one from Bosch, for example). The recall involves replacing a bolt on the steering gear; I assume that’s unrelated to the issues I’m experiencing—what do you think? I’d be grateful for any further ideas or advice! Best regards

Thank you for your reply On the part with th metal key, there is: >PA86-GF50< On the part with the 3 buttons: >PA-GF/TPE< On the part holding the battery: 01 563 802 and >PA6-GF/GK30<

There is information on here. If you search. The solenoid is knackered. Change it. About £50 new or cheaper for a pattern part. Very common issue.

Glow plugs on modern cars aren’t just to start the engine. They maintain the cylinder temp for a duration after initial start up and after moving off for some time.

“Never Stop Fighting and Believe in Yourselves,” Says New Champion Robert Virves “Never Stop Fighting and Believe in Yourselves,” Says New Champion Robert Virves The club of world champions who have won titles in Škoda rally cars has welcomed another name. Meet Robert Virves, who has won both the WRC2 and WRC2 Challenger titles*. He secured the victory of a lifetime at an especially fitting moment, in the very year that Škoda Motorsport celebrates 125 years. https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/lifestyle/never-stop-fighting-and-believe-in-yourselves-says-new-champion-robert-virves/

My 2019 Skoda Kamiq is fitted with a genuine Skoda factory harness that runs from the dash fuse box and BCM to the back of the car? Fitted by me. I have information that the correct trailer module is 5Q0907383L. I don’t want to purchase this and to then find that it cannot be coded due to incompatibility with the BCM , CANBUS etc. Note that i can find multiple listings of module 5Q0907383L but a 5Q0907383L being sold for a Fabia has different codes on it than a 5Q0907383L being sold for a different model. Very confusing.

Today I plugged in a flash drive containing maps from 23.06 (if I recall correctly, I currently have 24.12 installed) I wonder if the MIB3 system will actually update to older maps? I didn't think that was possible. I’ll keep you posted on any progress; my commute to work takes 30 minutes, so I’ll give it a few days.

Can you share this version? Thank you!

Hi . Can anyone tell me where the Auxiliary water pump is located on a 2018 Fabia petrol 1.0 TSi please? I've got an Fault code on OBD 11 P2B6300 telling me there is a problem with the Auxiliary water pump. I want to check the connections and replace the pump if necessary, but don't actually know where it is! Thanks in advance. Tim

Hi everyone, I think we have finally found the cause of the noise! When we removed the left front wheel again to replace the brake caliper, we noticed that the wheel hub was sitting a few millimetres out instead of being fully seated in the wheel carrier. This seemed to affect the position of the brake caliper, leaving some play in the assembly. We removed the right front wheel to compare both sides. On the right-hand side, the hub was seated correctly in the carrier, with no gap. We then bought a new wheel hub and bearing and had them fitted by a machine shop. The new hub seated fully in the carrier, just like the one on the right-hand side. The play in the brake caliper assembly also disappeared. After the repair, I drove the car for quite a long distance, and so far, the noise has completely disappeared. My suspicion is that the old hub was not seated correctly, affecting the position of the brake disc relative to the caliper and causing intermittent rubbing or vibration while driving. This would explain why the noise stopped as soon as I lightly applied the brakes and changed when I turned the steering wheel. Before finding this, I had already replaced the front brake discs, pads, caliper pistons and wheel bearings, but none of these repairs had solved the problem. The wheel carrier itself is the only major component on that side that has not been replaced. I'm sharing this in case it helps anyone else experiencing a similar intermittent metallic scraping noise. Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions and advice!

HI all, Hoping someone can shed some light as I'm desperately out of my depth. My car is a 2004 Skoda Octavia 1.9 TDi 110 81kw asv 1u5. After a head gasket replacement and timing belt change, I'm trying to set the timing using the graph in VCDS. No matter what I do with the pump, the graph will only show 38 and on the bottom it says "timing within spec: slightly retarded. Nothing I do changes that. I have adjusted the pump to retarded where it won't start and advanced where it clatters. I've tried in between those points but can't change that graph from 38. The car drives well enough but has some slight hesitation under 2000rpm but fine after that. Idle is a horrible, feels like the engine wants to shake itself out. I believe my G81 fuel temp sensor is lazy so I'll be changing that when the triangle bolt tool arrives. I had the injectors refurbed. I've tested the needle lift wire and get a resistance reading of 117 so that's fine from what I've read. I have a very low injection quantity reading which bounces from 0 to under 2. I tried changing the adaptation number but that didn't make much difference. When I first looked it was set to 32668. I've read the iq number should be between 3 & 5 and the "hammer mod" may be required? I've wondered if I'm a tooth out on the timing, but AI says the car wouldn't run if it was a tooth out. Any ideas on where to look and what to check would be massively appreciated. Cheers