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I have not heard any credible supports of such. All our EVs and numerous home batteries seem very good at copping with electrical inputs and tvay xan be wrong polarity, voltages outside range. My experience over lastc5 years. I am concerned about this move by the UK Grid to continue to rachet done the voltage from 240v down towards mainland Europe's 220v as I think that could cause a number of issues.

Chargers can send spikes into the battery and cause damage, and also chargers, especially home chargers, and really especially those that have been self-installed have done a lot of damage to themselves, and I daresay that they even caused fires that may have destroyed/damaged their homes.

Read online that it might be high pressure fuel pump not keeping pressure when engine off when warm. Pressure dropping due to heat/failure when engine off and takes 2-3secs to get to full pressure again. Think you can monitor pressure with vcds. Could also be sticking diverter valve.(GFB) DV+ According to google its something to do with brass piston in alloy casing that can stick when hot due to metals expanding at different rates. If it was installed dry it may need lubricating with engine oil or HT silicone.?? (acording to google so pinch of salt may be required) Alasdair

A set of 4 high quality Brock B36 alloy wheels in Hyper Silver and fitted with near new Hankook Ventus Prime 4 tyres. Larger 55 aspect gives quiet, easy going ride compared to lower profile tyres - better pothole resistance ! Really good looking wheels that will enhance any car's looks. Hankook Ventus Prime tyres are in good order with circa 6mm tread and no repairs. One wheel only has very small mark, all others perfect.. Originally fitted to a Skoda Karoq, these wheel should fit similar size VAG vehicles BUT please check details of offset, stud pattern etc before purchase as I cannot offer return refund. Wheel specs : 7.5x17 5x114.3>112 ET38 Brock B36 (Hyper Silber HS) (72.6cb) (NaNkg Load) (11.0kg Weight) (60d Seat) (0 Cap) (DE) Skoda valve caps included. £400 or near offer. Can deliver within 25 miles of Pulborough West Sussex for £10, or you can collect from Pulborough

Definitely not a DIY job, the system must first be vacuumed-out (usually for several hours or overnight) to remove any moisture after replacing the condenser and the drier - the vacuuming also confirms if the system will hold pressure or not - then the correct gas/lubricant charge has to be measured into the system. All the above requires specialist equipment.

Hi @pab567 , wondering if you still do something like this. I have a MIB2 unit that I would like to upgrade for a bigger screen, maybe 9.2" and to potentially look at installing VC if thats something you could assist with. Any help would be appreciated. Car is Skoda Octavia Mk3 2017

Picking the sweet spot is the aim.

You'll certainly use it a lot, since towing destroys the range.

Really quite small, not much bigger than a shoe box. Certainly lesson learned about charging up when one stops for even 15 minutes and half full if it is going to give one enough to complete the whole journey and battery is going to be warm to accept good charge rate although the charging from 59% to 90% or invariably slower than the charging from 19% to 50% is the reality. Nice cheap sub 10p a KWh today and looks even cheaper for tomorrow 4th of September and even cheaper than that, possibly negative, on the weekend ahead. Hopefully some plunge pricing at public charges due to over abundance of wind and solar generation as we approach the autumnal equinox.

Tesco was not the only supermarket with duff fuel. I once cross-fuelled a diesel car and had to be towed to an AA depot, where they drained the tank and flushed the fuel lines before I could continue my journey. I was actually on my way to a job interview in Birmingham at the time 🫨.

Tow one of these behind you

Only of fuel pumps giving engine wrecking fuel as Tescos did and I think there gas been other similar instances. DC and AC charges seem to work or not work and I have not heard of battery wrecking over amperage or over voltages thankfully. EVs systems seem good at controlling the amperage and voltages where ICE vehicles will readily accept contaminated fuel, fuel with water in it or the wrong fuel entirely petrol in a diesel car is it not but other way round does not happen due to different nozzle sizes.

Hi guys and gals. Not posted on here for a while as my 2016 Skoda Octavia estate, has been issue free since I bought it 6 years ago. Just recently though, the infotainment system has been playing up. It switches on no problem, but takes ages to load from the sd card 2 where I store my music. It also turns itself off and on when I am driving, meaning that I have no sat nav. This happens every few minutes now, but it turns itself back on again straight away, only for it to repeat the same operation minutes later. I have checked YouTube and performed the reset by pressing and holding the on off button until it switches itself back on, but it’s still doing it. It’s driving me crazy. Any advice would be most welcome. Cheers Skiprat.😉

All of the issues with duff chargers, etc., have been reported before by @Evolution13 and by one or two others, plus numerous vloggers such as Dave Takes It On, etc., and yet still there are those who live in denial and often complain that these events never happen and the grid can cope perfectly. Only today @Evolution13 mentioned that he was sharing a 22KWH charger but was only actually getting 3KW each, and he regularly posts about issues with chargers, etc. When has anybody ever heard about a pump spitting out fuel at dramatically reduced rate because of an ICE car pulling up on the opposite side of a pump at the same time?

Still adding weight and taking up space in an already pretty small boot. Better not to try and not play "count the pennies saved" by avoiding that little extra top-up to give yourself that safety margin. Come on you know the rule: keep the battery between 20% and 80%, and there's the ABC rule (always be charging) whenever you stop.

My a/c condenser has a leak, it's been checked and it's not the compressor or the evaporator core. The system is empty no pressure in it. How hard is it to replace it, I was thinking of doing it myself (haven't looked into yet) as the garage wants £355, plus the condenser, plus the gas. All told over £700, I was thinking after replacing it I could get one of those kits from Amazon to recharge it. Has anyone replaced one and can give some tips, be much obliged or do you think it's a no go for diy?

Skoda Octavia 2019 MK 3.5

Not the 5 kwh battery with 6 kw supply but the little sub 20 kg power supplies, only longer journeys, no problem, don't take up much space, make sure one has the tyre pressures pumped up but one is only adding 1% or so to the weight as most EVs are already in the 1.5T to 2T zone. Not like the days when my mini, ford escort etc weight less than half the current vehicle weights. Would only be on those odd months I do a 200 miles plus journey having learnt that public chargers are still nowhere near 99% reliable.

Hi. I’ve managed in one go to crack the windscreen and break the passenger side bonnet latch on my daughter’s Scala. Don’t ask how!! I have a replacement hood latch lower portion and wondered if there was any guidance on fitting. In particular it looks like there are two slots for release cables but I have so far only seen one cable on the broken part. Photo shows the two slots.

Hi all, I'm getting intermittent P200200 fault codes and occasional CEL that resets with Torque or OBDEleven apps for a couple of regens. From what I can tell online, this indicates a EGR blockage/fault issue rather than DPF itself. VAG DPF app shows that measured soot climbs faster than calculated soot in the DPF - the measured often going negative after a proper DPF regen. Soot mass is <60% according to the app, so seems like DPF doesn't imminently need work. Car is at ~110k miles and no plans to change in the next couple of years - the sensible answer is to keep it as long as it's a reliable workhorse. What I'm pondering over is how much money to sink into resolution. New EGR valve/cooler? Cleaned EGR/cooler (s this a thing?) New EGR and new/cleaned DPF. I'm happy to spend money on what actually needs fixing, but I have trust issues with unnecessary fixes, and snake-oil "DPF cleaning" salesmen, and so on... Does anyone have any experience, thoughts or wisdom? I use a small local garage for general servicing, but not a specialist - so any recommendations near Nottingham are also welcome. BW, Jono

I can't believe you are suggesting the average person will carry that lot about... What a load of tosh

Having been let down by Gridserve twice last Sunday, chargers said payment verified, took my ten pound deposit then said not playing, very poor service. They are suppose, like all CSPs, to be 99% reliable but they clearly are not. Whwether it is Grid overload or Russian hacking or too much local load to take on another EV on that bank of chargers it is a mystery as to what happens when the DC charger shout not playing. 5 days later these £10 deposits are showing pending or processing. Crap. Should have gone to the Tesla chargers at Frankley, even at peak time they are only 66p per KWh, 34P at the 10 pm to 7:59 am period. Made several charging mistakes that day but at least I know the real limti of my Urban 40 Kwh R5 which proved to be just over 20 miles past 0% SoC being shown. Got going again thanks to my VTOMAN 2200W which supplied 8A on my granny charger ie just under 2 KW supply for about 20 minutes which, presumably with a bit of chemical recovery in the depleted battery got me the last half mile home no problem. Did not even bother to put in the VTOMAN 2200 slave battery which would give me a total of 3 KWh and as each weights less than 18 Kgs are easyish to carry. Their day job is saving money on downstairs larger electricity consuming devices ie TV, my computer setup but not the Sky, BT or router as they are low powered but good to be able to pop them in the boot, even the Mini's boot, and take that power out to where it is needed. Need power units which are atleast half as big again ie with more than 3 KW stable output and a 2 KWh battery capacity so over 4KWh in total. Hopefully not over 22 Kgs in weight plus more solar than the VTOMAN 2200W one which can only take 400W of solar. Expect there will be megadeals for the Black Friday and Cyber Monday sales. Wpould also like to add a portable ie on wheel but probably 50 Kgs or so home battery to add to my smaller one already have. The Aferiy PH062 looks a bit of kit... Should pay for itself in a few years and give me peace of mind if we actually get the blackouts we got close to this summer. Not too difficult to move to a new house. I could genuinely charge the EVs with gathered solar electricity with this and even at 3.7 KW or maybe more. 5.12kWh LiFePO4 battery with up to 6,000 charge cycles for long-lasting performance 6200W AC output power to support high-power home appliances and backup needs Up to 6500W PV input with built-in 120A MPPT solar charge controller for efficient solar charging Dual AC outputs with pure sine wave inverter for stable and reliable power supply Portable design with built-in handles and universal wheels for easy movement Smart BMS provides comprehensive protection for the battery and entire system Supports WiFi & GPRS connectivity with smart app control Wide PV input voltage range (60–500V DC) for flexible solar system integration Dust protection kit included, suitable for harsh outdoor environments RGB lights clearly indicate different operating modes Dimensions (H × W × D): 780 × 440 × 230mm; Net weight: 58.5kg

12years, 50000km, EA888 Gen2 1.8t, 6at Such perfect !!!

What a load of total guff IMHO, unless maybe doing some world travelling in a region that is not the UK. Scotland just happens to have 32 local authorities and many of these have no commitment to helping get to net zero with the upkeep of public ev chargers. £5 minimum charge here and i am at £6 after nearly 3 hours. Now 12 kWh of a charge. The other car must have unplugged and now i am getting 6 kW i expect.

Getting economic and logical to carry a power station and ones own solar panels perhaps. With the right battery ie one that can supply 3.7 kws, and granny cable doing 16A and maybe some foldout portable solar panels one can have an onboard backup in the boot. Also versions of onboard software coming out every few months and updated battery packs every 2 years the problem goes away.