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Interesting….

Hi. If you need any help with insurance at all then please feel free to drop me a line. Regards, Dan.

I have a similar problem, but mine is the fuse overheating. I have cleaned the contacts a few times to little and now to no avail. Any suggestions on how to bypass the allocated fuse or a fix?

Not sure if or how it might help, but here's an image from an ebay listing for a fuel tank that shows the fairly large array of pipework that may be involved. I guess the fuel feed from pump to filter and fuel return from filter are obvious, then I think the white one that goes past those and down the front of the tank must be the EVAP breather line from charcoal canister heading for the purge valve in the engine bay, and the two connections on the top appear to go to the filler neck fairly close to the filler flap, part of the tank venting system I suppose.

Yes

If it’s as flexible as he claims I wonder if you can code any buttons on standard steering wheel to act as dsg change on a wheel without dsg paddles 🤔

I don’t need but I thought it would be useful for others.

Can i make also

Hi bazz2004 Thanks for the advice. I had been down the proper legal channels but because there is no solid physical evidence of the fault it's just my word, and I am just a woman! So they had my car in for a few days, gave me a courtesy car, and drove mine around for a couple of hundred of miles and eventually said they thought I was catching the speed limiter switch when flicking the indicator which was on 20mph and gave the same kind of feeling I described during limp mode......I had an awakening.....what am I doing trying to fight this big cooperation with no power behind me except advice from cab over the phone. I'd had enough I took the courtesy car back, was told if I have any more trouble to go back , I took my car and nothing has happened to the fabia in the 2 weeks since. I could not stand the pressure of it any longer, just not worth the stress....and that's exactly what they hope to happen!

As I’m always one to resurrect an old thread… Was browsing instagram the other day and came across a bloke who has made an open source lin to can/can to lin etc adaptor. Universal for any PQ/MQB steering wheel to any steering wheel. looks interesting. https://forbes-automotive.com/products/lin-mfsw-controller https://www.instagram.com/reel/DdR4JF5sBRx/?psln=MTFnbzJ1bjF2MjZzeA== Also doing some very interesting stuff with haldex controllers

Hi. First post here. Hoping someone can help My car is a 1.2 HTP mk 2 2010 Fabia estate. There is a leak from the fuel tank which happens when I am filling it. It only leaks when the tank is just about full. Petrol comes out under the car. Looks like it is emerging at the front of the tank. Looses a couple of litres then stops so the source must be quite high up. Some petrol pools in the well for the fuel pump but it’s definitely not leaking through the pump seal. That leaked petrol seems to get there through a small hole which is in the metal panel under the seat about 6 in back from the fuel pump. Hopefully someone can suggest what the problem. And how easy/difficult a fix it could be. Dropping the tank looks like a right pain….. Thanks!!

I'd suggest having the battery properly tested first.

Unfortunately, there is little chance of you getting any resolution from a dealership - or Skoda themselves. The service department will run diagnostics which will pick up no faults and their excuse will be something along the lines of – there’s nothing showing as a fault so there’s nothing to fix. You have a low battery level showing on our equipment that may be causing your issues. Or, because you are making too many short journeys the car will have issues. I bought a start-stop CTEK charger and later replaced the battery with a top of the range AGM model. The frequent software and electronic glitches continued and finally another frightening limp mode breakdown. So, I spent a fair amount of money following “expert” advice from Johnson’s Skoda Wolverhampton and got nowhere apart from some pretty confrontational meetings with successive service managers who didn’t stay for very long. I’m pleased that I spent none of this extra money at the dealership. It was a mistake to replace a very old car with a model full of over complicated and glitchy electronics. We live and learn. I’d suggest getting rid of the Fabia in favour of an older low mileage car with basic tech which works. There are loads of cars in our neighbourhood that are about 10 years old and look in pristine condition. Manufacturers used to plug reliability and build quality but cars are no longer built to last. It’s three-year warranties to go with 3-year payment plans. After three years you are expected to “buy” a new car. Effectively it’s never-ending HP for a disposable vehicle. The alternative is to do battle with the dealer and Skoda which will be an exhausting process. The last couple of years were hell for us because the Fabia could have easily let us down in a tricky traffic situation. The size, speed and volume of HGVs on today’s roads is hard to believe. There’s much to be said for getting a car about 10 years old which isn’t riddled with twitchy electronics and software so long as it has a dry timing belt. Skoda did get that bit right with the Fabia. We did get a software update on the drive from an AA silver service technician following the last limp mode episode. So far, the limp mode issue hasn’t recurred. The update fixed an issue with the throttle body assembly and became available mid-2024. It seems that even Skoda trained staff, when servicing cars, fail to check that such updates are available and have been applied. Maybe they just don’t know what’s going on at Skoda or what updates are available for particular models. Our car still does things like changing the digital dash layout at random and giving nonsense guidance for changing gear at particular speeds. It’s hard to know how to proceed but doing nothing isn’t an acceptable option. If they can't fix the issue perhaps insist that the dealer changes the car. Nobody should have to drive a car that they believe has a potentialy lethal fault. Good luck.

Crank voltage across terminals dropped to 10.30V , that's in the 10 to 10.5V range that AI said aftermarket radios shut down. Earth connector - had a look diagonally across engine bay. Only thing I can think of is there is a circular washer that is crumpled / rippled. Might have put it on wrong way place reducing contact area? Other earth points don't have this. Order as follows nut - washer - starter earth cable contact - earth point. Maybe washer goes between last 2? I could add another earth cable between starter and earth point? Starter live wire spade - the starter has a smaller spade. Oddly

My Scala is 3 years old on the 13th,and I will be looking to take out the all in service plan so is it worth waiting until black Friday incase of any discount deals? Thanks Barry

I am set to take delivery of a Skoda Fabia Monte Carlo 1.5 TSI (150 hp); delivery is estimated for January 2027. I joined this forum to gather some preliminary information. Once I’ve put a few kilometers on the car, I’ll return to share my impressions—and perhaps ask a few questions.

Dedicated Wifi, which is wired into the main car loom.

Personally I’m not sure but there are plenty on here who would have more knowledge than I! Does it have dcc currently or just standard shocks?

I agree. Would you recommend any particular Bilstein part number for my Greenline Estate? Bearing in mind it sits a little bit lower than the standard car (for the fuel economy). And that it's a comfy spacious cruising car and not a performance model, with the 1.6 TDi engine.

How does the wiring for the new buttons get through the clockspring?

Heated steering wheel I got for a great price brand new. Had the stitching re-done to match my paint, Dragon Skin Green. Installing additional buttons for drive mode and Stop/Start. Not a brilliant fit on the casing for the buttons, the optimal position for this bracket would then have one of the screws go thru a mount guide for the MFSW centre surround. I also struggled to get the screws to go in to mount the button on the wheel, I had to drill out the holes for width and depth to suit the screws. Right PITA.

I ran Michelin Cross Climates on our mk2 Octavia 4x4 and was very impressed with them, replacing them a few times over the years. Wear rate was good, they were quiet and good in bad weather. I was going to put the same on our Kodiaq but spotted a Costco bargain on Goodyear Vector 4 Seasons so am trying those. I've only had them on since earlier this year so no idea on how they perform in snow but they seem quiet and good in wet weather thus far and seem to be wearing OK too. My mum has Bridgestone Weather Control A005 on her Jazz and has had no issues either.

Thx for the info @milloo24 To clarify, my car has rear top LED from factory. I just need to find an inner lamp assembly 5E6 945 308C(RHD) at good price to complete "both fog lamps" tiny retrofit.

Sounds like a good justification for some bilsteins!

left inner light LHD and RHD use same part number 5E6 945 307 A (hatchback) right inner light 5E6 945 308 A (LHD) 5E6 945 308 C (RHD) outer lights are same for LHD,RHD even should be same with estate