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https://www.tyres-pneus-online.co.uk/tyre-equivalence-advice.html https://www.willtheyfit.com/ A 225 on a 7.5J isn't stretched - the Gemini wheel is just a slightly unusual design with a very prominent outer lip. On an 8.5J I would be running 245. An 8.5J ET45 will have 18.7mm more poke and be 6.7m further inwards. I'd personally pair an 8J with a 235, but you'll be fine with an 8.5J providing it is ET45. Any less than that can cause scrubbing.

Bit late to this, sorry. I use the inserts on my Octavia. Rather than having them in permanently, I have sliced the flange off and am able to pop them in an out as required. The first time I used them, I pushed one into the hole and ended up having to drill and cut it out. The pinch welds are only designed to be used when on a proper lift, or in an emergency. Everything else should be done via the frame points, or the subframe. I have the cut out/slotted jack pad, which only ruins the underseal. The insert is the one you want, but make sure you don't get it stuck like me. They can go at the front, or the rear, and the rear has two positions for them.

There is a logic to the process to get the longest life from your tyres with a decent tread. FWD front tend to wear first and often at the outer edges first. Back ones wear very slowly and normally more even. RWD rear tyres wear first and the front wear at the outer edges first New tyres only have 8-9mm and you should really change at 3mm So on a FWD when they are due to change the front the back will probably be at 5mm so you put the back on the front and new on the back, within a few month you need new front again so you do it again and have bought your full set spread over a few months. RWD you need rears first so you probably just do that and when the front need changing later put the new on the back and the slightly used backs on the front. If rotated properly you will need four at a time (If i was someone who ran the tyres down to 1.6mm before changing i would put the new on the front)

Any chance of getting the firmware update sent over having problems with no sound via Bluetooth if I have the track listing showing many thanks

I think you misunderstood "most worn tyres on the front", if the new tyres go on the back then the ones on the front must now be the "most worn". However Chris49 is intending to change all 4 but trying to even up the wear until that is necessary - so new tyres on back advice is irrelevant.

Don't think that "most worn tyres being on the front " is what is advised? "New tyres" go on the back and the least worn go on the front

I use front to back exchange at 15k miles (ish) on my Octavia, and have done similar on all previous cars. Yes - change to some decent all-seasons as soon as you can, most summer tyres are rubbish when it's cold and wet, let alone actually wintery or muddy. Yes you need to check pressures and set TPMS through the menus on touch screen. As for having the least worn tyres at back or front - if you rotate as advised (advice on Briskoda or Skoda manual) you will inevitably have it sometimes one way and sometimes the other, but the difference in wear should not be great and if you replace the tyres in good time rather than waiting until they are near legal limit (which is pretty useless in wet or winter) you shouldn't notice the difference.

I’ve never liked the idea of the most worn tyres being on the front which is where you need the best grip for traction, steering and braking. I understand the logic is front end under steer is easy to deal with than rear and oversteer.

Under estimated demand so are now prioritising their own customers orders?

Late March!!!!!! Ordered an Epiq through Octopus EV, just had a call. Originally December delivery, now due Late March!!! Issues across all Skoda vehicles apparently (or maybe just EVs?) Oh well, just have to keep the Mazda running until then.

EBay listed Please see link to my Porsche wheels and adapters I took off my MK2 Fabia If a briskoda member is interested I will give a good discount Up for £550 currently!

New battery ordered. I've finally bought Varta N70 (70AH 760A SAE).

Hi, Time has come to replace my summer tyres (235/50/19)... A bit hurried by a special bargain by the end of this month actually. I plan to have them replaced once my winter tyres will be on. This way, I can make a good detailing on my summer wheel and remove weights properly myself. It should avoid careless removal and damage on my rims when I drop them to have the new tyres fitted. I'm currently hesitating between Michelin Pilot Sport 4 SUV and Michelin Latitude Sport 3 SUV. Any feedbacks on either of these? TIA

I'll start by saying that I haven't done this heated seat retrofit myself, but have you read this post? (Below). It seems to be pretty comprehensive.

Thanx @Binx1310 I tried looking at mine to see what the bulb was like to see if I could replace it myself with the plastic started falling apart,, tried searching for another casing on AliExpress but could only find complete units so I’ll wait to see how your eBay one turns up

Hi you may right, I thought that too at one stage it may be the phone software and in the process of troubleshooting did make sure google maps and other such as android auto was up to date, in the meantime also the phone OS updated to one UI version 8.5, android version 16. I dig check and see that there is an android 17 and ui 9 software update but that isn't available in my region at the moment, don't know if that's causing any issues. I mostly connect with cable to keep the phone on charge and it connects to Android auto that way, but then and again at times I also use wireless too to connect, and it appears to do the same, it's just I've never encountered this issue before. I'm wondering though now that you mentioned OS and update Google maps if that is causing the issue. Maybe it is a bug. My phone is the galaxy A34.

thanks, yes done the recal and fixed everything, but yes agree on skoda putting the wrong dataset into the suspension. cheers.

@DALEB - I'll reach out to Julian for u and see if he's happy for me to give u his contact details. In the meantime - after lowering it, u should get the DCC Recalibration done, which is easy to do with 4x jack stands and VCDS or OBDeleven. It will help. With regards to the DCC Slider Mod - it has made a massive difference to many peeps with the 280 Superb, including mine which is a 220. For some reason Skoda put the wrong (default.....common) suspension dataset into the Superb, making it boaty, bouncy and bottom out from factory. The DCC Slider Mod loads the suspension dataset for the Arteon, which is much more composed and responsive. A must do if u have the means to get it done. Far far cheaper, and better in my opinion, than APR's current SCU offering.

Fantastic news! Thanks!

Checked the connectors and they are, very is in grey and black is in black. Ended up doing the hammer mod and the idle is now happy and idling at 903. Now it's totally flat between 1k and 2k revs. One step forward two back...... Still stuck on timing of 38 so next step is check the timing points all still line up

Once I had the prokit springs fitted the ride was harsh and felt like it bottomed out over holes etc, luckily I came across this forum and used ob11 to reset suspension settings but yes eager to get the slider mod done.

Yes definitely love the extra space and superb is e beautiful car. Was terrible and looked silly with the original springs, sway bar really fixed the boat feeling. Just like many on here, I drive in normal mode, mostly but find sport the best setting when driving harder. Comfort should be the normal setting, normal, sport setting and then a tighter setting for sport. But yes it’s not a hot hatch, not a golf r, I had the golf r wagon.

First mod for my superb I really want to change the upper grille I think i need these 2 parts? Can people confirm? I’ve read it’s a nightmare to do, and does require removing front bumper ideally?