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OK, with those 14 way connectors unmated use meter set on dc volts to work out which half of the connector has pin11 at 12V when ignition is on. I'd imagine it will be the side with female contacts rather than pins. Then put that connector aside and on the other half measure resistance from pin 11 to battery negative. See if it looks like a dead short. Then unplug MAF, PAS 4-way connector and oil level sensor if found and see if that short is gone. If it has gone, reconnect those items one by one to see which is causing trouble.

Thanks, sorry for late reply! Yes does look like TRF since the fuel filter cap and the wheel nut caps were destroyed with something the attacked the plastics. AI suggests using a Magic Eraser to strip off the damaged layer and protect with Solution Finish - Black Trim Restorer.....perhaps when I am feeling brave!

I do have a multimeter yes

Do you have a multimeter?

Don’t think I do haven’t checked if not what’s the way forward because I am also getting a code from the obd for the maf but unplugging that connector has stopped the fuse does that mean it’s on the other side of the connector (female) or closer to the battery

List is what I have told you already: Power steering pump MAF Oil level/temperature sensor if fitted. There could also be wiring damage shorting the black/yellow wire to chassis (or even another wire possibly).

Good start. No oil level sensor in sump?

I guess you didn't answer the question about still having the original motor because you threw it away? Which country are you in?

I u plugged that 11 pin connector and the fuse didn’t pop straight away maybe 1 step closer?😁

Cracking view at Fairlight this afternoon, looking East towards Little Cheyne Court Wind Farm on the left and Dungeness on the right: Gaz

Hi everyone, I'm a bit confused about the service naming conventions used by Škoda dealerships and would appreciate some advice. My Škoda Superb is a 2019 (69 plate), so it's now around 7 years old. The dealer has recommended the following work, based on the relevant service intervals: - Oil change and inspection service – £278.54 - Extended scope inspection – £84.00 - Air filter – £45.91 - Fuel filter – £82.98 - Pollen filter – £72.90 - Brake fluid change – £100.49 My question is about how these services compare with the options advertised by independent garages on BookMyGarage. I normally use BookMyGarage to find better prices, but independent garages don't seem to use Škoda's terminology. More importantly the secret service garage which is the same dealer garage use the below. Instead, they advertise: - Interim Service - Full Service - Major Service - Oil & Filter Change Am I right in thinking that the work recommended by Škoda would essentially fall under a Major Service, as it includes the various filters listed above? A few specific questions: 1. Is Škoda's Oil Change and Inspection Service essentially the same as an independent garage's Oil & Filter Change? 2. Does combining the Oil Change and Inspection Service with the Extended Scope Inspection make it equivalent to a Full Service? 3. Would a Major Service normally include all the filters Škoda has recommended (air, fuel and pollen). 4. If I book a Major Service through BookMyGarage, is there anything specific I should check to make sure the garage carries out everything Škoda has quoted? I'd ideally like to use an secret service (skoda dealer) because BookMyGarage often has significantly cheaper prices, but I want to make sure I'm comparing like for like and not missing any important maintenance. Thanks in advance for any advice!

Hi, I want to update my Skoda Kodiaq infotainment unit and unlock SmartLink. My current system details are: Part number: 5Q0035864B SW Train: MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0361T Could you please send me a direct Google Drive or Mega link to the MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0369T firmware update and the MIB STD2 Toolbox? Thank you very much for your help!

I own both devices myself and have updated them with the same firmware.

Stupid question but is ATA Confirm ticked in the Maxidot display?

Could be a bad door switch or as said ignition switch. If its a door switch are there any door open lights on dash when all doors closed. Check also that puddle lights come on when unlocking car. Also switch on radio and remove key. The radio should go off. If it doesnt it points to ignition switch. Alasdair

Mines the same . When I turn off ignition and remove key it says Check Deadlock Google says this Active Security Feature: It reminds you that the car's deadlocks are engaged when you turn off the ignition and lock the vehicle. [1, 2] Disabled Inside Handles: When deadlocked, the doors cannot be opened from the inside using the interior door handles, which stops thieves from breaking a window and unlocking the car. [1, 2] Safety Warning: It serves as a reminder not to leave pets, children, or passengers locked inside the car, because they will not be able to get out.

Sorry but it's not. The Bolero unit does not Recognise the Amundsen data.

Not seen it say safe lock it’s always said deadlock since I’ve had the car.

The sign-off message is probably 'Check Safelock' - which is serves as a reminder to the driver not to lock in any passengers who remain in the vehicle.

Is the same

Yes everything goes off on the cluster. It says check deadlock if that means anything to you ? That noise from the videos happens when the car is locked. I just came out to my car then and the noise was going off. I currently have fuse 35 out aswell. Cheers Tom

Hi Mick Thank you for that. I'll keep my eyes peeled. Cheers.

Just as I thought this issue was over 24 hours later engine has developed a loud tick, most noticeably over cylinder 3/4, it's being taken back to the mechanic first thing in the morning not too happy with this, I thought it sounded a bit off when I picked it up, my father in law heard it yesterday and was like there's an injector sealing washer gone.

Hi Chris Many thanks for getting back to me, unfortuatley the link to the file on the MIB website to obtain the file seems to be permanently unavailable, ill keep trying !

I haven't tried any motor besides the 6Y2959801 so I will look for a 6Y1959801A then, although there's like almost none available in my area. I have managed only to find a 6Y1959801 on the web but the shop is closed at this time, so I am not able to call them to make sure yet. If this one fails again, I think I will just disconnect the two rear motors, so that I can at least use the two front windows freely.