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Sandor626 : Octavia MK3 Combi G-TEG 130cv 2020 , Ambition

A warm greeting to all the members of this great forum. My nickname is Sandor626; I own a 2020 Octavia (3rd generation) Combi G-Tec (130 hp) and a 2020 Fabia (3rd generation) 1.0 (60 hp). My interests lie in electronics, a hobby I’ve pursued since 1975. I am a radio amateur, though I am interested in every field of electronics. Sandor 626 ( Sandro )

I decided to have my MY2019 Karoq 1.0 SE Tech DSG serviced and MOT'd at a local garage, who had impressed me last year when they did the MOT. Previously, servicing had always been by the Walthamstow Skoda Dealers, who to be fair had on the whole been pretty good, but my All-in-Ones, Warranties etc. finally expired last year. My car has the non digital speedo & rev counter instruments, but the display in between - forget the name - is digital and seemingly has various setting options. The car came back from service with a different setting, now displaying a big friendly speedo character. I'd rather have what I had before (can't recall all the exact features) but I can't see in my handbook, how to choose the options. Can anyone help? If I'd gone to the Skoda Dealers, they would have changed the brake fluid, as the car is 7 years old (44,000miles) and that's what the service schedule says, but my new garage tested the fluid and said it was fine and not needing topping up - so that saved some money. I noted last year that the Skoda Dealer was previously (2 years ago) suggesting that I'd soon need new brake pads (identified by their MOT place), but my new garage said the pads were fine and the car passed the MOT last year and this, no problem. The new garage said they'd look at the air filter too, even though not due for replacement and must have decided to change it. Car economy seemed to improve a little after the service, so not unhappy. I found a 2nd good garage locally, who had replaced the shock absorbers with Konis - Special Active that I supplied them with, a few months ago. i thought the workmanship charge reasonable and they noted that the brake pads had plenty of wear left and were OK (that's why I trust them too), but did comment they rattle around a little in the calipers, which i notice only when the windows are open. They said there are better makes that fit better and don't rattle - I forgot to write down the names.

It is ridiculous the situation with stores like LIDL or ALDI having EV chargers where they are only for use during store open hours and people getting a penalty charge for parking at a charger while charging out of hours. No idea how common or which other companies might be doing the same. Just seen a few news articles on this happening. The charger i am on is supposedly a 22 kW, so 2 vehicles could be charging and getting 11 kW. I have never got 11 kW with a car with 11 kW on board charger. Just now with a 7kw on board charger i am getting near that. In the past on this one i have had someone else plug into the other port and it drop to us both getting only 3 6 kW or so.

Well, did you follow Octopus's instructions? I had sunlight right through the eclipse; admittedly, it was weaker for a few minutes, but there was still plenty of sunshine, and my solar panels and garden were bathed in it. I had to laugh at the guff some of the TV presenters were saying, like the temperature had suddenly dropped. Not here, it still felt as hot as ever.

Welcome to the forum. That sounds as if the system is blindly applying the 10MPH motorway speed reduction to all roads.

I knew that most chargers located in car parks also make you pay the parking charge as well. I also recall reading a post on here before about being charged a minimum fee, and I was wondering if that charge still applied today now that there are improved facilities for electric cars.

Thanks for that I had, as yet, never come across a minimum charge. Did have one pub that added a £1 connection fee I assume the charging cost went to the CPO so the pub was charging for parking.

I fitted a replacement Instrument cluster (pre-owned) it would not be accepted. I re-fitted the original, only to find that the ECU 03 Brake electronics had lost it's Long Code. Would you be able to recover the original Long Code and instal it into the ECU ?

Been on 45 minutes and charged only 4kWh. So £2.00. The 22kW AC tethered charger cable which would be giving me 11 KW is no longer on the Big DC charger. That was what wrongly had you paying 70 pence a kWh. The £5 minimum charge on the supposed 11 kW AC I am on means many will be like me and occupy the charger for longer than they might normally. It is pure stupidity that the minimum charge cost is not just £2.00. PS. The big / rapid 50 kW DC charger is out of service.

The boot of the Mk2 is the same shape as the Mk1 so you should be able to find one more readily for that car

Hi, i have a Rapid Spaceback 2018 Like Trim, yesterday i changed the original radio (swing mib2 entry) for a seat discover media, everything goes plug & play but the radio keeps always on and doesn't recognize the ignition switch nor the parking camera. Did i need to buy some type of adapter or canbus module or the radio is incompatible? Swing radio: Version of the new radio: Sorry for my bad english 😅

Can you not just use the usbc socket by the rear view mirror? I have a front and rear Viofo that records incidents when parked and it’s plugged into that.

Why a shame for PHEVs, it looks like the minimum £5 applies to your BEV as well. That £5 would buy a lot miles when home charging.

My tip is to highlight all the mounting clips positions and take a picture of it - for my wife's 2015 VW Polo 5 door, I stuck small bits of masking tape to the outer surface to highlight where they all are - and took a photo - for making refitting it easier, and removing the next time less troublesome! I ended up with a metal clip escaping and "wandering" around the rear hatch door frame - that was maybe 6 years ago, every summer I consider taking that panel off to resolve that annoying noise!

Only food and sauces. Shame for phev drivers with a £5 min charge .

Did you get a full pre delivery report, check sheet showing everything done under their rigorous checking procedure? Full body and mechanical checks, and safety checks! Did you inspect it closely or have anyone do it for you before purchase?. I am a former car repairer and sprayer and a trader.. It is amazing how blind some car buyers are.

Hi, i'm from spain and i have a skoda rapid spaceback 2018, it's a pleasure to meet y'all

When a professional dealer sells a vehicle presented as pristine, but it actually conceals massive structural repairs and undisclosed heavy fillers, the situation goes far beyond a simple oversight. Even though the vehicle has a history with previous owners and transfers, consumer protection laws hold professional sellers to a high standard of transparency, penalizing misleading omissions. The buyer is not challenging a minor cosmetic scratch, but a hidden defect severe enough to undermine the very basis of the purchase. Consequently, legal action relies not on the assumption that a quick visual check should have caught it, but on the principle that trading a compromised asset without proper disclosure breaches the contract, justifying full restitution and compensation.

@cristi_r22 how many previous registered keepers? And when did you buy the 5 year old car? A dealership selling a used car might do a visual inspection and maybe done by someone with poor eye sight. But they have not had the car from new. A new car can be damaged from the factory to the first supplying dealer or anytime really. Why do you think you can take an action against the Dealership. Worth a mention you are in Romania.

@Joco776 How can you help?

I'll keep you updated. The car is mint and done 102k miles there is zero wear on the drivers seat so I'm guessing it's been mainly motorway miles. I live in Farnborough so if you know any good garages that can do the work please let me know. I've done a quick Google and SJB Autotech have some good reviews. Thanks again.

Relevant HVAC measurements are refrigerant pressure, compressor load (actual and requested), evaporator temperature and vent temperatures. You can deduce many airco problems from these. Refrigerant pressure measured prior to engine startup should be 5+ bars on a hot day, see my last post in this thread from sometime ago: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/503690-airco-refrigerant-pressure-climatronic-typical-values/ When running engine and compressor, after a while high side pressure should be above 10bar at 20degC ambient, and above 16bar at 30degC ambient. There are more exact tables and charts of temp vs pressure, do a search. Remember the sensor shows absolute pressure (0 is absolute vacuum), while most Internet charts show pressure above ambient, so 1 bar less. With temp set to low and airco fan running on full, evaporator temperature should be low several deg C, perhaps up to 10degC on a really hot day and stationary car with idling engine. Compressor load helps see that cooling is actually requested and that the compressor responds, and also useful if you overfill the system. One thing worth also checking in case of inconsistent behaviour is if the front airco fan (behind engine and airco radiators) switches on and works OK. if the fan or relay fails, cooling efficiency depends much more on whether the car is moving rather than just ambient temperature. There's a whole host of other potential issues, eg freezing water in the system, stuck expansion valve etc., but on a system that has worked well in the past, the above would be my starting point for diagnostics. HTH

@ThomBrink můžu vám ten problém vyřešit.

The workshop manual does have information on paint - I’m not able to access it now, however, but maybe somewhere to look?