Leaderboard

New to the forum. Here is my 2018 280 Sportline. Absolutely love it!

Skoda needs to get the Average Co2 g/km low and the WLTP / RDE2 figures where they want them so are going to offer the cars that can get the results under the tests so what they can offer is limited or they will have to pay the cost of the high emission vehicles, even if in the real world they are no high emission emitting. So DSG's. Light Hybrids, Plug in Hybrids and eventually EV's.

2015 RS TDI Eibach Sportline. 19" AEZ Straight dark. Facelift rear lights (Not in 1st picture). OEM Alcantara steering wheel (pics will come). Full interior led, rear plate led and parking light front. Highline OEM rearview camera. Things to do: Lip on rear ving. Debadge rear and black skoda badge front and rear. Expansion bottle replacement (ordered) DPF/EGR delete. Remap.

nice lens too

Welcome to a great informative site Stubo67.

That would be a deal breaker for me. No spare = no sale. None of that gunk in a can stuff either. A skinny space saver is the bare minimum for me. That said, I can't remember the last time I actually had a puncture which needed a wheel change out on the road away from the house. Slow punctures yes a few but I was always able to drive to a tyre place for a repair / replacement or top it up with air from a mini air compressor to get me home.

Went along to Hastings old town today, my favourite shot is this hole in a boat..

Thanks Amanda, if you fancy the 90D let me know, after MPB trade in price for it. Linkage to original here. I used a couple of studio strobes, one with barn doors and blue acetate, the other with a long soft box and grid.

What was it a 1.07 or something? These hybrid cars just never race flat out do they? Pole was a 1.02 I believe? These guys have for years now just been driving for tyre life. Anyone on fresh tyres at the end can have a pop at FL - even the Williams and Haas can lap at 1.04.

Well, yes ... but people rarely have an unfortunate bump carefully.

Nah, just clear all the codes to reset the dynamic map and forget about it.

Oh, yes. The CTHF engine. Still a detuned cupra/vrs/gti engine. Maybe the new software makes it less noticeable that the engine is barely working 😆. On the CAVF you could see even from a dyno graph that the engine was limited on purpose and in a clumsy way. It would just hit a target power output and stay there. The power curve of the cavd (160ps) is way better.

Try reformatting the 16GB Skoda SD card to FAT32 but with the cluster size set to 2048 bytes instead of the default - there are thousands of very small files in the map data and with the default cluster size (8096 bytes) a huge amount of the SD card space is wasted.

Mine creaks occasionally but I’d rather have a sunroof and the odd noise than no sunroof and no noise

The alternator is charging a variable current on a regulated voltage. Normal voltage on battery should be 13.5 V - 14 V without electrical loads at idle. Check first for proper contact on battery ground cable, alternator housing contact to ground, positive alternator cable contact to battery positive plot. Maximum voltage drop on any contact should be around 0.1 V under load. If there are no contact issues, replace the voltage regulator. If still no luck, the alternator has an internal issue.

Yes you should do it, it isn't generally necessary on petrol engines but the service advice is based on a 10 year/100k lifespan so...

Thank you for the info ! I replaced spark plugs and coils myself. I used ngk and beru zse 030. I was thinking about the injectors and carbon build up as the seems to sometimes hesitate during high load- low rpm conditions. Something like a misfire but without any fault codes. Now that you mentioned that this maybe be an early sign of timing chain failure I am even more worried ! My injectors should be the older variant than the ones you would find in most Vrs as its an early 2009. The new injector were used since mid 2010, right ? I will avoid any spray cleaner for the intake and just clean them the right way of possible. The supercharger belt replacement may be an issue. I have not yet found any garage that has done this kind of work on a Tsi ! Hello ! Thanks ! Yes, its the 150ps variant, CAVF engine with a custom, fairly conservative remap. Not aiming for any big power gain.

Have a read of this

Any video featuring any presenter than Robert is very good and informative. It's just a shame Robert often goes on rants that are hardly factual, it destroys their credibility.

There will be 4 - off "strong enough" points under the car to use a trolley jack with a spreader pad on it, look for the 4 - off round hardish plastic bungs - not soft rubberish bungs - they tend to have a countersink groove on the surface, that is where you can permanently fit Audi TT MK1 Jacking Point protectors, the front ones are inboard of the sill and towards the front of the car form the official jacking point, the rear ones are again inboard of the sill and towards the rear of the car. For the axle stands you will need to make up or buy slotted blocks with HD rubber on the top - and use under the official jacking points. If you are going to keep this car for a while, the Audi TT jacking pads are for handy, well at least for me as I have 2 trolley jacks that have small lifting cup that fits these jacking pads exactly, they let you grab a trolley jack look underneath and quickly place the jack's cup below 2 of these points and lift one side up at a time, then slip in a couple of axle stands and repeat on the other side. These 4 - off strongish points are only there for factory use when moving the bodies around, but as soon as Audi started using them to ease lifting the TT, lots of people used them on cars up to the Golf etc weight/size range. I've hd absolutely no issues with using them since they became available or on my radar, since maybe 2004 onwards, I had to buy a new set for my wife's 2015 Polo when we bought it as I had left it too late to start trying to remove them from her old 2002 Polo. Edit:- I've spent a bit of time making up suitable axle/jack stand padded adapters for both my cars, each one slightly different as the body profile at or near the jacking points are different on different models, but in each case I've made a point of only using the vertical folded seam as a locator and kept the weight of my cars mainly on the flat area behind the sill and some on the front of the sill, though the area supporting the front or outer area is really only being used to improve stability should any of the other 3 supporting points want to induce any tilting. I'm just trying to keep things safe while also protecting my cars while working under them. My load spreaders are slightly longer than the jacking points. I stopped lifting my cars at a single point years ago as I don't like stressing the frame welds any more than they see in normal daily use.

So long as you let the oil settle before topping up so not to overfill????

How do you guys feel about no space for a spare? One big thing that puts me off.

Honestly, I’d assume it’s fine. The display/HU isn’t the same as the current gen Fabias so it shouldn’t have the same issue. Thats probably why the 2017 Polo doesn’t have issues either (if it’s the display I’m thinking about). My mums Opel Karl also hasn’t had any issues since day 1 and that looks more on-par quality wise with the Fabias. I guess it could still potentially have some issues, but that could be said for anything really

https://youtu.be/cGSXXdxrWac

That 69 plate FL Superb if it is the 272 is much better than the Mk4 Octavia Vrs because my 2019 version had 283bhp when standard rather than the 268bhp Skoda claim and with 4WD none of those ponies are wasted and mine being the older model was only £23,840 with 4,900 miles direct from Skoda HQ.

Did this job over the weekend, it is very simple indeed and required only the correct sized spanner. The job took an hour because access the the sensor is awful, I had to move the header tank and air intake pipe, then manipulate many smaller pipes out of the way to even reach the valve - and then I needed to get my other hand underneath it to support the pipe which may easily fracture when pressure is applied as it's unsupported.

Would not advise to put any additives into your oil, These cars are delicate enough....Any decent grade 5w30/5w40 will see you fine Yes, The norm is to change the 2 auxiliary belts when changing your water pump, Both can be purchased for less than £20. Fairly easy job to change over the belts albeit tight and you need to loosen belt tensioners.etc. Only go with the recommended plus and coils, Don't trust a garage to put plugs in the car as 99% they are the wrong plugs. Plugs/coils are the main issue, these engines eat them and as for injectors....Never really been an issue on these, Oil jets/squinters yeah but injectors not really. In theory it should work, I wouldn't bother, Carbon clean is quite a big job on these for the proposed result. An oil catch can will do the same job. The problem with these is the water pump is located beside the chain, Its hard to differentiate between the noise of the water pump & the chain if there's a problem, early signs of a stretched/damaged chain would be the car effectively skipping a beat under power ie it would feel like a fuel issue and the car would be hesitant, again another big job to replace the chain.

Thanks, Amanda. I've googled version 2 and still baffled. I'd hesitate on a dual card as this house is old brick and although my signal is strong- excellent, that from both sides is well down ,even at 2.4. My router is dual and only time I get to use 5Ghz on tablet is in front room, where router is. Think I'll settle on the Tenda one at moment as funds are low.

Adhesive tape. Dealer fixed it for free, it’s due to the mud flap design.

Found the Rev limiter

I'm a fan of Varta batteries. My previous 2003 Superb mkI had one fitted from new and is still going strong (car now under new ownership). I suspect the Moll EFB fitted to my 2014 Superb II won't last as long, still ok at the moment though at over 6 years old and 86k miles.

What about side mirrors? There are several combinations of mirrors not including those with side assist 6 pins standard electric heated 9 pins electric heated and folding with puddle lights 11 pins auto dimming electric heated and folding with puddle lights 15 pins memory electric heated and folding with puddle lights You can code mirror drop for any car but on anything less than the 15 pin mirrors, the dip can’t be set, it just drops a little bit.

Hi mate I had this problem it was like there was no power steering and it was a steering rack problem I think one of the hydraulic lines was crushed

Looks really nice and tbf the wood trim inside looks ok as well. Fingers crossed it makes it to the UK market as I may well be interested!

A postscript to this. I got the PowerFlex ones a few weeks ago and finally took a look at the job last Sunday. I was hoping that I could do the job without dropping the front subframe - it looked like there was enough room in there to wiggle it out so I could drill out the brackets. There wasn't! Five hours of poking at stuff and swearing at it to no avail. So during the week I ordered up the bolts I'd need to replace when I dropped the subframe. I got around to doing the job today and it went largely as expected. At the start, I'd hoped I wouldn't need to completely drop the subframe, thinking it would be a pain in the behind to fully drop it. Suffice it to say the subframe did have to come all the way down but once it did it was quite straightforward to get the ARB out and sort it out. The OE bushes are held in place by a two piece clamp with a flange on the nut binding the two together. That had to be drilled out to separate the clamp and get the old bushes out. I had expected the OE bushes to be a single piece moulded onto the ARB as this is the only sane reason to set it up the way they did. It turned out that it was a bog standard two piece bushing, which makes the design decision to require replacement of the entire ARB (and dropping the subframe to do so) utterly daft. I found a 10 mm drill bit too small for those flanges but a 13 mm bit was fine. Leave as much metal on the nuts as possible after drilling them out: this can be hammered down to retain the nuts on the bracket (I'll have pics when I can get them off the phone in a bit). From there it was plain sailing: swap the bushes, bolt the ARB onto the subframe (a bit easier when it's still dropped down), jack the subframe back into place and bolt it in, torque everything down properly. One benefit of replacing the bushings this way is that I shouldn't need to drop the subframe next time since the brackets & bushes can be popped off the ARB easily now.

Heres new look at Škoda official video. I like the wood trim.

This is a useful conversion table from AWG to mm2 AWG to mm2

I decided to get up early this morning and head off for a drive. We're lucky that there are some amazing roads round here and that on a Sunday morning the only real traffic on the roads is the occasional sheep or pheasant. The route is about 74 miles and goes from Scarborough up to Whitby, over the tops and then down to Danby, Castleton, Blakey Ridge and back home to Scarborough via Pickering. I also took a few photos along the way as it seemed like a good idea at the time. The car performed brilliantly and even returned nearly 37mpg despite the occasional use of the right foot. It's been ages since I used the car for anything other than going to work and back so I'm glad i made the effort.

Relatively new (purchased sept 19) FL230 DSG owner here. My budget wouldn’t stretch to a 245 and to me colour was most important - Rallye Green or nothing. I paid £16.5k from a main dealer and love it. It doesn’t have any extras which doesn’t bother me as it is well specced as standard, the only thing I miss is auto folding wing mirrors. No probs with the lack of fancy diff. I’ve just picked up some genuine Xtremes from eBay which really finish off the look, the Gemini’s didn’t quite fill the wheel arches enough for me. i had to travel from London to Stockport for mine. You aren’t in a rush so bide you’re time and something suitable will come up.

Quality shot Geof. Took this one tonight.

While checking how to change my air filter I decided that the top of my engine looks a little unfinished with the coil packs etc. exposed - it appears that Skoda, etc. decided to delete the engine cover cap some time before MY16, presumably in a cost-cutting exercise. Took a look on "The Bay" and found someone supplying a VW one, apparently sourced from VW Shanghai - £35 including free postage, bracket and bolt. Perfect and easy fit, looks genuine/original and finishes off the top of the engine nicely - I know, not a Skoda-marked part, but OK with that - my steel winter wheels have VW trims which I've never bothered to change.

Nice one buddy, glad you made a positive move forward, and I wasn’t imagining that the rears sound so different - have you set the car’s fader control all the way to the front so it’s only having to drive the front outputs? Who cares what the EQ curve looks like if it sounds good to your ears 😊 The boot and doors will make a massive difference, and tyres are a big contributor to noise - looking forward to reading your progress. Interestingly, I played about a bit the other day muting front and rear channels independently, and it’s amazing the difference between them, which I can only put down to the volume (as in volumetric size) of the doors - think of a speaker cabinet; generally the larger they are, the greater bass depth, and the front doors are somewhat larger than the rears...the fronts have more depth, whilst the rears seem to have a higher mid-bass hump, which to my ears just sounds wrong...I’ve muted the rear speakers again and prefer fronts + sub. Whilst you were tinkering with amp settings, I stuck a piece of soft foam to the top of the sunglasses holder in the roof lining; hopefully no more sunnies annoyingly rattling around 😁 Cheers, Nick

Regular oil changes / servicing / maintenance would always be my approach. My last Skoda was purely suburban based and covered 180,000 km prior to trading in. Always serviced. Lots of short journeys. Ironically I never had a DPF challenges, the car never failed to start. Apart from a few punctures and new tyres nothing other than regular servicing was required. Appreciate there is some way to go to hit 400,000km. I am selective on who I choose to service my car, do not assume a dealer will perform a proper service or do what they say they will do. I had dealers on major service not change the oil despite saying they did, air filters not changed etc. I check these post service to make sure the work is honest and select the dealers who appear to do the work they state with care. 3 London based dealers I used were scrubbed off my list as they were dishonest and unable to perform work with adequate care. I generally end up using well reputed independent VW garages after warranty runs out. I am not looking for the cheapest servicing, always happy to pay the going rate for a good job. If you chase cheap servicing you generally get cheap and that is not always good for your vehicle maintenance. Pay monkeys get peanuts, The Kodiaq is a different beast, new tech, new engine from my last car. I suspect we'll encounter the usual VW electrical gremlins. I have already needed to replace the infotainment screen and needed a new water pump due to the old "problematic" water pump being present in the car. And luck will obviously play a part, sometimes you get a super reliable car. Sometimes you get one that has more gremlins than average through no fault of your own and little you can do to prevent (water pump for example). Lastly I drive with mechanical sympathy by default, meaning I do not accelerate (excessively rev) or brake hard and drive progressively. Don't crash over speed bumps or up kerbs etc. Seems common sense but I see so many drivers lack any sort of mechanical sympathy when driving their vehicles. In the old days people purchased their cars and ran them for life, which I believe made you care more. 90% of car ownership now (not my statistic) is leased / PCP etc. With this model people do not need to think about or care to look after a vehicle to the same extent as they know they will offload it is a few years. As long as it is running and the bodywork is clean it matters not.

I don't have to be modest when it comes to my work as a result of my passion for Skoda Felicia. Why should I? I am the only one who has written a detailed document about cleaning, repairing, and setting the Pierburg 2E3 / Jikov 28-30 LEKR carburetor. I am the only one who has reverse engineered the dashboard of all types of Felicia. And so on...

Sorry only just seen this my car had done about 83k when I had it done.

more pictures as promised @Colin170CR no issues with electric boot opening or closing

If it's not in German, most probably it is written by me.

Good luck with the sale, but more importantly, good luck with your health and wellbeing 👍 I shall miss your posts.

That would be either careless. Or stupid.