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Five spot burnets

A better update,,, Skoda UK and repairing delaer said they wouldn't offer any more goodwill. The dealer I bought the car from refused to offer any support at all and the used sales manager there has not returned my call yesterday, as promised. So I won't buy any more cars from Marshall in Northampton and suggest anyone else considering doing so keeps my experience in mind. I decided to phone Skoda Approved Warranty (0333 043 3782) and spoke to a very helpful chap. He informed me that no warranty claim had so far been made and was clear that dealers should not be making decisions about what is and isn't warrantable, on their behalf. I described the issue and he agreed to phone the repairing dealer on my behalf to urge them to make a warranty claim. Less than five minutes after finishing speaking with me the repairing dealer phoned back offering their sincere apologies. Apparently they didn't understand the extent of warranty coverage(!) and confirming that the flywheel and associated parts and labour were being covered by warranty. They also offered a good discount on a replacement clutch and related ancilliaries. All in all I am looking at £200 rather than £2k initially or £1k after goodwill. An unexpected bill but in theory there is some betterment as a result and I think overall a good result. I've reported the outcome back to Skoda UK. I spoke to two different customer service people during the process. One was not very knowledgeable or helpful, the other was both of these things and has now transferred my case into their name and is exploring a further goodwill gesture on account of the my experience over the past few days. It just goes to show that sometimes it's not the facts of the situation which matter, but who you speak to. In this case, my phoning the warranty team directly was crucial in achieving a fair outcome.

2 different photos, these were taken yesterday, very much like how the Rolls came out

... me being the owner just for the last 4 years. Anyways, I've decided to share an update with the people here, in case some of you are wondering about the rust and the underbody on the Skoda Superb II, aged 10+. Two weeks ago, my car's wind-shield and a rock the size of a golf ball met at 130 km/h, guess which of those got the short end of the stick. To be honest, after the initial hit, I expected major cracks on the wind-shield, but it wasn't as bad, and it was in the lowest possible spot of the wind-shield - I could've probably driven some more around with it like that. But, since I've already prepared myself for repainting the roof of the car (some damage to the very edge of the roof towards the front, couldn't be repaired/painted without removing the wind-shield completely), I've decided to take the plunge and have the car "refreshed" a bit - something I've decided on a long time ago, but was aware that I'll be without the car for almost two weeks, and never had the time to do that before. The car now has 208000 km, nothing major regarding maintenance, just regular work done by myself (including the gearbox and Haldex oils). Some bushes and joints have been replaced though, on the front and rear suspension (due to rattles and thumps while driving). What I've decided on doing was to have the hood repainted (small scratches, chips and rock craters on it, nothing major, but ruined the front end of the car if you have a keen eye), the roof (already explained) and the rear bumper (because the clear coat started to come off, probably due to pressure washing, and I've had several hits to the rear and the paint having a circular like crack - looked funny, probably a car reversed into me and slightly bent the bumper, the plastic was ok, but the pint chipped in a circular fashion), including the side-skirts, and the rear wheel arch towards the rear passenger door (some damage to it as well, the previous owner "fixed it" like a 3-year old would). The new wind-shield is genuine, didn't want to go with cheaper ones, because the genuine one proved its sturdiness on multiple occasions, even survived a rogue toll ramp which came down on it and nothing broke (except the ramp). I've also asked the garage to do some touch-up/polishing of whatever they can do with the car while it is there. After they lifted the car, and started doing work under the car, they suggested to bitumen coat the underbody of the car - completely. Mostly due to rust. Yes, sadly, rust started to appear (not much actually, if you consider a lump of metal being on the road for 12 years). The secondary benefit of this procedure (which is yet to be tested, since I'll be picking the car up tomorrow) is lower road noise, due to the bitumen coating on the wheel arches and below the entire car. Bottom end - 8kgs of bitumen was applied to the car. If the thing ever catches fire, the wheel arches will be last thing standing ... 🤣 The photos show the "show", so enjoy.

You can adjust the speed with 1mph step with the ACC lever. Pull towards the lever you to increase the speed demand / press the ‘set’ buttom at the end of the lever to decrease the speed demand. No VCDS needed. 😉

Here is my fresh install. Otherwise it looks good, but for my taste background is too exposed. I think I have to mod black mesh behind the grill or something...

I had the same problem with my headlights. My local dealer showed me a technical information document from Skoda Tech support. To them, it’s normal since the headlights are not sealed (as said above). Thus, they didn’t change anything... It globally disappeared on its own. One efficient solution is to drive long enough with lights ON, so that it dries the inside. Another solution is to grab a Tampax from your wife (yes, it may sound strange) and to insert it in the light, to absorb all the humidity. Put it in the evening and let it over the night, to get the best result. Its a tip used by underwater photographers to protect their camera against fog or leakage in their water resistant case for camera. Very efficient.

I am by no means an expert on any of this so I cannot be 100% confident in my answers but I assume the following: 1. Yes it is the same AFS II system as the mk2 Superb, but without bi-xenon. Both of the projectors will constantly adjust as you are driving (left and right with the steering, up and down as the level of the vehicle is changing during acceleration and braking, and overall position depending on which lighting mode is active). 2. Yes the bend lighting still functions during the different AFS II lighting modes. The most obvious working is the "city light" mode which you can see when driving at low speeds (<45kmh), where the offside beam is angled out very wide. When you come to a halt you can see that beam move back to the centre. And you can also see it move back to the centre as you go past 45kmh and it goes into "country light" mode. 3. As far as I am aware 1507610 is the standard coding for RHD xenons with AFS only. I don't know if it is the same coding for LHD but I do not believe it gives AFS II functions. The 1311190 coding is for RHD xenons with AFS II. Again I do not know if it is the same coding for LHD. 4. The car should be unloaded except for its usual running gear (spare wheel etc) and a full tank of fuel. The Octavia has a front level sensor too and can actually angle the xenons upwards from their centre position to compensate for the nose pitching down slightly. If your headlights have already been aligned properly (with a beam setter) there is no worry about simply clicking through the basic setting while the car is on level ground. The basic setting just tells the car that the current position is what it should consider absolutely level. 5. Yes you can swap between the 1507610 and 1311190 coding no problem, I changed mine a few times while I was trying to get it to work (I had a separate issue which I fixed). You need to do the basic setting again each time you change the coding. 6. I do not believe disabling bend lighting will disable the different AFS II lighting modes, if you don't want the AFS II modes then just stick with the standard coding. I quite like it though, and it's cool to see the lights constantly moving around. While this is true of the Superb I do not believe it is the case with the Octavia. I think it was possible to have xenons/AFS on the mk2 Octavia without having auto lights.

So first upgrades beyond paintless dent repair and a wheel repaint: 1. Remove Nasty Roof Bars which I have no keys for and are missing end-caps and toss in bin. (A new set of keys is only 10$ cheaper than a new set anyways) 2. All-weather floor mats and tunnel mat 3. Plastic Boot dish.

Yes, according to the Skoda France pricelist, the extra USB-C socket will be a £50 option.

Flip the covers off sideways and it's then obvious.

Thank you, keep us updated if any issues 😉

Just make sure to do proper oil changes, with the correct grade, at the correct time. Also, keep the coolant fresh. It may need changing more frequently in that climate. Go by the book or check with the local VW/Skoda dealership.

Age of battery? You say the problem isn't new, but for how long has it been happening? Was the car used regularly over the deepest of the lockdown period? Does the battery light come on with the ignition?

It's not going to just "go away", it's going to get worse until it stops working completely, you need to verify this with a code reader but it sounds like the pump unit itself is failing.

Nah, it's 'cos VW tarnished the image of all diesel engines considerably with their duplicity. They are still significantly better for the planet, due to lower CO2 emissions.

Hope it was a good read. The blue wouldn't have matched the rest of the car. With it having the red stitching on the interior, read brake calipers, the brace tied in it all together

I for one would appreciate the courtesy of a "heads up" about a vehicle for sale that is inaccurately or dishonestly described. For your own sake I suggest that any such note should be couched in terms of "it would seem" or "in my opinion" in order to prevent any legalistic backlash to you for offering an "expert" opinion.

Good advice. Decent photos and a well written advert make all the difference and it's definitely worked for me in the past. I usually take the car to a decent location for photos as well as taking a few cleaning products just in case the car gets dirty on the way. I'm biased but I genuinely think the MK1 vRS is very underrated and should be worth more than it currently is. As numbers drop and well looked after cars become rarer, people in the know will appreciate them but to most people, it's just an old Skoda. When people ask me what I drive I usually say 'Just a 17 year old Skoda' and that's usually the end of the conversation. If they are into cars they might ask further but it's amazing how many people ask if it's a diesel. If they ask that I move the conversation onto something else. It's very rare anyone knows what the Mk1 vRS is and that number is reduced by how many people appreciate it. If you write a good advert, describe it accurately and if it's a decent car you might get over the £1500 mark.👍

Check the tailgate bump stops are correctly adjusted.... just the tiniest bit of play in the tailgate shut can give some surprisingly loud knocks and thumps.

If you want a quiet tyre then both Michelin CrossClimates and Goodyear Vector 4Season Gen2 (now 3) have proven to be quiet in use. I went for the Goodyears and they really are very quiet with much reduced road noise. The previous tyres were Goodyear EfficientGrips and they are reported as quiet but the Vector 4 seasons are really significantly quieter. They drive well and, of course, you have the benefit of an all year round tyre so no problem in winter at lower temps or snow & ice. Read a few reviews on the internet - Autoexpress did a good comparison test.

yes no 1...i pushed up the lock/latch to clean it with a spray cleaner...i thought it was sticking as the door at times was hard to open i really panicked as it was getting late and i was tired...and thought it might be a case of taking off the door trim.. the car was in the drive and the door not closing...had to get it into the garage so i got in and knew i would have to hold the door tight against the locked latch i pulled the door opener to do this and the thing was released....thats why i felt so stupid and relieved the door opens ok now... thanks for asking cheers geof

For those needing a quick protection on paint or wheel damage 'Clear nail varnish' is dead handy. Much cheapness and available nearly everyplace. Same if you want a quick touch up of paint chips until you deal with them. Go to the nail varnish display and likely there is a near match there for much cheapness. My tool box (make up bag) has a large assortment of colours and shades back fro when the £1 shops would have 3 colours in a pack. Black's and Greys particularly handy.

Nexan N-blue 4 season https://www.oponeo.co.uk/tyre/nexen-n-blue-4-season-225-50-r17-94-v#305775502 Work well for me all year round. Great in the wet and dry, reasonable wear rate 30k miles. I will be buying them again when needed it will be my 3rd set on the Yeti.

Picked up a Mk III 2.0 TSI vRS last week. I am replacing a Mazda RX-8 which has been my daily driver for 2 years. Whilst fun, I could no longer justify the fuel consumption and lack of practicality. They don’t come much more practical than the Octavia! Loving the car so far, added a DTUK box and am going through the forums looking at what I do next. Can’t wait to get involved!

Thanks Gaz, My advice, do not think about it! My first car was a little 1.2 Corsa C. Nothing special but I loved it. Part-ex'd it after a year. Went back to the dealership again for a service only to hear that they had sold it to a member of staff who wrote it off on the 2nd day of ownership. Broke my heart! Sometimes it is best not to know

Yes, but this is not exactly a technical documentation rather than some drawing for masses. After all, all this doesn`t matter.

Servers are down apparently, just been told by suk

I could have done, but the cost of the additional box, even a NUC just isn't worth it. I'm up to speed on linux admin, so it wouldn't be an issue, but the cost and maintainance time is probably (as you say) more than the cost of a new printer. Regards to the printer the response was dire and involved a shouting support engineer, because he insisted he must remotely connect to a printer that wasn't on a public or routable IP and behind a firewall. There were also some very helpful people there, but I was told that most of their support staff were on Furlough, which probably hasn't helped. The vendor tried to get their kyocera rep to do something, but they got a blank too so offered to take the printer back. It got collected and has been replaced with an HP. In summary, the kyocera appears to have better built hardware, really poor software (from a user POV) and very poor support model when it comes to home/SOHO users. Will the HP be more expensive to run? Certainly. Did it work and do firmware updates as soon as plugged in? Yes! A working printer which is somewhat more expensive, is certainly better than a cheap one that is a nightmare in my book. It's a shame as there are some really good points for kyocera, and if you're a big business with a service contract, they're probably great, but until they fix the update and SOHO support model then I'd personally not recommend them.

The wheels will fit but the tyres are too big so you'll need to change them, IIRC you need 40 profile and 215 is the maximum width you can use with 17's.

There's nothing to worry about but if it worries you then don't monitor the oil temperature since there is no action you can take and the sensor may not necessarily be very accurate anyway.

Hi I’ve just done this yesterday with a set of half leather seats out of a 3dr A3. All went smoothly and I only had to swap over the small wiring loom from the Skoda seats to the Audi seats for the seat belt indication. they are also heated so that’s my next project to look into getting them working. Just need to give them a good clean. My wife thinks they make the car go faster 😳😂

Yes my mechanic said this too - I am planning to lower with Eibach Pro - asked him about the adjustable end links - he said he has had several fail and snap - the stock plastic endlinks are fine - in his view - unless you are going to slam the car - there is no need for adjustable end links.

Update after speaking with Skoda. Basically, nope its not possible to use a dual sim phone and have access to both of those sims (work & private) whilst connected to the audio system in the Skoda Karoq. So, I'll be trying to prioritise one of the SIM cards and will then see if the phone works when in the car. This will more than likely be my private number, and I'll ask 'work' to refer to their own policy about not using phones at all whilst driving. I'm sure that won't be popular, but that's just the way it goes sometimes.

They really don’t sell for a high price atm. If you want top money, stay away from FB groups and just stick to AutoTrader and Gumtree. Right now I could pick up a couple for £800-£1000 with less than 120,000 miles. Definitely more than you’d get trade price. Some may see the car as poverty spec, some won’t care at all, but I know that I’d pay more for a decent spec’d VRS. The key is, sing and dance about it in the ad, make it a decent one and a good lengthy read and be just as honest as you have been here and it will sell, and sell for good money, it may take a couple weeks. All the best!!

First impressions of the Michelin's on my first commute this morning is that they are as quiet as the Bridgestone S001 from the factory. The ride is still plush which did surprise me as these are 35 profile tyres and the factory ones are a higher 40 profile. Lastly my commute is 27.3 miles on factory tyres and as these are lower profile it now shows as 28.2 miles so over 10 commutes my mileage has risen from 273 miles to 282 miles. So an indicated full tank of 564 miles will be an actual 546 miles. I can live with this as I have no plans to sell the car until it has covered at least 100,000 miles. The good news for those that don't appreciate my fuel consumption data I will stop as it will be over reading by 18 miles per tank I can't be bothered to do the conversion and will enjoy the driving instead.

Ohh yeah! How good do these look? A huge improvement by Kohl Rod & Custom Ltd. Sanitised, rebuilt and replaced foam, repaired and re-assembled. They look and feel way better.

Engine oil optimum temp range is 230- 250° F which is 110 - 120° C

Ah ok, did not realise this was on petrol versions apart from the RS. Because of your daytime temperatures, the engine is always going to run hotter than they would do in Europe or here in GB for example.

The coding I used is: 1441884 That's a LHD with 2WD. Should be the same for your 1.4 TSI as mine.

How many times I have to mention that sw upgrade must be made from service menu.... (long press menu button)... and that all files must be unpacked to FAT32 formatted SD card, initialized under MBR, and must be unpacked to the root folder (file metainfo2.txt and all folders must be directly in the root)...

All other users check your PM

I'm not saying it can't happen, but in ten years on this forum I don't recall seeing a single thread where it had happened. Any head gasket will blow if an engine is allowed to overheat badly enough by a mindless driver ignoring the temperature gauge and continuing to use the car.

On this forum ? 😁 😉

WTF £100k for the options

Is this of any help?:

So, went and had a look this afternoon, took a good test drive (bit longer than planned as I got slightly lost!) and the upshot is a deposit was paid and we hope to get it by the end of next week! Now just got to work out how to park 3 cars in 2 spaces...🤔 Thanks again everyone, looking forward to being part of the Yeti community!

That’s interesting, thought you lost a stop regardless with a converter. I struggle with the 100-400 when snapping the rugby in fading winter light, otherwise it’s good for Motorsport, panning at slow shutter speed mostly, though I prefer the 70-200 if I can get away with shorter reach. Thankfully it didn’t cost me too much to upgrade, MPB are good and new 5D4 was a grey import. R5 looks good, nice spec too! Probably big price. Might go mirrorless one day, though want to grow into and get the most out of the 5D first. Not keen on changing lenses as well, not sure how well the mirrorless work with the EF system. As you Amanda, COVID came along and messed up my life plan figuratively speaking that is.. I’ve Just retired at 55 and looking to move, so not keen on spending too many penny’s, might have to look to returning to work while the world sorts itself out. All the best with getting through this. I’ll finish with another shot from Hastings..

I did the same to one of my Gemini’s a couple of years ago. Filed the rough bits off with a fine file, then gently sanded it. Coming to your point, I then sealed it with the clear lacquer from a touch up kit, which did the job until it was properly sorted. Gaz