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Gloss Metallic Chameleon Purple Blue wrap using Teckwrap USA . The metallic chameleon finish brings out the muscular lines of the Superb and accentuates the side profile spectacularly as well.

Gloss Metallic Chameleon Purple Blue wrap using Teckwrap USA . The metallic chameleon finish brings out the muscular lines of the Superb and accentuates the side profile spectacularly as well.

You should have a heated screen? Mine does although I am still not certain which features were extras as bought out of the showroom. The wires are very fine and I only notice them occasionally when there is bright sun and you sometimes see the light rainbowing slightly as it comes through. After about 11 years without a heated windscreen after many years with it in prior Ford card I had it in my last Yeti and now in new Karoq and it is a feature I consider essential now like the dsg gearbox.

Spent a happy afternoon disassembling the front passenger door on our 05-plate Fabia, after repeatedly observing the following behaviour. If the car is unlocked with the fob, and just the front passenger door opened, it re-locks itself after a short while as if it doesn't know that door has been opened. Not 100% of the time, but more and more often. Also; and noticed as long ago as a year back, is that sometimes when driving, the car either attempts to or actually does lock itself, partially or completely, and sometimes immediately unlocking again, often when braking or cornering. Locking and unlocking behaviours without any active input. All a bit random. I've made previous attempts to fix this second symptom, but all unsuccessful. One involved repairing wires with cracked insulation in the drivers side a-pillar bellows, together with cleaning up and replacing some pins in the connectors at that pillar, as there was some corrosion evident, likely caused by water ingress past a poorly re-fitted rubber boot/bellows. Another was inspecting and 'contact cleaning' the same pins/connections on the passenger side. Yet another was an extremely optimistic (i.e. pointless) spraying of contact cleaner into the general area of the door-open microswitches, with no disassembly, just through the holes on the back edges of the doors. For today's attempt, I was expecting at least the door open microswitch would need replacing, but wasn't really sure that that alone could explain both symptoms. Not done enough testing at all to be sure that what I found does cover both, but optimistic for now. Here's the lock, fully removed as per @Tech1e's guide for window regulator replacement; plus a bag containing a genuine replacement microswitch. I didn't fancy grafting that switch into the existing wiring, following a bad experience of having to revisit this work on my Polo after trying this shortcut. Two inline crimps are supplied with these microswitches to make such a technique easy. Soldering the wires directly to the pins of the connector on the topside of the circuit board was successful back then, on that one, at the second visit. Can't really remember why I didn't completely remove the old wiring from the board, possibly reluctance to do that final bit of disassembly to get at the reverse of the board, 'twas a few years ago, I forget. This is what the board looks like before complete removal. And this is the underside after removal, showing the connector connections and microswitch solder joints, all coated in a thick layer of brake-cleaner-resistant conformal coating of some type. I couldn't really see much of the joints through this dark brown coating, but did think I was observing a little more movement than expected - when waggled gently - of the connector relative to the board. Cleaned away by scalpel a few bits of the brown coating to get a better look, and one joint was particularly grim. It's the earth connection, which goes to the door open microswitch and some other places... Here's a very brief video of it being waggled: 20200910_155143.mp4 I swapped the new microswitch in as well, as it made no sense not to. Everything's pretty much back up together again now, but only 3 out 10 rivets replaced, and no door card yet. I will await feedback from the owner on both types of misbehaviour before finishing it off, I think.

Yeah it is. I don’t pretend to know what it is, but it’s not activated on the FL cars like it is on the PFL but once you make those changes they work

That’s normal, it’s not very loud.

No orange wheels? Are you feeling OK?

Chrome rub strips off, and now sporting 30 or so additional horses thanks to the team @UNIT18 Automotive with @p-torque.co.uk on the software. 😎

I think it goes: press 1 adjust the seat how you want press set press 2 adjust the seat how you want press set. hopefully then when you press 1 the next time it’ll return to how you want it. pretty sure this is how I did mine, not sure if that’s what the manual says or not!

And this, which totally changes the look of the front end considering what a small detail it is 👍

Activation of second rear fog. I have a 2017 SE-L Estate RHD UK spec, with LED headlights and NON LED rear lights. I found that only the right hand fog light came on but on checking established that there was a bulb fitted in the left hand cluster and could see it was not an LED through the lens. I followed the initial steps to activate but nothing happened. Then I found the key to the change that would activate it. Controller 09 - Central Electronics 16 - Security Access - enter 31347 10 - Adaptations Then look at both of the following settings to establish what the differences are. Leuchte26NSL LA72 Leuchte27NSL RC6 When viewing either of the above there are 3 values that will be different: LASTTYP which will be the top value LICHTFUNKTION either A26 or A27 and DIMMWERT AB26 or AB27 Whichever has the values in is the active lamp. You need to make a note of them and make the other the same The main one is the LASTTYP. That indicates the type of lamp you have fitted. Right down the value as you will be looking for the same lamp on the other side. All of the adaptations have suggested "32 allgemeine LED bis 12W" This is a type of lamp and may not be the same as yours. Once you select LASTTYP you will see a long list of different lamp types. Select the one that matches the lamp you already have. Then change Both LICHTFUNKTION A26 and A27 to Nebelschlusslicht wenn kein Anhaenger gesteckt and DIMMWERT either AB26 or AB27 which ever is the setting that is on 0 to match the other value. I found it to be 100. Hope this helps. I found the above in the OBD Eleven Forum . It worked fine with my basic LED rear lights which have bulbs in the rear fog lights.

OK, it looks like the problem was J322 power control relay, labelled “100”, the only relay in top of engine bay fuse box. Elsawin describes it as “diesel direct injection system relay”. Skoda Indian Queens replaced it as a first port of call, and a week later there has been no further failure to start, so hopefully that’s it. My visit to the dealer was actually fairly painless in the end. (Courtesy car was an electric Citigo - interesting, but not enough to tempt me away from proper cars). Irritatingly, I had thought of replacing that relay myself - should have acted on it. Anyway, it seems the same relay is used on other VW Group diesels, so perhaps this result may be of help to anyone with a similar problem.

Do you have the latest version of the VCDS cable?

You would really need to see the wheels in the flesh so to speak. The two blended images could've had completely different lighting so not 100% accurate.

I use this one as it’s cheaper to buy in the long run, but there are many different ones from the likes of meguiars or valet pro etc as well. just realised you can’t tell, but that’s a 20 litre drum. Makes the above easier to understand.

What's your sauce of inflammation?

If one dealer won't give you the information, then try another and if none of them will, then forward a formal letter of complaint to Skoda, citing the reason of complaint, that you wish to order a part, but they are being obstructive and will not help you.

Here is a link for a pair: https://www.masterofbumpers.com/skoda-octavia-2013-2016-led-drl-xenon-headlights-pair-genuine?gclid=EAIaIQobChMItOHsr8Dj6wIVia3tCh3EpQMXEAQYASABEgIRb_D_BwE Just drivers side: https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/293337483676?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=293337483676&targetid=939009505666&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9045098&poi=&campaignid=10199631724&mkgroupid=103308049633&rlsatarget=pla-939009505666&abcId=1145987&merchantid=115200149&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItOHsr8Dj6wIVia3tCh3EpQMXEAQYBCABEgJ27fD_BwE Just Passengers side: https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/283908177919?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=283908177919&targetid=939009506106&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9045098&poi=&campaignid=10199631724&mkgroupid=103308049633&rlsatarget=pla-939009506106&abcId=1145987&merchantid=115248805&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItOHsr8Dj6wIVia3tCh3EpQMXEAQYByABEgJqifD_BwE

Found it eibachshop.com

I have to bring swmbo to the shops so apologies for being short. that’s not the original shop, but it’s definitely the last link that the buyer is lead to.

What, because potentially it's fried? Or completely burgered?

After doing a search (and by chance) I came across and Eibach agent in Poland that was cheaper and quicker than the one English Eibach agent I tried. I’ll look for the link.

It’s an Eibach spring kit plus Eibach spacers.

If you have a VC, it comes up with a warning saying key battery low or something like that, mine did it the other day outside Lidl, so I popped back in and got 4x keyfob batteries for a £3. That'll keep me going for a while. It's the same noise as all the other faults.

You can’t, which is just the way they like it. Just love the way we’re being told that the civil service is working really efficiently on reduced manning and shirking from home. Even I could be efficient if I could avoid actually doing something the computer could easily spit out without intervention if a humanoid.

Not sure which video review I saw it on (Maybe Thomas’ review on Autogeful) but the ice scraper lives in a slot on the left hand side of the tailgate. Simply clever !

Well well .... how on earth do you contact them now! As you say they don't respond and the 'contact us' tab on the website just takes you round in circles. Sorry I'm baffled now!

Looks like DVLA doesn’t want to know via resolver.

Your best starting place is to see if the belt needs adjusting. As it was only done recently I'd like to think whoever done it would do the adjustment for you for free as it means they didn't do a perfect job of the initial fitting. Your other options after this: 1) Get the belt changed again as it could be a ever so slightly imperfect cambelt. Whilst this may cause you no other issues it is going to always give you that noise. Again if you have only had it done recently and you have a good relationship with the person who done it - it could be a worthy discussion saying "appreciate you've fitted my new cambelt. However, it is making this noise? Could it be a dodgy belt?" - they may take ownership if it is and not charge you for a new one. 2) If the noise is something you can live with then potentially just leave it, it may end up costing you to get it either adjusted or replaced and you could then just end up with the same issue. Unfortunately, cars will make noises and start making noises. Where there is an immediate change in your driving experience you definitely never leave it, as soon as you notice a change in your driving experience you get it looked at. Some noises - regardless of change in performance - you will know they sound serious and will want to get these looked at straight away. 3) Treat yourself to a new car. I mean this light hearted and as a bit of a light joke to finish on... But I kid you not... I have a mate who bought a new car because his car was in his words "falling apart"... It had to have the break pads and discs done... Just your standard wear and tear but nope, this was a calamity and warranted buying a new car. Hope you either get it resolved or if not learn to comfortably live with it .

I found the same problem when trying to contact DVLA let alone complain- which is why I finally found and used the Resolver website as indicated above.

Thanks for the message, its a new noise as off Thursday.

ive used mine a few times

Not a chance a tuning box has got you 227bhp. Look around, even the best remaps quote 210 as a max on the cr170.

They are wrong, there is a replaceable filter which must be done on oil changes.

Not the best background.... New all black badges, lettering and rear diffuser...all stands out on the red... Ironic really, as i am 95% certain the car is being part-ex for a race blue vrs with 19s extreme and lots of extras... Taking it for a test drive next week and will try my best to keep my bank card in my pocket...but i know its going to be very very difficult to resist lol

Yes

That's a pity, is it the Edition trim do you know? Thanks for replying!

I think thats the best option, track and trace

+1^^^, 2014 Yeti 1.2 TSI with timing chain, never needed to top up between services from new, 6 - 8k miles per year.

found the issue with the sound - my bass/treble balance was messed up (had the bass cranked up)

If you are happy to plug in a tuning box then why not get a code reader. OBDeleven is a good choice but there are many out there that dont cost a load and you'll get the outlay back in no if you traditionally pay a garage to clear codes.

If you click the heart on people's posts it gives you different reactions, sort of like Facebook. Did you want any links or did you order one?

Not a problem, dropping some thank you reactions would be appreciated . Did you find a unit? If not I can try help with some links if you need them.

Go to the dealer, they should be able to look up all of the parts applicable to your car via the VIN and order appropriately.

Yep. Replacement of the whole unit, whilst is going to be initially more expensive, it's more cost effective in the long term as you won't have a recurring fault.

Exactly my thought, also by replacing the insides without fixing the source of the issue you surely just risk the issue happening again and again and again.

Badges ordered from Superskoda.

Is this the sort of thing? https://www.ledperf.co.uk/pack-sidelights-led-xenon-white-for-skoda-octavia-3-5e-with-bixenon-afs-p-4950.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7_Lph8nU6wIVybTtCh1uZA_AEAQYBCABEgLTrvD_BwE My concern is that if you leave the crack you will just get moisture again. I think you will need to get the casing replaced if that is where the crack is.