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Which surely proves all the alien abduction theory's: Your memory is being wiped. Pay up.

Fixed that for you

There you go Chris Will add some better pics soon

I have bought something else. But I've not got it yet so I'm keeping quiet. It's looking like Tuesday to get it. It's being delivered since the BMW is still off the road. They'll take it away on trade plates.

And just to present my credentials, if I may, I have been working in lubricant R&D for 28+ years for one of the well-known oil brands. I've worked on everything from motorcycle to ship engine oils, as well as transmissions, turbines etc.

That's how the nomenclature was first developed, but it isn't really like that any more. What you say is largely correct, but doesn't quite go far enough. The "5W" is saying the oil is behaving like a '5' grade would when cold and the "30" bit is saying it is behaving like a '30' grade would when hot. In this case a monograde 30 would be too thick when cold and a monograde '5' would be too thin when hot, hence the multigrade performance and nomenclature. In reality the two halves of the visc grade are tested under very different conditions. The 'W' (for "winter") number is tested under very cold conditions to determine if the oil can flow and pump when cold - one test is called the 'cold cranking simulator' (CCS) and one called 'mini rotary viscometer' (MRV). For an oil that is "xW-yy", the CCS is tested at -(35-x)°C and the MRV i tested at -(40-x)°C. An oil has to flow and pump effectively in these tests in order to pass them. The yy number is mostly derived from a simple viscosity test at 100°C (oil falling through a tube and timed between two marks).

As @Wino says, oil viscosity varies continuously with temperature, down to the point at which it 'freezes' and up to the point it boils or catches fire. The viscosity classification (eg 5W-30) gives some idea of how the oil behaves when cold (the 'W' number) and when at 100°C (the second number). 100°C is considered to be a typical bulk operating temperature but obviously in the course of doing its job the oil experiences a wide range of temperatures, from cold start to the top piston ring or piston undercrown. If you can look at the technical data sheet for an engine oil, the value that helps you understand the effect of temperature on viscosity is the viscosity index (VI). The higher this number, the less the viscosity changes with temperature. So, an oil with a VI of 120 will vary more than an oil with a VI of 150. If both of these oil have the same viscosity at 100°C then the lower VI oil will be thicker when cooler and thinner when hotter than this. The relationship is not linear - it is a fairly complex logarithmic relationship. I would consider an oil to be 'warm' around the 60-70°C mark - this is the temperature that some of the active ingredients really start getting to work properly. This isn't the final operating temperature and I wouldn't expect an oil temperature (measured in the sump) to stabilise here. In an engine the oil does warm up significantly slower than the coolant, largely because the coolant is thermostatically controlled and only the small portion within the block is circulated at first, whereas all of the oil is circulated all of the time, so is a significantly larger mass to heat and is exposed to the cooling effect of the sump. I recall that in my Yeti TDi the oil would just about reach 90°C on my 30 minute work commute in the winter and would cool noticeably during any time spent idling.

as far as I'm concerned, if I can read a number, the engine is warm. Especially from a -20C start. I might only see 65-70C in winter. - Bret

If someone is looking for a SW for the MIB you can grab from here list of availiable SW below for (audi, VW, Skoda, seat) Information was getting from german site:www.digital-eliteboard.co…0571/page-84#post-3811658 Additionaly you can find the way how to unlock features like Mirolink Aple car play nav and so on it was an original goal of that thread MIB2 High: mega.nz/folder/rdxF3TzB#RKPXpjFVzgPrEna2mP1_zA MIB2.5 High: mega.nz/folder/3Y5T2Z5A#L2endnMmtyOdbjr_K1oDyw Skoda: Columbus VW: Discover Pro, Discover media Seat: Navi System Plus Audi: MMI4G/MMI Plus manufactured by Harman Seat_PQ: MST2_EU_SE_PQ_P0363T_5F0919360F MST2_EU_SE_PQ_P0252T_5F0919360D Seat_ZR: MST2_EU_SE_ZR_P0252T_5F0919360A MST2_EU_SE_ZR_P0363T_5F0919360E MST2_EU_SE_ZR_P0469T_5F0919360G MST2_EU_SE_ZR_P0475T Skoda_PQ: MST2_EU_SK_PQ_P0138T MST2_EU_SK_PQ_P0252T MST2_EU_SK_PQ_P0253T Skoda_ZR: MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0252T_S0010001599 MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0253T_V0020171002 MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0367T_V0020180501 MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0475T_5F4H5Q00358 MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0478T MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0366T_0366 MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0468T_0468 VW_PQ: MST2_CN_VW_PQ_P0252T_0252 MST2_CN_VW_PQ_P0253T_0253 MST2_CN_VW_PQ_P0363T_0363 MST2_CN_VW_PQ_P0367T_0367 MST2_CN_VW_PQ_P0475T_0475 MST2_EU_VW_PQ_P0245T-0245 MST2_EU_VW_PQ_P0253T_0253 MST2_EU_VW_PQ_P0363T_0363 MST2_RoA_VW_PQ_P0252T_0252 MST2_RoA_VW_PQ_P0253T_0253 MST2_RoA_VW_PQ_P0363T_0363 MST2_RoA_VW_PQ_P0367T_0367 MST2_RoA_VW_PQ_P0475T_0475 MST2_US_VW_PQ_P0253T_3G0919360DP MST2_US_VW_PQ_P0367T_3G0919360CL MST2_US_VW_PQ_P0478T_3G0919360JP VW_ZR: MST2_EU_VW_ZR_P0140T_3G0919360P MST2_EU_VW_ZR_P0252T_3G0919360AC MST2_EU_VW_ZR_P0363T_3G0919360AJ MST2_EU_VW_ZR_P0469T_3G0919360BL MST2_EU_VW_ZR_P0475T_0475 MIB 2 High Aud: (A3) MHI2_ER_AU37x_P5089 MU1326 (A3) MHIG_EU_AU_K1549 MU0404 (A4-A5-Q5-Q7) MHI2_ER_AUG22_K3346 MU1438 (A4-A5-Q5-Q7) MHI2Q_ER_AUG22_P5092 MU1329 (A6-A7) MHI2_ER_AU57x_K3663 MU1425 (Q2) MHI2_ER_AU276_P5088 MU1325 (R8) MHI2_ER_AU62x_P5099 MU1340 (TT) MHI2_ER_AU43x_P5098 MU1339 Seat: MHI2_ER_SEG11_P4708 MU1409 Skoda: MHI2_ER_SKG11_K3343 MU1433 MHI2_ER_SKG13_P4526 MU1440 MHIG_EU_SK_K1552 MU0411 VW: MHI2_ER_VWG11_K3332 MU1187 MHI2_ER_VWG11_K3342 MU1427 MHI2_ER_VWG13_P4521 MU1367 MHIG_EU_VW_K1550 MU0407 VW: discover media2 : mega.nz/folder/DRZQ1a6b#Y…PHzHfTs2Q/folder/uAhH3CrC MST2_EU_VW_P0635D MST2_EU_VW_P0867D MST2_EU_VW_P0891D MST2_EU_VW_P9122D MST2_US_VW_P0635D MST2_US_VW_P0867D

Go for it. Once I do mine I can let you know the exact method and we can take it from there.

Oh dear those are not nice alloys

This is a good point to raise. As someone who happens to work in this area (security, mainly) - if anyone at the garage raises 'GDPR / UK Data Protection Act 2018' as a reason not to show you receipts from previous owners etc, I'd advise the following: A) ask for the clause in their privacy policy regarding this (i.e. don't let them fob you off with a made-up / half-understood "store policy" approach). Read what it says and/or ask them to explain their justification. and B) ask them to anonymise any documentation (e.g. scan / photocopy and black out the previous owner's address). As a potential buyer, you have a justifiable reason ("legitimate interest") to get written assurance that the car you are looking to buy meets your requirements and expectations. If it's within the capability of the garage / seller etc to anonymise documentation, which they will have to hand somehow (unless they're utter tools), they should do so. You're not looking for who owned it; you're looking for what was done to the car, when - as per normal car history stuff (e.g. servicing intervals, modifications, repairs etc). It's probably a minor point to raise, but I'm sick of common sense and genuine requirements from legitimate interests getting arbitrarily blocked through ignorance of data protection legislation. #NerdRantOver 😉

I recommend Meyle HD droplinks, PSB polybushes over the Cupra bushes because they're a doddle to fit and Febi for the rest of the bits.

No, see here: https://www.opieoils.co.uk/t-multi-grade-car-engine-oils-explained.aspx 100°C is the point at which the right-hand number is measured. "Winter" and "summer" would be too vague.

I think the YouTuber comment is a bit sweeping ... Harry's Gararge .. High Peak Autos ..Mr JWW just a few that spring immediately to mind.

We had a traders policy, so at 19 I was driving a 24V Carlton. Always loved the Rover turbos though. Had a 220 turbo coupe, several 620ti’s and a couple of 820 vitesse’s. This 272 sort of reminds me of a modern version of the latter two.

Still doesn’t explain all the pre ownership “my vRS is so much better than your 280/272 superb” comments then went and bought one which then wasn’t good enough so had to be remapped which then turned into a “my car is so economical yet it’s obviously much faster than everyone else’s” (Harry Enfield sketch comes to mind...) and now suddenly it’s being traded in for a 150 diesel. Something doesn’t add up, I’m with Nick-H even though I’ve only owned for a few weeks I ain’t getting rid of this one for years!!!

Welcome everyone to my Dad’s new workhorse, this 2011 61 Octavia 1.6 TDI S. It’s very very basic (no remote locking basic) and it’s sitting down at the rear as it’s full of my new seats lol but yeah, other than some general detritus, bit of surface rust in places and a flashing glow plug light as the brake pedal switch is faulty (love the OBDEleven for convenient fault finding on the spot) which I negotiated down on and it’s impressive 202,500 miles I’m extremely impressed with it. Some tidy up, some mods and some retrofits are coming and with some shrewd negotiating we stole it with MoT till November 2021 and £30 annual road tax at £1200 😀 Things that have already been ordered: Leather steering wheel Leather gearknob and gaiter Cruise control and trip computer stalks (it already has a cruise control ready clock spring) Jumbo box, armrest, leather handbrake with the Aux port Brake pedal switch Full service gear Right indicator in the mirror as it doesn’t work Things I need to work out and would appreciate help with as I’m new to the 1Z platform Remote locking - super surprised it doesn’t have this as I’d have thought by 2011 even the S would but hey ho, is it a case of a new CCM with remote function, take the transponder from a key, do the coding to match and a remote and an extra wire for signal boost? Can I use the blade from one of the keys here or will I have to get a new one cut? Also, how do you get into the non remote keys? Rear speakers? Is the wiring there for these or does it have to be added if we want them? Can’t wait to learn more about the Mk2, super impressed with it already!

About 99.99999% sure it has to be a scam. 1. No details from my driving licence. 2. They don't know my address. 3. They don't know who I am. 4. No details of car or reg. 5. Nowhere near charge road at that time. 6. No contact details other than a Telephone number given but they declare that as temporarily unavailable. 7. Only payment option is card online. 8. Not very well written. 9. Does not state where. The more I type dafter it sounds. Anyone else had one of these? Is this one that is doing the rounds at present?

And we are off....making things look pretty and hopefully non leaky.

They are the same up to 10MY when they changed to a fully fledged BCM. They have the same 6Q0, 6Q1 and 6Q2 variants though.

Aye I've been done in France and Germany despite never having visited either since passing my test.

I'd gladly pay you to do mine rest assured but I am just a bit... far from you I'm afraid Am I allowed to bug you about details via PM?

I suppose that's similar to you asking your dealer if Skoda minded your car being remapped and would honour the warranty if something went wrong. You did ask your dealer before going ahead with it didn't you? Anyway, this thread is about the ability and wherewithal to be able to 'tinker' for want of a better word, with the screen settings - not wondering if a Bentley clock face will end up causing an accident and invalidating the insurance cover.

Just wondering do you invalidate your warranty every time you change the coding on your car or does your dealer authorise it and you keep the warranty. Also do you inform your insurance company of all these changes because if an accident is caused as a result of messing with the coding you would be up the creek without a paddle.

I reckon this is one of the best things on the Skoda. Got a surprise when I collected the car from it's service and it was switched off. Wondered why I was rolling back when I stopped!

Also I confirmed the coding for the MFD startup splash screens as below: Version 6 is Sportline on mine as I posted originally.

I've read a few cases of people having bought a secondhand car with a manufacturer backed warranty and later having the warranty cancelled when they had a valid claim. The reason being they had unwittingly bought a modified car from the dealer and the dealer had noticed the mod after the car came back, but not before they sold it. Personally I would never knowingly buy a modified car (not including OEM additions) unless it was a very unusual/special vehicle that modifying was important to the final result. I'm thinking of something like a Cobra replica that had been tweaked over the years. I don't believe that cars have the over engineering that was once prevalent, as we can engineer tighter tolerances and so save money on build and materials. Hence, simply adding power is more of a potential recipe for disaster than it has ever been, doubly so as turbo tweaks yield big torque gains very easily and cheaply. It's one of the reasons that a manufacturer doesn't just take a car and turn the wick up to 11 to be faster than a competitor's car and for no extra cost in the build. Instead, they beef up brakes, suspension, transmission etc all at extra cost, to them and you, when it would be the easier and incorrect way to simply turn up the boost.

@skippy41 - despite what the three MOT testers are telling you, LED kits in headlights designed for halogen bulbs are a fail. It's in the current MOT inspection manual: 4.1.4 (c) 'Light source and lamp not compatible' It's was also confirmed by a DVSA worker back in 2018 shortly after the new regulations came out: If you really want to put your mind at rest, put halogen bulbs back in and stop messing around with LED conversion kits...

Well that ties in with my original gut feeling, so it's nice to have a guesstimate vindicated by an expert. What I hadn't considered was that the increased engine tolerances when the engine is cold benefit from a thicker oil, that makes a lot of sense. (I seem remember an old "fix" for worn engines was to use a slightly thicker oil.) The giant book of things I don't know gets a few lines shorter today.

I can imagine I'm driving a Lambo with my virtual dash until I notice the redline starts at 5,000rpm.........

Black/blue wire is feed from switch, brown is earth.

Gaaaa! I can't stand that Engineering Explained you tuber. Patronizing american twerp. As Bret says, once you get a reading from the oil temp display it's OK to consider it warmed up. The water cooling circuit on these engines (you and I have the same) is complex, designed to bring it up to temp quickly for emissions and fuel efficiency reasons.

Ive used similar ones and they do work

Thats what they used to say about me!

I've been on both sides of the modified car game as a modifier and also as a motorsaleswoman (is that a word?). I sold a modified Uno Turbo ie (mkII) and declared it to the garage when I traded it in for a Clio 16V (the original one ). I got a call after a relatively short while from the new owner, telling me the turbo had blown up. I said I had declared it to the dealer and he said he knew of the mod (it was fairly obvious, especially once you had driven the understeering monster ), but was disappointed. I asked if he was using the recommended octane booster? and avoiding massive 5th gear pulls up the M62 (Windy Hill for those who know it) and he said he had being doing exactly those things! Charging up and down on the M62 and running on the cheapest fuel he could find. I had little sympathy for him, but it does show that while I owned the modified car I had no problem, but perhaps I gave the next owner a more fragile car, or he was plain unsympathetic and drove the car hard all the time. Shy drives his car like my Dad so it probably isn't going to go pop in the immediate future, but it is a certainty that the life expectancy of certain components of his car will have been reduced. Simple engineering and physics dictate this. When I was a saleswoman, chip tuning wasn't so popular in those days as cars were much less sophisticated and I only got caught foul of it once. The boss went mad when we found out as he said he wanted to be shot of it immediately, so we sent it off to the block. Perhaps he overreacted or perhaps he was prescient to it's future, either way he didn't want the hassle of it coming back with a con-rod poking out of the block (he didn't put it quite so eloquently!) Usually, tweaked cars are fun for the modding owner, but a pain for all the next buyers imho

It’s a scam. I’ve had three already this week. There’s a warning on gov website if you google it.

Likewise on Pagid cables. Skoda ones ( from TPS ) are possibly reasonable with trade discount. But Pagid from ECP are reasonable ( if like a certain furniture store,you choose the right time). As for cable thickness - the origonal and the Pagid one ( without resorting to a micrometer) appear to be of the same thickness. The compensator- great if you use two new cables. I'd suspect that after a lot of years( 13) the passenger side had stretched a bit, making adjusting the compensator difficult, if not nigh on impossible. Older cars I've had relied on an arm inside the drum to operate the shoes in handbrake mode and the lever had to be at right angles to the shoes before the handbrake was applied to be at max efficiency. The lever was difficult to obtain, so I always followed the advice an old Vauxhall foreman gave me if I had a problem handbrake and levers were not available- build up the worn edge with a weld. I've always seen this method last for over a year. I even had one MOT tester ask how I got a Maxi handbrake to work so well. The adjustor- it wasn't that the grooves had worn, just that in uppermost position it got stuck. Even after a good rub down with emery paper and a soak in brake cleaner and a coating of brake grease it still stuck. In the end I cheated and manually moved it down till I could get the drum on with a little tap. I then tensioned the cable slightly before pulling the handbrake on three times. Bit of a faff on, but I then released the tension and tried to get the drum off. The fact that it was tight proved that the wedge had dropped. I knew I'd got it right when on first handbrake click the compensator was level and both rear wheels were equally hard to move. TMB- again many thanks- I've found my local VAG dealer is a better place to go to than the Skoda main dealer. One last point- on the handbrake cable that stuck . On removal, I noticed that where it's held on the clip etc nearest the handbrake lever, that there was evidence of the outer being damaged with a bit of rust . I also noticed evidence of rust pitting on the other cable . Possibly just my car, but others with cars approaching 12 might want to drop the cable and inspect.

Subjective subject. Who's getting their vcds to log it then for a few days real world driving, would love to see some graphs of that. 2.0 TDI. From cold on dual carriageway runs when coolant has warmed to 90C (~5miles) oil is just reading 50-60C. Another few miles beyond that I'm happy to stamp the gas if required

That would have involved needing to have a Freedom account though!

Simplified with a TSI. The Coolant is when up to temp around the low 90*oC's, and the oil which is also a coolant gets to the efficient temp of around 90's C, and get hotter and the coolant system of the radiator, cooling fans at lower speeds are trying to bring the oil temp back down to a lower temp when it can. So the oil can get hot, but you do now want it staying there when the engine is not under load. You also do not want it going low, so in very cold weather there might be grill blinds, pieces of board etc used to stop the flow of very cold air to the radiator and engine department.

You'll probably get 1000 different academic answers from this wonderful forum, since it's all dependent on the engine make/model/tolerances & oil spec used within the engine 😉 As a general rule of thumb (& as I'm sure you're well aware), the indicated coolant temp meets its 'normal' level much faster than the oil itself. Oil takes a while for it all to warm up and become less viscous, therefore putting less friction on the engine components & doing its job properly. Personally with my VRS, for example, typically sits between an indicated 95 deg C (which I regard as the 'cool end') to 105 deg C (usually 'middle' - e.g. motorway driving). I'd consider 'Hot' to be 115 deg C+ in normal driving, unless doing track days etc. I'll take it gently for the first 5-10 minutes of driving where it starts increasing from the indicated oil temp from 50 deg C -->. My personal approach is to wait until it hits 90 deg C, where I (subjectively) feel that it's "warmed up" to allow more spirited driving etc; but appreciate others might think differently. I'm not sure there's any definitive answer online unless someone is a verified VAG engineer, but typically anyone with mechanical sympathy & understanding will limit any spirited driving or overrevving until the oil meets at least 80 deg C, where it starts to reach its operating temperature.

I've had my Joying for about 18 months in my 2010 Superb and I've not had an issue with parking sensors, they work perfectly. I don't know where they get their power from. I am mostly happy with the unit but there are a couple of things that Joying can't or won't sort out. The first is that Google voice calling (or voice anything) doesn't work. It used to at least respond with a reply to my request to "call xxx" with "I'm sorry I can't do that yet" but now it doesn't do anything, just ignores me. Luckily though my phone picks up my request and it is transferred to the Joying so handsfree calling is possible. The other more worrying issue is that if I allow the Joying to sync my contacts with Google it wipes all of my contacts from Google and I have to restore them from a backup. Another issue I've just remembered. I can only control the volume from the thumb wheel on the steering controls. The problem is if I spin the wheel too quickly the volume goes to its maximum and the only way to fix it is to mute it or pull over turn off the engine, pull the key and restart the car. Also I can't adjust the volume up or down using the touch screen, (there are no buttons or knobs). It just seems to re-adjust the volume to a start up setting made in the units settings, if that makes sense. Despite all that I am happy with it, it's just like having a 10 inch (250mm) tablet in the dash. There are newer models and other makes so the problems I'm having may have been fixed. There is a lot of information on xda developers. This is a link to the unit with similar specifications to the one I have. https://forum.xda-developers.com/android-auto/android-head-units/joying-android-8-1-intel-airmont-eight-t3897206

I got distracted over the weekend just gone, ended up doing a full exterior and interior detail on this.. It's my dads Fabia 1.9 TDi 100PD Ambiente which he's had from new and only done 40k. He's approaching 80 so has reduced enthusiasm for scrabbling about polishing cars so I took pity on it and gave the old girl some love. It's a lovely old thing, drives perfectly and so smooth. Anyway, I have now had all the wheels back from Project Powder Coating in Brierley Hill and they are utterly flawless, glossy and smooth. And Yellow. Fitted back up with the new tyres, and back on the car. The cars still up on stands as it's easier to work on while we get it running. Speaking of running.... The running in map is now loaded up, just need to change a bit of fuel hose i'm not happy with and replace a suspect crank sensor with new genuine one and we should be good to fire..

First thing to check is the CAPS lock button.

Incredibly interesting Shy.

Creative writing also seems to be a strong point too.

Unfortunately a lot of those viewers would have been enticed by the title and subsequently disappointed by the content though.

I know from experience that the already optimistic Maxidot figures become even more fantasylike after a remap! I reset mine with VCDS but after fooling myself for so long (and I knew from the brim to brim figures that I was) I jst could not cope with the now true low mpg figures being shown 😞 On my Octavia I decided to put it back & to make up for my dissapointment I overcorrected it the other way as much as it would let me (+ 9% IIRC) and then I was getting the sort of figures that some like to photograph and post on here. I sold the vehicle last week and the guy is over the moon with the fuel economy 😁 I wonder if it will take him as long to wise up as it did me 🤫

Thanks for the replies folks. All things considered, I'll make buying a full size spare a priority. We travel a fair bit in the country where the potholes have sharp sides and no amount of gunge will heal a tear in the sidewall. It's not a cheap option, but I keep my cars for around 8 yrs+, so it's peace of mind.