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The number is genuine but the Nationwide would probably not be calling from that number, the scammers definitely are not but are exploiting a weakness of the system which means they can make a genuine number falsely appear on your caller ID

Thanks EnterName looks like this is the problem. Just looked at the problem tracks. Under the general tab they look OK - Track correctly identified by name and Location correctly identifies artist and album. Under the details tab Album and Artist is Unknown, track is only identified as track 1. I have now manually entered the info into the Details Tab for one of the tracks and checked it in the car that seems to have fixed it. Thanks again.

Apparently - its very common after a search on the internet. Sometime ago - just a week or so into lock down - my car kept going into emergency mode on the gear box - it would only use even numbered gears. But could still be driven. Garage trip and a service later - they noticed a battery fault and replaced the start-stop main battery. They couldnt find an issue. So the issue happened to me several times since and on a major trip back home from holiday in Wales. So got it booked in a soon as I could - they couldnt fit me in for several weeks. During this time car was as good as gold with the exception of one incident - but its still wrong so kept my appointment. Garage called me - can't find anything wrong, so told them "drive it on a motorway at 70 and slow down a few time when its warm" - thats what seemed to cause it for me. They tried and it broke down and wouldnt select any gears this time - they had a laptop attached - bang Metatronic unit fault. So it may be a few weeks to a few months before fixed - lucky its under warranty and they are sending me a hire car - nice one VW - but it was so hard proving the initial issue - glad it broke down on the techs - lol - "Told you so!" springs to mind. Its very common when i looked up Metatronic unit - I'd have thought they'd have known that - i'm not a car mech! just so others know.

Is the MP3 track data populated? By that I mean this information, not just the filename. You can see on your PC if you right-click on an MP3 and select properties - Details This may be a factor.

Here are the numbers from a local brochure:

Until Ionity, FastNed and the like become more prevalent here, I agree. I'm also waiting for Model Y but pricing may be a bit too much for me. ID.4 and Enyaq (with heat pump) are also in the frame as these may be more affordable. By rights, none of these belong in this discussion as they are all north of £40k, let alone sub 30K

My ancient Mk.2 Superb 2.0 TSi was purchased when it was 9 months old, ( Feb. 2013) & was treated to an AMD Stage 1 map about 6 weeks later. I still own the car, it gets more use than our Golfs & it hasn't shown any sign of distress yet. AMD set the car up to run on 95 octane petrol, ('cos that's all that was available in this town), the before figures were 215 PS & 291 Nm, after the map it made 252 PS & 361 Nm. A decent & noticeable improvement, but probably not enough to to damage the engine & transmission. FWIW, we've also had AMD map 2 x VW EOS's & 2 x Octy vRS's. again all of them optimised to cope with 95 octane, no problems with any of them. The (very conservative) nominal 200 PS TSi's that Skoda used in the vRS & Superb were (& still are) very engines to live with, if they weren't my Superb wouldn't still be my daily driver............. (The last EOS was sold to enable the purchase of a Golf R hatch (mine) & the last vRS was swapped for a Golf R Wagon (her's), neither of them tweaked at all, both are nice cars but when driven on the same roads / speeds. they burn more fuel the the Superb, Not a problem given our low mileages but quite amusing.

No, it didn't have leather, it was Alcantara sort of suede like finish with "leather" sides and pseudo leather on the back of the front seats. Maybe some had leather as an option but my 2013 model certainly didn't.

The problem with the IV vRS (245BHP) and in fact the whole VAG hybrid 245BHP line up is once the battery is empty in 20 minutes you're left with an rather expensive 150BHP 1.5L TSI engine. What's the point of it? If you want a performance car , the performance has to be there all the time. If you want to save and poodle along on battery might as well buy an electric car. Would never buy this PHEV, either the full TSI245 or an electric car

Wanted to add my building/retrofit/cool-stuff experiences. Always hard to find detail and pictures in the wild so hoping this helps others. Badge and Emblem Replacement - Major Reason - I think the Black looks much better on the Steel Grey body paint than the factory chrome. Tips/Tricks/How-To 1) Give yourself plenty of time and make sure its not going to rain......the warmer the better as it makes removal easier. 2) Hair dryer on a low-setting will help to "loosen" the glue. Well its not glue its more like double-sided sticky-pad material. My car is only a month old so it may be harder on older cars as the adhesive will have set and the padding may come off in little pieces instead. 3) I used dental floss to "saw" through the glue holding the badges and emblems in place. You can use minty-fresh or plain dental floss :-) The front and rear badge have A LOT of the sticky-padding so keep working away at it. I found using an old ATM Card allows you to pry it off and doesn't scratch the paint. There are also 3 protruding plastic notches on the rear of the badge so it won't come off as easy as the emblems. Be warned it is near impossible to get the badges off without snapping them. The joy of the black protruding notches is that it will only line up and fit one way......and that's perfectly straight. 4) I used blue masking tape (painters-tape) to line up the original emblems as once you remove the sticky-pad and the residual adhesive you WON'T see the outline of the old emblems. After the work and cost you don't want to screw it up and have the emblem not straight........it'll **** you off every time you admire your work!! 5) Cleaning off the residual adhesive I used rubbing-alcohol and a CLEAN buffing cloth. Its easier if you can grab a little piece of the pad and SLOWLY pull it off as it comes off in one nice movement without the need to scrape off the adhesive with a fingernail. 6) Shine a light and look for any imperfections, you want the surface to be spotless, clean and dry before fitting the replacements. The joy of rubbing-alcohol is that it dries quick and leaves no residue. They're pretty much the factory-part so remove the rear protective strip and then line it up and press hard on the individual letters. I also used a paint-roller to roll over the emblem before removing the protective clear plastic just to be sure it was stuck on nice and flat. 7) Link for the badges and emblems. You can buy individual or a "pack". I opted for the body-paint coloured front and rear badges and the 3-pack for the emblems. http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/OCTAVIA-III/Octavia-III-original-Skoda-emblem-INT-version http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/OCTAVIA-III/Octavia-III-original-Skoda-MONTE-CARLO-black-emblem-set-´SKODA´--´OCTAVIA´--´RS-245´

If your car is saying the coolant level is low and it clearly isnt it could be because of this. Its a common fault and ive changed loads of them. The sensors rods cake up so cant sense the fluid level by completing a circuit through the coolant. The revised sensor in the expansion tank has a different design as seen in the photos. Also you will see the part number has changed to reflect the upgrade. Hope this helps anyone doing a search and a very easy fix. Main dealer expansion tanks are relatively cheap as well.

I would think that it would need calibration as said above. Surely if he's backed into your car with his, it should be claimed on his insurance and would therefore be done professionally for free anyway?

No. But issues with DPFs are well documented. A simple online search of "DPF problem" will reveal that quite a few owners have experienced issues. I was a little unhappy when I learned my petrol had a GPF, but supposedly they're less trouble than DPFs, though I am suspicious of that claim as they are too new to really have much data available. Post Script: This was my original statement. "Personally I was more concerned about reliability than cost/mile, and I figured a modern TSI would be more reliable for lots of short journeys than a modern TDI. That may turn out to be a mistake, time will tell." I'm not asserting anything as to the reliability of any particular engine. I'm simply saying I considered (rightly or wrongly) the TDI to be a riskier buy than the TSI, and purchased accordingly.

Regarding look of that expansion tank...Had the same issue on my car (2015, 1.6 tdi) and garage is fixing it for over a year (in warranty). Yours on the image looks like system is full of gunk and rust. Mine looked the same. Although I did not have heating issues. Regarding heating, try to recalibrate air went flaps. I do not think heating core is the clogged because you do have heating on one side..

Excellent! Glad I could help.

Do you have any evidence for that? The TDI is a more complicated engine, with an EGR valve, glow plugs, a DPF and AdBlue injection.

@MJ1 I don't have a DSG, but my manual 1.5TSI MY18 Karoq had an update at its first service in March, 2 weeks before national lockdown, so have done very little driving since. However since the cooler weather started, I've noticed 'wobbles' in low gear while the car is warming up. Can live with it in the current circumstances, but praying I never again get the life-threatening total power loss that I had before.

They will be spunking away your money by replacing the throttle pedal, the problem is soot build up from the EGR on the throttle body restricting the motion of the butterfly, said item on a diesel engine has no function for normal driving, all it does is create vacuum in the inlet manifold under certain conditions to draw through EGR gases and to ensure the engine stops in an orderly fashion when you turn off the ignition. I am going to bet 2 things: Your vehicle has had the emissions fix That the engine sometimes shakes a little on switch off I would also guess that your fuel economy and the response of the engine is not what it could be. Have a look at the thread I created in the Yeti section for an overview of the results from removing and cleaning the throttle valve, there are many others with detailed instructions.

Try looking up the fault codes on the VCDS site - www.ross-tech.com.

I'd recommend starting in the middle and only partially pushing the seal home until you have all of it part attached; then seat it properly. This might be an abundance of caution but pliable seals do creep and you don't want to end up with either a gap or a bit left wagging in the breeze ...

Hi first of all you need to get VAS adapter a got from here vas 5054 aviliable in UK, then you need to instal ODIS enginering i got from odis eng for win10 then you need to check what is the last availiable SW for your components here then need to find these SW here or here, after that you need just run ODIS engine chose Flash and choise right project and uptdate required SW or just visit oficial dealer

I'm very much a "back to dealership while the car is in warranty" kind of person. I know EU rule stated a number of years ago that so long as a car is maintained to the same level as a dealership they cannot invalidate warranty - but for the relatively low additional cost, it just seemed easier to go back to them. Absolutely no arguments in the case of warranty work required. 15th November and it's 3yrs old, so no more warranty (although I am debating if I'm going to extended it another year). Once that warranty is all over then I will move to other options. It just amazes me that I decided that pragmatic approach last year was to pay for another service - I couldn't get a guarantee that when it was serviced just prior to my collection they had used all of the "long life" materials. I could have said "sod it" last year, assume they just forgot to reset things correctly and carried on driving until I reached the 2yr/18,000 area and then got it serviced. In the end I paid for a service I likely didn't need under the instruction we could start again and it would be variable going forward. I shall dig out my invoice for last year and also ask them to show me list of parts used - as long as they can confirm long-life oil was used etc, then I'm happy for them to reset whatever things need resetting and I'll see them in a year. If they cannot prove that, then I'll be asking them to service it again foc and then resetting it to variable as I did a year ago - think that is the least they can do.

Loads of threads already here to cover most eventualities or interests re EV's. Oddly still no 30k to 40k one... http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/465633-ev-your-choice-£40k-to-£90k/page/3 These at the crazy £32,000 plus even after the £3,000 grant are getting flogged for asking prices of £25,000 now. You are sitting on the batteries as they are under the seat and you are still sitting low in the front. Fuel flap is not locked and people open it when parked, maybe to see if it is an electric car.

Totally unrelated to the above, but re. your Cyprus Holiday, if you don't rent a car but want to wander around Paphos, there's a decent bus service passing your hotel. Google for "Pafos Buses" for times, etc. I'd recommend the 611 from your hotel, connecting at the Harbour Bus Station for the 615 to Coral Bay. It's a nice seaside ride & decent restaurant in the Hotel at the terminus. The Sunday Carvery is worth sampling.... The bus timetables & routes are all on the website, & an all-day ticket is only 5 Euros. PS, enjoy your new diesel.....

Hi, NO IT does not work for new camera 2q0 980 653, also coding is difference... Still no solutioon... For High Beam and VZE it is probably necessary SWAP Activation for that functions....

I was in your position back at the end of May, however the warranty extension now clearly states "Excludes Modified Vehicles" so that was a no - no for me as a result, I haven't extended my warranty and just went for a years Skoda Assist. I didn't renew the online subscription either, although I found some aspects useful like sending Sat Nav destinations to the car, I didn't find the show status to be accurate, it would often show the car as unlocked when in fact it was. Plus the cost for both is now over £70 a year - I didn't think that it was good value.

Have you looked at the coding options for the body control module to see if the central locking could be activated? Maybe its a BCM for lower spec cars and a CCM for higher spec ones containing all the features of the BCM plus the ACL etc? A case of removing the BCM and replacing with a CCM and recoding?

@shyVRS245 My FWD 2.0TDI SCR DSG 2016 SEAT Alhambra which was i thought the last of the great VW Group cheaters could easily do 630 miles with a 63 litre tank and using 'Coasting function' do the same journeys and get 730 miles plus. EDIT, that was with passengers and luggage. I am looking forward to what you get with your new car.

I rang it just now and navigated through their automated system, so it's either genuine or someone has very detailed access to their inner technology ...

My wife has the same effect on me...........

I get notification on the centre console on the fuel consumption screen (not the 'Average'). tom

The Eco symbol illuminates on the dash when ACT in operation.

You could use something like, but not limited to, Aquasteel. give the bottle a good shake, and apply to the stone chip using a toothpick. Allow 24hrs and apply a touch up to the area using a fresh tooth pick. Let the paint harden and sink in and apply another coat using the same method.

Im in this exact position, all be it a different manufacturer. As an example my mirror heater failed so it needed a new glass, it was covered under the warranty and was £230. I can extend mine and are considering it as its a very comprehensive warranty, but not cheap. As for breakdown I got it as and addition to my insurance for me and the missus, any car as long as less than 15 years old, same cover as you for £138

Am I missing something here? If your car mists up, put on the Air Con and it will clear. Damp car - put on the Air Con and it dries out (due to Air Con dehumidifying feature). So most people drive around with Air Con on Auto, so misting up is not a problem. I don't see misting up as an EV vs ICE issue, both types do it and the solution for both is the same - run the Air Con.

The problem with some PHEV is that it burns dino juice for heating even if you have the range to do your thing plus ample heating. It doesn't have the hardware to drive on pure electric mode in all weathers. ICE is not as efficient as a proper heater neither it is as efficient at moving the car, it's a very compromised engineering to fit into a car. The root of the problem is that petrol/diesel are not a ready-to-use form of energy. Doing energy conversion in massive heating complex or power plants give the best efficiency. Whenever you scale things down you have to make compromises. What my wife does is turn on pre-conditioning when she's getting ready. When she goes out to the car, it's nice and toasty. Then toggle the demist if required. As EV's iterate through revisions, I'm sure we'll see more and more efficient AC+heating units that will allow automatic demisting. I was listening to Robert's latest news episode last night and I agree. Hybrids were relevant up to ~2017. Now we should be looking at pure electric for vast majority of cars. I think car industry is 3-5 years behind what is needed, UK charger network is 2-4 years behind.

I’m risking it and going without any post 3 year warranty. Like you say, nothing of major note has really been highlighted on here that gives me cause for concern. I know the car and treat it with mechanical sympathy and therefore can’t see it needing hundreds of pounds worth of work needing done in the next 2 years (excluding consumables). I do put money aside each month however. Just in case (touches wood).

I have a 22mm superpro arb fitted. Transformed the turn in.

broken and shorted wires in the drivers door gaiter , or bcm issue but my money is on the first

I used one on 3 of my cars now and they work well. You're best to remove the pollen filter too.

Got to agree autohold is a great feature, mine has been turned on since day one. Once you master feathering the brake pedal you soon creep along without the autohold coming on.

Like I said @EnterName 😉 All proper useful info though, I've learned a lot reading through all this.

Yeah, used one before in my last car as there was a smell coming from the air con. Engine running, windows closed, set air con to re-circulate the air inside cabin, pop open the can and put it on footwell, get out, close the door and wait Seemed to work that time, not sure if you are talking about Corona Virus though and how effective it would be for that.

CL250 looking like it was inspired by the SS50 for those old enough ...

Ok sussed it well done Bobspark you were right two wires in the rubber boot were faulty. One was broken and the other had become unsheathed,remedy was fairly easy unclip the boot top end by squeezing (like normal plug) and a gentle aid with screwdriver and i was left with the boot being detached, then a little trick i learnt (save tearing the boot open) peel away the white plastic clip (its like a square) from the boot, it then enables you to turn back the concertina type boot back on itself to enable you to get near the wires. Here comes the fiddly bit because of the Tailgate piston being in the way i couldn't crimp on new connecting leads, so i decided to bare the faulty wires back and solder in place two new "joining" wires. Slide a rubber sleeve over them to protect them, unroll the boot, place the boot over the white plastic retaining ring, push back in place. Hey presto fixed yippeee.

I got distracted over the weekend just gone, ended up doing a full exterior and interior detail on this.. It's my dads Fabia 1.9 TDi 100PD Ambiente which he's had from new and only done 40k. He's approaching 80 so has reduced enthusiasm for scrabbling about polishing cars so I took pity on it and gave the old girl some love. It's a lovely old thing, drives perfectly and so smooth. Anyway, I have now had all the wheels back from Project Powder Coating in Brierley Hill and they are utterly flawless, glossy and smooth. And Yellow. Fitted back up with the new tyres, and back on the car. The cars still up on stands as it's easier to work on while we get it running. Speaking of running.... The running in map is now loaded up, just need to change a bit of fuel hose i'm not happy with and replace a suspect crank sensor with new genuine one and we should be good to fire..

Topic was started for VZE activation on new Skoda Superb Facelift.... Not for circus for all adaptions....

Couple of little updates, first of all had its MOT and another pass no advisories and some tlc for german invasion Pre registered for german invasion and was talking to bobby who has the darkside 1.6 tdi golf about going to it but as he lives in derby it is abit of a trek but then a few days before hand he told me he was going. People have been talking about me and bobby racing for nearly 3 years and even though we have met up a few times before its never been at the track. Race 1 bobby kept his road tyres on Race 2 bobby swapped over to his slicks Race 3 with data from vcds logs showing rpm boost and egt still struggling with wheel spin through 2nd so when racing a friend with a stage 1 dsg golf GTD i thought id try a little lift in 2nd so it stops spinning then back on the throttle again, think i lifted too much as it was my slowest time and trap speed of the day. When i viewed a couple of the pics from last time i thought the car was sitting too much on the 1st-2nd gear change and that was then lifting the front causing it to spin so thought id put the camera facing the back for the next run so i could see what it did. this one turned out to be my last and fastest run of the day, car ran 14.040 @108mph so exactly the same time as last time and i had a speed on one run of 110mph which are low 13 second speeds but wheel spin is killing it. Did notice the meth tank did have a small drip leak coming from the connector which ill need to sort out and find where its coming from exactly Really do love this car and still can't believe how far its came in 4 years as it will be 4 years next month since i've owned it