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This is because you are not used to having a car with this feature. I know it frightens me when I hear that clicking noise in my Hyundai

As others have said it should be in the measuring blocks section of VCDS for the CANgateway module or the engine or central electronics modules...I haven't looked there myself...(busy with other things) The stop start & regen systems uses masses of data from numerous sources...here is the VW self study guide on it that I have:- 00028122020-Nr__426__Start_Stop_System_2009.pdf

Hi, So if you want to activate all availiable function for your MIB there are few ways ask OD, ask some one or use pathes as i know there are 2 pathes aviliable: 1 Fec Patch or 2 EL Patch In my opinion El patch much easy for user because no need to eddit Feccontainer, and prepatch part of ifs-root aviliable on the link above. To activate all availiable functions you need to get d-link dub e-100 there are some revision of this lan adaptor see picture( more detailed information you can find in word document above) Let's start: make a backup of your original files 1) put a FAT32 SD card in slot1 2) Run Putty 3) use loggin and password from word document for in my case sw was 1440 so login: root and pass: wsa8ytCc (password will not apear just press enter) 4) send follow comand (to paste copied text in putty press right mouse bottom): ls mount -uw net/mmx/fs/sda0/ on -f rcc /usr/apps/modifyE2P r 0 10000 > /net/mmx/fs/sda0/eeprom.txt cp -r /net/rcc/mnt/efs-persist/FEC/FecContainer.fec /net/mmx/fs/sda0/FecContainer.fec cp -r /net/rcc/mnt/efs-persist/SWDL/Variant.txt /net/mmx/fs/sda0/Variant.txt cat /net/rcc/dev/fs0 > /net/mmx/fs/sda0/rcc_fs0 cat /net/mmx/dev/fs0 > /net/mmx/fs/sda0/mmx_fs0 5) Copy all these files to your PC (now it is your Back up in case of.....) 6) Copy from PC to SD card next files 1 and 2 these 2 files ExceptionList.txt and MIB2.5: ifs-root-part2_MHI2_ER_SKG13_P4526 MU1440_EL_patch.rar if your train is different you must use another one see here 7) Put SD card with 2 files back to your MIB2 slot1 8) Send follow commands: mount -uw /net/mmx/fs/sda0/ mount -uw /net/rcc/mnt/efs-persist on -f rcc cp -r /net/mmx/fs/sda0/ExceptionList.txt /net/rcc/mnt/efs-persist/FEC/ExceptionList.txt on -f rcc flashunlock on -f rcc fla**** -v -a 0x00BA0000 -d -f /net/mmx/fs/sda0/ifs-root-part2.ifs (this name must match with name of the file on SD card if you will use original file it must be ifs-root-part2_MHI2_ER_SKG13_P4526 MU1440_EL_patch.ifs) on -f rcc flashlock mount -ur /net/rcc/mnt/efs-persist on -f rcc /usr/apps/mib2_ioc_flash reboot 9) Hope you did everything right and you cans see all FECs now valid in your unit, you just need to activate them in 5F carplay-activate AA-activate and so on Enjoy you get all function availiable for lifetime period.

I thought you once may have been called Pat! Am hoping the half blindness may be half resolved with another operation tomorrow.

A few things I don't like The indicator noise. The automatic windows wipers are hyper senstive they won't behave themselves. TBH that's my experience of most auto wipers. I'd rather have an intermittent I could control manually. The boot opening and closing is a bit sensitive. It like to stop. I've a feeling I'm not doing something quite right with it. The deployable tow bar button is nicely located so you can hit it putting a pram in or out of the boot. Power sockets in the boot are under a cover, why not this? The ICE and connectivity is horribly complex. I've set up at least three seperate accounts for apps, nav and other things but still can't see how to get a map update. It's got Android CarPlay which is good, but figuring out how to switch to it is basically pot luck. Everything else is great. I love how quiet it is on the motorway The mpg is really quite reasonable (~35mpg) but I'm finding I drive much more slowly now. The 335d made you drive faster. The V6 noise is nice Love the space Surprisingly now I'm driving a car I used to always accuse its drivers of tailgating me I'm now getting tailgated a lot and cut up. People seemed more wary of the BMW, but not this, it's the size of a house but it seems to bring out the nutters.

Forget the euros pricing, we confirmed UK launch prices a few pages back in this thread and it's approx £32k (list!) for the 245 DSG estate as in this video. Which inflation adjusted is barely any more than the list of the 245 MK3 facelift in 2018, but with a lot more standard spec.

I would concur with the 16" being more comfortable. I came from a Fabia with 15" to a 1.4 TSI SEL with 17" and couldn't put up with the ride. Fitted 16" steels with all seasons tyres, much better. Anybody want some 17" alloys?

Saw this decent walk around video earlier, looks fantastic in Grey Estate form too.

Pretty sure the rcd330 is for the previous generation of car so won't work in a MK3.

Sport menu is activated

Time to change front brake disks and brake pads. I always had thoughts that my 340mm kit from 280hp Superb is a bit on heavy side. 340mm ATE vented disk Caliper with pads And I decided to assemble kit with better braking characteristics and lighter. So , I took Brembo calipers from Renault Megane 3 RS 275hp Brackets to fit 354mm disk My favourite brake pads + few grams for pins and springs. Brake disk temporary took EBC simple vented , as two peace cost to much for test. This EBC rotor weight 11.800kg Plan is to migrate to two peace rotor later on. ECB tuning 345x30 two peace rotor weight 8.500kg. Ideally some forged wheels later on as well. But will need to rob a bank first Brembo DOT5.1 purchased as well. This calipers better to run on 5.1. In theory everything have to be bolt on , but this is what I think might not be the case, have a filing that bolts a bit to long, but when I install my new brakes , will put here step by step guide for ANY MQB car

Yes survey. I missed saying that. I did use the caliper wind-in tool.

The rear discs need the wind back (has to be rotated whilst going back in), this is to reverse the self adjuster ratchet on the handbrake The front pistons can usually be levered back with big screwdriver

Wiring between body and doors seems a common problem area on the mk2s, but not a particularly serious one. Keep your oil and filters fresh and all should be well.

Probably also because the assessment of state of charge is approximate rather than exact, and if it were set to 100% it could result in overcharge/damage, and waste of energy. Edit: Possibly also because when put in for emissions test cycle analysis during EU type testing the cars are allowed to start the tests with battery fully charged (I seem to remember). This would result in the possibility that during test cycle the battery management could operate its normal software whilst also never or barely having to load the alternator, as it could decline to 80% charge before any charging was invoked... Jus' wondrin'...

As an example, here’s an 8 hour data logged session from a 2014 2.0TDi VW Caddy with a 096 AGM. It shows fluctuating voltage based on current demands from the vehicle. The ‘A’s in the graph are engine starts where current draw is at its maximum. Depending on the system current requirements, the voltage is changed to allow charging, maintaining or battery only power supply. There is no S/S feature on this vehicle but the energy management principle is the same. Neg current shows when drawing off the battery and voltage is low, Pos charging current when the alternator is operational and voltage is high. There is a significant current draw midpoint from an external device spliced into the harness that didn’t switch off with the ignition. The charge profile immediately called for high current next engine start to recover the battery charge state and tapers off back to normal once the battery is good. its constantly monitored and adjusted.

I get roughly between 45mpgs and upto 60mpgs on a long run in my 184 VRS DSG Diesel. Road tax is cheap too. I know some owners get 40mpg plus in their petrols. I would go for a drive in a diesel VRS and see which you prefer.

Yeah I think this has been set since the boot doesn't open super high. I think the boot has only ever acted oddly when I've opened it using the keys, which makes me think I'm not quite doing what I'm supposed to. I saw those buttons they're next to the tow bar button that gets clobbered by the pram. I've not tried them yet, well not knowingly anyway. Best option I've seen so far... https://accessories.landrover.com/us/en/range-rover/interior/function-technology/vplgs0441pvj-tailgate-event-seating-in-ebony-leather/ For only $3400. I'm sure the UK option is the same with a £. I think I'll just treat myself to some rubber mats from ebay I need to sort my ins tonight, I've been running on the free 7 day drive away ins so I could wait for the V5 to come through and I can transfer my plate and do the ins on that at the same time. Quotes for the RR are surprisingly low, lower than BMW despite it being a lot more valuable.

Looks like you will have to be sad!

Thats a good idea if you are in a small garage too I once bumped my Octy tailgate in an underground carpark as it had a super low roof beam just above my car. I imagine a goliath like the RR could be a double problem

If you mean the boot partially opens and then stops have it checked as the motors can give bother and limit out during use. Although some models have variable boot opening incase your only 2 foot six and can’t reach it when fully open, so could be that if it’s doing it all the time.

I fitted LED puddle lights on my Oct 2 & Oct 3. I brought complete replacement LED units from Superskoda. Not cheap but very effective Mirror puddle lights

I did this for a while, but it's not ideal. It's expensive to keep two cars on the road if you're only using one occationally. Might be cheaper to hire a car to do those occasional tasks then to keep a second. I had a whole thread on whether to get a 3rd car just for offroading but it didn't stack up and I took a long path to swap to a car that can do everything I need.

Wiring diagram suggests a microswitch associated with the Rear lid central locking motor. Shown as normally open (tailgate closed, I guess), grounding the connected wire when contact closed (tailgate open?). Wire is white emerging from the motor module, turning to brown/blue at pin 3 of a 5-way connector on left side of luggage compartment. Find that connector, measure what's going on, add extra manual switch over-ride, I guess?

We've got Lane assist in her 2019 Golf, but it can be permanently switched off in the Menu settings on the infotainment screen, that was my first thing to do on the journey home from the dealers ! Shame that VAG have seemingly gone away from that. It's going to be those Europeans to blame..... .

May be you can try ideal-reifen.com. They propose 2nd hand OEM rims from most german car brands. You can chose rims either "as they are" or "fully repainted". I've chosen the 2nd solution, when I bought a set of alloy rims to have a winter pack for my wife's Audi Q3. Very interesting solution at an affordable price.

Nothing in particular to be honest, I suppose when I was quoted 3 hours labour for fitting from a specialist I suppose I’d wished I’d gone down that route now.

All check your PMs

Love the colour coding Ross, Will look very much at home in the Cayenne bay.

few pictures: -> https://www.drive2.ru/l/491122983021052184/

I'd love to have both the time and the ability to understand what you wrote to activate the sport menu, anyway thanks for sharing!

@croquemonsieur ECO does not mean Budget it means the 'Green' that Pirelli choose to use. Maybe believe reviews and tests less especially ones from Germany. That amount of times that Pirelli and Continental get good reviews and when you drive a car with the ones rated high you think WTF.

Unfortunately as cars adopt more and more tech this is what we will need to do going forward. Some of the issues are not really the car's fault but technophobes who don't understand modern tech. I have an elderly neighbour who can never work anyting and even the car radio gets her. However, as I said in another posting, If manufatureres are going to make cars with more tech then they need to be easy and intuative to operate. Some of the things seem to be just plain complicated.

These were 40 x 25 sawn battens, had I known the length I would have taken the trailer with its front support. What I really need is a fold down windscreen. It was either a BJ40 or a Yeti, the Yeti wins hands down for most of my journeys but cant do everything.

They’re pre-facelift LED clusters. The only bits that are LED are side lights and brake lights though. Everything else is filament bulb.

& low rolling resistance actually means lower friction / grip. That is what ECO tyres do, reduce grip.

Who's your dady now💪💪💪💪

Water cooling system FINALLY DONE. We used core from Mercedes S55 WCAC. We thsn 3D laser scaned OEM SMIC,and made custom endtanks and brackets to be Like OEM plug and play installation-made by @ojomotorsport Company https://var.hr in Sesvete Croatia made custom water cooler using core from https://www.cog.it/ according to model I made. We used best in the market water brushless magnetic driven pump Craig Davies EBP25 New revised,stronger and smaller model 27l/min (EBP25 older model for sale-slightly longer and 25l/min), mounted on custom SS bracket, custom fill tank I designed and silicone hoses from Polish company Thermotec. Sleek design and installation-OEM like and bumper went back flawless. Idea is to put water termo sensor after water cooler to control efficiency of cooling. Now going to https://www.rsrmotorsport.com/ for dyno measurement and PBC BOOST CONTROLER installation.

The pile of parts is getting less and less, engine is getting bigger and bigger.

I've had the car for just over a month now so I suppose an update on progress is due. With it's first track day now just a week away, the key focus has been getting it all together mechanically and making sure everything is safe and working. One of the first missions was to get my set of four point harnesses in which wasn't too hard, I just needed to get a couple of longer eye bolts for the rear as two of the mounting points turned out to be slightly recessed. An unexpected change however was swapping the bucket seats it came with for my Cobra buckets from my old MG. Main reason for the change was the woman prefers the Cobras and if it means she'll have a go at driving it on track, then fine. To be fair, the Cobras are the better seats so she was right. Don't tell her that though. It was a quick job though as the mounting points of the two seats were different and upon closer inspection, I wasn't overly happy with how the existing seats had been mounted so it turned int a full day of re-fabricating and welding good solid mounting points. As it won't just be me driving the car, I needed to keep the seats mounted on sliders so they can still be adjusted. A lot of work but worth it as I'm now happy that the seats are properly mounted and won't cause me any issues. With new cars comes many shopping opportunities so I've been on a bit of a buying spree recently. Lots of service items, and a few upgrades such as Badger 5 oversize TIP, big front mounted intercooler, stainless exhaust system, baffled sump, bits of pipe for a catch can, stage 2 ECU, Haldex service kit and one of those Haldex inserts that Softscoop suggested, phenolic gasket for the inlet manifold, billet injector cups, RamAir induction kit and probably more little bits that I can't remember now. It's been a steady process of most evenings and weekends being spent on working through everything to get it all serviced and get the upgraded parts on. One of the first things I did was bling up the engine up the engine bay a bit by painting my cam cover, inlet manifold and charge pipe. Those who know me on facebook will be aware that I have a habit of painting such items to make a few pennies so it was only right I did a set for myself. Surface prep is key so a go in the dishwasher for a final degreasing is a must. All came out looking pretty nice though as the VHT matt red paint I use is very user friendly. I put the inlet back on along with a phenolic gasket to help reduce the amount of heat transferred from the head and I also fitted a new set of billet injector cups. A crucial job was the cam belt and water pump I've done a cam belt on a 1.8t before so this time didn't take too long. Hardest part is getting the engine mounting bracket out from the space that doesn't really exist It's also had all fluids changed, new oil pick up pipe and I've fitted a baffled sump as I've got experience of taking a 1.8T on track without one and it didn't end well. Forge want £260 for a ready made item, which whilst it is a good quality item, I managed to find just as good an option at a much more reasonable £50. CB Auto do a baffle kit and as my brother works for an engineering company, he was able to tig weld it into a sump pan for me. Well worth the piece of mind that the engine isn't going to be starved of oil during those long sweeping bends on race circuits. The car came with a 3 inch decat downpipe already installed but it still had the standard cat back system which has quite a restrictive looking flattened part where it goes under the rear axle. I kept my eye out for a stainless system at a decent price and luckily found one on Ebay for £100 and as a bonus it was located about 15 minutes from where I was working at the time. Most exhausts available were all centre or back box deletes which didn't really interest me as I didn't want anything loud that would potentially cause me issues with noise tests at circuits. The one I found is ideal as it really isn't a lot louder than standard but is much more free flowing. It was also a direct fit so bolted straight on with no hassle. The front mounted intercooler was also another Ebay find and a really easy fit as, along with the pipework, it's designed specifically for the car so mounted straight on and the bumper fits back over without needing to hack anything off it. With the bumper back on, I figured a little more airflow couldn't hurt so I got the hole saw out and made some holes across the front where the number plate used to live. Next important job, which I didn't get any pictures of, was serviceing the rear Haldex system. A fiddly job as access is tight and the special spanner I purchased to change the filter was an absolute must. The oil is easy enough to change, just a case of suirting it in through the hole and put the plug back in quickly. I fitted the insert I mentioned earlier and now it's in, it's staying in as it's tricky to get to. It's very very small so I really hope it was worth the £76 it cost One of the jobs that needed doing, so that it can get an MOT in a couple of weeks time, was to replace the front cv boots as they were both split. What should have been an easy job, I've done plenty in the past on various vehicle, ultimately turned into a massive pain in the winkle as the cv joints just would not come off for love nor money. Had to resort to the angle grinder. It didn't really help though as the new cv joints I had then wouldn't fit the shafts. Upon closer inspection, the shafts were infact some non genuine replacements. Disappointing but easily resolved by sourcing a pair of genuine, good condition used shafts. Getting close to being ready to use now so today I just did a quick little task of relocating the front number plate. Obviously I can't use a normal one now as it'll block off the holes I made for the intercooler, so I've gone for a square plate tucked off to the left hand side. I don't want any issues with the law so I've had one made with the legal font and size. Tomorrow's job is fit my uprated fuel pump and I've got a boost gauge to mount somewhere aswell. Then, it'll be a case of put it on the trailer next weekend and hope it all holds together when I drive it for the first time at Donnington Park. As long as it doesn't blow up, I can then get it MOT'd whilst I have a week off work and then maybe start looking at tidying up the cosmetic issues.

I'm not at all certain Skoda Assistance operate in the OP's location of Brunei Darussalam.

Trouble is with this, you're unlikely to get many contributions from people saying e.g. "I was busy on my mobile whatsapping a hilarious youtube link to my mate Dave when the XYZ safety system cut in and definitely prevented me crashing head-on with a car coming the other way. You should have seen the other driver's face, he looked terrified LOL" … "Great safety systems in these cars, innit". And yet those 'saves' might outnumber the false triggers by 100-1 for all we know.

Nice trip upto Scotland last week! 1200miles and never skipped a beat! Managed to get nearly 500 miles to a tank which i'm well happy with! Normally only managed 380-400 to a tank! Had 20mm spacers fitted 2 days before we left for Scotland as well and love how it sits now! Didn't like how they made it look at first but i've got use to it now

Didn't quite catch that Shy........how many mpg are you getting......do keep telling us......I have a tendency to forget after an hour or two, I wonder why?

Some pics of the hubs. Fitted new bearings last night.

Removed the large spigot from the rear hubs. This it too large to allow 15mm spacers to fit flush, not that ill need spacers with the wider beam but before i fit might as well.

Designed some camber plates to fit behind the hub on the rear beam. Made two sets, one at 1.4* to make 2* and one at 2.4* to make 3*. Unsure what i want so will stick the 1.4* in and gonfrom there see how it feels

Used Problem Solving Bushes (PSB) as ive fitted them all round on my T5 and theyve been great.

Sourced a wider track rear beam, stripped it, fitted poly bushes and painted it.