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The alarm siren has a non-replaceable battery to ensure it can sound if the main battery has been disconnected. At least on a MK2, it has a 'service life' of 6 years (if I remember correctly) but this doesn't mean they fail at immediately at 6 years - mine lasted 9 years. Most people won't notice the battery is flat as I don't think there are any symptoms but it should throw an error code on a scan. Maybe the MQB sirens last longer but it's still just a matter of time before they are likely to fail

hi all i just got my 2020 octavia coded with obd11, setting lane assist to "last setting" driver assistance (module A5) > long coding > Configuration for lane departure warning KI15 > change to "last setting" this worked only with hood open still searching for start stop disable option (as this is next annoying thing on my list) please share if anyone has any codes

First reaction? I hate slideshow style websites....... Second reaction? Where's e-Niro? It's more practical than Kona but with similar range and very tiny price increase, making it a better car. I'd personally swap places for 11th Zoe and 3rd Honda E, due to Zoe's popularity. I'd also thought ID3 would be higher on the list, perhaps swap it with Polestar 2. Taycan, Honda E, Polestar 2. 3 out of the top 4 are more like expensive toys (inefficient or short range, more expensive than ICE cars due to onboard toys) rather than practical runabouts. Cynic in me thinks there is a narrative from Top Gear......

After a bit of hoop jumping (and help from here) the virtual cockpit retrofit is done and all working. RS theme on the VC and Android Auto Performance Monitor ties together nicely

Pleased to be able to help and thank you for allowing us to sponsor your forum. If anyone has any questions or requires advice/application confirmation for our products, please let Me know. We are always open to receiving feedback so fire away.....

For what it's worth, I reckon you're on a hiding to nothing trying to get anything done under warranty. I don't think there's much argument that diamond cut alloys like these are more susceptible to the ravages of winter and kerbing damage than plainer ones, but having them is a choice you make when you buy the car - most peeps choose the car they do because they like the way it looks, and its wheels are very much a part of that. If you pick a car with them you have to take the rough with the smooth and do what you can to mitigate the damage that just getting in the car and driving it is likely to cause. There's only so much mollycoddling you can do if you want to use the car for its primary purpose and not have it spend all its time on your drive under a hand-crocheted Angora blanket, only lifting it off gingerly to wax and polish every other warm and windless day. I don't see how you could argue that the wheels you chose are unfit for purpose - alloys like this have been around for quite a while now, and people have been complaining about their vulnerability for just as long, so maybe there's a case to be made for saying that forewarned is forearmed. As it happens, our Karoq has the same wheels. I think they're dead smart, and they were certainly a major factor in me choosing a Sportline in the first place. And I fully expect to be doing what the OP did; washing the car and cussing out loud when cleaning off the muck reveals a whole new rash of chips, but it is what it is. It comes with the territory. What I will do (when we finally get the car back from its three-month holiday in the dealership's back yard thanks to the massive delays in the factory supply of replacement parts) is put a set of front mud flaps on it. That the damage to the OP's alloys manifests itself only on the leading edges of the rear wheel spokes is pretty incontrovertible evidence that the damage is being caused by stones flicked up from the front wheels, and my (admittedly rudimentary) reasoning says that a pair of mud flaps will reduce the amount of crap thrown directly into the path of the rear wheels. Mud flaps aren't the most beautiful things in the world but they aren't that horrible, so it's a concession to practicality I'm happy to make. I did the same thing to the Audi I had before after noticing stone damage on the spokes of its rear wheels (none on the fronts), and it certainly seemed to have helped. .

oooohhh - be SUPER SUPER careful - and especially if you have ODBEleven (because it has been known to mess things up). Sorry to say that if you are going to start serious modding, then you really need a minimum of a VCDS system from Ross-tech.com With VCDS you can perform a full status backup of all of the settings for each module (or the whole car). You then have a template to go back to if you mess things up (and its too easy). That's the thing about the labels for software functions in VW Group cars - they are half in German, half in English. The FL cars also got a whole load of GEN2 characteristics and labels (some which replaced GEN1 and some that brought in new functionality). You GEN2 functions will be different to any other vehicle and I know that @langers2k would be super-keen to hear from you when you have a scan as he seems to be the arbitor of knowledge of difference between the various different car years and their functions and what you can do to each car. The labels describe functions that are technical, so even a German->English translation tool canny always help. You Scout is the last of the MK3's - a superbe car....keep it and cherish it, because the MK4's are protected and cannot be modified in the same manner as the MK3's.

Oh hang on its just updated to RS theme. I changed to 280kmph set the obdeleven app to classic theme then to RS and it worked!

Even though this is a big debate, i think most would agree that modern engines are in much less need of the owner's ultimate attention for running in, and the impact of that is also nowhere near as great as in engines of the past. Still, the principle is to introduce the engine to higher revving gradually during this 1500km period. That does not mean one should baby the car as if there's an egg below the throttle pedal but rather, take your time to warm up the car and gradually rev it higher and higher as you cover most mileage up to the 1500km mark. Very roughly, up to 4500rpm for the first 500km, going higher up to 5500rpm till the 1000km and then even 6500 once closer to 1500km. The thinking is that the engine goes through the full range of the rpm during this period before the moving parts settle and so is able to develop its full potential. That implies proper warm-up of-course, oil up to 90deg, and gradual operation.

So it's tree's time... Did a quick check and I'd missed a few from a custom trees purchase in the shop. So those 100 have been added to this months, thank you @MikeTheThinker We also had a new sponsor join us this month, @EBCBrakesUK so that bumps the tree count up too This month we'll be doing our baseline 2tonnes CO2 So this months tally is a pretty good 325 trees. Thank you to all those who have joined and supported the community this month, these are your trees >> https://ecologi.com/briskoda?tree=60218576ddce91001d9c9bed.

Didn't see a topic on this EV that's expected to launch in perhaps a month or two so I thought I'd start one. There's been some sightings of it testing over in Germany but they've always had more padding camouflaging it's true shape than Dolly Parton. I've found a video with what purports to be the new car in it, but with just the cammo stickers rather than all the black nylon and random bulges on the euro test cars. It's in a Korean video on the new Hyundai charging stations they are opening, and there's a company rep demonstrating the new station to a Korean you tube "influencer". And by chance there's a car "by chance" in the background which he also has a look round. All part of the big companies Marketing and PR teaser campaigns prior to launch of course, but interesting nonetheless. The look at the charger is also interesting as it showcases one solution to lugging round the heavier power cables needed by higher power 350Kw chargers. Car makes proper appearance at around 4:45

On mine, a hatchback, I have fitted genuine Skoda bars that locate in holes in the roof return edge inside the door frame. If you carefully pull down the door seal you should see these holes. If you search LAS 710 001. Typical picture here:- Genuine Skoda VW Locking Roof Carrier LAS 710 001B | eBay

Try mytyres. You can get wheel and tyres package. Used them previously - they ship from Germany or used to.

All good if they really have. I bet they tested in really cold places that had dry air. That is not what a driver that was frozen out told me, so he accepted water from my flask to get his passenger door open and he climbed across. If there had been nobody about he was going to try peeing on the area,

The wipers are not ideal as they push snow below their park area and then stop working until you stop and clear underneath to let them do full sweeps. Otherwise it keeps on moving while AWD's on the wrong tyres are sip sliding around and getting pushed, some even on flat ground.

Over the last several months I have gratefully used the knowledge of people on this forum to assist me in the buying process here in Cyprus. Finally ordered my car in 11/2020 and got delivery last week on 02/02/2021. Considering that we are in Cyprus and an initial timeframe of 3 months minimum was given to us, this time of having the keys in our hand in around 10 weeks (with COVID prevailing still) is fantastic. One thing that I will appreciate specifically is the assistance that was provided to us by our sales manager in Skoda. Car dealerships in Cyprus are known monsters to care as little as possible about prospective buyers/customers. Mainly because the whole industry is a nexus (one family owns several brands and there is zero competition i.e. no one else on the island will own a dealership of the same brand). On to my experience: MySKoda app: Before I went to collect the car I had setup the dreaded MySkoda app on my S9+. The reviews in Android play store and on every group/forum pointed towards one and only one supposed fact - The app is useless, does not work most times and do not waste your time. But considering that I had nothing to lose I decided to give it a go. To my surprise the installation of the app and initial setup (add a car) was pretty easy and finished in a jiffy. All I needed was the VIN for my car and voila, car added and waiting for activation for which I needed my car and two keys. Delivery day: Went quite smooth. I had a checklist which I had written up and in about an hour's time I had verified all that I wanted to. Car was in great shape and we loved the color "Business Grey". The ad on 18" TRINITY anthracite wheels gave it a super look as the grey in the wheels went well with the overall colour. For those who are interested the car has the following features: Now I still did not believe that the activation process waited by the MySkoda app will go through flawlessly. So in I went to my car, sat down with my two keys and did as the app asked me to. At some point I got a message "synchronizing profile" and you should have been that to see the face of the sales manager. He was almost sure this will not work . That is surely a vote to the confidence that Skoda employees have on their own app. Well the sync finished, app started showing my car and I could use all features immediately (except the features like lock/unlock which require specific activation by the dealer - will get this sorted next week). For those who might be interested I could even change my nickname (multiple times) and it correctly updated in the car each and every time. Initial setup: First thing I did after we completed the delivery was to connect the infotainment using Wireless Android Auto. I must say worked like a charm. Connected to bluetooth, got message on infotainment to use AA, selected it and that is it. Now when I enter the car with my phone AA is connected (did not fail a single time) and I can use all AA apps without any problems (touch wood :)). Next came setting up the home screen (there are two pages) and the favourites pull down menu. This also was pretty straightforward...This is when I faced my first bug of the software although it is pretty minor - When I press the "home' button on the infotainment unit, instead of going to the "first" page of the home screen menu, I land up at the "second" page. Until now have not found any workaround for this. Now the only part of setup which I still want to do is to setup the Canton equalizer. If anyone has ready links to this then will appreciate you sharing. Driving: As we are in the lockdown period, we have not driven much. The car has 120 odd Kms on it, mostly made up of city and bit of highway driving. The drive has been super smooth. Have not faced any lag (had read a lot about this and had even had a look at racechip just to remove the lag) on traffic lights or at round abouts during stop and go situations. Although this might as well be due to the fact that I am keeping the car at low revs (up to 2K) and I am not going to push the engine until at least 1500 Kms. When driving the sound insulation is excellent and I am sure that the acoustic front windows play a hand in this. You just do not hear anything (yes it is a bit exaggerated) from the outside world. At idle and without music playing, you can hear a bit of the engine sound though. Considering that this is our first diesel car and second car that we now bought (First being a Passt 1.4 TSI in 2009) I am very impressed (always thought that the diesel sound will enter the cabin at driving speeds). Music: We have the Canton system. Have not played with the equalizer. But as a start with its factory settings the sound quality is already very good. I like how I can select manually the "center" of the music area through the sound settings. Also the fact that I can select "surround" as an option. I believe given a bit of a tweek the sound quality will only improve. So this is it folks! Wanted to share my initial experience with the car. If I missed a detail that you would like to know more about then feel free to comment and I will chime in where I can. As I grow with it will definitely share more. Also big thank you to everyone on this forum who helped me out during the decision making buying process. I hope I can repay in kind by helping others. If anyone who is shopping around now and has some questions, feel free to ask. I will try and help out if I have the feature in my car. And to everyone who are on the fence - I would say "BUY IT". This is a value for money car in every sense, so as long as you are fine with the dimensions and have decided on 5 vs 7 seats, then I do not see any other better options out there. Safe Driving!!

Brianmo is my Brother in Law so will let him continue with this topic.

Just throwing this out there but would the car not realise in what country mode to be in (via GPS) and adjust accordingly - front/rear light etc?

I am using 6j 16" steel wheeels with Dunlopwinter sport tyres on my Karoq instead of normal 19"8j wheels. I bought them for my Yeti a few years ago from Mr. Winter tyres. He sold me them for a Yeti but actually to be correct the Yeti is supposed to use 16" 7j wheels!! They are perfect fit for Karoq as per the spec for winter tyres, but the supplier above said they were the wrong size!! Wonder what he would have sold me for the Karoq? Not sure what they cost now but the wheel rims were £50 each, and you picked a tyre to fit from budget (not recommended) to top performer. Now on third winter and hardly worn

I have ones identical to these on my wife's Karoq SE L 190 TDI. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/329584918085186/?ref=search&referral_code=undefined Well they were identical when I bought them a few years back but they're now wearing Dunlop D5 Winter Sport which, in my considerable experience of using winter tyres, are better than the Pirellis. These are much more reasonably priced, even cheaper than mine were but they're in Edinburgh. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/164810725073260/?ref=search&referral_code=undefined Having said that, ISTR that Audi dealers were charging c. £1300 for these when they were new so the first ones in Aberdeen are about half the original price, if they're still available.... More in Aberdeen, posted a day ago https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/503414674401192/?ref=search&referral_code=undefined

Well surely any facelift car will not be delivered to customers in Europe earlier than July/August 2021. So if you can wait for a new car until then, then it may be a good idea to cancel and wait. But if I were you I would go with the current car because for me there is no gain in waiting for a facelift with minor changes and that too ones which I dont really fancy.

@Simon79 You just happened to speak with a muppet there. If you were to call Victoria Garage Maud then that would be someone that knows their arse from their elbow that you would speak with. Maybe look on Ebay and see who can get wheels and tyres to you. There might be some in the BRISKODA for sales. Paisley Freight could normally deliver, but then there is a snow situation currently. John Clark Skoda Specialist Cars Dundee used to have sets of 4 Steel Wheels and winter Tyres every winter inside the front door for sale. Not seen that for a few years now though. They are much more helpful IME in Dundee than in Aberdeen.

I would like to see their choices out now being driven in Blizzard like conditions. Pop out handles, and air intakes for the cabins blocked up with solid snow or ice. As for the city cars taken for a little trip between cities and having to maybe get off a main route and find a charge place. I have not seen what the e-Honda's charge place looks like if plugged in and charging and there is heavy snow or just sleet and then freezing temps.

17” steel wheels are hard to come by. 16” wheels with 215x60 tyres is a recommended size for winter wheels for a Karoq.

It can be retrofitted as you want, with active monitoring, but it definitely doesn't do it as standard. A couple of people on the Facebook vRS groups have done it. Not sure on cost, probably depends how much of it you could do yourself.

For me for personal use at a 'reasonable' and 'realistic' cost there's only two options on that list - the Soul or Kona... The others are all stupidly priced and well out of my price range, too full of 'guff', too 'premium' or too small. However, I probably won't be buying one anytime soon unfortunately

The “ idiot light” system has worked well in my previous Yeti and current Kodiaq and informed me of a screw in the tyre causing a slow leak on both occasions.

I don't think (but am happy to be proved wrong) that any Skoda cars have the 'advanced' version as standard - maybe not even as an option either.

Sure - I'm in the UK with a 2.0TDi MY21 SEL trim and a Columbus head unit, manufactured at the end of last October.

No, you cannot apply the key yourself!!! As an example, take a look at 000054830A. It's a MIB2 Standard (Bolero/Amundsen) Smartlink activation kit which clearly states it will require ODIS. It also needs online access to update the Skoda servers to show your VIN now has Smartlink activated. This part number will not work for you as I think you have MIB2 Entry (Stream) headunit. At least in the UK, typical prices for Smartlink at a Skoda dealer are £135-170. I assume you're in Europe but I'd expect a similar price in €. You might find a independent garage with the right equipment but as the monthly subscription costs are high, most don't use ODIS.

go for the 110 sel worth the extra

Yeah, I'd agree with the above, don't start messing with things until you have: - made a backup (long coding + adaptions) - understand how to compare the current coding/adaptions to the backup - find the history of changes - are happy you're able to revert things I've never used OBDeleven so I can't give any specifics. If you can figure it out, it might be worth making a short guide? Something like 'OBDeleven first steps before you change anything' If you're new to coding (which it seems like you are), l'd very much suggest looking at some of the common tweaks and seeing which, if any, you'd like and trying those first. You'll soon release there are a great many options, some of which may seem almost identical in both German and may miss certain nuances when translated to English.

No - it has to be applied either by the dealer or in theory by yourself. Oddly enough, you don't have a MENU key, but it you did, you would go and press/hold it and go to Software FeCC - find the part code for Smartlink - then put in your key that the dealer has given you (its on a piece of paper). Then the feature is enabled. You cannot enable this function via VCDS. The other option is that you get hold of a hack MIB system....but that is a whole world of pain. Sorry - Skoda dealer time I'm afraid.

No start/stop, nothing to code.

Check the ports they connect to at both ends too, especially for the small hose; if you didn't already. Easily blocked in the narrowest parts I imagine.

https://fpsdistribution.com/

Cheapest way to change them would be to see if you can obtain a set from a scrap/salvage yard.

On the edges of the rear window there is a black ceramic print with a series of small dots. If the tint is even across them it's tinted glass, if there are small imperfections it's a film. Same logic with the skoda logo along the bottom edge of the door glass.

I have recently switched from a 2017 Fabia 110 SE L 6-speed Manual to a brand new Scala 110 SE DSG. Based on my limited mileage so far, I wouldn't be comfortable with the Scala in a less powerful engine (nor would I necessarily want something more powerful) - the 110 seems like the ideal engine choice. Happy to answer any questions you might have - you can also read some initial thoughts here.

That will be factory tinted glass then so expensive to change to clear glass.

Can’t see it from here

You will find it in the official Skoda workshop manuals on ErWin. They are listed for all models and all approved wheel sizes for those models. For Mk3.0 Octy it is D4B802B4AE1-Wheels__Tyres 116 pages of it on mine Nothing you can't find in that. You may still be able to get it from the manuals linked to in the sticky, or off a google search but for a few euro you can get the exact ones for your car with the chassis number downloaded direct from ErWin We are lucky with Skoda that all manuals are available, many are not for Audi, VW and Seat

Regular clearing of snow off the bonnet required as no melting of it happens when there is snow building up.

These things can be quite fun on a covered in snow back-yard Unfortunately we only managed a couple of shots before the action cam died (helps to start shooting with more than 10% battery usually... ) but anyway: No idea why it sounds like a modded Impreza at some point everything is stock in terms of exhaust, DV... Probably the R600 intake is to blame.

I think a lot of folk forget to treat the leather in their cars - and also forget the gators and handbrakes and gearlevers. That damage is caused by the drying of the leather and the top napping wearing away from constant use......folks.....you need to treat your leather parts of your car.....(I used Autoglym, but other products are definately available).

They are H4 on the reflector only headlights, H7 on the projector ones. The LED H7 bulbs do generally struggle to fit because of the design of the retaining clip and connector. There are aftermarket clips available that should allow you to use awkward led bulbs.

If you feel the need for extra lighting then I think an led light bar would be much better, both in looks and performance.

First comment is that they are mounted so low that using them would only be legal in fog to use at other times they need to be at least 500mm high- not what you want I'm guessing? IMHO rectangular lights would look better.

Hi Everyone, We (EBC Brakes UK) have paid to join this forum as an alternative way to interact with our customers and potential users and to alleviate any issues you may encounter. We are not here to sell products or to advertise, purely to gather product feedback and assist users with any problems or application questions. Thanks

Very useful - thanks @MarkyG82