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Kilen 25127 and Lesjofors 4095141 match OEM part number 6C0411105C Kilen 25127 on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-KILEN-Front-Coil-Spring-for-Volkswagen-Polo-DAJA-DAJB-1-8-12-14-04-18/303875514852?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3D049e8177ee554041b7c13cbd9637aa12%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D2%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D303875514852%26itm%3D303875514852%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2334524%26brand%3DKilen&_trksid=p2334524.c100667.m2042 Kilen 25127 online parts catalogue https://web.tecalliance.net/kilen/en/parts/176/25127/detail?query=25127&numberType=0&groups=188#@brc/search:Search%20by%20any%20number%2025127;mandator:kilen;query:25127;groups:188;brands:176;pf:3;page:0/detail:25127;brandId:176;articleNo:25127;mandator:kilen;query:25127;numberType:0;groups:188 Lesjofors 4095141 on autodoc https://www.autodoc.co.uk/lesjofors/15094899 Lesjofors 4095141 online parts catalogue https://web.tecalliance.net/lesjofors/en/parts/175/4095141/detail?query=4095141&numberType=0&groups=188#@brc/search:Search%20by%20any%20number%204095141;mandator:lesjofors;query:4095141;groups:188;brands:175;pf:3;page:0/detail:4095141;brandId:175;articleNo:4095141;mandator:lesjofors;query:4095141;numberType:0;groups:188

Just to conclude my tale... I was able to access the right hand connection box behind the windscreen wiper motor (as above) and used a soldering iron to melt some of the insulation off the blue wire, to confirm it was 11.5 volts there, and that also no onward connection from there to a similar spot just before the alternator connector. I soldered in a new wire between those two points. The battery warning light now working again, and there is 14.5V across the battery terminals with the engine running. Thanks again for your help Wino!

Looks like the situation may be considerably simpler for Polo, just one option listed on what seems to be the relevant page suspension; shock absorbers - Polo/Derby/Vento-IND(PO) [EUROPA 2015 year] (7zap.com) Check for a match of 4 grey splodges followed by 1 red on the undamaged spring (probably still on both, but may be easier to see on the unbroken one).

Hiya Gaz, does the car have a build data sticker in the boot area or inside service book? Deleted previous attempt as I'd looked up Golf as opposed to Polo, doh! Back in a bit.

Προτείνω επίσης να γράφετε στο Klingon, ο καθένας σίγουρα θα καταλάβει Translation below:

Here's a photo of the Creations Motorsport blanking plate, it wasn't as much as the Forge version but seems to be good quality. Don't do what I did though and drop the tiny o ring when trying to fit the plate. There was much swearing at that point but eventually I found the ring and fitted it correctly. Also, I had to pop to VW this morning for a temp sensor o ring. The one that came off yesterday must have been squashed out of shape over the last 18 years so didn't seal correctly. Coolant was weeping out from around the sensor when the car was up to temperature. A new o ring and clip seem to have sorted it out.

Same trim as this

To answer some of my own questions here, I've made some diagrams of what a facelift tail light adapter set of conversion harnesses would look like to aid myself in . These diagrams are specific to Right hand drive notchbacks/liftback/hatchbacks (i.e. not estate/kombi/avant) Thought I'd post them in case they're helpful to someone. As you can see, it's pretty much a straight pin-for-pin mapping with 3x quirks - a) now that the indicator is on both the inner and outer light clusters, some joining of these needs to happen b) now that reverse has moved to the inner cluster, a wire for this needs dragging up over the bootlid hinge and back down c) 2019 has a new wire on each side going all the way back from the indicator to the fusebox via connection 1 in the main harness, some sort of Canbus wire maybe? I'll update the thread once I've built the harness and plugged the new lights in. I'm thinking I should build 2x harnesses while I'm at it if I'm doing one, so that I have an extra set for the next person who's thinking of attempting...

I used something like this for my DRL’s. No errors https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263468706071 lighter and brighter than standard. Would like more light though.

Kilen 25127 and Lesjofors 4095141 are identical to each other as they are the same springs, made in the same factory in Sweden...just marketed under two different brand names. In the UK, Kilen are more widely available than the identical Lesjofors version...and usually cheaper. It's usually said that springs should be replaced in pairs. Garages often just replace one spring if it's under warranty. If it's the same specification of spring and the ride height is the same both sides, you won't have a problem with the car's handling. However, I always change both sides at the same time as the other side might break soon.

I've been busy deleting the SAI today. The previous owner did the N249 bypass and as a result there are some redundant hard pipes. I was going to remove them today but then realised a third pipe headed off round the rear of the engine and wondered what it was and where it went. Any ideas?

Im waiting on my e-tec Hatch. I'm not familliar with UK taxes but here in Sweden the lower Co2 gives a tax benefit way over the consumption benefit at only 0,1 liters per 100 km. However, I had a couple of good reviews from friends saying that the e-tec engine is better to drive, battery boost at higher speeds and cruising with engine in energy saving mode is by hearsay a very good experience. Hope that it's true and I will know in a couple of weeks

I believe that just connects to the metal pipes on the side of the engine. If you remove all the airbox you'll see the pipe where they usually say cut the pipes from instead of having to move the whole bracket. Should be in Bowders guide for reference.

No the +ve charger lead should be connected to the battery +ve and the -ve lead connected to the earth tag on the bulkhead adjacent to the battery -ve terminal.

Not much exciting just changed the drivers side engine mount now all three are pretty new, it was still original at 15 years old

Yes, it's a glued on hollow seal. It hardly seals the gap even when it's in place, mud can creep past towards the inner seal. If not cleaned off it can rub on the door paint. When we got the car from new, I stuck some foam strip on the metal door skin to meet up with the OEM seal - seems to be still working. I do a lot of gravel road travel, and worse, so mud is a constant battle to keep down, not only on door seals but the underside as well

Come on Shy, you can do it !!

When posting, please post in English. Thanks

Good on ya looking forward to seeing the usual photos of a full detail and upgrades 😁

To @foru2justnv - Try this: Click Right Here

Yeah, tonnes of us have.. just have a quick search on here and you'll find the relevant ones (such as 'Cree' branded ones) that don't trigger Canbus errors etc.

Mine now say rr with a tracking number which is apparently registered post. It shows it’s left cz on the 12th and is not yet in the uk ! On both CZ post and Royal Mail Tracking. I think as the bits I ordered are small they have posted them. I was looking at ordering carlinkit from Aliexpress but they are only shipping from China not their European depots with 40 plus days delivery and potentially customs charges and I am not keen on that in case there is a problem and I need to return the item. I think I will just pay Amazon £30 more as if the carlinkit is not compatible I can easily get a refund.

@CJJEthank you for the reply, I have two plans, 1- I'll change spare wheel with a thin spare wheel as soon as possible. If the place gained does not solve my "secret storage" needs, 2- I'll try to build a homemade boot floor as you guided me. Thanks...

What David said above, is exactly the same as me, including the 29th Jan date. My order said processing, then went to somthing like sorting, next day went back to processing. 😕

To keep you all up to speed on my previous comments about the MY21 update position. I said i would let you all know about any feedback i got from Customer Services after i wrote a detailed letter ( about the poor MY21 update position, both in documentation and on line) I addressed my letter to the Head of Customer Services at Head Office about six or seven weeks ago. Guess what! I have not even had an acknowledgement, let alone any attempts at answering the questions. I also had sent an e mail to the info@ address for a fairly simple question for them to answer on another issue. Guess what, no answer to that either. I find this whole situation absolutely appalling and its a disgrace to call themselves Customer Service... because it is not!!!!! Here we have a product, in my case a KaroqSE Drive 1.5TSI, which i think is a superb car and " Customer Service" which if you asked me my opinion, is the worst in the world!!! Next question is what can we all do about it? I am far from being alone in similar thoughts on this issue. In the meantime please all take care and stay safe.

Congrats. Looks great I like it :-)

@Aspman i would think leaving the Vauxhall Dealership Network is no real loss to them. For Vauxhall owners the workshop will still be there and quite likely the AC Dealerships just 15 miles away.

I managed to reverse my Morris Marina into a field. My 17 yo idiot brain and inexperience involved !! Kind farmer pulled my car out and gave me a deserved dressing down.

No is the answer to your question same answer from Seat on my MY21 Seat Arona with MIB3 Unit and I have spoken to the mastertech at the garage and same on VW Mark 8 Golf. I actually had a twitter 'row' with Global who own lots of the independant , Heart, Capital etc etc and they told me it was the Car manufacturers fault ! and it was Globals policy not to broadcast their logos.... why I don't undertstand ..... I also had a twitter exchange and looked at company called RadioDNS (google them) this details all about the Hybrid radio and standards and Audi have partnered with them ... ie the Internet Radio etc we can get in our Cars. I actually managed to create an XML file following their standards, download 6 different sizes of file for Heart Kent, Heart 80, Heart 90 and put all onto my USB C .... all to find no change ! Its annoying because if I listen to Heart on the internet radio I get a logo and can save it to the presets, if I listen to the DAB same Heart station no logo and when you try to manage logos you can't select anything. Manage Logos only seems to allow be to delete the logos from those that already have them and not to add anymore. Basically unless VAG Group decide to change the software to allow us to read the USB C for Logos then I think in all VW, Seat, Skoda platforms its all the same and all broken .... Step backwards from the MIB2 units in the pre MY21 VAG cars.

Does the central locking work when you use the key in the lock, what about if you use the buttons on the drivers door? Are you saying that only the remote locking facility doesn't work? Did it work before? We need information in written English to help diagnose the problem.

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Thanks guys for all the feedback, opinions and weigh****chers debate 😉 /fitness clinic (great achievements guys.. keep it up 👍). We've gone for a 1.5 dsg sportline inc virtual cockpit. I can highly recommend Carwow.. fab deal and very very good px price. Also got the extra discount with pcp (which will be dealt with as soon as the ink dries) and 2 services for £79.

Could it be part 3 that covers the rear wheel-arch? What is the other side like?

We had a quite astonishing sunrise a few days ago. The colour came and went in the space of a few minutes.

Hi, do not think it is. I have the charge box but does not have any boost to the signal that I can see. John

Today was spent deleting the SAI. It went well for the most part but there were a few stumbling blocks. I had to dismantle the pump to remove it as there wasn't enough room to wiggle it out in one piece. The top bolt holding the bracket on was a pain to get to as was removing the SAI combi valve - I hadn't realised there was a second 10mm bolt holding it in place at the back along with the hard pipes. Apart from that and losing about 2l of coolant it was reasonably straightforward. I ran out of daylight to take some final pics but did get one of the parts I removed.

I expect a hybrid Karoq will wait until the next fully new version, like the Mk 4 Octavia, and they'll be working on that already, together with getting the Enyaq into showrooms. This stage in the Karoq lifecycle is a bit late to warrant the investment on an existing platform. I know they've done a hybrid in the Superb, but that's a car aimed at the fleet buyer or business user where a hybrid gains tax advantages. But I could be wrong.

I guessed that. I'm just saying that the car is initially designed for LHD & therefore the fuse box & bonnet release are easy to access if it's LHD.

Sorry running doesn't agree with me, but done a lot of walking in the last year!!

We were at the end of 6 months travelling so I blame Aussie portion sizes. It’s hard being on a diet in that country when one breakie would feed me for a couple of days at least. Also had to go on a virtually zero carb diet for a serious medical condition SWMBO developed in the summer which meant a radical change to our diet. If I feel my weight isn’t shifting as it should I find a steak and salad in the evening followed by a 5km run the next morning gets it shifted. Plus no vino for 6 months, though that has fallen by the wayside a little bit but no more than one bottle a week. Haven’t been out running for 2 months due to snow and ice, it’s going to hurt!

Unfortunately I have had to do it twice, lost near enough 10st to get down to target 13.5st in 2014, then 3 serious medical life threatening occurences, each of which result in eating too much whilst recovering, and I was back to 20st in Oct 2019. Since then managed to get back down to current 14st and still losing. Just use calorie counting each day, seems to work and my wife is doing it as well and lost 2st. When you realise how many calories in something you start yo avoid it. Indeed she bougth a mousakka ready meal last week thinking it is for 2, but it is a meal for one at 950 calories!!! That will stay in the freezer for some time I think.

Yes, I think I've read that VAG are reworking the 2.0TSI engine in all their cars so it's in short supply at present. Presumably trying to reduce emissions etc again. But it's a big seller throughout the group so as long as Skoda are given a quota it should be back again. Tomm011... I bought from Barlows in Crewe back in July and got a good deal from them, I think. They happily matched a CarWow quote for a cash sale, but needed a lot of chasing to get information about the progress of my factory order. (In fact I ended up getting progress reports via DMs from Skoda UK's Twitter feed instead!) The covid handover was easy enough, although in hindsight I could have used more tuition on the assist systems even though I'd previously downloaded the owner's manual and driven VAG cars for 20+ years. I think the main problem was that they'd furloughed my Sales Exec, and the Sales Manager was firefighting like mad to keep the customers happy!

CJJE, thats another reason I chose the Karoq. The ease of adjusting the AC controls, the stop/start function, all the things that are best served with one or two touches at most is imperative. But don't get me started on ths topic, we'll be here all week.

Tail gate rear doors and panels are different on estate models to hatch backs, front doors are the same

0.3mA is not a plausible reading, do you mean 0.3A? Or 30mA?

Hi Jase, charging with battery still connected is fine - charger + to battery post, Charger -ve to tag on firewall bulkhead (important) Note to 1st poster - that battery is pretty well discharged, probably from the short runs. I'd invest in a reasonable smart charger to see if that helps. The automatic stop-start and regenerative battery charging systems really do not like short trips, especially as the alternator doesn't fully charge the battery!

Pleased to be able to help and thank you for allowing us to sponsor your forum. If anyone has any questions or requires advice/application confirmation for our products, please let Me know. We are always open to receiving feedback so fire away.....

Check out TVS Engineering. They're based in the Netherlands but they have authorised dealers/workshops around the UK (and the world) that can install the remap for you. They have a good reputation for both their engine (ECU) remapping and also their DSG (TCU) remapping. They have different stage tunes (ie - Stage 1, 2, 3 etc) or they can do a custom tune based on your requirements. Here's a link to their website for your particular engine: https://tvsengineering.com/tuning/skoda-karoq-2017-1-5-tsi-150hp-tuning/ They post regularly on their Facebook page about the results they are getting with customer's cars: https://www.facebook.com/TVSengineering Here's a sample of customers' cars (1.5TSI) that they have tuned: Karoq Sportline https://www.facebook.com/TVSengineering/posts/skoda-karoq-15-tsi-sportsline-2020orgoem-150hp-250nm-tvs-stage-2-ecu-206hp-377nm/2366749676761908/ Golf 7.5 https://www.facebook.com/TVSengineering/posts/-vw-golf-75-15-tsi-evo-orgoem-150hp-250nm-tvs-stage-2-engine-200hp-346nm-tvs-sta/1969807636456116/ Celtic Tuning also provides a tune for the 1.5TSI but I don't have any experience with them. Here's a link: https://www.celtictuning.co.uk/ I have a TVS Engineering Stage 2 ECU remap and Stage 2+ DSG remap on my Sportline 2.0TSI and am happy with the results. There's very little remapping info here in the Karoq section of Briskoda - it's a vehicle that very few seem interested in tuning (which is totally fine), or those who have remapped aren't saying much about it. You may find more info/experiences in the Performance and Tuning section: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/