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Not all cars have issues.

Last few pics from the weekend.

Hello, I received my new MK IV Octavia Vrs on the 15th January 2021. I have been to Scotland for 3 weeks and done 2300 miles. I have had no problems with the car, everything worked as it should. The only annoyance has been with the Laura ( help assistance) keep asking how she can help. I have had 2 previous Vrs a Mk 1 and a Mk 11 both totally reliable. I thought I would post this due to a lot of members feeling unsure of Skoda.

Just registered an account since I actually might be able to help you out here. You can put a limit on the charging level through the skoda connect app in the charging scheduler (not sure of the correct English name as mine is in Danish). I found it possible to limit the charge if a schedule is present (and limited), however it does not work if you have more than one schedule for some obscure reason. Interestingly enough the same option is not present in the scheduler directly in the car. Hope it helps

Quick tip, go to Menu - Settings - Voice Control and you can turn off the hot word for Laura so she doesn't annoy you.

So it looks like the cost of public charging is going up, as the VAT man has decided the full rate needs to be applied. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/revenue-and-customs-brief-7-2021-vat-liability-of-charging-of-electric-vehicles/revenue-and-customs-brief-7-2021-vat-liability-of-charging-of-electric-vehicles https://instavolt.co.uk/instavolt-ceo-issues-statement-in-response-to-hmrc-vat-brief-25-may-2021/?fbclid=IwAR0cd-0LaBWE36mYkkEOrLwLlYUkTqxxZflHiMy3OPf7WrxPKPexkwOG7XA

told you Mac....Budget creep ( but can mean no upgrades needed, just pass it by the Significant Other first )

Just wanted to say a big thankyou to you guys. Recently I’ve had a few niggles with this car and every single time I have had an issue the info and guidance found on this site, and the replies from members have saved me both time and money. I have now done three jobs myself which without this forum I would not have even considered attempting myself. 1, DSG thermostat replaced £15 2, internal blower motor £115 3, interior light switch £35 plus I’ve had the egr valve replaced - didn’t try that one myself :0) hopefully I’ll get back to my trouble free motoring now. thanks again, you’re awesome.

Mine is a 2013 Elegance so pre facelift and wipers and wash/wipe work when stationary and engine off.

Seems like I have only got half the story from the above. This only really affects Instavolt and their (incorrect) interpretation of the electricity VAT rate. The other major charging networks already charged the correct rate of 20% VAT. This was pointed out to me elsewhere and after doing further digging, it seems like all the other networks charge VAT at 20% already if you check T&Cs. Looks to me like Instavolt have already being profiting. The new charge prices look expensive now as the other players will not need to put up prices.

Think I'll do a pre-emptive strike. I have just ordered

To be sure it would be advisable to augment the foil hat with one of these: https://youtu.be/mS4njwcS4dw?t=113

Recirculation will obviously help as it shouldn't pull any air (or viruses) from outside. However, the car will only run like this for an amount of time before drawing fresh air in to keep you alive. In the real world, you're very unlikely to catch the virus outside, even less so with the short contact times you're looking at during a typical drive. Especially as your profile pic suggests you've been vaccinated. At least assuming you don't have an 'infected' climb on your bonnet and start coughing towards the cabin air inlet If you're truly worried, take a different route or don't make the journey...

https://www.quirkbooks.com/post/worst-case-wednesday-how-make-effective-tinfoil-hat

I just repaired my engine stop start button. It had developed the common fault of working less and less often and I know I could have replaced it but I figured I'd have a go at repairing first. 1 T25 screw in the underside of the lower column shroud, then 2 T25 screws in the column only visible when the wheel is turned 90 degrees. With the lower cover off I unplugged the 2 connectors. 1 is the switch and 1 is the light. Using the probes on my meter I popped the bits that helped me push the barrel out of the shroud and set about dismantling it. There are 4 plastic clips holding it together. 1 is visible, 1 is hidden under the sticker and 2 are hidden under the metal clips on either side. With pliers gently pull those metal clips out, then using the extra arms you were born with, get something under each of the 4 clips and separate the barrel. It all comes apart after that and all I did was apply a little iso alcohol to the 4 contact points on the board as well as to the 4 contacts on the silicone bit. Put it all back together and now I can turn my car on and off first time every time. Rather than 7th time sometimes! For the sake of the search engine I'll add the words KESSY engine stop start button. No need to spend any money to have your car start like it should do! I hadn't seen this post before, but there's a photo in it of the barrel disassembled

Sadly, due to doing 70 down the M40 when It ticked over I couldn’t get the photo bang on, but last night the Rapid passed the 50,000 mile mark. For context, this is a January 2014 (63 plate) Rapid Spaceback, one of the very first off the line and one of the first in the UK. I bought it in September 2014 as an ex-demonstrator with 6,500 on the clock. It’s had a gradually decreasing annul mileage, with me doing a 70 mile a day round trip from North West London to near Basingstoke every day for work, to being mostly used just at weekends and evenings for short trips, to not being used much at all during lockdown. Pre-lockdown my annual mileage had dropped to less than 5,000, so there should be many years left in the car.

I agree. The Screwfix one (or similar) will work as an emergency from a 3-pin plug. I haven't bothered to get one for my ID.4, as I don't see a time when I cannot get to a charger. I was pointing out that you get much more from the Skoda Universal charger though and this is why it is a lot more money. Now 11Kw from a wall outlet in the UK is not possible, but is possible if you go abroad where 3-phase electric in homes is common. For 50kW and above chargers, you use the cable tethered to the charger. These are CCS connectors that utilise DC charging. The supplied mode 3 cable is for home chargers and AC chargers out on the road. Most public AC chargers are 7kW or 22kW (although there are some 43kW AC chargers around) and the speed of charge your Enyaq will get is the lower of the charger speed or 11kW. The 11kW limit is the car's AC charger max power. Basically, with the supplied mode 3 cable you can use all home and public AC chargers that need a cable - some have a cable tethered to the charger. To charge faster, use a DC rapid charger which will have a cable tethered to it so your mode 3 is not required. You only need a 'portable charger' if you will end up places without any ability to charge from an EV charger and no way to top up on the way.

Some OPF engines dropped the second set of MPI injectors because with the OPF the port injectors were not strictly necessary to meet emissions targets any more . It is not as much of a power problem at first but the port injectors keep the ports clear of carbon deposits. Dual injected cars have not needed walnut treatment and are a bit easier to tune (MPI retrofits are offered for a reason) Depends how far you are tuning it and how long you plan to keep the car. If I had the choice I would go for the pre-OPF car for a few reasons, all of mine are.

As @langers2k mentioned, the TPMS hardware won't b fitted from factory. Plus ur wheels won't have the TPMS sensors. I'd assume it can b retrofitted to ur Karoq as it's not a module that requires component protection. The same TPMS module has been used in the Kodiaq. The same TPMS module is also used in a handful of VW models. I'm just not sure how different the coding and adaptations will b with the MIB3.

3500 RPM, redline is twice that, peak torque on the BBZ is about 4500 RPM, pretty quiet and relaxed at motorway speeds.

I can only imagine but the OP is taking the lid off held on with two bolts which looks like a plenum chamber where high pressure gas exits the pump, I imagine it'll be full of PAG oil but the gas is all gone now.

If you can't get the broken piece out, you could just swap that whole lid bit from the used pump you are getting.

Manual or automatic transmission? I've had nothing but good experiences with the 75bhp variant, but in the UK that was only sold in Fabias with automatic transmission, I think. Mine's in a manual 9N Polo, on about 150k and going strong.

@Jmagee Ohh so jealous of your trip. Been there last year for vacation. It was superb! Unfortunately I had a hire car. Renault Capture.

You just have to glue it to the fins of the grill. Enlarge my photo to see where to place it.

Looks to me like the lid it's screwed into simply unbolts and can be removed, thereby enabling snapped thread removal using a stud extractor and a vice.

I screwed myself and the AC pump shaft when trying to fit a new E/M clutch on my MK1 in 2005 on my job site in France without my decent tools & workshop. Being potless I just had to live without it for a decade. Then I found that the car was so old that my breakers didn't even have any of them left on the pile!!! And that I could get a second hand pump from E-bay for £30 delivered, I fitted it (not too hard a job at all) had a regas and had cold air for the first time in 10 years

Check rear discs. Prone to premature rusting. Needed replaced at 2yr9months and 26k miles on my 2018 Superb Estate 1.4Tsi

I had a similar issue with my Yeti KESSY start/stop button a couple of times over the 7 years and 90k miles I had the car. I didn't need to dismantle anything apart from carefully prising the chrome ring out from around the start/stop button then giving a good spray of electrical cleaner in where the ring sits. Worked a treat and a 5 minute job.

Up till recently even at a 5 Star hotel like Trump Turnberry you needed a 3 pin plug charger with you. They were able to provide an extension lead!

So just an update. Just been scanned through by Skoda and after some investigations they have found that it is a faulty N80 valve. Fingers crossed this should sort the problem 🤞.

Conrgats - i ordered on the 11th march - my dealer said that there is no confirmed date yet, but the approx date is second part of August...

Ohh lets see. I've just done it at 58k and first handover to the garage I got it from was 22nd September 2017, so just over 3.5 ish years old now. It was probably doing it at least 6 months ago if not more, but when you don't know its a known issue you put it down to not hitting it right or whatever. Only in the last 3 months have I really realised that its taking multiple actions to start and stop the car and it wasn't just me having finger trouble. I might have been able to argue when it has its major service next week that the button to start the car isn't fit for purpose if it dies 4 years in, and that it should be replaced free despite being out of warranty. Frankly for 20 minutes of fiddling it was easier doing this. Last thing I wanted was them doing it and going "well we decided not to do it for free so where's our £150 for this 10 minute job?".

Hello Jezzer123, I also purchased a new Vrs without options. I have had a reversing camera fitted by a company called E.S.P Cars. 0115 9464500 contact name is Richard. I think they have mobile units that cover most of the Country. I did have to wait a month or so due to them getting the software from Poland in order for the camera to work as factory fitted. But since fitting my car they are up and running in fitting cameras. They also fitted a dash cam that I thought was reasonably priced. Hope this is useful.

@Gax I totally understand you. I'm not sure what would I do if my car would have so many issues as some of you guys have. Especially the ones which are life threatening. I would also guess a lot of issues are connected to the UK and driving on the left side of the car. But as you said. Nobody knows for sure. Since also some of the newer cars have issues. Still, as already mentioned. I'm pretty sure there is a lot more mk4 Octavia owners who don't have any major issues. Since people usually only seek help or advice when they have issues.

I suppose it depends on individual peoples level of expectation, problems they are willing to risk having, or problems they are prepared to live with if they strike. I appreciate @TheUltraRunner saying not all cars have issues, and I do not dispute that at all, but nobody knows until they have their car whether theirs will or won't have issues. So that doesn't totally explain people still ordering them. Try as we might, for MONTHS still nobody on this forum has identified a hardware/software combination, version numbers, and build dates that will guarantee NO problems. So, anyone reading this forum and still ordering a MK4 is taking a risk, pure and simple, as there is no way whatsoever of knowing what you will receive. In all honesty, if I had read this forum and had not yet owned a MK4 in all likelihood I could see me taking a chance on one as well, as we all think nah it won't happen to me! So I can't blame people. The reality was that in 20 years of driving I just got out of the single worst five months of car ownership and customer care I have ever experienced in those 20 years. What can I say though, I have a Superb on order, so I am still staying with Skoda. What is that Obi Wan Kenobi quote about 'the fool'.....?!

Our current ŠKODA Karoq is 2 years old in August and we have only done 8000 miles, should be able to get about 5 years out of a set of tyres. So looking at the long game I believe the cost of the tyres are affordable.🤣🤣🤣

It can learn another drivers though, and you have to get it back learning your style. It is just a mechanical thing and software, not human or magic. but VW have in them something of a bit of smoke and mirrors, but then they were caught.

Owners Manuals might tell you about 'Dynamic Mode' with DQ200 DSG's. There certainly is a behaviour that you can get from a DQ200 dsg when giving it spirited driving. You can let someone else drive your car and when you get it back you can 'get it' back to your way of driving. You can pick up a 'Demonstrator' / Hire car or one you borrow and then Give it some Dynamic driving and have it as you want. You can 'Reset the DSG' as well. There are more to DSG's than is obvious, like VW used Defeat Devices with the gearboxes and not just engines and they went into different settings under testing and VW were caught out with this with various combinations of engines and DSG's with implausible C02 g/km results. http://hypermiler.co.uk/gearbox/how-to-fix-those-clunky-gear-changes-with-a-dsg-reset-vw-skoda-audi-seat-gearbox-auto http://motorauthority.com/news/1107126_report-new-defet-device-discovered-in-audi-transmission https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/car-news/99634/audi-recalls-127000-cars-over-emissions-device-discovery

I asked for a new belt (for the pump) because the car's got 44+ K miles / 5 yrs on it, the leak may have damaged it, it's not going to cost much, and the linked service manual states to replace with new whenever the pump is removed. I suspect that's why there's a range in price quotes - some garages may have assumed a timing belt (and kit) change, which is not what I'm after and would cost megabucks.

where is my crystal ball some answers you may find in this section https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/7-skoda-audio-electronics-and-security/

Just to follow up on this after a couple of days driving round after the simplification mod. The car is noticeably smoother on idle. I had suspicions that the pipes were past their best and since the replacements the car seems happier. I haven't noticed any drop in performance, there are currently no error codes and the idle speed sits between 830/840rpm when warm. I'll give it a few more weeks and report back if there are any detrimental effects on the car & how it runs.

@DragosIonuts https://www.drive2.com/l/475768303139160473/

For 7Jx17” rims, the correct tyre should be 225/45 R17 91W. As for the tyre brand and model, everyone will have their own opinion and it'll depend on your driving style... I expect any decent branded tyres will be fine. As you're in the North, you might want to consider all-season tyres such as crossclimates. You'll lose some Summer performance but they'll be better in Winter

I've got these lights from Kopacek (Super Skoda) and I have to be honest and say when I first fitted them I thought they were quite ridiculous and actually thought about removing them. But...I stuck with them and now I love them I was a bit surprised at how big the light units actually were, and also the fact that they are transparent (I didn't realise this before I ordered them) instead of being actually red in colour like the originals... The one on the passenger side door was always originally making me think my wife had left something on the passenger seat in the corner of my eye, because there was suddenly this weird silvery object there, but I can say I'm used to it now and no longer notice it. The red glow is much much brighter than the original lights and does give quite a nice glow... Here's another pic when it's fully dark. I think the night-mode on my phone does make the red glow appear a bit more 'crazy' than in real life... And just incase that wasn't enough, here's a video of me opening the door... Ignore my laughing in the video, this was back when I thought they were ridiculous. So yeah, but of a shock at first and for a while I always thought something was falling out of the car when I opened the door but now I'm used to them I'd definitely highly recommend them

Welcome to the Failed Octavia MK4 club.

I've just sold an Octavia 2015 1.6 TDI (ex-Taxi) that did 196k with no major issues at all and was still on its original clutch. Only major outlay was £230 for front shock absorbers. Sure it wasn't very refined but it was hugely reliable and cheap to run with full bluetooth and zero road tax plus 50+ mpg.

I'm aware the mod for 30 colour pallet in the ambient lighting screen has been mentioned several times on the forum. TLDR: The RGB values used on available in the table at the bottom on my post. There was some rough guidance on RGB values, but I wanted to aim for an OEM+ look. I've taken some time build a colour pallet of 30 colours based on the original 10 that come as standard. Rather than attempting to join up the dots by looking at raw RGB values, I've built a gradient for the 10 RGB values from the originals. I then referenced 30 colours from the gradient and noted down the values. Below is the original screen values, the gradient, and the 30 colours picked out. The ambient lighting strip uses different colours values to the screen values, interesting though, the white value from the ambient light strip is actually a light green, but appears white on the strip. The original pallet prior to coding: The 30 colour pallet after coding. A massive thanks for @Ivan8192 for helping with the script, and allowing access to his VCDS again! and to @SashaGracefor piquing my interest into this mod. For anyone interested the RGB values are available below: Screen Ambient Strip Basic Colour Red Green Blue Basic Colour Red Green Blue White 217 221 233 White 120 231 71 229 205 161 163 221 49 241 190 88 205 211 26 Yellow 253 174 16 Yellow 247 202 4 254 155 18 234 167 2 254 135 34 208 128 3 Orange 253 115 50 Orange 183 89 5 251 85 52 189 60 5 247 51 47 215 40 4 Red 244 18 43 Red 241 20 3 244 19 73 255 27 17 247 59 142 255 65 49 Lilac 251 100 212 Lilac 255 105 82 232 109 243 244 134 112 197 98 247 196 136 136 Magenta 163 86 251 Magenta 149 138 160 129 77 255 104 139 183 87 85 255 70 130 207 Blue 45 93 255 Blue 37 121 229 5 101 255 4 111 251 0 127 255 8 142 226 Cyan 1 156 255 Cyan 17 179 194 1 184 255 26 215 162 1 194 214 35 229 120 Green 0 197 157 Green 45 236 73 0 200 99 54 242 27 30 210 70 58 228 3 Lemon 88 227 65 Lemon 58 196 2 145 244 60 57 163 1 182 255 57 57 132 0

nope, easy enough - this video shows the process well. I got the version that , as well as indicating, does some cool blue led animation when the puddle lights come on also https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001893801465.html

If I moved to induction I would have to add a gas ring on order of the misses for certain types of breads and foods she cooks.