Leaderboard

The front assist only applies the brakes at the last minute to avoid a collision. Believe me if it does deploy you will certainly know about it, imagine an emergency stop x10.

nausea and chest pain....geesus ring a doctor man..

Stop/ start system batteries are normally only charged to approximately 80% by the system to allow for some capacity from the regenerative braking.

Toodled home on a 25 mile journey last night at a steady 50mph with no stops and 4 roundabouts and managed from the display 67.8mpg which is the most I have ever got from a petrol engine during my motoring life. OK, if the accuracy is in doubt it is a reference marker on what is achievable. If 10% optimistic I can live with it. The Roomster is not the best aerodynamic shape out there but it competes well with the hybrid and mild hybrid technology on offer today.

Good Morning Danduck You may just find everything you are looking for here LINK A full set of workshop manuals for the YETI. Compliments of Arkaig - A truly valued Briskoda member! Incidentally, you will find the manuals and a whole load of other exceptionally valuable & technical information in the Skoda YETI Guides section - HERE It's a really informative and helpful section unfortunately often overlooked and not seen by many. I hope it helps! Let us know how the repair to the loom works out...........Best of luck - Tony

Had a Superb 2 with the 140CR diesel. Great car. Commute was one hour, 95% motorway. Never had any issue for 6 years. I then changed jobs. Commute became 15 minutes, no motorway at all. Within 2 months I had to go and do forced DPF regen on the highway. Within another month I had injector failure. You can mock me, but I honestly thought I could feel the car was not happy. It really seemed to 'miss' it's usual commute... 3 months after that I swapped it for a Superb 3 150 petrol.

That's the thanks people get for spending their time and effort trying to help you is it? What do you want - a refund? You've had the car since new in 2002, so after 19 years you decide that the pedal throw doesn't feel right and there must be a stop missing even though it's always been exactly the same from the day it left the showroom 19 years ago - you having a laugh or something? Didn't you ask Skoda about it earlier in the car's life if you thought it wasn't right?

Vital edits inline, bold.

This weekend my Octavia PD 1.9 passed the 400000 miles I had brought it when it was brand new in March 2009 since then has 2 engines, first one gave up after 168000 due to crankshaft shell bearing breaking up (Scrap Engine). 2nd engine still going slight blue smoke on starting first thing in the morning but nothing else. Still has original gearbox, 2nd clutch fitted and now with normal flywheel at the time replacement. One injector replaced, camshaft has been replaced. Can anybody beat this mileage? Michael

I had my Yeti for nearly 10 years and never found it uncomfortable, firm yes. One answer might be (and I appreciatice its rare) is to find a car with the electric drivers seat option, as it has more adjustments than the manual. Andy

The charging system will still not charge it up fully even if you always disable S/S.

The only issue I had was that the parking ticket clip was a bit floppy afterwards. Parts-wise, either nothing needed replacing or the windscreen company knew what was required and supplied it.

Yerr - but be careful. We've had several members who have had issues with the coolant expansion tank caps 'failing' - and coolant disappearing. Invest in some ready mixed G12evo or G12++. TDI engines do use coolant (I have had many TDI engines [150s and 184s] and they all seem to use coolant around regen time. Weekly checks under the bonnet are a good thing.

Quite common for small air bubbles, introduced in the factory fill process, to disperse causing the level to drop. Unless level keeps dropping nothing to worry about.

Thanks - you have an MIB2 system (Amunsden) - Amundsen MY17 unit 5Q0035874B (with DAB). If we speak very nicely to @pab567 he will hopefully be able to provide the latest firmware for your system (SOP3.x). I think the latest version of firmware is 0363 for that hardware.

Our 300 mile trip to Cornwall will be interminable. At motorway speeds I normally get 53mpg so some sacrifice

These two posts provide the best description of the process that I've seen yet - though you need to get your browser to translate them first 😁 https://www.drive2.ru/l/558099733827027645/ https://www.drive2.ru/l/560219592245380256/ There's no danger of needing radar recalibration unless you remove the whole bumper - and even then I don't think it would definitely be needed, if you are careful (though I haven't tried yet).

Hopefully before any European Governments impose bans on the sale of liquid fuel passenger cars there will be advances in their efficiency for those that want to purchase ones before production ends and the ability to have them registered for use on public roads. EDIT. If Governments are going to be delaying or postponing the date that ICE cars can be First Registered in their countries they need to get on and tell the manufacturers. http://bbc.co.uk/news/business-57253947

Hey Neil, Send us a pix of your Scout. In terms of the MIB system, I think it is worth finding out what version of firmware you have on your system (press [hold] Menu -> Software -> Software Version) and send us the screenshot There are various annoying niggles that can easily be sorted out via a firmware update on your system. Thanks Max

There are a fair number of sceptics on that boating forum, so it may be that this is all made up - like VW's EA189 "Clean Diesel", but I'm going to keep an open mind for now.

Excellent thread Sheb. Nice to see another sticking to original parts and refreshing the VRS.

totally agree re; bottom bracket my first one creaked after 400 miles and had to be replaced can't change to a threaded due to frame stiffening in BB so i'd go threaded if you can, but there getting harder to find on lower spec bikes. one thing to consider is do you really need + sized tyres as the trek is running 40mm rims with 2.8 they do feel quite heavy and if you're doing a lot of climbing could be quite noticeable over say a 2.4 with a i30 rim also if go with the i40 you're kinda stuck using +sized tyres

My 1984 2.6 litre straight 4 cylinder Mitsubishi Shogun had a balance shaft, it was a very smooth torquey and responsive engine.

An update. Seemed to improve a bit after the garage visit. The big change was a couple of decent blasts along the motorway. Yesterday I even managed 50mpg (according to CPU) on a 70 mile journey. I think with all this lockdown nonsense the car just hasn't been driven enough. This is certainly the case for the stop/start, I don't think the battery was getting topped up enough between starts so the stop/start was quite rightly deactivating. Traffic has been increasing with the easing of lockdown so that may have affected it too. To answer some of the suggestions: Airfilter was fine. Petrol 'seemed' fine (no other local complaints) Brakes ok, this was something I asked the garage to specifically check but also checked myself (none were overheating after a short drive). Computers ok (Can't even find where to change it into metric! But is on imperial). Thanks all for your suggestions/advice etc. Now to the Fabia VRS forum to sort the little car out!

VW group were using IPSOS to do Surveys, very intrusive questions and continuing to contact customers even when told to STOP. It was a Micky take then IPSOS have some sort of award to VW for great customer services. If everything in the world was run by VW it would be just like the UK,s handling of the pandemic where everyday some government minister says the UK is the best in the world at what it does. Many many die but then that is really just a small percentage.

Yes - all this is good. Looks like that the MK4 Scout's won't be arriving anytime soon in the UK, so it is worth keeping our existing MK3 Scout's going for as long as possible. Good luck to @Nickj633

Well yes, that'll do it.

Flush the engine oil by taking the vehicle out and get the engine oil indicated temp up to about 100*oC then get the pump and remove the oil, change the filter, remove and change the sump plug and see what comes out if anything, then refill with oil, take it for a run and get the oil up to operating temp, stop and check the oil level and see if it needs any topping up to be at Area A on the dipstick at normal operating temp.

Surely if it’s a manual you need to depress the clutch to start, on DSG it’s the brake you depress, you don’t need to do both. The autohold applies the brakes same as you pressing the brake pedal and is not an automatic handbrake.

I just read this as "add a bottle of expensive snake oil..." Anything that is delivered through the fuel system will stop working as soon as it gets out of the injectors.

You can add wireless Car Play or wireless Android Auto using third party adapters. For Android there is only one available, and there is a wait of several months. I received mine a few weeks ago and it is working well. https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/aawireless#/ Apart from the wireless car play / android auto, I don't think the MIB3 units have any major advantage, and they have several possible disadvantages (depending on point of view), including no SIM slot, SD slots or DVD/CD. There also seem to be several bugs and software issues at the moment, though hopefully those will be addressed over time.

I personally think that ban may not be able to happen as early as hoped, but yes.

I haven't purchased yet but when I do I'll post a few pics of them fitted.

If all you do is short school runs then any euro6 diesel with DPF will clog up. It’s even more likely with car rated to euro6d (so be wary of anyone saying they managed with early euro6 car), Once it starts to clog it will just get worse. Having it in an almost continuous wants to do a regen as soon as warm enough mode is going to use more fuel. You are either going to have to take it for long run at intervals, or simply avoid the problem and get a petrol (or an electric) car. If you only want a local runaround then leasing a new (or newish) car is unlikely to be best solution, get something older, use part of the money for proper full service and save overall. Appears op lives in Scotland so change the tyres to all seasons or winters. If you leased a car it will have Eco summer tyres on (pretty hopeless in wet below about +9c), so wouldn’t have got your kids to school in snow anyway.

MY21 has a new steering-wheel, new infotainment software (MIB3) with wireless Android Auto / Car Play, and 2 USB-C sockets instead of USB-A. You can no longer insert your own SIM card, you need to pay Skoda for a data plan using their integrated SIM.

VAG-COM showed clearly what the problem is. The coolant temperature is an important factor in setting the air/fuel mixture ratio. In your case the mixture is too rich.

Latest Updated Speedcams - June, 2021. Here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( June, 2021). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams June, 2021.zip

If the car is only going to be used for trips to school then i’d suggest just getting a cheap run around. I do very little miles in my diesel but when I do drive it’s mostly on long runs. I’ve had the regen happen several times in my ownership but never the light on the dash as most times if I notice it’s doing a regen i’ll then do a pointless trip on the motorway until I notice it goes into 6th gear again (thanks EU) To specifically answer your question i’ve done around 2-3k a year in my car in the last 4 years and no problem at all

I too was put off by the price, so I ordered it from AliExpress… Took me some time to find but I was very impressed for under £20 delivered. Hope it may help 😀 https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqMjBgv

I would imagine the Snap On tool can do it although I've no idea how as I've never used one... The garage might need to contact Snap On for support

I need to buy a big exaggerated cartoon type boxing glove to cover it!

Some lessons you dont forget, to my surprise I have yet to walk into this one (famous last words) but when I do you can be sure the memory will remain and I will develop a reflex action of swerving well wide of the rear of my car. People never park close to me any more but get very agitated when I am reversing towards them, especially as they think I am not looking whereas in fact with my reversing camera I can judge it right up to the point of impact.

Three things, for what it’s worth. Thing one: you’ll probably end up not detaching your detachable tow bar because it’s a faff, and then you won’t be able to detach it anyway because it’ll have seized in the receiver. Thing two: if you don’t bother detaching your detachable tow bar you will walk into it, and it’ll hurt like a *******, but you’ll only do it once. Thing three: leaving your detachable tow bar attached will almost certainly save your bumper from some feckless park-by-feel merchant at some point. A 50mm hole in his bumper should be a lesson, but it mostly isn’t. Thing four: spend the hundred quid on beer. Whether you do that all at once or over a period of time is a matter of conscience.

Teir ... Thank you so much, i looked but clearly not enough to locate, I found the interior trim guide.... shakes head. This is perfect. Seriously you don't want to know what the dealer quoted for fitting the new one. To be cautious i will beer and pizza some assistance for the removal/fitting. Stay happy and well peoples.

OK so I have decided to have a go at stripping it tomorrow I've been looking at youtube videos doesn't look too bad a job, I don't have the timing tools but there is plenty of mobile mechanics out there when I strip it I will call one and ask them to fit the belt, I also know a couple of people in the trade that might do it, I was a time served mechanic I worked on Citroens but that is nearly 50 years ago I have all the tools apart from the timing tools, as you say I might have got away with it, so get a belt kit and pump get it fitted start it up see what happens?.

I've just fitted Thule wingbar edge to my estate and they're obviously different. Mine were 86cm + 86cm + 7206 foot pack + 6096 fitting kit. Fit great but the instructions could be better. I have square bars too which were fine on my Kodiaq but couldn't bring myself to fit them to my vRS.

The workshop manuals are available on here. You want pages 211 to 213 of the 'General body repairs, exterior' manual. And a good hairdryer, by the look of it!

I think my Fabia with really big miles had relatively few problems because: - Much of the driving was on motorways - It did not really get used for short journeys. Most journeys were 50 miles to 300 miles in length. - I followed 10k miles service intervals - for most of the cars life. - Used my local independent garage for servicing - high quality servicing. Cheers

Grills on the mids fitted. To my eyes, looks a lot better with them in place. Normally they wouldn't be fitted, so needed some fettling