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Something went wrong so perhaps the moderators could delete the thread with a similar title. On the car fora I've belonged to, members tend to post all the nightmares they have had with their vehicles, whereas the majority who are satisfied keep quiet. So I'm starting a thread to report on my experiences with our Octavia iV Estate. I hope this gives some reassurance to those who have perhaps been put off by negative comments. The Good Despite the tyres being fairly low profile (225/45 R18) Skoda has matched the suspension to them and the ride is limousine-like on N Yorkshire's bumpy roads and much better than either the Yeti or the Karoq. With having a wheel at each corner, the handling is excellent. The transition between e-power and engine is unnoticeable and the 6-speed auto (hopefully the robust wet-clutch version) is also smooth.There are a large number of menu options, with switches for key functions and I've found my way around the many options, which didn’t take long. Before starting, I select the most useful display (currently power flow). The speedometer is very clear: as the virtual needle sweeps clockwise tiny lit dots appear as well as the numeric speed in 20mph intervals plus a numeric digital display in the bottom of the display. A clever feature is that both the numerical and pseudo-analogue displays show kph when the units are changed. Voice control is very simple, accepting plain speech commands, so it will plan a journey using town, street and house number, as well as adjusting the aircon on either side and many other choices too. The regenerative braking is excellent: it has two levels of regeneration plus automatic but I have maximum regen, so that going downhill I hardly need to use the footbrake and light touches on the accelerator keep speeds within the appropriate limits in town. On a steep section of around 3 miles, the regen added 1/2 kWhr to the battery. At junctions the brakes are hardly needed. The lane control works well - if I move over the central white line, the steering vibrates and gently puts me back in the centre of the lane. The smart cruise control is effective, although probably more useful on dual carriageways or motorways. I’ve done a couple of trips using battery only: for example 16 miles on battery alone with an average of 21mph at a cost of £1.30. Currently, I am likely to achieve 700 miles on one tank of fuel. The MySkoda app enables me to pre-set the aircon, which will be useful for short trips in winter and once I have a Smart meter I'll be able to charge the car using Octopus Go between 00:30 and 00:40 for 5p/kWhr (ie 65p for 30 miles). I can also pre-set the charging time using the app as well as monitoring the charge state. There is a built-in SIM card, so the car links to an Android 'phone via Bluetooth. I've also set the clock to Internet time so it should always be accurate. The boot is bigger than previous cars we've owned and our greyhound is able to get in and out easily, with lots of room to get comfy. There are two large storage spaces on either side of the boot, as well as space behind the rear seats and the rear of the boot protector. The Skoda dog guard still allows the roller-blind boot cover to be used to hide boot contents. I’m running-in the car for the first 1000 miles, but with a combined horsepower of 202 the acceleration is awesome and even in e-mode, with the torque available from an electric motor, from zero mph upwards it rockets away, ideal around town. I also find that the car will creep very slowly, so on wet grass or snow I'm hoping that I'll be able to get moving. My only slight concern is that the car has complex menus and sub-menus to navigate through, so older less techy folk (like me) might have difficulty getting to know the options immediately after a quick run-through at the dealers. It is very easy to find the basics and drive the car away, but it does need time to get the maximum benefits from all the built-in features. The (not so) bad There are a few software glitches, which are annoying rather than concerning. Until I set the clock to Internet time, it reset itself a couple of times; the short, medium and long-term mph/e-usage values reset themselves once; the TPM warning came on for no apparent reason (the tyres were well-warmed up) but this used to happen occasionally with the Karoq. There is no jack or spare wheel, but with such a heavy car a scissor jack would be dangerous anyway, so if the gunge doesn't work, I'll press the panic button to summon Skoda Assist. In any case, Skoda UK has recently received a software update which will be offered to several thousand owners, so I'm hoping that this will fix the minor issues, when the car is at the dealers on June 17th. Definitely not ugly The estate is the best looking car that Skoda currently produces. Our Yeti was a very distinctive one-off design and I can still recognise one at one hundred paces. Our Karoq was a fine car, with technology 10 years in advance of the Yeti, but it looked so bland, like all the three K's Skoda currently offer, as well as every other manufacturer's cars on the market. I can only recognise the make when I see the badge. The Skoda is a beautiful design from all angles and we love it. Conclusion It's definitely the best car we've ever owned and it's a credit to Skoda for continuing to update the Octavia to its present state and it's certainly far superior to my first Octavia, bought 18 years ago - and that was an excellent car for the time. If anyone is considering buying a Mark 4 Octavia, then I highly recommend it, but if you have any concerns then wait until I've reported back after the software update. I hope this information helps you.

Renault Laguna. The four TPMS valves had a coloured rubber band around the stem. You could not move the valves from their designated rubber band coloured position on the car. The spare when fitted would show a warning light. The stems would break. The batteries went flat. You couldn't just change the valve stem with the rubber seal, so they would leak from where they fit to wheel. Peugeot 407. If you had the pear shaped key fob you couldn't move the valves from the original position on the car, if you knew where that was after you fitted four new tyres at the same time. The spare when fitted would show a warning. The stems would break. The batteries went flat. You couldn't just change the valve stem with the rubber seal, so they would leak from where they fit to wheel. The later 407's with the rectangular key fob you could at least move the valves around. The sensors were set to warn you at 2.0 bar but the normal pressures were 2.6 bar. So you could drive with the tyres underinflated by 0.5 bar with no warning. When these TPMS valves were £100.00 a piece fitted/programmed when it stopped working people would replace them all with normal valves and turn the TPMS off. If you don't have a spare wheel/tyre and you drive on a flat tyre you can break the TPMS valve inside the wheel/tyre. I would rather have the indirect ABS system and check my tyres and pressures. Thanks, AG Falco

I think it initiates a short calibration period for the next few minutes of driving. Within that time period it will work out average relative wheel speeds for each wheel, presumably ignoring times when there's steering input. Then it must store these average numbers for future comparison.

Good story

The sickly smell and smoke was from where you overheated the clutch trying to drive it off the rocks, if the clutch does not slip in the higher gears when under boost then you have got away with it. The scraping to the sump & bellhousing is minimal, you were very lucky as the cast alu sumps break easily, I dont think that you have damaged the sensor, the wrning lights will have been where it was pushed and not making contact. You should really learn how to check and top up the fluid levels, oil, brake fluid, coolant, windscreen wash etc before taking to the road let alone going off road.

I can understand that you have lost confidence - but in general, the later built cars are not so bad as the early builds. And remember, most people only post on forums like these if they have problems with their car - so you will get a negative bias. I have been driving a late 2020 Octavia whilst my own (early-mid 2020) is at the dealer awaiting a fix from Skoda UK. This loan car has been faultless for the 2 months (2500+ miles/ 4000+ Km) I have been driving it. A fix for mine is due later this month and I hope it will sort the issues with it. Several of the issues are UK (or right hand drive or miles (not Kms)) specific such as speed limit signs recognised in Km not miles, sometimes! For the assist systems, they cannot be permanently disabled, which is a frustration for some - all down to personal choice. The exception is the Cruise Control / Speed Limiter which is configurable. I don’t think this will change with the latest software version. There is a button on the steering wheel to give quick access to control the assist systems whilst driving so, for example, the Lane Assist can be disabled - but once you restart the car it is enabled again. The Octavia is a great car to drive and a ‘pleasant place to be’ which is why I am waiting for the fix - I want my car and am frustrated, but I am giving Skoda the opportunity to fix the issues. I hope this helps you to relax and look forward to your new car…

Always worth a look on the Skoda approved website as new cars often appear there first and not all make it to AT etc. Found my car in there as a 'coming soon' so bought it before it made it to market. It is also worth noting that used prices are high right now due to the waiting time for new cars (across all brands) caused by the chip shortage

Problem you've got is the vRS245 in that age range is the MY18 vRS245 limited edition basically, the current challenge model without the button start (not a bad thing IMHO) IIRC, the list price was about 3k more than the fl230 hence, you could have problems with your budget. It's the pick of the crop though & if you're into tuning your cars, this particular car was the last WITHOUT a GPF. TBH if I was you, I'd stretch the budget & go get what you really want otherwise, you'll never really be happy. Go look at the 1 you mentioned, do it properly with an appointment & they'll be ready for a serious buyer & importantly know what the can do discount wise however, its your call. GLWP

I'm forever confusing the two...

Amazing, such a simple thing completely fixed the issue, well done my friend!

Errr, it really doesn't look that bad from here, I can see all the wear blocks are at a similar depth on both tyres and they're close to worn out all the way across.

Got maps working on the virtual cockpit retrofit finally, and got the TV tuner retrofit finished with all the aerials etc properly wired cleanly

Tonight's sunset.......

I thought you would like those amanda haha

Thanks bud!,bought it for £1,200 last month fsh,111,000 genuine got a service and they said it was a "minter",x2 tr bushes advised but that was it!,came out of autoworx yesterday after a remap told them to keep it at 200bhp and power delivery is lovely now,(not that it wasnt in first place),-how long is that box though!!-2nd is hilarious!, Love this car.

I meant J.R. with his analysis, sorry!

Item 3 is the oil level sensor. You'll need full engine details to find/check the part no. of the sensor. AFAIK it can be changed without removing the sump although the oil will need to be drained. This is possibly the part, but check 04L 907 660 C or 03C 907 660 G https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/04l907660c-oil-level-sensor-hella-30794.html The oily deposits around the top of the sump look like the usual old oily leaks that are normal on older diesels and they've been there for a long time before the incident. If its a 2.0tdi engine, possibly like the one below, then it looks like the oil sump guard is missing. IIRC Scouts usually came fitted with sump guards (plastic I think) https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2008-419/1/103-103020/ Edit: I've removed a sentence from my reply as on re-reading the original post properly, I realised the smoke was not coming from the sensor , so ignore what I originally said about the sensor being damaged.

Thanks for your help everyone. Do I need a connector on this then? Or a whole new bit? My mechanic has advised to return this and when I go to the scrapyard have him give them a call.

Mk3 Fabia can come with the option of 18" rims. There have never been 19" rims on Mk1, Mk2 or Mk3 Fabia's as as option. There was never 18" rims as an Option on Mk1 or Mk2 Fabia. They do fit. Audi A1's could have 18" Rims as an option.

Okay, I will try checking the parts with VCDS, thank you very much b1ackb1rd, this will be really helpful...

I don't actually want you to do anything, The lane assist being cancelled by indicating is merely for information.

My buddy is a mechanic and I'll be taking the car to him in a couple weeks for a service so will ask him to look into this and let you know if he finds anything different.

Thanks for the info mate, much appreciated!

You describe the character of the car very well but I would add comfortable. spacious, frugal and safe. Depends what you want really. Before coming back to the Toledo I had a 276 BHP Superb L&K which had every luxury you could think of. However I found my self using the wife's Dacia when the destination had tricky parking and , worst of all, being irked by "challenges" from lesser models pulling up next to me at traffic lights which required me to crush them with the might of the Superb's horses. Pretty unedifying for a 70 year old and hence I went back to the souless and bland Toledo.

Just looked deeper and the number on the unit with inlet pipes on if for the pressure switch itself of standard design so it appears that the 90 degree part is just a bracket - with the attachment of the switch via the screw on the LH end. This would suggest that you need to identify the number on the one fitted to your car, check for revisions/official updates with later suffix letters and buy based on that. Once again Winos understanding of wiring may allow an understanding of how the switch works, my theory being that applying pressure on the pre-pdf side would either change resistance across contacts or be a make/break signal.

Yes a lot of VAG wheels will fit as long as they're 5x100

I use Pro Rack roof racks to carry the bike racks. Easy to fit/remove and adjust. It's not the 'aero' version, so it does get a bit noisy when driving at speed. Bought it back when I had my mk2 Octavia RS liftbacks. I can use it on the Superb now.

You may want to post it in the fabia section. This is Octavia.

if the oil meets the spec required, the brand plays a part only on the price really.

Pop the cork back in now !

I use this, it’s great stuff!

There is no rocker switch on the end of the wiper stalk, do you have MFSW?

Continuity checked or just looked at? You need to continuity check this wiring.

I had Lava blue on my Seat it's lovely colour

Have you ever run a business? My father sold motorcycles and cars as well as building their engines, general repairs and spraying them. Some weeks you sell several and some weeks, none. Businesses have to make a decent mark up to pay, business rates, taxes, staff costs, rental etc, warranty or service costs and deal with some very unscrupulous buyers....oh yes and make a living. Then jokers on this and other sites refer to them as stealers. Nobody wants to pay dealer prices...until there’s a warranty claim. As you say, probably best for you to buy privately, 3 year old Octavia TSI with regular oil and filter changes should be good for many fault-free miles. Good luck.

I get what your saying but I must admit over the 30 years of buying cars I have had mixed experiences of both, and can't ignore the ridiculous mark up main dealers charge over private sales, sometimes £3-£4k more, and then alot of their stock come from auction or ex fleet. When I have bought privately in the past (always 1 owner vehicles full history etc) it's good to meet the owner and get a feel for how the vehicle has been used / cared for. You don't get that at garages but as you say there is extra protection, but when buying privately alot of that risk is avoided if vehicle less than 3 years old and still under warranty.

It didn’t work for me either. I’m an engineer by trade and am competent on the tools. I’ve also been in the motor trade - working on and around cars - for longer than I care to remember. I cut the mechanism open to gain access to the plastic gear, but had no success in it releasing the deadlock. I tried several times... The only option was to break the lock assembly apart so I could get to the latch, and then finally open the door. Fortunately I had a spare lock mechanism that I’d previously bought for a Mk4 Golf - but never used. The general consensus of opinion was that the Golf item - whilst looking and being mechanically the same - wasn’t compatible, due to differences within the electrical side of things. However - and to my delight, in this instance it worked absolutely fine and all is now well. Thank you to everyone on here and everywhere else for the help and advice. Most appreciated 👍🏽

Skoda Octavia MK1 Estate 1.9 TDI 66kW 4x4 https://web.tecalliance.net/gkn/en/parts/cars/assigned?assemblyGroupId=100113&targetId=12243&typeNumber=12243&groups=188&brands=1&page=0#@brc/brands:Car;targetType:cars/assem:SKODA%20OCTAVIA%20I%20Combi%20(1U5)%201.9%20TDI%204x4;targetType:cars;targetId:12243;typeNumber:12243/lnkparts:Coil%20Springs;targetType:cars;assemblyGroupId:100113;targetId:12243;typeNumber:12243;groups:188;brands:1;page:0 Front Springs 1J0411105AF Spring Design Coil spring with constant wire diameter Fitting Position Front Axle Colour Coding Violet, Yellow Wire Diameter 12.5 mm Length 354 mm Outer diameter 142 mm Weight 2.15 kg (1) 1J0411105AF coil spring for models with heavy duty suspension 1 paint mark 1 paint mark violet yellow Model data: PR-G07/L06 PR-G40/L06 http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/OCT/year/2001/drive_standart/252/hg_ug/411/subcategory/411005/part_id/2561497/lang/e Sachs 997616 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223670056870?hash=item3413c637a6:g:dRwAAOSwiQxdgd64 Rear Springs 1J9511115D Spring Design Mini Block Fitting Position Rear Axle Colour Coding Orange (5x) Wire Diameter 10.3 mm Wire Diameter 1 16.7 mm Wire diameter 2 10.3 mm Length 233 mm Outer diameter 148 mm Weight 2.5 kg 1 1J9511115D coil spring 5 paint marks orange Model data: KOMBI http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/OCT/year/2001/drive_standart/252/hg_ug/511/subcategory/511015/part_id/2561497/lang/e Sachs 994196 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224174529422?hash=item3431d7db8e:g:ig8AAOSwa4xde0fw

Yup, scanning with the engine running is fine 👍

Update - This fixed the issue, back to widescreen android auto. Thanks DManel, hope this fixes everyone elses as well

Well, I just had the same issue, with Car Play, not using the full screen, after I added a 3x3 view of car play to the main screen. The Car Play would always be "processed" in that size, no matter what. After I removed the "widget" from the home menus, it started to display in full screen again when I open the Car Play. Maybe that's the same with Android Auto...

I can agree with your reasons for not having a sunroof, but for me they are outweighed by the advantages. The point you make about a sunroof robbing headroom is correct, but I find there's plenty of headroom anyway, so that doesn't matter to me. Oh, and I'm not that small at 6'1". As we're both retired, I rarely go anywhere without SWMBO, so I only have to ask for anything I want and it's handed to me. If it's sunglasses, I don't even have to reach up!

...Bent shock could also cause the tracking/steering to be out a bit.

DCC is a brilliant option especially if you live in a city with speed ramps, bus cushions and different driving conditions...I use it all the time...best of luck with new car 👍

Your car looks great.. I have a quartz grey Kodiaq on order... your photo has settled my colour choice..

This is turning into one of those decent home-cooked food vs McDonalds conversations. Both are OK - but I know which I prefer in the long term and there's no point discussing the finer points of whether McD's use too much ketchup or dill pickle. It's subjective - but we all know their nosh comes with well defined limitations and trade-offs. And lots of salt... I work professionally with audio and deliver demanding and complex sound dub mixes for a living, using a custom Genelec monitoring system and I used to write a monthly column in Car HiFi Magazine. Unfortunately, I no longer have time to build my own systems, or I'd just be doing this myself. While a Canton "upgrade" will suffice for many with less educated ears, it won't satisfy those who have invested in decent HiFi systems and have tasted the forbidden fruit of decent sound reproduction. There - I said it. TLDR - if your idea of good sound quality is based on Sonos or Bose home audio, you might be OK with the Canton. If your ears are used to Naim, Linn, Arcam, Shahinian, PMC, Genelec etc, skip the Canton - and buy an aftermarket system. Hopefully I haven't offended too many people Ben.