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Mine that was ordered on 5 February has finally arrived. It was built in March but since then has been waiting for a part. I took delivery of it yesterday....Hooray!

I prefer the chart from the rosstech thread I posted although it basically says the same thing with G12 evo added: What your car has is along the top axis, what you're adding is along the left axis. For a car with G11 originally, look down the left hand column: - G11 is factory - G12 is not compatible - G12+, G12++, G13, G12evo are all mixable with G11 and will protect as well or better In my case, I'd look down the 5th column: - G13 is factory - G11, G12, G12+ are not recommended due to reduced protection - G12++ and G12evo are both mixable with G13 and will protect as well or better

Dipped beams are focussed to avoid dazzling. It’s a requirement of Lighting regs and the MOT.

You can single press for Skoda voice assistant and long press for Android voice assistant - just in case anyone hadn't stumbled across this.

I will send it to @pab567 as soon he is sending me a reply to my pm.

22.5 that's heating not cooling I'm on 17.5 all year round, il like to feel the air flow.

Mine only potentially dazzle but they can also transmit light through the slow moving car in front that I am following closely and potentially dazzle oncoming motorists. I never used to drive at night but now I go out and travel a long way to find slow moving traffic in urban areas and single track roads in order to petentially dazzle any oncoming cars with my dipped beam headlights, I gain much pleasure from this new activity.

Hi Guys, The shocking truth is that the wording in this email hasn't changed or gained sincerity since I was receiving them earlier in the year. Surely it is well past time Skoda got honest with their clientele, their persistence in denial belittles them and the personnel representing them or do they actually think we believe them? So pleased I got all my money back, now driving a Kuga with similar features but these all work fine with fault.

Its highly unlikely leads go faulty in such a short time/mileage scale. Genuine Skoda replacement have a 2 year warranty. Many aftermarket have the same or longer warranty. Who is diagnosing the faulty leads, how and what are the symptoms? Presumably its a cbzb engine 1.2tsi 105ps. Plugs need changing at 40,000 miles with iridium fine tip (NGK if you have leads with 9k resistance or Bosch if the leads are copper core or low resistance). Two types of leads are available, the original style are unsheathed and have a resistance of 9k ohms. Later ones have corrugated trunking protecting them (called marten protection) these are better are protecting the leads from heat damage from the exhaust/turbo. You should make sure leads are clipped away from the heat shield. Coils can and do break down, usually when the leads go open circuit or your plugs are too worn out. Unprotected style no.3 lead is the usual lead to fail, as it rests on the heat shield. My guess is someone incorrectly thinks leads are faulty because they don't buzz out with a continuity tester. Or perhaps some incorrect cheap non fine tip plugs are fitted. Or something else is causing misfires or rough running, unrelated to ignition.

A few from last night. Was fortunate enough to be looking right at the Heron when it caught a fish!

Common to happen with a low battery. Even though your battery might seem OK there might be an issue heat related to that or the ECU or connections / earths. Hopefully a member with knowledge will be along to assist. Electricity is all black magic to me.

I think they have a 2014 petrol vRS looking at their old posts. My FL 2018 vRS is loosing coolant so it's not just the pre-FL... it drops from max to min in about 3-4k so it's going in for investigation next week under warranty, the dealer mentioned they had coolant pumps in stock without prompting so it must be pretty common TPI 2049121/3 covers coolant loss and a few of the production changes they've made: • Optimizing filling process of coolant in CW 12/2015. • Measure to ensure tightness of coolant regulator housing, introduced in CW 27/2019. • Measure to ensure tightness of coolant pump, introduced in CW 23/2020. Not that the TPI gives much clue as to exactly where the pump is: This might help though:

I don't agree with Golfmk56's assessment of this forum (unless they have led a sheltered life): compared to many forums I've encountered, this is mostly respectful and knowledgeable, although the answers so far to the OP's Q do indeed miss many obvious things such as MY and what the OP thinks they actually ordered The advice given by Golfmk56 though is one I've also expanded on in both this and other forums: you absolutely cannot rely on a brochure and/or price list - indeed they have weasel words which more or less say "this brochure might be incorrect, your dealer is the definitive source of info" (wishful thinking, I know....) So when ordering a new car, I always - politely - ask the dealer if the car I'm ordering differs in spec from the brochure, and if so, how, given that my contract is with the dealer, nothing to do with Skoda UK. I then politely remind the dealer that if the spec differs from what we both believe is ordered, my consumer rights allow me various options (including rejection) depending on the discrepancy. So.... always, always, download and keep the brochure/price list current at the time of the order, and ensure that you have solid evidence of your 'discussion' with the dealer ref the spec. And then keep in touch with the dealer as the order proceeds, no harm in asking again if the spec has changed and remind them that it's the dealer's responsibility to tell the customer of any changes (not that they would - this level of good customer service would result in their franchise removed and a few of the staff publicly executed as an example to others)

I have two modes: a) When there is no traffic nearby and the road is wide: foot flat on the floor b) When in traffic, since I do not trust the ACC to pull me up in time, or the Lane Assist or Autonomous Emergency Braking from doing something stupid: foot hovering over the pedals, ready to take action.

Not Cat flaps. The flaps are in the heating / fresh air system. Closed when in reverse so you do not get fumes and in your case a different noise. Listen to the car from outside with someone driving forward then reversing.

No... It will need to be removed and gutted of its internals and then mapped out.

The rust needs to be removed from where the brake pads should touch the disks. Especially the inside face as this is normally worse than the outer face. As I said before, you can see the rust on the outside in the video in post 2. When metal disks gets rusty they expand and cause the rubbing sound. Thanks, AG Falco

Broken spring, breaking up wheel bearing or CV joint, issue with gearbox...

The top image is how I received my car back from Border Skoda in Dumfries when they eventually updated my infotainment software, seemingly I have a Bentley..lol

Yes it’s something I coded for the person who wanted my Superb (but then messed me about and didn’t view it): Disable KESSY door locking / unlocking 05: Acc/Start Auth. Coding Byte1 Tick Bit0 Passive entry driver door handle, not activated Passive entry frt.pass door handle,not activated

From what I’ve seen - if rear view camera is important to you then I think it’s part of standard spec on Sportline. Infotainment system is slightly upgraded too (larger screen). When it comes to resale value I always assume (perhaps wrongly) that optional extras are essentially ignored by pricing engines and therefore the more you get in the base spec of the car the more likely you are to have the value of those items picked up in future valuations. Am open to hearing counter viewpoints of course!

Based on some early tests by drivers reporting to 'EV What can it tow', it is best to assume range will be halved, but may be not quite as bad as that. If people load their caravans over the maximum specified on the loading plate, they are of course breaking the law and creating significant risk to them and others. I keep a spreadsheet of everything I load into the caravan with each weighed. Sometimes I have to choose what to take and what not so as not to exceed the max permitted loading. EV's on the whole make good tow vehicles because they are often heavier than their diesel/petrol counterparts and all the torque is delivered when you need it most for towing. Range of course could be an issue for some. Nice point about the EV6 is you don\t need hook-ip either on the site as the car can provide it via it's 240v output adapter. So long as you are not plugging a kettle in every morning of course and still use gas for heating.

If you display favourites on the radio screen all the selected icons appear. Tap on your choice, then centre left on the screen is a small vertical white bar. Tap it and the full screen will appear. Let me know if this works for you. Perhaps there should be a thread entitled 'things I've discovered on the Octy Mk 4 infotainment screen'!

The Norwegian configurater is with Sportline 80x. There it is at 1200 kg towing figure.

@TMitchell You say 'One previous owner'. Try to get the gen on that and was the One Previous Registered Keeper was a Company or an individual or family and if their surname was not HERTZ or Eurocar. Full Service History is good if there are Invoices and Receipts or Print Outs of actual work carried out and not just a History of stuff not carried out. You really want to know the Haldex Servicing has been done at 30,000 mile intervals or sooner. Even then you might want it done correctly if you get the car, so oil and filter / clean out getting done.

Hi guys, many thanks for the responses! It’s the 2.0 diesel, the 148bhp version. I’m starting the road trip tomorrow to look over the car and it’s history.

There is actually, blue or white icon. There is no indicator for "partially full" (when its on full but dips just a small portion of the beam)

What a doofus! My first post and already made a mistake. I wasn’t sure if there was perhaps, like most forums (eg on BMW forums it’s Cotswold BMW) who do a huge trade on the forum and also good prices. If not though, I’ll nip in and pay £65!

Hi tintinandcharlie My 2WD Yeti (9 years old, 60000 miles) has always shown remarkably even tyre wear across the width of the treads, both front and rear. It has never been realigned since it left the factory. So I would say no, it isn't to be expected and a 4 wheel laser check by someone who knows what they are doing would be a good idea. Of course, if you regularly take roundabouts in an enthusiastic manner you may still get a bit of outer shoulder wear on the nearside front and rear.

That's fab thank you lots!

I guess that is so but if you are lucky enough to have the heads-up display they appear there. The heads-up display is one of the single greatest features of my car, with the speed, the sat-nav direction and distance, the cruise-control settings and speed, the distance to car in front, the lane indications and (in some markets but not mine) the speed limit.. I do not really need to look at the dash or infotainment screen at all.

Autowatch Ghost

I am not going down the route of changing tyres twice a year. FAFF is putting it mildy. I don't have a second set of wheels and will not entertain that option. I am very fussy about how my tyres are changed having observed over the years cars bring damaged when jacking incorrectly, air tools used incorrectly/inappropriately damaging wheel bolts/keys, overtightening, crossthreading, fitters gouging alloys when removing stuck on balance weights etc etc. Fitting and removing the same tyre on a rim many times is surely not good for the tyre and possibly the rim. I always remove/refit wheels myself, clean and prepare them carefully and take them to somewhere I can observe them changing and balancing the tyre. Can only take one sometimes two wheels in one trip to the tyre fitter so 2 or 4 trips. Some larger places will now not fit tyres that they don't supply. Lots of hassle, but I use the opportunity to examine/clean the brakes/suspension while the wheel is off. Decision to go ahead or not will be next Monday or Tuesday. Thanks for the comments so far.

Probably better to start another thread on this, but if they want it they will get it. There is not a single thing you could do to the car that they could not get you to undo at knife/gun/crowbar/machete point at 3am in your house. If they break in looking for keys they are fully aware they might meet the owner and generally come prepared for that eventuality. My place is more secure than most, they would not get in quietly and between dogs and shotguns I would give them a run for their money but you have to ask yourself how much a replicable car is worth in injury and agro. Ghost with transmission lock (if you have a DSG) is probably the one that would fool them best (if fitted well) , A tracker that is dormant until activated is another good one, but if you see the way they are driven ........... would you want it back?

Thanks for the reply Varaderoguy, I've picked up some mats from Horton and some badges from Kopacek.

At a guess, it's 5J7 868 522 which is part 14 here:

Thanks @Brockysuperb That indeed will be my next step! I have a Zappi charger incoming shortly so hopefully that would be it. I looked at the podpoint but as I am considering installing solar panels in the near future, the Zappi / myenergi solution was better Integrated Thanks

Not in the UK, you can't. That used to be an option available but only on the base SE with 17" wheels. It disappeared off the options list 3 or 4 years ago along with the rough road package.

Same on my temporary car Ford Fiesta. Pretty normal.

+1 Mine have a couple of spots which are obviously from genuine chips but I also have one wheel where it seems to have started from around the plastic Skoda cap and worked outwards.

I think he has been in court even more than this as he was in Worcester court as well as Ludlow and Telford. It is not an easy job. As one cop who stopped me on the bike he said we can travel at the speed of light as we have radio.

Finally picked up today… nice drive from Leeds to Leicester… then back in time to get the kids from School. Lovely car, very happy so far.

The road from South Wales back to Midlands, A49 and M50 is both beautiful and quick from Ross to Tewkesbury. I have this friend of mine who had a mk 2 petrol vrs and he saw 150 in the Speedo on that streach. Always take it easier on the A40 as lots of cops same as A44 and A5. If your a cop and get caught doing over 150 you can get let off as your testing the car as one did on the A5.

Ethel, What was the engine code of your Octavia? Did you try Skoda? Or did you go straight to an independant? I am ony asking because I contacted Skoda parts so far - and waiting for the repairshop to call back - and Skoda's reply was that there is no repair kit, i.e. replacement actuator for the CR 170 CFGB engine, which uses the Honeywell / Garrett turbo. There is an official Skoda kit for the Borgwarner on the CR 140 engine. There are however actuators for the CR170 from "independant" manufacturers. Skoda parts suggested they would prop a complete new turbo for a couple og grand in.

Or Schumacher vs Hill? Great driver though he was I could never respect Schumacher for the number of times his driving was "questionable"? I hope Verstappen isn't going to behave the same way when under pressure as that for me will be a waste of his undoubted talent.

I picked this up last Friday, got the rear windows tinted yesterday, fitted mudflaps and gave it a wash and first coat of sealant/wax today.

In that case, axle stands and a compact trolley jack would be your best bet. Ramps, while they are less of a faff to work with, do still take up a little room. These are the ones with the jack up section: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284077417887?hash=item422455659f:g:4HgAAOSwbs9frPuo