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One of the more recent ones, took a while to actually find a reasonable bulb that wasn't stupidly bright

Hi All, Thanks for your help with some questions I asked over the weekend. Test drove the Enyaq 80 today, really like it so we placed an order. Pretty much ticked every option box. Now the wait , around 3 -4 months but we will see. The spec is: 80x sportline - racing blue 21" wheels All the plus packs (lights, comfort, drive, parking, etc) Sunroof Retractable towbar (read here about issue with bike racks) Came out at 56k Obviously you will never get the money back on all the packs but wanted to order something I will really like. We are part exchanging my wife's Kodiaq as they offered us a great deal on it

UPDATE after 1 year of driving my Super IV L&K 2020: (Plug-in) I've done 7000 miles in total in 13 months, most of which has been during lockdown for covid-19. About 3000 miles have been all electric, the rest being in hybrid mode, with about 100 miles in sport mode just as a test. In my opinion: 1. If you do not have a home charging capability then a Plug-in Hybrid is a waste of money since you have to pay at least an extra £4000 for a battery that hardly gets used - I only have a fixed 13amp outside connection not a £700 fully featured home charging system - it takes far too long to charge (0% to 100% takes over 5 hours, this is equivalent to only 7 miles per hour of charging) - which is OK some of the time, but is useless for long trips - if travelling more than 40 miles round trip I have to use petrol which is not good - using a public charge point its a bit quicker being about 4 hours to get fully charged (7kw or quicker, about 8 miles per hour) - the car is designed to be seriously restricted to a very slow speed regardless of how fast the charge point can work, which is a MAJOR drawback 2. The cost of charging at a public charge point is so variable as to be totally stupid - it can be FREE at some supermarkets or up to 25p per mile - the 25p per mile chargers can charge at a rate of over 600 miles per hour, which is useless for the Superb which cannot benefit from the speed but still costs the same - running on petrol only cost about 11p a mile (about 48 mpg on average) - there are FREE 7kw chargers at places like Tesco and Sainsbury, these will add about 7 miles of range in an hour, which is fine if you can do your shopping and have a meal in a cafe, otherwise it's not much use. - FREE charges are also very difficult to find when touring the country on holiday, so not really that helpful, and the range added is not worth the time wasted. 3. The average range is too little to be of any real value in terms of reducing cost - I've averaged about 25 miles on a full charge, varying from 18 to 42 miles. 4. The Skoda app for controlling the charging remote is helpful for the 1st year being FREE, but is not worth the £80 for each year thereafter since the advertised map and software updates are not possible online and my car does not have a memory card reader, or CD unit to do it any other way. 5. My best all electric journey was 42 miles on full charge with a bit being added by the regen system. This was done in eco mode on a non-stop drive on a dual carriageway, at a speed of about 45 mph, in 6th gear, with virtually no acceleration, on a warm day with no wind, with no heating or cooling to use power. - a more normal scenario around home is an average of about 25 miles, being with heating / cooling, stop start etc. 6. Driving in SPORT mode to charge the battery is a waste of fuel and creates more pollution than it saves. - it better to drive in the driver selected "individual mode", and selecting some but not all of the sport features that stop the car using too much fuel and pollution 7. It's a real pain taking the time to plug in the cable in a public place in bad weather since virtually NONE of the locations are covered - simply not worth the bother for a view miles of electric range - in addition most of the FREE charging points are a long way from the door of the place that you want to go to - plus there are virtually no signs to direct you to where the points are in the car park, so you have to drive around just looking - many locations are either already in use (for many hours), or are being used by NON-Electric cars (people that can't read maybe - or you waste 30 mins or so trying the get these things to work using one of dozens of different supplier apps - or the thing are just faulty 8. Skoda are useless at diagnosing any faults on IV cars, including none IV related features such as map updates / serious SAT NAV issues 9. The setup of all the options in the car are far too complicated 10. The benefits of driving an electric car are lost because of the very limited range and very long charging times 11. Effectively it has been an expensive trial with really an otherwise great car. 12. I have been looking for an all electric car this year but decided that the cost for anything decent (same size as superb) is still far too high - in part because the silly government decided to cut the grant this year, and will no doubt cut in again next year. 13. The lost luggage space and extra weight make the car less usable, which is common for all plug-in hybrids. 14. my best trip was where I managed 40 miles all electric PLUS another 8 miles from regen over a trip of about 100 miles. Suggestions based on my experience: 1. Plug-in hybrids could be far better if the car makers supplied faster charging, and at least 80 miles of range (which would qualify for a grant) 2. Skoda need to get their act together to properly support IV drivers 3. Voice command needs a massive improvement - the current system is next to useless 4. The skoda SAT NAV system needs a re-think to be more like Tesla, and it MUST have monthly updates for maps including all new charge points 5. The Skoda connect app should be included for free for at least 3 years 6. The skoda app needs to be made more functional and be made reliable (currently fails too often) 7. Skoda needs to get the problems with basic SAT NAV functions sorted, now - I've had faults logged for over 6 months, with no fixes, or any date for a fix. 8. Skoda should never tell its customers to rely on non-Skoda apps to make up for Skoda failures on a car that costs over £41,000 (ZapMap) Hope this is helpful

If it is s start/stop vehicle then disconnect the shut resistor wire from the battery negative lead (I think its the negative one) and leave it off, the alternator will then revert to the default normal charging regime and your battery will last a lot longer. You will lose the stop/start facility by doing so.

Right, so another €42.50 spent on paint and supplies. Totals now €97.50. After an hour or two of sanding, this wheel was ready for primer. I sanded the filler down with 80 grit until it was almost even with the rest of the rim, then went with 240 grit, 320 grit, 500 grit and finished with 600 grit. Blew off the massive amounts of dust with an air compressor and then wiped them down. After 3 coats of Upol etch primer it came out like this. I bought filler primer just in case, looks like this wheel wont need it. These two however.... Well I have my work cut out if these are going to come out halfway decent. I used WAY too much filler but its nothing that a few sheets of 80 grit and a few hours won't sort.

Welcome. ? Which country are you driving in? Skoda were not thinking about ugly, more about the law in various countries & other road users and angry road users. Like when someone has Daytime / Daylight lights on with Side / Position and Dipped Headlights, or with Fog's on when there is no fog, or Fogs on with Side / Position Lights & DRL's and Dipped Beam or even Full Beam is someone manages to have Fogs and full beam on.

The timing chain has jumped, it's very common and it sounds like the valves are bent so you have no compression. Sorry.

I've been reviewing pics from our trip to the Western USA in 2019, this afternoon. I could do with getting out of the car into the desert blast furnace heat again, sometime soon.

All cars have a unique 17 character identity code – their Vehicle Identification Number or VIN. For Karoqs this is displayed at the bottom lefthand corner of the windscreen, on a sticker at the base of the middle body pillar, and stamped into the righthand suspension turret under the bonnet. It takes the form: TMB LJ7 NU 7J5 012345 and can be decoded as follows: The first 3 characters are TMB for Škoda cars. The 4th character tells you the chassis type: J = left-hand drive FWD, K = right-hand drive FWD, L = left-hand drive 4x4 and M = right-hand drive 4x4. The 5th character tells you the engine: E = 2.0 TSI 190PS, G = 1.6 TDI 115PS, J = 2.0 TDI 150PS, M = 2.0 TDI 190 PS, P = 1.0 TSI 115PS, R = 1.5 TSI 150PS. (Anyone know the code for the 2.0 TDI 115PS engine or Russian 1.6 MPI engines?) The 6th character tells you how many airbags the car has: 2 = 2 front airbags, 4 = 2 front and 2 side airbags, 5 = 2 fronts + 2 sides + 1 knee airbag, 6 = 2 front airbags + 2 sides + 2 heads, 7 = 2 front airbags + 2 sides + 2 heads + 1 knee airbag, 8 = 2 front airbags + 4 sides + 2 heads, 9 = 2 front bags + 4 sides + 2 heads + 1 knee airbag. The 7th and 8th character tell you the vehicle model: NU = the Karoq (2017 on). The 9th character is a check digit to validate the code. The 10th character tells you the car's model year: J = MY2018 (ie manufactured between summer 2017 and summer 2018, K = MY2019 (ie manufactured between summer 2018 and summer 2019, L = MY2020 (ie manufactured between summer 2019 and summer 2020, M = MY2021 (ie manufactured between summer 2020 and summer 2021. The 11th character tells you where your car was built: 0 to 4 = Mladá Boleslav, Czechia; 5 = Kvasiny, Czechia; 7 or 8 = Vrchlabi, Czechia; B = Solomonovo, Ukraine; H = Nizhny Novgorod, Russia; J = Osnabruck, Germany; K = Kaluga, Russia; N = Mladá Boleslav, Czechia. Then finally the 12th to 17th numbers are the unique production number for that production line and year. If anyone has a character in their VIN not listed above, please give me the details so I can update this guide. Thanks Chris

I thought I'd borrow the title of this thread from the Superb forum which seems to work quite well. Feel free to add anything you have done to your Karoq underneath this post. To kick off the thread, yesterday I fitted OEM door sill protectors & mud flaps to my wife's 19 plate Karoq, which we acquired last week. All parts purchased from Skoda Parts Ireland. https://www.skodapartsireland.ie/ 17.5 Euros delivery to UK. The mud flaps were good value at 17.40 Euros per pair (incl vat). The cill protectors were a bit pricey at 104.00 Euros (incl vat) but I wanted OEM quality & not some cheap flimsy wafer thin transfers from a dubious supplier. I've been down that route before with a boot sill protector for my Superb which I had to replace with an OEM one after 4 months. Buy cheap - pay twice! All good & I managed to fit the mud flaps without removing any wheels by using a right angled drill adaptor with appropriate torx bits & a flexi shaft drill bit drive for drilling the extra holes. I also fitted a pair of front Bosch Aero wipers (£19 on Amazon) to cure the noisy OEM ones. I may replace the rear wiper or just live with it for a while. So far (1 week in) we are loving the Karoq - apart from the slow / DSG hesitation take up from a standing start. I might look at a DSG / engine remap next year when the warranty runs out. I did this (engine remap) on my Superb 280 & it transformed what was already a quick car into a bit of a hooligan & sharpened up the throttle response. I'm not looking for that level of performance out of the Karoq but a bit more urgency via the DSG & 4x4 from standstill would be appreciated. I suspect the software fix for the jerky engine issue associated with the 1.5 engines is responsible. Once on the move it runs fine although when I drive it I do miss the low down torque & instant response that my Superb has. I do wonder whether we should have stretched the budget a bit more & found a 2.0TSI model instead of the 1.5. Hey ho, can't change that now & TBH the 1.5 is more than adequate for what my wife needs.

Recently covered 200 mile journey with two adults and a gearbox in the boot and aircon for half the journey- achieved 57.4mpg without trying - is this good or normal for this car?

Your new battery may not be the corect type and/or the battery management controller has not been recoded for its parameters. I think the battery management system, regenerative charging on over-run, only 75% charging etc remains active even if start:stop is switched off, it definitely reverts to a proper charging regime if the shunt resistor is disconnected. I had guessed from what you said before that the battery had been changed and thats when your problems started.

Obviously she is going to pay for the repair........................................... That is not something that would be obvious to me. I would pull the top of the door into alignment while she was not looking, tell her she must have better eyes than me if she can see a small dent that I cannot. If she can see it and she remarks about it when she does meaning it is causing her anguish, then I would quietly and discreetly have it repaired & say nothing about it, if she cant see it but you can and it bugs you then do exactly the same thing.

12.0V is too low. I never jump start or use a battery booster as these methods put too much current through the battery, which will reduce its life. A gentle charge such as 4 Amps is much kinder to the battery. Many new stop-start cars are being fitted with a cheaper EFB battery rather than the much better and longer lasting AGM battery. If you still have the original EFB battery, simply replace with a new AGM battery from one of the best brands such as Varta.

What is the battery voltage when the engine is idling? Should be at least 13.8V You can measure from the cigarette lighter socket with an "LED/LCD cigarette lighter voltmeter" You can also disconnect the negative terminal and fully charge the battery. Leave it overnight with the negative terminal still disconnected, and then check the voltage. If you measure the battery directly (which you would have to do if the negative terminal is disconnected) the battery voltage should be at least 12.2V after being left overnight. Make sure you use a good fully automatic battery charger such as this Bosch 12V C1 018999901M (as having a battery charger that keeps charging after the battery is full will ruin the battery): https://www.amazon.de/Bosch-189-999-01M-Batterieladegerät/dp/B00RP3DEW6/ref=sr_1_16?__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&dchild=1&keywords=bosch+battery+charger+12v&qid=1633381897&sr=8-16 There are other good makes, but this Bosch is very simple to use. This Bosch can charge any 12V car battery including AGM and other stop-start batteries.

Yes....it's happening quite a lot. The AGM/EFM batteries are all dying due to age and lack of use because of COVID-19. The Skoda/VAG Batteries are also less than great too. You'll need to put in a new battery and update the serial number via VCDS or ODBELEVEN by one to allow the battery to start working again.

On my first lesson I drove along the A316 from the end of the M3 going London bound. This was a NSL three lane road but with no hard shoulder, so almost. Thanks, AG Falco

Not that difficult, give it half the extra PS / Nm you gave your Superb and it too will be able to rip up loose tarmac.

Thank you

Spray a bit of wd40 around the exhaust hanger and slide a screwdriver in and prise it off the rubber. Can be stiff but should come out. As for exhaust sound ok but shop around but you should be able to get aftermarket std fit pipes. Or look around for a secondhand Miltek or something similar.

Thank you! Yes indeed, I also think that this color is one of the best for the Fabia.

I found this on another forum, could your yeti have had a tracker fitted? https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/alarm-sound-after-starting-the-car-interior-video-included.8957185/

True, but since the OP explicitly asks about a 125/80R18 spare, I don't know what point you think you're making unless it's "flybynite failed reading comprehension".

One of the items on the agenda for the trip to the Western USA was to go back to Speed Week at Bonneville Salt Flats.

Here are the pictures of my Fabia :

Perhaps it is engine depending. In my 190 tdi 4x4 it can be scary at big throttle input in sport mode from standstill!!

Sounds like a great idea. If people are in an accident they can take the picture of the other driver and vice versa. No use for the insurer if there are identical twins in the family and only one is a named driver. A delivery driver @ Edinburgh Airport taking a car from the Auction to the Transporter that crashed into me did not know his name or nationality and had to call someone that was the supervisor to give me false information. They were not happy at me taking their photos. Pity the Insurance Company they were with was the one that owned my insurer. They were stuffed when via facebook pics and my pics i showed them the person driving the car was not the one that was said to be in the accident. So it was no longer knock for knock, or my fault, it was settled quickly at no loss to me.

I found that you could still access some archived threads on that site. I have broken a record, 2 hours sitting on an uncomfortable solid wood dining chair at the kitchen table laughing myself to pieces at the computer! It was worth it! And no, I dont do Fessbook!

They may have started life as 4x4, I wonder how many still are after inadequate Haldex servicing 😯

we have the 1.4TSi in a manual Kodaiq and it's fine. I did have similar concerns previously coming from a mapped TDi 4x4 Octavia but the little 1.4 copes admirably. Sure it's not a pocket rocket but can be fair hustled when needed and has had no issues heading up and over the Pennines with a full boot and passengers.

Took our 1.4TSI to France going down to the Med and back, never felt under-powered even when fully laden (with wine!) climbing onto the Massif Central.

It's getting better, my local petrol station has fuel again and all the old duffers who rushed out and bought it all have their cars sitting on their driveways with full tanks now. They're busy buying all the bog rolls and dried pasta now 😄

Ok thanks. Sportline has DCC also. I thought those stock wheels looked too flush without spacers. thanks.

Here's a bargain car thats vastly better in every way: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2004-Skoda-Fabia-1-9-TDI-PD-Elegance-5dr-AC-MOT-06-10-2021-HUGE-SERVICE-HIST-/133883489966?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Most modern engines are interference engines because they have high compression ratios and high peak valve lift, particularly if naturally aspirated, conversely some forced induction engines are not because they are low compression and have conservative peak valve lift. It does sound like the engine is not worth repairing I'm afraid, just go and buy another cheap Fabia but avoid the three cylinder engines, you've already got a donor vehicle if you need any parts off it.

am not sure what an OTA update is??. I did finally get my 'Skoda' SD card to upload successfully. The download from the portal via my laptop took about 6 hours just for the simple European update. The key thing is when you 'unzip' the file you end up with it in a 'folder' and you need to take the files out of the folder before you tranfer them across from your laptop download to your Skoda SD Card. I hope that helps. The lack of support from Skoda and their agents (in my case Bristol Street Motors) for this defies belief - it wouldnt be acceptable in any other branch of commerce - not sure if other car suppliers are any better or not mind ?? Cheers

Moonlit riverside 6k just completed in over 34mins. Given the sun hasnt even gotten near the horizon it is chilly these mornings. but that doesnt slow me down, i think thats just my own brain not wanting to strain anything or do my knee, which did say hello after 5k. tad annoying...

Better still, also have a friendly Briskodian (is that the correct term,) read the error codes, as searching will give you several possibilities, many of which will not be the cause, and the error codes should at least point you in the right direction.

Not only Škoda designers, 50's and 60's were golden era of Czech industrial design - Škoda 1000MB, Tatra 603, Škoda 47E, Karosa Š series, Tatra 805 expedition spec were nice machines from various branches of industry. But in 70's and especially 80's, design became unnecessary luxury, so everything was replaced by bland boxes..

On my wifes Scala we bought that option. It works perfectly. It is a very good integrated with the lane assist. If blind spot detect a car even if you put your signal to change lane the steering wheel will not allow you to move to the other lane. It could be annoying sometimes because I see that I have space to go to the other lane but for my wife which is unsure about the room that she have from the other car is perfect. This is really nice that they made them to work together. On of the best options that we bought.

I had it before on a 172 Octavia, it was let down by the manual handbrake but once out of town it was fantastic.

Fleece for AGM, change the serial number and the Amps to suit your new battery. Job done👍

Just take note, you're limited to 50mph/80kph with that wheel and tyre mounted.

There is the more excessive drifting or pulling left as is common with Mk2 Fabia. So there are threads down this page or the last on pulling left, and also drivers of left hand drive cars with pulling right issues. There are members there that have resolved the issues that caused their problem. Just search briskoda fabia mk2 pulling left. To see if more extreme than it should be go to a flat car park and try letting the car drive straight without steering imput, that takes the camber of a UK road out of the equation. You just have a 'handed' car then.

Looking out of the harbour at Whitehaven as a storm starts to roll in.

Probably something like this: 20200910_155143.mp4

Updated for MY22 cars. All cars have a unique 17 character identity code – their Vehicle Identification Number or VIN. For Karoqs this is displayed at the bottom lefthand corner of the windscreen, on a sticker at the base of the middle body pillar, and stamped into the righthand suspension turret under the bonnet. It takes the form: TMB LJ7 NU 7J5 012345 and can be decoded as follows: The first 3 characters are TMB for Škoda cars. The 4th character tells you the chassis type: J = left-hand drive FWD, K = right-hand drive FWD, L = left-hand drive 4x4 and M = right-hand drive 4x4. The 5th character tells you the engine: E = 2.0 TSI 190PS, G = 1.6 TDI 115PS, J = 2.0 TDI 150PS, M = 2.0 TDI 190 PS, P = 1.0 TSI 115PS, R = 1.5 TSI 150PS. (Anyone know the code for the 2.0 TDI 115PS engine or Russian 1.6 MPI engines?) The 6th character tells you how many airbags the car has: 2 = 2 front airbags, 4 = 2 front and 2 side airbags, 5 = 2 fronts + 2 sides + 1 knee airbag, 6 = 2 front airbags + 2 sides + 2 heads, 7 = 2 front airbags + 2 sides + 2 heads + 1 knee airbag, 8 = 2 front airbags + 4 sides + 2 heads, 9 = 2 front bags + 4 sides + 2 heads + 1 knee airbag. The 7th and 8th character tell you the vehicle model: NU = the Karoq (2017 on). The 9th character is a check digit to validate the code. The 10th character tells you the car's model year: J = MY2018 (ie manufactured between summer 2017 and summer 2018), K = MY2019 (ie manufactured between summer 2018 and summer 2019), L = MY2020 (ie manufactured between summer 2019 and summer 2020), M = MY2021 (ie manufactured between summer 2020 and summer 2021), N = MY2022 (ie manufactured between summer 2021 and summer 2022). The 11th character tells you where your car was built: 0 to 4 = Mladá Boleslav, Czechia; 5 = Kvasiny, Czechia; 7 or 8 = Vrchlabi, Czechia; B = Solomonovo, Ukraine; H = Nizhny Novgorod, Russia; J = Osnabruck, Germany; K = Kaluga, Russia; N = Mladá Boleslav, Czechia. Then finally the 12th to 17th numbers are the unique production number for that production line and year. If anyone has a character in their VIN not listed above, please give me the details so I can update this guide. Thanks Chris

@nori you have Amundsen MIB2 MY16, non-DAB. You can use any of screens you mentioned (3V0919606, 3V0919605D), they are P&P, just note in case of 3V0919605D you will get a little space between the display and the trims. @SimmoWhale you can you 5E0919606, 5E0919605M (with NAV button), 5E0919605N (without NAV button). Apple CarPlay is NOT screen-dependent, it depends on the glove box unit - yours supports it as long as SmartLink is activated.

nozzle blocked is the likely cause.

not seen them clocks in a Fabia https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ac4yI96oqZ0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lqgHBBpiL8Y